Routes in Kyrgyzstan

Detailed description here

Shares most sections with "Moroza Route"

Description and topo here

A variation from the bivvy ledge left of Perestroika

Accessed via couloir approx 200m left of "Little Russian Tower". Descent by rapping the arete.

This is a newly bolted line by Amadeus that is in the second area at Chongkurchak. It follows a perfectly vertical wall with very little feature. the first half has 4 bolts and the second half has only one (causing the R rating since if you fall at the 5th bolt you will most likely hit the ground from 10 meters up.)

The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.

This climb is to the left of La Dalle A Didi in the second area at Chongkurchak.

There are 5 bolts to clip plus the potential for placing a small cam or nut between bolts 2 and 3. You may also feel like you need to protect the second half with more than just the one bolt that is there. There are places to put some trad gear in though so no worries. Good anchors at the top as well.

Route description here. Something between 34 to 44 pitches depending on how you stretch the rope. Committing.

On the left side of the triangular, slabby, west face

The first line put up on the wall goes straight up the center

The OW, #5 & #6 needed

There were originally 4 bolts and then an anchor, but the first bolt has been chopped. This makes the climb a bit R rated as the second bolt (now the first bolt) is at least 6 metres from the ground and is not at a great spot for clipping. There is, however, a small crack where you could stick in a nut about 4 metres from the start. The crux is halfway up the climb at the (now) second bolt.

Bolted(!) to pitch 6. When bolts end, take the middle or right cracks (not left as described).

High quality route up the right side of the wall. The topos available are missing the final pitch, a ~6bish OW (#6 quite handy)

Crux pitch are partially bolted Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Start on the bolted line below the large roof. Nice techy slab until big roof. Overcome the roof with difficulty via the corner. Then more slab with a nice undercling. Continue carefully until belay station on the left.

Start directly under the double roof with piton on the first roof. Climb delicately as very little gear until 4 to 5 meters up above roof (two bolts nearby if you feel like it). Afterwards the face gets easier as you're getting towards the belay station.

The start is good and hard as it follows fairly similarly the start of a 6c to the right of it. Further up the climb the holds become quite small and there is a good amount of technical slab climbing/smearing. The top mellows out and then there are your anchors!

Pitch 1 - Start at the bottom of a faint crack below an obvious cave. Stay to the right of the cave and follow crack with care as little gear and loose rock for the first 10 metres. Continue onto a slab and unto easier ground for 30 metres until a large flat ledge with nut and cam belay below a small wall. 50m

Pitch 2 -  Move up to the left side of the wall following a faint crack onto a ledge with good protection. Afterwards move onto a small slab section and into a depression, continue up the face and with a tricky step onto another slab section. Nut and cam belay at the base of a large wide crack on the left side of the face. 50m

Pitch 3 - Work your way up the crack/gully and scramble up easier ground for 30m on the left of the face until a large crack is reached with nut and cam belay. 35m

Pitch 4 - Move right onto the face climbing carefully up loose rock onto more stable but poorly protected ground. Continue for 15m up on top of the face and venture right towards a large niche in the rock below an orange wall. 25m

Pitch 5 - Move above or around the large block to the right of the niche (be aware of rope drag for this section), continue up the loose slab and through a small crack. From the crack make an airy traverse rightwards and up a gully with some lovely bridging moves. Final scramble to the top of the tower. 50-55m

Descent on the right hand side via a series of steep gullies and crack systems.

The SE ridge & arete. The approach on the glacier between Odessa and LOMO is somewhat serious (go early; stick to the Odessa side)

Description [Edit] Lovely crack on the left wall next to Al Moudi (Pj's Crew graffiti). Difficult but exciting start makes way for easier ground after several metres, continue to follow the centre of the wall (deviating left or right lowers the grade) and finish on the same belay station as Men in Black.

Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Bolted line just left of the waterfall. Begin on a crack with nice lay backing moves until you reach a large niche, move up the niche and onto the face with some fun technical moves past a small ledge. Rope Belay at the top.

Far right bolted line on the face. Easier than it looks. Nice face climbing with good holds on the left. Overcome first roof directly. Continue up face to second roof and climb over via the right side. Continue up straight than slightly left below final roof, belay station on the upper roof (6c alternative, climb roof directly with reachy moves to top and sweet heel hook).

Start on the right side of the same high roof as number 6. Climb awkwardly to overcome the initial roof and climb with care after as there is little gear until a break 2/3 up, following the shallow groove with nice finger cracks. Overcome final roof, belay station on the right.

2nd bolted line on the left. Slaby and techy face along a thin crack to the right of the bolts. Climb with care as there are no bolts between the second and the belay station.

2nd from the left at area 2

Descent via Route 2 (rings)

Start one the right hand side of the low lip below the shattered crack. Take care on the high roof, there is a piton on the left. Roof can either be taken directly or the left.

This is a nice little climb going up a solid prow. Holds are often smaller and less obvious than most of the other climbs in this area. Good route though!

Sections damaged by rockfall

Start at the obvious gully and move up to a large boulder with poor protection, make exciting moves out of the overhang being careful of the loose rock. Once on top of the boulder move right and up into the obvious crack, nut belay at the top of crack. Descent is an abseil from the pinnacle on the west side of the rock.

Lovely splitter crack to the left of the right bolted line. Make your way up the crack, great gear placement along the way (pitons if you need). Obvious belay station on the large roof.

Start in the groove to the right of the large roof. Crux at the start with two pitons lower down, gets easier as you go. Exit to the left of the high roof (6a+ - 6b alternative, climb the roof directly).

Start at a rightward slanting crack immediately to the right of the far left Bolted line. Easy moves up the crack until at the base of the black streaked slab section, climb direct the black slab avoiding the easier holds in the crack to the right and the sport route line to the left. Continue to the boulder at the top and nut belay behind.

Far left bolted line, proper slab route. We stayed slightly right of the bolts.

Another good simple route that may also be sketchy due to loose rock as mentioned in Route 3.

This route is unaccesable now due to a past death that looks like it resulted from a large Van sized boulder coming loose while being climbed on. All the bolts have been cut. Give it a try on free solo if you think its worth it...

Simple climb. It may be a bit wet though in some spots.

Start at the bottom left hand side of the broken right leaning roof system. Follow the roof easily until a final section 5m from the top using delicate feet and solid underclings. Same belay station as route 11.

Start to the right of bolted line route 9 directly underneath the curved section of the roof. A difficult overhanging start and a reachy move make way for easier climbing. Belay station at top.

Begin at the left leaning crack on the far left of the crag. Follow the crack at first with ease until below a small roof, confident feet and a good reach needed to overcome this section. Continue until the boulder at the top with a nut belay station directly behind.

Start at a small flake to the left of the second sport route from the left. Proceed up the flake onto a small 1-2m slab section and then following a vague crack to the top and belay station on the right.

First crack left of the far left sport route. Start at the twin tat, move up the slab with some good but spaced holds along the crack. Easier ground higher up to a proper belay station.

A nice easy climb to warm up on. This is also one of the only climbs here that you can protect with finger sized trad gear (and a couple larger pieces).

Another good route to bring beginners to. Almost like walking up a cracked staircase.

Another simple route that is a great warmup. Starts with a bunch of face holds, then you get a slightly smaller than the fist crack that you can jam up, and then it is back to easy face holds again.