Ascents in Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino

Amazing hike - great views, challenging sections, interesting historical setting with tunnels and other remains from the first world war

Great views! Worth the small detour

Nice view from the top

Had a crack at this ultimate classic climb.

We have decided to name a new variant:

"Don(key)" (V+ max, 450m)

simply get lost a few times, clip the wrong anchors, arrive at the halfway ledge too late, then abseil down the 1st half of the route, thus spending almost as much time on the wall is if you were to do the entire climb.

Hasta la vista, baby

Alternating lead/second

swinging leads (800m, 7b+, Marmelade south face)

Two days. Climbed until the main bivy after the hard part and did the rest of the route on sunday.

Extremely hard and sustaining climbing, The 3rd to last pitch (where you could downclimb) is extremly hard if climbed directly (I assume 7c/+ ish) with an old piton just too far below you.

Very long day. Easy climbing but chossy and run out. Lot's of exposure.

Multipitch. Circa 27 pitches in 12 hours. Very cold and not easy to find the route because of the fog/clouds. So it took us long - too long ... ('5 minuten bis zur letzter abfahrt...'). Not as good as I had hoped. A modern bolt-protected route would have nicer, safer, more logical (yes) and just plain better climbing. The line tries to find the best climbing, but is compromised by the need to go where the pro is. Which is just not the best line. Its not granite with obvious lines, so get over it

Sehr schön

The mid part is a bit slippery

Climb in a crag, don't get stuck at the top

Moves are easily readable and satisfying to stick.

Pretty amazing laybacks and offwidth opportunities.

Take care, birds nisting on first pillar

Traumtour