Ascents in The Arch having Beta

So lovely

Cool exposure

Great route

the extreme edge cat artist strikes back

end of the session attempt, why'd I try

A decent fun climb. I got cooked through the crux. Need to send it fresher next time.

Repeat, easier than The Angel of Calcutta IMO.

Lovely route. Felt much easier than angel of Calcutta

Last climb of the day, bailed at 3rd bolt, too tired to go up.

Sooooo good, last route of the day, close to falling at the bottom, at the top I can't believe I stuck it, but did. Great finish!

climbed to the third bolt. Too tired to continute. Tried to climb stright up from 1st to 2nd bolt but failed, end up pulled the chain to go up.

Really nice! Heaps of good placements.

Freeing the rope and cleaning off the gear. Tried the right exit and it seemed very doable.

Fun route. Doesn't add any difficulty compared to Skin Thicker than a Hutt, as you still get a good rest. It would have made more sense to start with Dom Jabbar starts. #1stgo Need to try the right exit now.

Repeat

Clipped all bolts but then used the wrong feet for the crossover from gaston crimp to the triangle hold.

High point. Clipped all the bolts but didn't get the top layback hold very well and fell.

Warm up. Repeat. Putting gear on Skin Thicker than Hutt.

Hand jam for the win. Solid 24, however, I need to come back to do the direct way to the anchor rather than scrambling over the top.

Worked out the top crux. Found a good hand jam and cleaned the top.

Did all the moves (in pieces) up to the sloper top. But expected the sloper to be better and took the fall.

Sorted most of the moves.

Wow that top section is pretty hard. I clipped the last bolt, but couldn't find a way to the top. I seemed to be about one hold short. The combination of bad beta and bad skin was unassailable

Nice straight forward climbing, there was a good variation of different holds types, made it quite fun. If I wasn't told to stick to the crack feature to the right of fourth I would've been confused.

Repeat after 3 years. The run out is real tho

Repeat

Went right rather than up the arete and ended up struggling more on this than the 19 next to it 😅

#2nd go. Went direct with a right hand low side pull then a long lock off left hand on the crimp. seems pretty direct without traversing right. not sure what anyone else is doing to make this 25/26 🤷‍♂️ Grade aside this is a quality route... bolting is a bit odd with a committing move to put that 4th draw in ground up but when "pink" pointing wasn't an issue.

Warm up. Got a bit pumped. 20 if you don’t jam I reckon

Repeat

You get the cruxes of both routes but a good rest in between. A bit contrived, but a nice option if you don't want to carry your trad rack to the crag. #2ndGo

Up the arête then right at 2nd bolt. Hard.

Right-hand variation. Fun and fairly obvious line. Quite different and much easier compared to how the FA was done though. Nice test of your head game going up to 4th bolt. Would give it at least 2 stars if the rock quality was more reliable up top...

Repeat

Repeat

Right-hand variation. Game of Russian Roulette trying to top out without pulling too hard on the death block.

Super atmospheric with the wind blowing and the waves crashing!!

At least as hard as Chad, and I haven't done the roof yet. Thanks to Eric's help past the crux [better jamming helped too]. Tricam blew out behind large block, so I'll abseil down again to check that next sections placements, seems a lot of stacked blocks :-/

Alexei's beta (right-hand variation) makes this about 24, not 26

It was very nice to overcome my fear of the runout from 3rd to 4th bolt I did take one whip there yesterday and it's a totally safe fall of course, and actually quite fun!! I initially found the 3rd to 4th bolt to be my personal crux (once Alexei sorted nice beta for the first 3 bolts), but turns out I was just not trusting the nice slopery layback up top because I was being a dumbass about the feet 😅 (had nice foot chip for right foot but didn't think to stick left foot in the crimp slot you use to get up into the layback section at first - silly!) Once I worked it out it was fine. Although I did get fairly pumped due to all the sloper goodness throughout the route - in other words, it was a great one for me to have worked and sent! 💙🐦🐦

Thanks, Daniel Scott!

Found some better beta by going right early (after clipping second bolt) rather than going right late.

Clean to third bolt. One hang then to the top.

Redpoint. But not in the best style since second bolt was pre-clipped.