Ascents of Carpe Diem having Beta

Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.

Pretty cruxy for a warm up.

Nailed the crux first attempt, stepped straight up and threw for higher hold then traversed.

Warmed up this time 😝 Made the left foot after reaching the edge, quickly popped to the left. Also stayed on the right above the ledge. Last time I attempted it, I was on the left and actually found the moves odd trying to get back to the right.

Fell on the first attempt of the crux, then did it immediately. Just need to get that footwork nailed.

Good to get back on it, stuck the v crimp multiple times, had the most trouble getting my feet up.

Stoked to get this on my second go (last send of the day). Very reachy crux but this time I made it

Tricky face climb! It feels harder. It should be on grade for taller people )

Tall people beta 😅

Got crux on the second attempt, when I got hold of it I was holding on with hands only, and bumping them around. Finger board for hands of steel and the win!

Repeat

Can still lank with the newly broken hold.

Shut down by the high reach, tried multiple approaches but couldn't get the reach. Core strength failure?

Took a while to get the move up to the V, had to put feet close together on tip toe, so slightly different strategy from the old one.

If you want to make it hard climb the slab face between carp died and the crack.

Really fun up the crack side, one loosish jug about halfway up.

Not really a 6c, more like 6b+

Not really a 6c, more like 6b+

Including downclimb to ground from crux.

Managed to clip second bolt from undercling/side pull. A little lost after the 3rd bolt. Not quite sure if and/or where it merges with The Carp Died for This Climb. Transitioned right a few moves after the 3rd/4th bolt as I did not see any chalk marks straight up. One block with chalk marks looks like a possible good hand hold but does not look very secure/stable.

Was tantalizingly close using the "normal" beta, might have to find some alternative short person beta (or just get good).

Repeat

repeat

Wanted to flash this one as my first day climbing 'real rock' out of lock down. Used the tall person beta which worked fine for me. Holds were a bit dusty at/above the crux but pretty nice climb otherwise.

Repeat

Repeat. Short-person beta: Left hand to gaston, match right foot with right hand in the break, match hands on gaston, right hand up to crimp. Slightly harder, but no excuses Ryan Yong!

Got the crux hold. Funky to figure out feet after

Felt more like 20-21 since I can reach past the crux move. The slabby end is kinda fun

Repeat

Getting up over the edge isn't easy

Hard finding good feet to get through the legde, just don't look down once you're over it.

Repeat

hard but fun

Repeat

Repeat

2nd attempt when I managed to figure out the crux but still had a few takes there.

1st go, got 2 quickdraws in and got stuck at the crux.

Took three attempts over the same session before I got it clean. For my height (179cm) felt a bit soft for a 22. I would say more like a 21.

Took a little while to work out the moves then managed to work it about 5 times and send it clean

Is the rock too wet or am I too weak? Fell off the crux moves yet again.

bit of a one-move-wonder of a route. I really don't think this is a thing if you're short, I'm 5"2/160cm, unless you fancy a semi-dyno onto a high crimp, starting from invisible feet and a wrist-snapping undercling. in which case, that one move feels a solid few grades harder.

Didn't stick crux first time.

Full redpoint No warm-up. The reach to the crimp from the undercling and the move up and left is so much easier fresh!