Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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25 | |||||||||
25 | Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off | 9m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | Maisola Party | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★ Ugly Murmurs | 9m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | Thunderpussy | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 15th Oct 2014 | |||||
Dangle and thrash. Got up eventually, gardening on the way. Needs a serious scrub at top. One to work on.
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25 | ★ Ugly Murmurs - with Peter Mobberly | 9m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 14th Jan 2015 | ||||
Ugly indeed. Will loosen your hips up nicely...
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24 | |||||||||
24 | ★★ Load It For Me | 17m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
24 | Splatter | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Porkland | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 3rd Dec 2014 | |||||
Dangle and thrash on top rope. Shut down at the side step to Bad Behaviour. Grrr.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 18th Feb 2015 | |||||
Usual story on top rope. Bah.
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24 | ★★ Desolation Angel - with Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Sat 7th Mar 2015 | |||||
Hahaha. Fail.
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24 | ★ Melquiades - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 25th Mar 2015 | |||||
Got about 3 moves off the ground on top rope. Hard start!
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24 | ★ The Raven | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 28th Oct 2015 | |||||
Can get through the crux but need to work on the sequence above. Having to re-do the crux after rope stretch every attempt is knackering.
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24 | ★★ Desolation Angel | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Sun 24th Jan 2016 | |||||
On top rope with Blair coaching. Too knackered to get fully into the top crack but setup sequence improved.
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24 | ★ Sheerlux | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | |||||
Top rope. All fine until pitching off just below the roof, then too much trouble to get back on.
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24 | ★★ Chasing After Charlie Direct | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | ||||
After watching Blair and Jason work out the moves. A fair bit of dangling but not much thrashing. Somewhat surprised.
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24 | ★ The Raven | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 14th Dec 2016 | |||||
Failed to sail up it. Stumped in the usual spot getting to the jug near the top. Hm.
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24 | ★★★ Porkland | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Dec 2016 | ||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 8th Feb 2017 | |||||
A bit of hanging around through the crux but somewhat better than usual.
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24 | ★ Sheerlux | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | |||||
Dangle and thrash at crux on top rope. Knackered, gave up.
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24 | ★★ Spanish Moon - with Andy Baird | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Mon 17th Apr 2017 | |||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jun 2017 | ||||
Several rests.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jun 2017 | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the traverse right.
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24 | ★★ Desolation Angel - with antony guillemin, blair johnston | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Sun 1st Feb 2015 | |||||
24 | ★ The Raven - with Terry | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 11th Feb 2015 | ||||
23 | |||||||||
23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | ||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with Paul | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | ||||
Boy this is hard. First attempt and very much dangle and thrash. Gonna take a bit more just to work out the bottom. Top is way beyond me at the moment.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Dec 2014 | ||||
Been quite a while since I was on this. Semi-spanked.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 11th Feb 2015 | ||||
On top rope, shut down getting past the bolt.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Grant Johnston | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 4th Mar 2015 | ||||
Couldn't do the start on top rope. Feh. Have had various TR attempts since 2011. Always fell off somewhere.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Slipped off in the groove, took a rest before the block top.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Too buggered to finish
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | ||||
No problems with the start (another sign of improvement?) but came off after the move right, hard to get back on. Then struggled with the top but found a possibly more stable sequence using the arete.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | ||||
Back for another go pre-pub. The arete sequence is easier with the initial grab a bit higher. The jug above is sharp, foot slipped, there was blood.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with John Pitcairn | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
working this one for the second week
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy - with Paul Whitfield | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
The top arete variation turns out to be too compressed for me. Found a better sequence for the usual way, perhaps a lead is likely soon.
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23 | ★★ Bodysnatcher - with Grant Johnston | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 10th Feb 2016 | ||||
Bloody sustained. Had a bit of a sit and regroup through the peapod bridging.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 22nd May 2016 | ||||
Spat off at top but not too bad remembererering the moves.
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23 | Diddely Dick | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Sun 10th Jul 2016 | ||||
A bit of a thrash around working it out. A couple of the best holds below the first bolt are really rather loose and may make a lead a scary proposition. Top sequence is quite ok.
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23 | ★★ Bodysnatcher | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | ||||
Warmup (ha) through the first section to the start of the bridging.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | ||||
Perhaps not as close to a lead as might be hoped. Blair made it look easy of course.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Nov 2016 | ||||
Got a couple of moves off the ground, not quite to the "jug". Bah.
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23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 1st Feb 2017 | ||||
Had to work out the top again. Ant did it better. Guess my strength is returning.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Feb 2017 | ||||
Testing placements. Arsed off at the low crux.
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23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 8th Feb 2017 | |||||
How have we missed this? It's great. Close to nailing it first attempt but bollocksed up the move across to the top block. Fun.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 11th Feb 2017 | ||||
Not quite to the first low jug. Getting hot and greasy. Feh.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
Top rope. Mostly figured out the bottom, had a good go at the top but ran out of steam after the bolt and lowered.
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23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
Got maybe 2m. Other climbs I should work on before this one.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - with John Pitcairn, steve | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2017 | ||||
Happy to top out. With running beta from John and lots of rests. Good climb with lots of different moves in it.One worth working on.
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23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct - with John Pitcairn | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jun 2017 | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the roof. Missed the undercling and gave up.
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22 | |||||||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Steve | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Oct 2014 | ||||
With Dave instructing. Long time since I've done this one. Will be trying this one again.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with James Mitchell | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Oct 2012 | ||||
John & James' man-up day. Took a good fall at the crux then got it. Look for the foothold at far left and your life will become easier.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with John | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 5th Nov 2014 | ||||
One fall on to the first bolt. I note that this is down as a "mixed" climb. I would say it is "sport". 2 bolts. No gear of any use below the first bolt. Doubt there is anything above the second bolt but you don't need gear there anyway.
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22 | ★★ Banshee - with Grant Johnston | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Nov 2014 | ||||
Dunno what it is about this but the top just spanks me most attempts. Maybe I should just get on lead to focus the mind.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | ||||
Fell off, twice.
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 25th Feb 2015 | ||||
Short fall onto blue alien at the crux. Must do better.
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22 | ★★ Banshee - with Ronnie | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st May 2015 | ||||
22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jul 2015 | ||||
Bit warm. Arete crush is avoidable.
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22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jul 2015 | ||||
Bridge until top drill hole is reachable
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Aug 2015 | ||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 30th Sep 2015 | ||||
Crux on 4th attempt
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 7th Oct 2015 | ||||
Lost count of crux attempts.
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 7th Oct 2015 | ||||
Couldn't get past crux, hands wouldn't stick
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 14th Oct 2015 | ||||
Only 6 attempts at crux
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22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide - with Grant Johnston | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 17th Oct 2015 | ||||
Placing gear makes things rather more difficult. Think I would like a grade or two spare before leading.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | ||||
Still took multi attempts at crux, will go next time...
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
Short plummet sorting myself out after the move left.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | ||||
Crux in 3
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Almost clean, slipped at crux
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22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | ||||
Clean until the top drill hole, then lost it all crossed up.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Dec 2015 | ||||
Haven't climbed for a month so forgot lay back at crux
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 29th Dec 2015 | ||||
22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 24th Feb 2016 | ||||
Off at crux onto good gear.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - with Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 22nd May 2016 | ||||
Sort of direct up the buttress without stepping right to ledge at start. Lots harder. Wouldn't want to lead it like that, long way to the bolt.
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Jun 2016 | ||||
Spent too long finding the secret sidepull at the top and wilted off onto the #1 nut at my feet, stopping somewhere below the halfway ledge. Took a few minutes for the fingers to recover then up and completed it. #1 needed a bash with a rock to retrieve. Bashed my finger too. Ow.
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Jul 2016 | ||||
Off onto the top nut again, a very long fall with a very soft catch, meeting my lightweight belayer somewhere in the bottom third. Back on and completed it.
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Wilted off the top twice. Numb finger. Bailed.
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22 | ★ Stem The Evil Tide | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 16th Nov 2016 | ||||
Struggled up on top rope, then attempted a direct finish over the bulge at the top of Suspended Animation. Got to the fissure hold beside the bolt, then, ummm ...
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Nov 2016 | ||||
Left foot refused to get onto the crux hold. Rope still very stretchy.
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22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 17th Dec 2016 | ||||
Nice slapping
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22 | ★ Barracuda | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2016 | ||||
Top rope, placing gear. Bloody glad I didn't just get on lead. The gear is tiny, fiddly and totally in the way. I'll want a couple of grades leeway before attempting it I think. I wonder if those who downgraded it from 24 to 22 actually led it placing gear?
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - with Grant Johnston | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 21st May 2017 | ||||
Failed and lowered from the crux on top rope. Grant put me to shame by scampering through easily.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with Grant Johnston | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - with John Pitcairn | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | ||||
Oh dear, Major problems. I need to learn this again.
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21 | |||||||||
21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Grant Johnston | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 9th Nov 2014 | ||||
The wobbly block is really quite wobbly, don't sling it for pro. A bit of a scary shambles with a back-off and hang at the crux, gear thrown up, then got through it. Maybe clean next time.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Grant Johnston | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 4th Mar 2015 | ||||
So ... I think it was Angela sandbagged me into this as a "warmup". RP in the bottom then two nuts in the eliminate crack. Placed a #3 ball nut in the final groove before the crux but the rope across the groove becomes a real barrier. Sat on the ball nut, got a second rope thrown up, tied in and clipped that to the ball nut then completed it on doubles. Not sure this is better than protecting the eliminate and slinging the block. And what an arse to clean on abseil. Hardly my finest moment...
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21 | ★★ Thimblerigger | 12m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jun 2015 | ||||
Bolloxed it up and fell from above onto crux cam, a good 5m, time enough to think on the way down. Got Anthony airborne. Climbed back through and finished it.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Paul Whitfield | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | ||||
All going well until nasty tricep cramp at crux. Managed to downclimb, rested on the rope to massage it out, then completed the lead. Not warmed up enough I guess.
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21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust | 12m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 25th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fell on the arete after the first bolt, numb fingertip, rope burn behind knee. Wrote the evening off.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2016 | ||||
Dropped out of the crux. Found a better sequence - left foot compressed to block, then extended right-hand push on arete allows both feet to be repositioned.
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21 | ★★ Thimblerigger - with Angela Hewlett | 12m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Feb 2016 | ||||
Spat off onto the crux finger size cam again. Need to consolidate a bit on this, solid 21.
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21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust | 12m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 19th Oct 2016 | ||||
Peeled off the arete hard onto the first bolt again. Numb finger again. Sulk.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Grant Johnston | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 8th Apr 2017 | ||||
Sat on a brass offset at the crux several times remembering what to do. Suck it up, mostly.
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20 | |||||||||
20 | Kamikaze Krack | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
Argh. Barely off the ground.
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20 | Kamikaze Krack | 15m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Sat 17th Oct 2015 | ||||
No higher. 20 my arse.
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19 | |||||||||
19 | ★★ Koruba | 14m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 28th Jan 2015 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Tim Swain, John Pitcairn | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - with John Pitcairn | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Hauled up the start, work in progress
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 7th Oct 2015 | |||||
Close to getting crux start, next time...
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