Routes in Yamanashi

Sit start of Decided.

Trad-route in the northface. More at www.kletterblock.de

God Hand

石器時代 Translates as "Stone Age"

愁いの王 "King of melancholy"

Translates as ”Finishing touch”

ティンバーヤード　（初段)

The Japanese Grade is Shodan (初段)

Translates as "Mountain light flower"

Translates as "Flower Festival"

The Japanese Grade is 1 kyuu (1級）)

夏木立 1級 リップトラパース

Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。　A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route.

なきっつら

1級SD This boulder is incredibly small.

This route is on the rock formation known as Dog Head Rock

タンジェリンクラウド

Pitch 1 of Naoto Ridge climbed free

The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus.

This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb.

One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade.

Translates as "Life theater"

Multi Pitch Climb

Japanese climbing grade 2 Kyuu (2級)

Pitch 1 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free

hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.

Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section.

Three F1 size cams

Take Care

Starts on huge jugs and big features, but quickly changes to very small holds and bad feet just as the wall starts to become overhung. The crux of the climb is the last 5m. Save your energy and your nerves for the top section as it is very technical, pumpy and run out. This is a great climb and should be attempted at least once.

Translates as "Angels Stairs"

Translates as "Looking for hidden gold"

Translates as "Invitation to the imperial family"

The route translates as "king of beasts".

にんげんせんげん

Yon Dan Hang pitch 1 climbed free

Pitch 2 of Gyaku V Ji Hang climbed free

Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.

Translates as "Long farewell"

Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang.

Anonymous Roof Crack

Fantastic example of a hard Japanese style slab route. Prime viewing location for spectators.

The Same Variation

F1～4 2-3set use70m