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Ascents in Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula having Beta

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 228 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Brasenose and Kaik
Kaik Wall
24 Class Action — 2 attempts - with Richard Flinn Mixed trad 35m, 10 Very Good
Robin Wareing
Really fun with varied and interesting climbing. Unfortunately it's let down a little by the loose blocks and associated gear placements between 8th and 9th bolts.

 
Sun 26th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag
12 ~14 Totter Sport 11m, 4 Average
Doug Wright
Decent

 
19 ~18 Binders Butter Beans Sport 12m, 7 Average
Doug Wright
Alright. Stick right to start

 
16 ~17 Medicinal champagne Sport 12m, 5 Good
Doug Wright
Varied moves with face climbing on slab to finish

 
18 Wharton’s Warple Sport 12m, 5 Very Good
Doug Wright
Great climb with varied moves

 
21 ~20 London Lassitude Sport 12m, 4 Good
Doug Wright
Jugs over the lip then straight forward face climbing

 
Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley
The Main Cliff
21 Jubilee - with Romain Trad 35m Very Good
Gee Rad
After Sam's lead. Cool flare down low. Wet and dirty in the upper crack

 
22 White Wizard - with Romain Trad 35m Classic
Gee Rad
Back with more small cams. Recommend doubles from 0.1-1, single 2 & 3, and wires

 
Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley
Right Cliff
19 Hard Lamentations - with Romain Trad 15m Very Good
Gee Rad
Quite a good rock climb!

 
Thu 16th May 2024 - Fantasy Factory
17 Naming Rites Trad 28m
Julian
Great Route!

 
18 Short Cut to Mushrooms Trad 30m
Julian
Lead it on sight clean after pulling off a large hold which I was able hold for just enough time for my partner to get out of the way. Close call! I then down climbed and went back up and lead it. Felt a little harder than 18.

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag
21 ~20 London Lassitude Sport 12m, 4 Good
Doug Wright
Boulder like start requiring upper body strength. Poor feet but jugs. Afterwards sustained but easier climbing

 
15 ~16 Bowman Sport 12m, 7 Good
Doug Wright
Decent.

 
14 Hard Rarified Atmosphere Sport 12m, 5 Crap
Doug Wright
Crap rock with some questionable blocks. Not enjoyable

 
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Mount Bradley
The Main Cliff
17 Crime of the Century Trad 35m Very Good
Jay
Forgot my climbing shoes and seconded it in my approach shoes.

Pretty fun movement, lots of stemming. We decided to pitch on to the top which I wouldn't recommend.

Another 1.5 pitches through gorse to get to the top and then a bit more gorse bashing to get to the lookout. Walked off the back and jogged down to the car to get out of the carpark by 5:30pm

 
Tue 16th Apr 2024 - The Altar
21 Randall the Horny Clergyman - with Bo Sport 11m, 4 Very Good
Matthew Creahan
Worked hard for this one, probably my hardest onsight

 
20 Holy Fatima — 2 attempts - with Bo Sport 9m, 3 Very Good
Matthew Creahan
Great entertainment. Felt absolutely nails on the first go and pretty cruisy on the redpoint

 
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag
13 Hard Wanderer Sport 12m Classic
boyd goldsbury
most interesting 13 i have done

 
19 Binders Butter Beans Sport 12m, 7 Classic
boyd goldsbury
so good

 
11 Short but Sturdy Sport 7m, 4 Average
boyd goldsbury
lots of rats around there I killed 2 but there are still more

 
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
13 The Shoveller Trad 25m
Cam Hall
nice protection, easy ledges to place gear, spicy final move nut really fun

 
12 Chocolate Frog Trad
Cam Hall
This is pretty run out with loads of gorse and trees in crack. Just be aware. Take some big cams #4 or bigger.

 
14 The Psychedelic Era Trad 20m
Cam Hall
Nice friendly graded lead. Most enjoyable

 
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Dragon Crags
Multi-pitch routes
17 Middlemarch Sport 110m, 28
Cam Hall
Fantastic route. ended up rapping into the gully between the multi pitch routes and the and dragons tail as the walk off was not obvious. 2x raps used 2/60m ropes.

 
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag
19 ~19 London Lassitude - with Kyle, Richard Flinn, Simon, Emma Gulliver Sport 12m, 4 Classic
Thibaut
Excellent climbing throughout. If only it could be a little longer. 19 or soft 20?

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag
Unknown Corner - with Reg Mixed trad 25m, 4 Very Good
Gee Rad
Very good techy start.

 
22 Friendzy - with Reg Trad 30m Classic
Gee Rad
Epic roof!. I found the blocks at the base of the roof a bit scary (crowbar anyone?). A second #4 or a #5 would have been nice. Shortly after, Jacob had a big ground fall out of the initial fist crack, but survived with a few bruises and a broken totem.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
19 Bygone Error Mixed trad 25m, 4
Leonardo Correa
might've taken the wrong exit at the top.

 
19 Pleasant Interlude Trad
Leonardo Correa
scary runnout above second bolt.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Coffin Rock
16 The Undertaker Trad Good
TG
Reasonably sustained. Tricky and awkward at the crux getting through the slot.

 
18 Probait Mixed trad 20m, 6 Very Good
TG
Good. Almost a sport climb but a few pieces needed (just nuts would do)

 
18 Less Bang For Your Buck Mixed trad 2 Classic
TG
Great climb. Tricky slab moves at the bottom, then a steep and intimidating corner with good gear.

 
20 The Graveyard Mixed trad 1 Average
TG
Was thankful for the bolt at the crux, it's desperate! A bit dirty and loose at the top.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
16 Space Inflation Sport 20m, 5
TG
One climb then got rained off 😢

 
19 ~20 Pleasant Interlude Trad Very Good
Marcelo Fernandes
Hard moves traversing the top section and topping out

 
16 The Ultimate Horror Mixed trad 20m, 2 Classic
Marcelo Fernandes
One of my favorites of the day!

 
13 The Shoveller Trad 25m Classic
Marcelo Fernandes
Such nice stemming moves and good protection

 
14 N. S. U. Trad 20m Mega Classic
Marcelo Fernandes
Beautiful route!

 
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
18 Seismi City Mixed trad 2 Good
TG
Nut retrieval duties

 
16 Gorsegeous Groove Trad 20m Good
TG
Cam retrieval. Better than it looks, and the offwidth at the top is kinda cool

 
17 Voie Classique Trad 22m Very Good
TG
A bit heady and sustained in the bottom half, great climbing. Then gets a bit contrived and close to the 16 to the left at the top

 
16 Space Spirals. Trad 25m Very Good
TG
Awkward and tricky at the bottom. Nice climb

 
19 Pleasant Interlude Trad Very Good
TG
Great climb with two cruxes. Runout in the middle and then a bit powerful up the final crack. Had Leos pre placed gear for most of it, which made the run out a little easier

 
18 Paradise Roof Trad 20m Very Good
TG
Good protection apart from the start. Cool and well protected moves through the overhang then mega jugs to the top. Deserves more love!

 
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag
21 ~19 London Lassitude - with Ryan Sport 12m, 4
Matthew Creahan
19 on climbnz, feels about right

 
Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag
19 Monarch - with Felix Trad 30m Classic
Gee Rad
Awesome tricky groove and roof corner!

 
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag
18 ~20 Consequences - with Felix Mixed trad 30m, 1 Good
Gee Rad
Nice moves up the arete and above. Got a little bit scared

 
19 Two Right Hands - with Felix Trad 20m Very Good
Gee Rad
Burly roof moves, fun!

 
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
19 Banksy - with Grubbie Mixed trad 25m, 7 Classic
Kate Bailue
A couple of mid size cams required to protect the upper headwall.

 
22 Falter - with Grubbie Trad 24m Very Good
Kate Bailue
Climbed on top rope. Protection looks sparse and thin.

 
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
22 Dread Nought Sport 25m, 8
Shawn
Cam needed at the ledge I would say

 
18 ~21 Eliminator Trad 18m
Shawn
Went for the direct variation which is supposedly 22

 
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Dragon Crags
Multi-pitch routes
18 ~17 Pioneer Ridge - with Marcus Kumar Mixed trad 120m, 33 Good
Ollie Revis
Scrambly

 
Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Dragon Crags
Multi-pitch routes
18 Pioneer Ridge Mixed trad 120m, 33
Marcus Kumar
unless you you froth the fuck out of trad don't bother bringing your cams up just sling a single alpine around solid rock and that will do

 
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Fantasy Factory
16 Bitterfingers - with TG Trad 28m
Leonardo Correa
Amazing route, great moves.

 
18 Short Cut to Mushrooms Trad 30m Classic
TG
Got it clean on top rope. Will be back to lead again

 
16 Bitterfingers Trad 28m Classic
TG
Brilliant route.

 
16 Women's Weekly Trad 28m Very Good
TG
Tricky chimney type moves through the roof, made harder by avoiding a loose jug. Fairly sustained bridging above.

 
18 Short Cut to Mushrooms — 2 attempts Trad 30m Classic
TG
Crux is very tricky, especially when you don't know where the holds are. Fell at the crux and ripped a cam, luckily the next one was bomber and I missed the ground (just!). Great route, with a few tricky bits up high too. Will be back!

 
15 Scabiosa arete Mixed trad 25m, 4 Very Good
TG
Hardest at the bottom in the bolted part then very easy once above the 4th bolt. Much less vegetated than Scabiosa

 
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Mount Bradley
The Main Cliff
19 Hard Spring Fever - with Romain Trad 30m Very Good
Gee Rad
Desperate finger crack and bridging start into some interesting moves around the roofs. We added some new rope to the rap anchor at the Tōtara.

 
19 Hard Cripple Crack - with Romain Trad 35m Good
Gee Rad
Aided an alt start to the right to avoid vegetation blocking the initial crack, quite dirty and slopey up high. If you head left into the chimney at 30m you can reach the Son of Hangman rap anchor. Don't walk off like we did, the gully is dense!

 
22 White Wizard - with Romain Trad 35m Classic
Gee Rad
Barely got off the ground, decided it was too late in the day/didn't have enough small cams (~#0.2 camalot). Route looks amazing

 
17 Hard Son of Hangman - with Romain Trad 35m Very Good
Gee Rad
Excellent bottom half. Save a #3 and #4 for the crack above the roof. Some new tat for the anchor would be a good idea

 
17 Hard Crime of the Century - with Romain Trad 35m Very Good
Gee Rad
Nice bridging. The gear seemed pretty reasonable for the most part.

 
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Coffin Rock
23 Tomb Raider - with Isaac, Emily Sport 20m, 4
Matthew Creahan
not being so kind to the ankle. Can probably get this clean on lead if I'm ever back here

 
18 Probait - with Isaac, Emily Mixed trad 20m, 6
Matthew Creahan
being kind to the ankle

 
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - The Altar
27 McChurch Sport 9m, 4
Sian Zhang
25 variant.

 
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Diamond Harbour Crag
14 ~15 Dr March Sport 13m, 6 Good
Christa Dickson
Sketchy finish… definitely felt tougher than a 14

 
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
12 Chocolate Frog - with Jess Trad Average
Tom B
Black plague to left of CF. 2 bolts

 
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Panama Rock
18 ~19 The Milk Snatcher - with Sam Beattie Sport 22m, 8 Good
Felix Blanchard
A little wet

 
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
20 Easy Cheniv de Pierre Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
TG
Nice route. Middle section doesn't have much protection potential in the flaring crack so I placed see gear in the crack to the right.

 
19 ~20 Falaise Malaise Mixed trad 20m, 5 Very Good
TG
Great route! Felt harder than the Cheniv de Pierre to me. Would've been an onsight if I didn't grab the second draw to clip in a moment of mental weakness!

 
14 The Psychedelic Era Trad 20m Classic
TG
Great protection

 
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - The Altar
21 Randall the Horny Clergyman — 2 attempts Sport 11m, 4 Very Good
Afiq Avinesh
got sucked into resting on the knee bar and messed it up. Back down and did it again.

 
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Ōtepatotu
Main Cliff
16 Space Inflation Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Family day at Ote, getting kids up on ropes. This thing felt rather desperate with all the wet lichen, but still good fun.

 
14 ~15 N. S. U. Trad 20m Classic
David Jefferson
Easily one of the best trad routes I’ve done in Canterbury. The mantle at the top is spicy and awesome! The guidebook grade of 15 is at least believable, 14 is taking the piss.

 
Thu 18th May 2023 - The Altar
27 The Alter Boy — 2 attempts Sport 10m, 4 Classic
David Jefferson
Finally made all the moves, using some highly technical kneebar beta.

 
27 McChurch Sport 9m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Repeat hanging draws, did the easier right variation.

 
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Te Oka
25 French Connection — 3 attempts Sport 7 Very Good
David Jefferson
Three goes to sort out the beta at the crux, which for me involves a half pad mono. Felt quite stiff even at 25, and didn’t quite manage to get it done today.

 
25 Last Night of the Poms — 2 attempts Sport 18m, 5 Very Good
David Jefferson
Really interesting, technical climbing at this crag. This route is a gem and is rather airy at points. Well worth a look. My 100th grade 25!

 
Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Dragon Crags
Multi-pitch routes
18 Pioneer Ridge
1 17 25m Trad

Had a take at the steep crux. Stiff for the grade!

2 18 28m Second

Nice pitch, some commiting moves. Could easily be linked with pitch 3.

3 14 22m Second

Short and easy

4 18 25m Trad

Some delicate moves but easier than 18, more like 16 or 17?

5 13 15m Trad

Linked with the pitch below.

Mixed trad 120m, 33
TG
Note that dragon crags is on private land and the procedure on the climbnz page must be followed.

 
Sat 10th Dec 2022 - The Altar
20 Moroni's Blues Band — 3 attempts - with Leonardo Correa Sport 10m, 4 Classic
Marcelo Fernandes
Enjoyable one! Thanks Leo for the beta

 
23 Rasta's Revolution — 2 attempts - with Leonardo Correa Sport 11m, 5 Very Good
Marcelo Fernandes
Fun climb with tricky moves, it was a struggle

 
17 The Pulpit - with Leonardo Correa Sport 10m, 4 Good
Marcelo Fernandes
Interesting moves on this one

 
21 Thor's Hammer - with Leonardo Correa Sport 14m, 4 Very Good
Marcelo Fernandes
First 21 onsight!

 
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - The Altar
27 The Alter Boy - with Richard Flinn Sport 10m, 4 Classic
David Jefferson
The top is a lot harder than anticipated, but made all the moves today and some good links. Feels closer to the original grade of 29 for a punter like me!

 
21 Thor's Hammer - with Richard Flinn Sport 14m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Worth doing again and again.

 
Sat 8th Oct 2022 - The Altar
27 The Alter Boy - with Richard Flinn Sport 10m, 4 Classic
David Jefferson
Think I’ve got it figured out now, just need to return with more time and juice!

 
27 David and Goliath - with Richard Flinn Sport 10m, 4 Good
David Jefferson
Can do all the moves except for one, but unfortunately that one is nails!

 
21 Thor's Hammer - with Richard Flinn Sport 14m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
So fun.

 
20 Moroni's Blues Band - with Richard Flinn Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Awesome and bizarre!

 
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - The Altar
20 Holy Fatima Sport 9m, 3 Very Good
David Jefferson
Really fun, very traddy movement.

 
27 McChurch Sport 9m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Good to repeat this one, fun, powerful climbing.

 
27 The Alter Boy Sport 10m, 4 Classic
David Jefferson
Wet on top so no chance for a send today. Got a lot worked out though, just needs to dry out!

 
17 The Pulpit Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Repeat.

 
Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Peraki Valley
19 The Unholy Grail
1 17 25m
2 16 25m
3 19 25m
Sport 75m, 24
Xavier Ram
Grr, pitch 3

 
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - The Altar
20 Holy Fatima Sport 9m, 3
TG
Tricky steeply overhanging chimney. Felt harder than 20

 
20 Hindu Love Gods Sport 11m, 5
TG
Surprisingly pumpy

 
20 Moroni's Blues Band Sport 10m, 4
TG
New nemesis climb. Start is hard as nails, a desperate lunge for me.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 228 ascents.

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