Routes in Piemonte

Nice training crag for trad climbing.

One of the grand classics of Valle dell'Orco.

1. (5b, 25m) The start of the route is marked by the "knife blade". A tricky start leads to fist jamming and laybacking up to the ledge. Walk 5m to the base of the dihedral and the anchor.

2. (4b, 30m)

3. (5a, 25m)

4. (5a, 25m) Now you reach the grassy halfway ledge. Follow the obvious trail, initially to the left, then to the right following the cliff (~80m)

5. (4c, 40m)

6. (5c, 50m)

7. (6a, 35m)

8. (4b, 25m)

Descent: Abseil (x2) from the top to the anchor for Jedi Master, then to the midway ledge.

The difficulties at the initial rooflet can be solved a few ways... typically the more comfortable you are with getting in the crack/chimney, the easier it will go!

fessure, presone e fessure

Due catene, una catena a 22mt e una catena a 22+9 mt

Via fisica a ottime prese.

Diedro e placca, continuità su buone prese

Classic granite

35+10m (16 spit per i primi 35m)

It might be mire difficult because it seems that a small hold has blown off at the start

Movimenti tecnici di dita

5a iniziale, ma con sorpresa dopo il ribaltamento

The path ascends via some steps cut into stone, then a staircase. 'Lo sceriffo di Cada' starts at the top of these stairs.

Arrampicata di piedi su placca delicata

Balance line

Ribaltamento e placca a grosse prese

Muro verticale e continuità in placca

Partenza complicata

Gear

A full set of Friends from 0.4 - 6 BD. Two #5 and #6 recommended.

Via fisica, supera un tetto con grosse prese

Arête, then chimney.

CC = Chiodatura Cuccioli