Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Unknown | |||||||||
22 | ★★ Horace Has a Bricky Hiccup | 24m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Dec 2005 | ||||
went back next day to kick this climbs ass (3 shots, mixed)
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19 | The Underdog | Doctor's Point | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
20 | ★★ Babe Watch | Doctor's Point | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jun 2005 | |||||
14 | Intensive Care | Doctor's Point | Crap | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
14 | Fools Gold | 6m | Mapoutahi | Tue 15th Jan 2008 | |||||
19 | Limpet | Doctor's Point | Crap | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Brave Dash | 16m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | ||||
Would be nice with a bit of traffic. Needs a #4 and 5 up top, which were in the car.
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23 | ★ Cardboard Chaos | 16m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Fri 13th Apr 2018 | ||||
Pretty cool climb, dbf climbing at that point, never went for the lead.
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22 | ★★★ Pink Cadillac - with Helen Sinclair | 28m | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
Very interesting shallow corner and bridging moves
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23 | ★★ Killer Wail - with helen sinclair | 26m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Tue 8th Jan 2019 | ||||
first climb we did on the wall, some jamming
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23 | ★★ Via Magma - with helen sinclair | 40m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
22 | ★★★ It Always Ends In Tears - with helen sinclair | 26m | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | ||||
climbs mostly with right hand in the crack and left bear hugging the arete
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23 | ★★ Killer Wail | 26m | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Feb 2014 | ||||
23 | ★★ Seawitch | 25m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Wed 11th Jul 2012 | ||||
23 | ★★ Via Magma | 40m | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | ||||
1st pitch
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28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood | 20m | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Mar 2014 | ||||
great technical test piece
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20 | ★★ Babe Watch | Doctor's Point | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | ||||||
19 | Kaos | 18m | Mapoutahi | Average | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | ||||
20 | ★★ Babe Watch | Doctor's Point | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||||||
20 | ★ Al's Jam Crack | 24m | Lovers Leap | Sun 23rd Jan 2022 | |||||
22 | ★ Just the Tick-It - with Lisa Posse | 16m | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Mon 22nd Jan 2024 | ||||
20 | ★ Al's Jam Crack | 24m | Lovers Leap | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
23 | ★★ Killer Wail | 26m | Lovers Leap | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood — 2 attempts - with emma, oskar | 20m | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
Second session. Genius beta from Oskar, including sneaky heel hook at the crux! Installed two new rings at the anchor.
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28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood - with Owyn Aitken | 20m | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood - with Ben Mitchell | 20m | Lovers Leap | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | |||||
First session, pulled through the crux moved but the real challenge is probably linking all of the lower section
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21 Easy |
Wobblington Or Bust P1
- with
Finn Brown
1
| Doctor's Point | Crap | Sat 16th Mar 2024 | |||||
Sport climbing, choosy and sharp rock, legs so cut up they might need to be amputated...
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21 Easy |
Wobblington Or Bust P1
- with
Finn Brown
1
| Doctor's Point | Crap | Sat 16th Mar 2024 | |||||
Even worse.
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22 | ★★★ It Always Ends In Tears | 26m | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Mar 2024 | ||||
Such a good route
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22 | ★★★ Pink Cadillac | 28m | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Mar 2024 | ||||
A touch easier than IAEIT but a few slightly more awkward moves. Very cool. Kinda a shame there are so many bolts on the lower wall?
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Trad | |||||||||
22 | ★ Strenophobia / Xenophobia | 25m, 10 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Average | Fri 13th Apr 2018 | ||||
Absolute sand bag if iv'e ever climbed one!! It must be a local joke to watch tourists kick the wall. When you think the steep start and two digit pocket crux was hard, think again, the top is a joke. Laughed hysterically at my tantrums once lowered to the ground.
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22 | ★ Strenophobia / Xenophobia - with Tony Burnell | 25m, 10 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | ||||
A hard onsight and a fairly committing route, especially in the allegedly “easy” middle section. A fall here would not be pleasant.
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25 | ★★★ Parallel Universe | 31m, 10 | Lovers Leap | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Parallel Universe - with Eugene Yeo | 31m, 10 | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | ||||
Yes! A cosmic phenomenon indeed
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22 | ★ Strenophobia / Xenophobia | 25m, 10 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★ Good | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
19 | ★ Tainted Love | 30m, 7 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 23 | ★★ VW - Long And Winding Road (Long And Winding Road) | 42m, 7 | Lovers Leap | Sun 23rd Feb 2014 | |||||
22 | Slime And Sediment | 15m, 7 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 3rd Apr 2021 | |||||
22 | Slime And Sediment | 15m, 7 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 3rd Apr 2021 | |||||
23 |
★★ VW - Long And Winding Road P1
- with
emma, oskar
| 42m, 7 | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
One of my favourites climbs, here or anywhere! Love the acute corner, side pulls and lack of feet holds. And a crack that continuously opens and fuses as you go!
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23 |
★★ VW - Long And Winding Road P1
- with
Ben Mitchell
1
| 42m, 7 | Lovers Leap | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | |||||
23 | ★★ VW - Long And Winding Road - with Eugene Yeo | 42m, 7 | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | ||||
14 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Tue 15th Jan 2008 | |||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | ||||
Nice stemming
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18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Tue 4th Dec 2012 | |||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Mar 2013 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Wed 24th Jul 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Sun 25th Aug 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Oct 2020 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Nov 2020 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Tue 17th Nov 2020 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Mon 21st Dec 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | ||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Tue 16th Jan 2024 | |||||
18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | Mapoutahi | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 23rd Jul 2009 | ||||
Awesome climb at one of my favourite crags!
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22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | ||||
Yay, not so much jamming
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22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th May 2018 | ||||
The moderate classic, with a crux right at the top. Gear is kind of funky at the start if you climb the corner from the ground
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22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | Sun 23rd Jan 2022 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Side Effect - with Lisa Posse | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Mon 22nd Jan 2024 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | Lovers Leap | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | |||||
18 | ★★ Heiti Heiti Kahikatoa | 25m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Jul 2009 | ||||
makes "on edge" @ piddo feel like a rung ladder!!
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18 | ★★ Heiti Heiti Kahikatoa | 25m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
I've climbed this route maybe 1/2 dozen times and my only suggestion is to be very aware of the state of the rock above the route!! Needs an eartquake or similar to clean it up (or down!).
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22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Apr 2004 | ||||
wow, totally sweet moves, exposure and run outs!
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22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★ Good | Mon 7th Nov 2011 | ||||
not to bad..
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20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker - with jason | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Feb 2016 | ||||
nice diverse climbing. traverse, crack, compression...
I enjoyed it!
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22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Thu 24th Mar 2016 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment - with Todd Herriott | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Jan 2017 | ||||
Sick route! Fell clipping before the chockstone jug, but doubt I would have been able to finish it off, I was torched. Really nice climbing
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20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Average | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | ||||
20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 15th Sep 2012 | |||||
Almost onsight. Had to send it clean again from the start.
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20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 7th Jul 2012 | |||||
Almost onsight. Had to send it clean again from the start.
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22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Jul 2012 | ||||
scary
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20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Sep 2013 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Crap | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | ||||
Honestly a rubbish route.
Run-out is stupidly dangerous for no reason, the slab climbing at the top is just ridiculous, overall shite climb
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22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment - with Kyle | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Oct 2021 | ||||
20 | ★ Freddy Fudpucker | 23m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 30th Oct 2021 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Mar 2022 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||
24 |
★ Wicked Corner
1
21
2
24
| 28m, 4 | Lovers Leap | ★ Good | Mon 25th Mar 2024 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Crime And Punishment | 32m, 4 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Call Me Wanker | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2005 | ||||
18 | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Wed 9th Jan 2008 | |||||
16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Sep 2005 | ||||
16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Feb 2011 | ||||
fun, fun, fun; dyno to start, stretchy through the middle, then a mantle to finish
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16 | ★ Keeping On The Straight And Narrow | 27m, 3 | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Feb 2011 | ||||
Very nice climb. Felt a bit harder than the average 16.
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