Routes in Kenya

Starts to the left of Criss-Cross Chimney and finishes to the right. Start 3 m to the right of the chimney at the left of the buttress of Criss-Cross Chimney.

1. 15 m - Climb the left edge of a wall to a ledge then up the slab to the left, a steep chimney leads to a large ledge. Thread belay.

2. 15 m - Move across the chimney and traverse right into the scoop then follow the root-filled crack finishing to the left of the tree.

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

Continue along ledge from Thin Start, crossing small dip and up to top of another pile of boulders. Take wall direct, moving slightly left-handed.

Start as for Allegro. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. At right- hand end ascend wall direct to finish.

The large crack turns into an overhanging hand crack that ends at two bolts.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

front face from downstream side

thin finger cracks

Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts.

Face left for salty, and right for sweet. Stand-start for both with hands on the lower boulder.

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

Start 12m right of Jacob’s Ladder at prominent band of quartz. Ascend groove, moving left-handed and cross over extreme right-hand point of overhang to finish by moving right. An alternate finish (Severe) is to traverse right into recess behind tree and climb back wall direct.

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish.

Start and first moves as for Coney Corner. Climb middle tree and take wall direct.

Start - There is a large face (which did not feature in the Adams sketch) to the left of the col and above the lower part of the crag's easy way down. At the bottom of the face, to the left of the corner a small block (20 ft. to the right of a dead tree) leans against the face.

1. 90 ft. Step off the block and climb up left. At 50 ft. traverse right and climb the edge. "Hollybush" belay.

2. 100 ft. Up to a ledge. Belay to a bush on the right.

3. 90 ft. From the left centre of the ledge ascend generally on the left to the two holly bushes.

4. 80 ft. After an energetic move up between the bushes, go straight up to a stance.

5. 50 ft. Diagonally left onto an easy ridge which leads to a tree.

Climb rotten chimney, traverse L below overhangs, go up zigzag crack and hence to top.

shallow red corner, start left

Climb cracks rightwards to a big bouldery ledge below roofs. Climb over these left then right to easier ground.

Looking at the South Wall of Ololokwe from the junction of Wamba and Isiolo roads, there's a prominent nose - seen as a profile - that protrudes from the face about two-thirds of the way up. This is about 50 to 60 metres left of the Original route (Chambers’/Mwengela) that traverse up the grassy ledges. The route starts at a right facing corner and comes up to the nose. It follows a series of corners and slabs to reach the headwall below the nose. Up to the nose and around its left to the top.

1. Start at a prominent right-facing corner (not visible from the road). Follow this to a grassy ledge/terrace. Belay from tree. 55 metres

2. Climb face up and slightly left with poor protection. This leads to a belay at the cycad just below another right-facing corner. 30 metres

3. Up corner to a small overhang. Surmount this to good belay below bulging left wall. 30 metres

4. Up bulging wall and continue slightly right to reach a hanging belay at a large downward-facing flake/crack. 55 metres

5. Up left of belay through some well protected flakes. Then a long unprotected slab follows. Climb this up and left to the base of the headwall. Belay at the foot of crack/large flake directly below the prominent nose feature. 50 metres more like 30 m the bivi at the end of pitch 5 is ok for a party of two. More people should try to go to the vulture nest at the top of pitch 7, but time is necessary to reach it the first day. Alternatively, a small downward traverse to the left of the top of pitch 5 leads to a large ledge with space for a more comfortable bivouac (~10m from leftmost part of ledge at topo of pitch 5)

6. Follow crack to where it becomes too thin to climb free (about 10 metres). Then on aid (pegs and small gear) to pigeonhole below small overhang. 15 metres

7. Through overhang (on aid) then free climbing leads leftwards and onto the vulture ledge below the nose. This is a good bivi site (assuming one does not have to share with vultures). Alternatively bivi below and left of belay below pitch six where a cave is formed by a large leaning flake as was done on first ascent. 55 metres

8. The route follows the left side of the nose. A few acrobatic moves from belay lead to good cracks. Follow these, as they become increasingly vegetated. Belay behind large blocks just below tree. 50m

9. Continue through the tree and onto poorly protected slabs on left to vegetated terrace on the same level as the top of the nose. This pitch uses the full 60m rope length. First ascent party had to do a short intermediary pitch to reach the terrace. 60 metres

10. Scramble up the terrace to the base of a black wall. 20 metres (no climbing, just walking)

11. Use a prominent white route on the right to move up the black wall to a stance below downward-facing flake. 20 - 30m including a 10 m horizontal leftwards traverse on good footholds. Hanging belay at the flake

12. Left around the flake and then up onto another ledge below giant slab which spans a large gully. 20 metres

13. Climb through a tree growing out of the base in the centre of the slab and continue rightwards toward a corner. Up the corner onto another terrace. 20 metres

14. Move up rightwards into a corner toward a block which is climbed as a layback then off-width. Up this then another block to the final terrace. 20 - 30m

Walk up and right to the top.

Trip report here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212958/Ololokwe-south-face-Mirage

A steep climb on good rock with adequate protection.

1. 45m 5a. Climb the main crack system with occasional minor side-steps to tree belay and good abseil point.

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage.

Fun slabby route that finishes under the tree.

Fairly consistent, moderate slab climbing, with a few delicate moves in the upper section

This was an elegant V7/8 that was very nearly sent before suffering from a key broken hold. It is still doable and is likely a quality V9 (or harder). Sit start with bad feet and matched on the obvious edge with shallow thumb catches. Get off the ground and make a difficult pull up and right to a poor gaston (originally a good crimp). From there jump to the jug and then traverse left a few feet to finish on the Bird-Up topout.

A sport route, possibly without top anchors. Beware of peeling flakes.

The obvious chimney to the right of Edinburgh Castle with a large tree in its lower part.

1. 15m. Up chimney, move right past chockstone to belay at tree.

2. 20m. Move left-handed through bushes and climb blocks 6m to foot of groove, ascend 15m to top.

Thin start 3m right of fig tree. Move right-handed clear of tree to finish. A worthwhile route requiring good balance.

Scramble up crescent shaped gully to tree belay. Using lip of crack for layback, climb to end of crack and final belay.

Start 2m right of Beta at corner, straight up.

Start directly behind tree. Ascend vertical watergroove.

Halfway between Cannon and Falling-Off Tree there is a very large scoop about 12m up. Start just right of this at a slight corner in the overhanging base. The tree and a peg enable the wall to be gained. Move left to good holds and straight up to finish.

Start where detached flake rests against small tree at foot of groove with recess on left at 3m. Ascend groove for 6m and move left onto sloping face to platform and tree. Slightly left to small grassy platform. Right and then left to large recess. Aim for right-hand end of summit boulders to finish.

Get in touch with MCK for the description.

The original route up the steep walls defending Poi is also the easiest route on the North, East or South Side. The rock is generally good but apart from the first few pitches the protection is sparse though adequate belays may be found.

From the Arboretum Ledge onwards retreat could be problematical as the route then is located above a huge concave and overhanging rock face. On the first ascent the lower band of overhangs was breached with the help of some aid. This has subsequently been climbed free by Pat Littlejohn.

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46LziL1uDDo

This is the bulging crackline left of 'Vertigo'. Start about 12 m left of 'Vertigo' at short corner beneath prominent tree which grows some 18 m up cliff. Climb corner to ledge on right. Move up good cracks which lead to widening. Ascend this (3 aid nuts), then move left to ledge. Up and left again to obvious tree. Abseil off tree. Seriousness: 3

big chimney behind tree

steep corner on downstream face

From the slab of no. 13, climb right-wards then straight up a crack to easy ground and the top.

Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb.

Low start on compression of the block that looks like a boat near a pile of trash. Compress your way up to the throne topout.

#SD #crimpy

Stand-start on a good white hold as far right as the bush allows. Heel hook and work your way across to the big jugs in the middle.

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

Start between two large piles of boulders at short wall with projecting boulder in middle. Climb to left of boulder for 3m to platform. From platform climb to wall and move away right-handed to finish.

Start at root of large tree. Climb tree then over flakes to wall. Taking easiest line move slightly right, leaving nettle tree to right, then left to tree. Finish over boulder to top. An alternate start is 1.5m to left of tree in corner.

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Eagle's Nest Traverse is the third: Climb up to small recess and belay. Traverse across semi-detached flake on left and follow line of weakness across South End. Descend in crack to stance above eagle’s nest. Take wall above stance to finish.

1. 25m Start as for Recompense but continue up the steep groove to the overhang and move right to a belay in the groove above. (This has only been done with two pegs for protection in the upper part of the groove).

2. 12m Move up to the right and finish up the upper corner of Recompense.

Abseil Tree Number 2

downstream chimney on block

big chimney, left at top

Follow the crimps up the left-hand side of the face, and struggle over or under the tree branch at the top.

Crosses Radical from right to left. Start 6 m the right of Radical start where there is a line of weakness just left of a detached pinnacle.

1. 18 m - Climb diagonally left to mantleshelf in a corner and then traverse out (airy and well protected) onto the face where a further mantleshelf leads into a groove. This ends at a block belay at the base of the undercut groove on pitch 2 of Radical.

2. 24 m - Traverse left and either climb straight over the overhanging continuation of pitch 1 of Radical (crux not led) or take the wall 10 feet to the left where 2 high holds lead to easier things (crux) then follow the obvious weakness to the top.

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

Start on right of middle tree. Up crack behind detached flakes to platform and move right to tree then climb wall direct.

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

The arete R of Ivory Comer is climbed by Ivory Pillar (V I-, A1); near the top a slab L of pillar is taken.

[not sure whether the following description by Andrew Wielochowski belongs to this route or the next] R of this is another huge comer system. The top sections of the L-hand walls are red and overhanging. A giant roof caps the whole system.

Awesome climb with a variety of moves. Begin on the clean slab in between Flying Dutchman and BabylonThrutch. Delicate moves on tiny holds for 3 m leads to small crack. Continue up sharp finger crack that widens into a hand crack to anchor on top of arete on right. Take small stoppers and a full set of Friends.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top.

Climb a recess to a shallow chimney; go up this to top.

start an above, move left to narrow buttress

An easy descent ramp.

Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start.

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

Long sport route traversing left. Take care as some of the bolts are on loose rock.

Crux at blank section around 5th bolt

Work up a few tricky moves to a stance at the second bolt. From here power endurance and pinch strength leads through various cruxes to reach a powerful undercling finish and a lower-off anchor. (Bolted by Kris Fiore/Fish. Awaits an FA!)

Start in right hand chimney. Climb chimney as far as first tree and move right on slab to belay.

Start at very bottom of slab, 3m to left of quartz inset. Climb leads up to grassy gangway from which an obvious route follows series of flakes up face, leading to thorn tree on skyline.

Start on right at point of gully. Simple traverse right leads behind small tree. Climb up moving right then left to the top.

Start some 9m right main waterchute at boulder lying on edge. Climb to boulder, then into groove and out at eye of groove.

Start in deep gully with fig tree growing some way up. 1.5m up gully then traverse left and continue climb to recess. Take wall behind to belay at tree.

This goes up the extreme left of the righthand slab. Start in the gully 50 yards to left of the cliff just above a horizontal ledge cros­sing the lower slabs (Moderate). The route takes the only breaks in the grassy ledges on the right wall of the gully, then exits at the extreme righthand end of the huge overhangs.

1. 80 ft. Trending slightly leftwards up knobbly wall.

2. 110 ft. Ascending traverse to left until a yellow pillar can be seen breaking through the lower clumps of grass. Up this, the holds slope awkwardly. Traverse- left 5 ft. and take the only gap in the next grass ledge. Good belay 10 ft, above ledge.

3. 100 ft. Shallow groove leads to left of obvious tree. Belay,

4. 100 ft. Slightly right to foot of steep wall between two big overhangs. Tree belay,

5. 80 ft. Descending traverse to right over slabs and grass to big block by tree.

6. Holds 60 ft. 15 ft. to right an overhung slab leads to the overhang. appear above crux. Between two trees to many tree belays.

7. and 8 150 ft. Up water groove easily.

Near the left end of the crag is a vertical section of cliff. Just left of this is an obvious chimney high up on the wall. Start below the chimney.

1. 110 ft. Up vegetated wall, into V crack. Ascend crack and exit left..Up 10ft. then make a rising traverse right. Delicate in places. Belay at back of chimney.

2. 70 ft. Straight up chimney or more interesting traverse right and onto ridge. Up to finish.

Don't waste your time, it's really a gully. Grotty scrambling below makes it unsuitable for descent.

up slab on right side

First long arete

At the far right end of the crag, an obvious and deep left-facing chimney.

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

Up the overhanging arete going right from Up and Left. Project possibly in the V8 range according to those who have tried it.