Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Brasenose and Kaik | |||||||
Kaik Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Class Action — 2 attempts - with Richard Flinn | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun with varied and interesting climbing. Unfortunately it's let down a little by the loose blocks and associated gear placements between 8th and 9th bolts.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
12 ~14 | Totter | 11m, 4 | Average | ||||
Decent
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19 ~18 | ★ Binders Butter Beans | 12m, 7 | Average | ||||
Alright. Stick right to start
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16 ~17 | ★★ Medicinal champagne | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Varied moves with face climbing on slab to finish
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18 | ★★ Wharton’s Warple | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb with varied moves
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21 ~20 | ★★ London Lassitude | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Jugs over the lip then straight forward face climbing
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★ Jubilee - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After Sam's lead. Cool flare down low. Wet and dirty in the upper crack
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22 | ★★★ White Wizard - with Romain | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Back with more small cams. Recommend doubles from 0.1-1, single 2 & 3, and wires
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
Right Cliff | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Lamentations - with Romain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a good rock climb!
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Fantasy Factory | |||||||
17 | ★ Naming Rites | 28m | |||||
Great Route!
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18 | ★★ Short Cut to Mushrooms | 30m | |||||
Lead it on sight clean after pulling off a large hold which I was able hold for just enough time for my partner to get out of the way. Close call! I then down climbed and went back up and lead it. Felt a little harder than 18.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
21 ~20 | ★★ London Lassitude | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Boulder like start requiring upper body strength. Poor feet but jugs. Afterwards sustained but easier climbing
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15 ~16 | ★ Bowman | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Decent.
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14 Hard | ★ Rarified Atmosphere | 12m, 5 | Crap | ||||
Crap rock with some questionable blocks. Not enjoyable
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Crime of the Century | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Forgot my climbing shoes and seconded it in my approach shoes.
Pretty fun movement, lots of stemming. We decided to pitch on to the top which I wouldn't recommend. Another 1.5 pitches through gorse to get to the top and then a bit more gorse bashing to get to the lookout. Walked off the back and jogged down to the car to get out of the carpark by 5:30pm |
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - The Altar | |||||||
21 | ★★ Randall the Horny Clergyman - with Bo | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worked hard for this one, probably my hardest onsight
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20 | ★★ Holy Fatima — 2 attempts - with Bo | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great entertainment. Felt absolutely nails on the first go and pretty cruisy on the redpoint
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
13 Hard | ★★ Wanderer | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
most interesting 13 i have done
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19 | ★ Binders Butter Beans | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
so good
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11 | Short but Sturdy | 7m, 4 | Average | ||||
lots of rats around there I killed 2 but there are still more
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
13 | ★★ The Shoveller | 25m | |||||
nice protection, easy ledges to place gear, spicy final move nut really fun
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12 | Chocolate Frog | ||||||
This is pretty run out with loads of gorse and trees in crack. Just be aware. Take some big cams #4 or bigger.
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14 | ★★ The Psychedelic Era | 20m | |||||
Nice friendly graded lead. Most enjoyable
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Dragon Crags | |||||||
Multi-pitch routes | |||||||
17 | ★★ Middlemarch | 110m, 28 | |||||
Fantastic route. ended up rapping into the gully between the multi pitch routes and the and dragons tail as the walk off was not obvious. 2x raps used 2/60m ropes.
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
19 ~19 | ★★ London Lassitude - with Kyle, Richard Flinn, Simon, Emma Gulliver | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent climbing throughout. If only it could be a little longer. 19 or soft 20?
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | |||||||
★★ Unknown Corner - with Reg | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very good techy start.
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22 | ★★★ Friendzy - with Reg | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Epic roof!. I found the blocks at the base of the roof a bit scary (crowbar anyone?). A second #4 or a #5 would have been nice. Shortly after, Jacob had a big ground fall out of the initial fist crack, but survived with a few bruises and a broken totem.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Bygone Error | 25m, 4 | |||||
might've taken the wrong exit at the top.
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19 | ★★ Pleasant Interlude | ||||||
scary runnout above second bolt.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Coffin Rock | |||||||
16 | ★ The Undertaker | ★ Good | |||||
Reasonably sustained. Tricky and awkward at the crux getting through the slot.
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18 | ★★ Probait | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good. Almost a sport climb but a few pieces needed (just nuts would do)
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18 | ★★ Less Bang For Your Buck | 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb. Tricky slab moves at the bottom, then a steep and intimidating corner with good gear.
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20 | The Graveyard | 1 | Average | ||||
Was thankful for the bolt at the crux, it's desperate! A bit dirty and loose at the top.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Space Inflation | 20m, 5 | |||||
One climb then got rained off 😢
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19 ~20 | ★★ Pleasant Interlude | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Hard moves traversing the top section and topping out
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16 | ★★★ The Ultimate Horror | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of my favorites of the day!
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13 | ★★ The Shoveller | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such nice stemming moves and good protection
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14 | ★★ N. S. U. | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful route!
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★ Seismi City | 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nut retrieval duties
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16 | ★ Gorsegeous Groove | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Cam retrieval. Better than it looks, and the offwidth at the top is kinda cool
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17 | ★★ Voie Classique | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit heady and sustained in the bottom half, great climbing. Then gets a bit contrived and close to the 16 to the left at the top
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16 | ★★ Space Spirals. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awkward and tricky at the bottom. Nice climb
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19 | ★★ Pleasant Interlude | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Great climb with two cruxes. Runout in the middle and then a bit powerful up the final crack. Had Leos pre placed gear for most of it, which made the run out a little easier
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18 | ★★ Paradise Roof | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good protection apart from the start. Cool and well protected moves through the overhang then mega jugs to the top. Deserves more love!
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
21 ~19 | ★★ London Lassitude - with Ryan | 12m, 4 | |||||
19 on climbnz, feels about right
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | |||||||
19 | ★★ Monarch - with Felix | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome tricky groove and roof corner!
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | |||||||
18 ~20 | ★ Consequences - with Felix | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves up the arete and above. Got a little bit scared
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19 | ★★ Two Right Hands - with Felix | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Burly roof moves, fun!
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Banksy - with Grubbie | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A couple of mid size cams required to protect the upper headwall.
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22 | ★★ Falter - with Grubbie | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed on top rope. Protection looks sparse and thin.
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★ Dread Nought | 25m, 8 | |||||
Cam needed at the ledge I would say
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18 ~21 | ★★ Eliminator | 18m | |||||
Went for the direct variation which is supposedly 22
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Dragon Crags | |||||||
Multi-pitch routes | |||||||
18 ~17 | ★ Pioneer Ridge - with Marcus Kumar | 120m, 33 | ★ Good | ||||
Scrambly
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Dragon Crags | |||||||
Multi-pitch routes | |||||||
18 | ★ Pioneer Ridge | 120m, 33 | |||||
unless you you froth the fuck out of trad don't bother bringing your cams up just sling a single alpine around solid rock and that will do
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Fantasy Factory | |||||||
16 | ★★ Bitterfingers - with TG | 28m | |||||
Amazing route, great moves.
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18 | ★★ Short Cut to Mushrooms | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got it clean on top rope. Will be back to lead again
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16 | ★★ Bitterfingers | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Brilliant route.
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16 | ★★ Women's Weekly | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky chimney type moves through the roof, made harder by avoiding a loose jug. Fairly sustained bridging above.
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18 | ★★ Short Cut to Mushrooms — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux is very tricky, especially when you don't know where the holds are. Fell at the crux and ripped a cam, luckily the next one was bomber and I missed the ground (just!). Great route, with a few tricky bits up high too. Will be back!
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15 | ★★ Scabiosa arete | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hardest at the bottom in the bolted part then very easy once above the 4th bolt. Much less vegetated than Scabiosa
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Mount Bradley | |||||||
The Main Cliff | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Spring Fever - with Romain | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Desperate finger crack and bridging start into some interesting moves around the roofs. We added some new rope to the rap anchor at the Tōtara.
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19 Hard | ★ Cripple Crack - with Romain | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Aided an alt start to the right to avoid vegetation blocking the initial crack, quite dirty and slopey up high. If you head left into the chimney at 30m you can reach the Son of Hangman rap anchor. Don't walk off like we did, the gully is dense!
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22 | ★★★ White Wizard - with Romain | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Barely got off the ground, decided it was too late in the day/didn't have enough small cams (~#0.2 camalot). Route looks amazing
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17 Hard | ★★ Son of Hangman - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent bottom half. Save a #3 and #4 for the crack above the roof. Some new tat for the anchor would be a good idea
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17 Hard | ★★ Crime of the Century - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice bridging. The gear seemed pretty reasonable for the most part.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Coffin Rock | |||||||
23 | ★★ Tomb Raider - with Isaac, Emily | 20m, 4 | |||||
not being so kind to the ankle. Can probably get this clean on lead if I'm ever back here
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18 | ★★ Probait - with Isaac, Emily | 20m, 6 | |||||
being kind to the ankle
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - The Altar | |||||||
27 | ★★ McChurch | 9m, 4 | |||||
25 variant.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Diamond Harbour Crag | |||||||
14 ~15 | ★★ Dr March | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sketchy finish… definitely felt tougher than a 14
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
12 | Chocolate Frog - with Jess | Average | |||||
Black plague to left of CF. 2 bolts
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Panama Rock | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★ The Milk Snatcher - with Sam Beattie | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
A little wet
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
20 Easy | ★ Cheniv de Pierre | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route. Middle section doesn't have much protection potential in the flaring crack so I placed see gear in the crack to the right.
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19 ~20 | ★★ Falaise Malaise | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route! Felt harder than the Cheniv de Pierre to me. Would've been an onsight if I didn't grab the second draw to clip in a moment of mental weakness!
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14 | ★★ The Psychedelic Era | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great protection
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - The Altar | |||||||
21 | ★★ Randall the Horny Clergyman — 2 attempts | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
got sucked into resting on the knee bar and messed it up. Back down and did it again.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Ōtepatotu | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Space Inflation | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Family day at Ote, getting kids up on ropes. This thing felt rather desperate with all the wet lichen, but still good fun.
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14 ~15 | ★★ N. S. U. | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Easily one of the best trad routes I’ve done in Canterbury. The mantle at the top is spicy and awesome! The guidebook grade of 15 is at least believable, 14 is taking the piss.
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Thu 18th May 2023 - The Altar | |||||||
27 | ★★★ The Alter Boy — 2 attempts | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally made all the moves, using some highly technical kneebar beta.
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27 | ★★ McChurch | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat hanging draws, did the easier right variation.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Te Oka | |||||||
25 | ★★ French Connection — 3 attempts | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Three goes to sort out the beta at the crux, which for me involves a half pad mono. Felt quite stiff even at 25, and didn’t quite manage to get it done today.
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25 | Gear on ★★ Last Night of the Poms — 2 attempts | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really interesting, technical climbing at this crag. This route is a gem and is rather airy at points. Well worth a look. My 100th grade 25!
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Dragon Crags | |||||||
Multi-pitch routes | |||||||
18 |
★ Pioneer Ridge
1
17
25m
Had a take at the steep crux. Stiff for the grade!
2
18
28m
Nice pitch, some commiting moves. Could easily be linked with pitch 3.
3
14
22m
Short and easy
4
18
25m
Some delicate moves but easier than 18, more like 16 or 17?
5
13
15m
Linked with the pitch below. | 120m, 33 | |||||
Note that dragon crags is on private land and the procedure on the climbnz page must be followed.
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Sat 10th Dec 2022 - The Altar | |||||||
20 | ★★ Moroni's Blues Band — 3 attempts - with Leonardo Correa | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Enjoyable one! Thanks Leo for the beta
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23 | ★★ Rasta's Revolution — 2 attempts - with Leonardo Correa | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb with tricky moves, it was a struggle
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17 | ★★ The Pulpit - with Leonardo Correa | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting moves on this one
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21 | ★★ Thor's Hammer - with Leonardo Correa | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 21 onsight!
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - The Altar | |||||||
27 | ★★★ The Alter Boy - with Richard Flinn | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The top is a lot harder than anticipated, but made all the moves today and some good links. Feels closer to the original grade of 29 for a punter like me!
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21 | ★★ Thor's Hammer - with Richard Flinn | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Worth doing again and again.
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - The Altar | |||||||
27 | ★★★ The Alter Boy - with Richard Flinn | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Think I’ve got it figured out now, just need to return with more time and juice!
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27 | ★ David and Goliath - with Richard Flinn | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Can do all the moves except for one, but unfortunately that one is nails!
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21 | ★★ Thor's Hammer - with Richard Flinn | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
So fun.
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20 | ★★ Moroni's Blues Band - with Richard Flinn | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome and bizarre!
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - The Altar | |||||||
20 | ★★ Holy Fatima | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun, very traddy movement.
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27 | ★★ McChurch | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good to repeat this one, fun, powerful climbing.
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27 | ★★★ The Alter Boy | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wet on top so no chance for a send today. Got a lot worked out though, just needs to dry out!
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17 | ★★ The Pulpit | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat.
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Peraki Valley | |||||||
19 |
The Unholy Grail
1
17
25m
2
16
25m
3
19
25m
| 75m, 24 | |||||
Grr, pitch 3
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - The Altar | |||||||
20 | ★★ Holy Fatima | 9m, 3 | |||||
Tricky steeply overhanging chimney. Felt harder than 20
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20 | ★ Hindu Love Gods | 11m, 5 | |||||
Surprisingly pumpy
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20 | ★★ Moroni's Blues Band | 10m, 4 | |||||
New nemesis climb. Start is hard as nails, a desperate lunge for me.
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