Routes in Tokyo/Okumusashi/Okutama

Name Translates as "Fireball boy"

10 kyuu

Lying horizontally under the rock, right foot heel hook, and hand hold is the lowest.

The name means "pig's chin", which is a very vivid metaphor.

Japanese Grade - 初段

Name translates as "Leading Radish"

The classic of the crag. A long outing that traverses rightwards underneath the big overhang. Don't stop at the lower-off on the lip, but continue on up the slab to the top. It is advisable to switch to the belay at the lip when lowering off as rope drag can make it difficult to recover the rope when lowering all the way to the ground from the top belay.

Can be lead using the bolts left and right of the line. Eliminate.

6級 Sit start on jug and mantle

鵜 is pronounced U and means Cormorant

Name Translates as "Outburst of crickets chirping"

routes down near the river.

The warm-up of the crag, but actually a very good route compared to typical limestone 5.9s.

Match on the last hold to the left then up.

SD start with a bad landing

starts on the ledge above climbs 1-9

Translates as "snot-nosed kid"

A short route on the slabby face. 3 bolts and lower off from the in-situ tat on the tree at the top of the route. Stay alive by checking the condition of the tat before lowering off!! Hi is a deprecated word for Hinoki (檜) - Japanese cypress.

Name is onomatopoeia for the sound of something splashing into a large body of water.

5 kyuu

SD Start

P1: 5.10b/c P2: 5.10a P3: 5.9

Japanese Grade: 3dan (三段)

Climb the arete to the right of 'Dead End' Japanese Grade - 7級

Start off as for Hokurakushimon, but head straight up through the roof where that route traverses off rightwards. Don't finish at the lip belay but continue on to the top belay.

Another contrived eliminate line.

6級

Crux is through the small overhang

Not quite as good as Armadillo, but good nonetheless. Name means round jug.

Start on the jugs to right of Arete traverse to the left then up the line of jugs.

Sit start on the two best holds of the climb, mantle then slab to the top.

starts on the ledge above climbs 1-9

The slightly easier climb on the face to the right. Bolted lower-off. Hi is a deprecated word for Hinoki (檜) - Japanese cypress.

A variation to Bubbles starting up the wall left of the ramp. Very high first bolt - take extreme care or stick clip it.

10 kyuu