Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 13th Jun 2024 - Molveno S. Antonio | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ocia & Gamba | 30m | |||||
Wet, all round cool climb.
|
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5c | Pero | 10m | |||||
Wet
|
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Wed 12th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Maso Limarò | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Placca - with Ivan | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice line, super technical and good crack finish, unlucky it was wet in the crux today.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Tavor - with Ivan | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard middle part, bit more physical exit, airy bolting. What's not to love.
|
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Sun 9th Jun 2024 - Regina del Lago | |||||||
Seconda Fascia | |||||||
6b+ A0 ~6b | ★★★ Via Fiori di Primavera - with gio, ana | 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing, easy for the grade. A0? no need! careful of large loose block, can rap off direct from top of P5 with 2 60m ropes.
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Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Sud La Fattoria degli Struzzi | |||||||
6a | ★★ Traversi Perversi - with gio, anna | 130m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Multo perversi! Great climbing, we had a brief thunderstorm while part way through, but the wall stayed mostly dry. Careful on the topout as there is lots of loose rock
|
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Spiaggia delle Lucertole | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Sentierissimo - with Gio | 28m | |||||
Unlikely
|
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7b |
Tom Tom Club
- with
Gio
1
6b
30
2
7b
30
| 60m | |||||
P1 only
|
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6b | ★★ Pat Und Patachon - with Gio | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Belissima
|
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - La Falesia Dimenticata | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Marinomania | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful pockets
|
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6c | ★★★ Pluta | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1 rest above the crux
|
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Fri 7th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud | |||||||
6b | ★★ Via Ape Maia | 200m | ★ Good | ||||
Slippery polished
|
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Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Corno di Bo | |||||||
5a | ★★ Norex - with gio | 82m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Look ma, no hands
|
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Thu 6th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Pietramurata Camerette | |||||||
6b | ★★ Nido Di Falco - with Giovanni | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Incredible route!! A lil run out in spot but great climbing, a bit of work for a 6b multi. All pitches were quality, guide book said 6 pitches but done in 4
|
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Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore B | |||||||
6b | ★★ Fra Fra - with giovanni | 20m | |||||
Fantastic route! The slab is blank as
|
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6b | ★★ Tivoli - with giovanni | 25m | |||||
Stiff crux! Core shot Gio’s rope taking a tasty whip from above the bulge
|
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Wed 5th Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore A | |||||||
6a to 6b ~6b | ★ Pesce D'aprile - with giovanni | 20m | |||||
Super polished, like a gem
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Jacopo - with giovanni | 20m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super good! Slowly getting back into it
|
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Cima alle coste Lo Scudo | |||||||
6b Easy | ★★★ Transeamus | 280m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice technical climbing, pitch 2 is the best IMHO. Be careful on pitch 5 there is a hold that's not very solid.
|
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Piramide Lakshmi | |||||||
6a | ★★ La fiaba nel bosco | 350m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I wouldn't recommend to exit early through the forest...
|
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Rovereto | |||||||
Busa dei Galai Placche | |||||||
6a Easy | ★★ Ceppo | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Some harder movements but with good rests in between. A bit soft for the grade, quite nice movements anyway.
|
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6a Hard | ★★ Non ho parole | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very cool route, the second half is quite sustained. Good holds are hidden, but they are there. Cool moves with a good undercling in the middle.
|
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Val Lomasone | |||||||
Settore 4 | |||||||
6c | Gear on ★★ Via della Sigfi | 15m | |||||
Flash with draws already in.
Might be soft.
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colodri Parete Sud Sport Roccia 86 | |||||||
6b | ★ Cupido — 3 attempts | 18m | |||||
Really nice moves, but I found it really hard for 6b.
|
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
La Gola Il Giardino | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Highway to hell — 2 attempts - with miri | 16m | |||||
ganz schön unüberlichtlich
|
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Ranzo San Vili | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Seren fato de note — 2 attempts - with Domi | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
oben raus einfach nicht mehr los lassen
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Ottava meraviglia | |||||||
7a Easy | ★★ Gorilla lilla — 2 attempts - with Tanja | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
First three bolts are the crux of the route then enjoyable climbing on jugs
|
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
L'Orto | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Verza - with Aichberger Max | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
trust your feet...
|
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6a+ | ★★ Coste - with Aichberger Max | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
upgraded in new topo. great moves on good holds
|
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6c | Barbabietole - with Aichberger Max | 12m | |||||
could not solve the crux even in tr. what's going on?
|
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord | |||||||
6 Hard | ★★ Via Helena | 230m | ★ Good | ||||
Ormai un po’ consumata
|
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Rovereto | |||||||
Besagno | |||||||
5c | ★★ Tango E Cash | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very nice and logical line but definitely harder than 5c. Caution there is some loose rock
|
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore B | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Kabul | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
Unfortunately, the route is really polished
|
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7a | ★★ Via le Man dal Cul — 3 attempts | 26m | |||||
Felt so fucking tired that day
|
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
La Gola La Casa del Piacere | |||||||
7a | ★★ Mister Monkey | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
OS aber vor 2 Jahren mal probiert.
|
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Nord | |||||||
6 | ★★ Via la piccola piramide - with Max | 380m, 25 | ★ Good | ||||
The last pitch is a bit hard if you are short 😅
|
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Nago | |||||||
Belvedere Sector A | |||||||
5a | ★ Ale'Gher | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
very flowy with a bit of balance
|
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Comano Terme | |||||||
6c | Crodo | 18m | |||||
Im Führer 6b+ aber ist schon hart
|
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Sat 11th May 2024 - La Falesia Dimenticata | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Number one - with Doreen | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
the lower part has some sharp holds. in total nice movements.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Via Per Stefano Vidi - with Doreen | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Homogen, oben dran bleiben.
|
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6c | ★★★ Pluta - with Doreen | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit polished but good holds.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Wade on the Water - with Doreen | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Im griffigen Loch am 4. bolt ist ein Vogelnest ggf. mit Eiern!
|
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Ranzo Herr Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Goditela | 17m | |||||
Mega! Leider an der Crux gestürzt
|
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6b+ | Solo apparenza | ||||||
Oben hart
|
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Pian dela Paia Il Dain | |||||||
6+ A1 |
★★ Via Angelo
- with
Doreen, Ich
1
5
2
5
3
6
lead by
Doreen, Ich
4
6+
5
6
6
5
7
6 A1
A1 Stelle mit Knieklemmer gut machbar: etwa 7+/8-
8
6 A0
A0 Stelle überklettert. Ist etwa 7/7+
9
6
luftige Querung und danach schicke Kletterei.
10
5+
Kompakter Fels (im vgl. zu vorher) und sehr schöne Kletterei
11
6
lead by
Doreen
Sehr schöne Kletterei an kompaktem Fels. | 300m, 50 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Insgesamt anspruchsvoll da teilweise der Fels brüchig ist und das Legen von mobilen Sicherungen nicht ganz einfach ist.
|
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Castel Madruzzo | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Vocheso - with Doreen | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Difficult to read on the beginning. Then nice balancy movements.
|
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Thu 9th May 2024 - La Vela | |||||||
Sector B | |||||||
6b Easy | ★★ Martin Mister | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fell once right before the roof because I was too far to the left
|
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6b ~6c | ★ Birba | 20m | Average | ||||
rested at the last bolt a few times before giving up
|
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore C | |||||||
5a Hard | ★ Marina's - with Heidi Eppensteiner | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sehr speckig
|
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Rovereto | |||||||
La Campana | |||||||
5c | ★★ Kein Problem - with con Manu | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pancia finale spaventosa
|
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Regina del Lago | |||||||
Prima Fascia | |||||||
5c |
★★★ Via Caino e Abele alt. P1
- with
Hjördis Magdalena Rösler
| 30m | |||||
confused this for the first pitch of 'Super Ciccio'
|
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Regina del Lago | |||||||
Seconda Fascia | |||||||
6a ~5c |
★★ Via Settimo Cielo
- with
Hjördis Magdalena Rösler
1
lead by
Hjördis Magdalena Rösler
2
lead by
Joshua
3
lead by
Hjördis Magdalena Rösler
4
lead by
Joshua
| 110m | ★ Good | ||||
very crowded
|
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
La Gola Il Giardino | |||||||
6b+ ~6a+ | ★★★ Unnamed | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It's easier than 6b+ but great climbing experience with crack and chimney
|
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6a ~6a | ★★ Pedro assente — 2 attempts | 14m | Average | ||||
Very slippery footholds.
|
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massi di Prabi Masso E | |||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★★★ 2 | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
way more difficult because it's so polished
|
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Val Lomasone | |||||||
Settore 3 | |||||||
5c ~7a+ | Signorina — 12 attempts - with Jhonny | 20m | |||||
A big chunck broke apparently. New topo rates 7a+
|
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Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Nago | |||||||
Belvedere Sector B | |||||||
5c | ★ Ponale - with Hjördis Magdalena Rösler | 20m | |||||
2 falls
|
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Regina del Lago | |||||||
Sector C | |||||||
6a ~6b | ★★ 3 Dicembre | 75m | |||||
Hard start
|
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
L'Orto | |||||||
6c+ Hard | Bietole - with Sophie | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Looked good from the ground but as soon a I got on it. Could not get past the second bolt. No holds available and couldn’t move my feet higher
|
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Calvario | |||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★ Smacafam - with Sophie | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A very technical climb on crimps the entire way. Foot placement, body positioning and the way you grab holds are all important. Super sequence. Did not make it to the top after many falls
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Sfiancata - with Sophie | 10m | Average | ||||
Pretty techy for an 18. Very slow moves with lots of hidden holds you gotta look for
|
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4b | ★ Popi - with Sophie | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Big jugs with good feet
|
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Placche Zebrate | |||||||
4 | ★★ Via del 46° parallelo | 170m | |||||
Keine Ahnung, was man machen muss um auf sieben Seillängen zu kommen. Mindestens einen Stand müssen wir wohl übersehen haben.
|
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Cima alle coste Lo Scudo | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Amici del Sottobosco | 280m | ★ Good | ||||
Very nice slab climbing route
|
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Nago | |||||||
Belvedere Sector B | |||||||
6a | ★ Balinot - with Sophie | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky two bolts then becomes very easy scramble to an anchor which may be difficult to clip easily for a shorter person
|
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7b+ | ★★ Last Train Home - with Sophie | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A very nice looking crack for a layback crack which slowly but very quickly turns on to some sequencey crimp pulling. Hands were very cold and had no feeling, pulled a small flapper and came down from the climb
|
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6b ~6b+ | Via Del Biscotto - with Sophie | 24m | Average | ||||
Looked like an easy climb from the ground but either I’m weak or it’s sandbagged. Sat 3 times with absolutely numb fingers and too pumped to complete the delicate body positioning moves
|
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4c | ★★ Peler - with Sophie | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very chill start with many hand holds to grab. Easy up to the top where it smooths off for a bit more techy slab
|
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore A | |||||||
5c | ★★ Lara Croft - with Sophie | 18m | Average | ||||
Quite polished rock with a somewhat tricky first two-three bolts. Crag walk in is very good being a 30sec walk from the car
|
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Pietramurata Giardino di Nato | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Sgeve D'autore — 2 attempts - with Dascha | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Im zweiten Go lief es richtig gut bis zur Schlüsselstelle und ich dachte ich hätte die Lösung..
|
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Multi-Pitch Sector | |||||||
6a+ ~6b |
★★★ Tredicesima luna
1
6a
2
6a+
3
6a
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful route but it has four pitches. All anchors connected by chain. In our guidebook the pitches were:
P1: 6a, P2: 5c, P3: 6b, P4: 6a, |
|||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore B | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Crisi — 2 attempts - with Dascha | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Im zweiten Anlauf alles richtig gemacht und zügig durch den pumpigen Abschnitt nach oben gerettet
|
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6c ~6c+ | ★★ Tis Sa Arc - with Dascha | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nach der (gutgriffigen) Verschneidung anspruchsvoll und unübersichtlich an kleinen Griffen über den Wulst.
Unterer Teil bemerkenswert speckig aber immer noch gut!
|
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - La Falesia Dimenticata | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Banana — 2 attempts - with saso | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Scharfkantige Lochkletterei. Exzellente Züge
|
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Santa Massenza Due laghi | |||||||
4 |
★★ Via Lo Spigolo Nascosto
1
3+
45m
3
3+
35m
6
4
38m
| 260m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Sud | |||||||
6a |
★ Lara
1
Follow a beautiful red dihedral with a short traverse in the roof. Make the anchor after you come out of the dihedral before before the grey vertical wall. The anchor is not obvious, so watch out not to accidentally link with pitch 2.
2
Start by going up a grey vertical wall then continue diagonally left through a small forest. Follow an obvious crack/dihedral with a tricky top. Make the anchor before an exposed traverse to the right. There are some old slings that were probably used to make anchors before, so the pitch could potentially be split up into two pitches to reduce rope drag.
3
Relatively short pitch that starts with an exposed traverse to the right that leads into a forest below a long grey dihedral (pitch 4). Build the anchor before a small wall that leads up to the dihedral.
4
Follow a nice dihedral and top out into the forest above where you can build an anchor using the trees. | 130m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice dihedral climbing, however there are many loose rocks and some of the anchor points are not so obvious. Name is scratched onto the rock at the bottom of the route.
|
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Placche Zebrate | |||||||
5c |
★★ Cane trippa
1
4c
35
3
4b
35
5
4b
30
7
4c
20
| 250m | ★ Good | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Calvario | |||||||
7a | ★★ A Bad Day with la Sciolta — 2 attempts - with saso | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
geile Tour, schöne Einzelzüge
|
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Placche di Baone Attimo Fuggente | |||||||
3c | ★★ Via C.G. | 90m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
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4a | ★ Via Paolo | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Nago | |||||||
Passo San Giovanni A | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Bochiada — 2 attempts - with Phillip Mattes | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Super Route, sehr empfehlenswert. Eher bisschen leichter als 6c+
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord | |||||||
6 | ★★ Via Helena | 230m | Average | ||||
Polished holds on the overhanging section, cams aren't really necessary IMHO
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud | |||||||
6b Easy |
★★ Via Ape Maia
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6a
5
6b
6
6a
7
5a
| 200m | Average | ||||
So polished...
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massi di Gaggiolo Sas Lorenzo | |||||||
5a | ★ Il Principe Azzurro | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
|||||||
4c | ★ Dotto | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
|||||||
4a | ★ Gongolo | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
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4b | ★★ Mammalo | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
|||||||
4c | ★★ Brontolo | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
|||||||
4b | ★★ Spigolone | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
ARCO-II course
|
|||||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Nord | |||||||
6 | ★ Le Scalette dell' Indria | 350m | Average | ||||
Discontinua, belli terzo e decimo tiro
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Piccola Dallas Piccola Dallas | |||||||
6a Hard | ★★ Kluckner Sartori | 140m, 12 | |||||
War echt unglaub!!
Sehr sehr schöne Kletterei an nem griffigen Fels mit vielen Tritten.
|
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Muro dell'Asino Passera | |||||||
6a ~6b | ★★ Faccia da Pirla - with toblino | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Polished slab, what's not to love
|
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore F | |||||||
7b | ★ Flytrap | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
A former 7a+ as far as I understand from 8a.nu.
Pretty juggy, has a couple of nice rests. That's why some still say easy probably.
In my opinion it might feel easy if powerful moves on overhangs are your forte. It doesn't really mean it is easy in fact, though.
There's plenty of holds for all and everyone to find their own beta. Gradually sucks everything out of you until you reach the pleasurable corner.
|
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Piramide Lakshmi | |||||||
6 | ★★ Il Mercurio Serpeggiante | 440m | |||||
Die 6er Seillänge ist die schönste.
Wer's ausgesetzt nicht mag ist in dieser Seillänge an der falschen Stelle.
Hat mich an Sardinien erinnert
|
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Nago | |||||||
Belvedere Sector A | |||||||
6a ~6b | ★ Dog Fish — 2 attempts | 18m | |||||
6a? Da bin ich wohl zu schwach
|
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord | |||||||
6b ~5c+ | ★★ Porci con le ali | 180m | |||||
6+ ist meine Meinung nach passender.
Die ersten 5 Meter aber sicherlich am schwierigsten von der ganzen Route.
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Massone Settore A | |||||||
5c | ★ Zac | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Memorable. Crazy polished slab.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
La Gola Il Giardino | |||||||
6b | ★★ Nova de Zecca | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Loooong
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Valle del Sarca | |||||||
Castel Madruzzo | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Claudia | 30m | |||||
amazing route!
Soft |
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7b | ★★★ Vocheso | 30m | |||||
Doppelsend mit der Besten
Soft |