Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Kinloch Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||||
23 Easy | ★ Tricks of the Dad — 2 attempts | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | Mon 6th Nov 2023 | ||||
bouldery, good sequence... could do with being longer 😂
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23 Easy | ★ Tricks of the Dad - with Alex Popinga, Chris Hailey | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
After watching Chris try the moves for the first time and place a temporary anchor by slinging a tree, I tried to flash this. Did the first hard moves up to the layback in the crack. But I couldn't clip the second bolt from low in the crack and wasn't confident enough to build up feet and go for a higher hold.
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23 Easy | ★ Tricks of the Dad - with Alex Popinga, Chris Hailey | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
After watching Chris get the FA, I had the confidence to go for the final move of the first boulder problem. Basically it is a 4-5 move boulder problem to the second bolt clipping position and another couple of moves to the anchor. Extremely short, but quite fun. #2ndGo
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21 | ★★ Dealers Choice | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
Wish it was 20m longer... nice juggy overhanging climbing, probably a good warm up for some of the harder stuff
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21 | ★★ Dealers Choice - with Chris Hailey | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
21 | ★★ Dealers Choice — 2 attempts | 10m, 3 | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||||
19 | ★★ Face Down - with Marnus | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
Nice face climbing for a short route
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19 | ★★ Face Down - with Chris Hailey | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★ Face Down | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Tue 6th Jun 2017 | |||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | |||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | |||||
warm up
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Sammy Potter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
noice
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Chris Hailey | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Chris Hailey | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Chris Hailey | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Warm up
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Alexei Drummond | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Fairly fun and funky moves for a 17 - good warmup!
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | ||||
Nice route, kept me thinking more than I thought it would. Gave it a bit of a brush on the way down.
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | ||||
Repeat
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17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | |||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Tue 19th Oct 2021 | |||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with Sandy H | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 18th May 2022 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 6 | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | |||||
17 | ★★ Fire Starter - with gsmizz | 15m, 6 | Wed 21st Dec 2022 | |||||
Re-warm-up after the walk in. Maybe a little harder as some holds were quite wet. But fun movement
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16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 6th Jun 2017 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | |||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | ||||
warm up
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16 | ★ Fire Brigade - with Chris Hailey | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 6 | Average | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | ||||
Warm up.
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16 | ★ Fire Brigade - with Iris | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | ||||
Good warm up. More balance than pulling moves. A few tricky spots but nothing out of the grade.
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16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Tue 19th Oct 2021 | |||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | |||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | |||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade - with Sandy H | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Crap | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
Fun start and nice little slab. But terrible top section and horrible to clean. Would be much nicer if anchors were 2 bolts lower maybe
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16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | |||||
16 | ★ Fire Brigade | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | ||||
22 | ★★ Just Another F.A. - with Tom | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | ||||
Burly start. I escaped right just before the top; not entirely keen on the birds' nest of gear I had for the direct finish.
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26 | ★★ Maximus Boltus (Closed Project 2) | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | ||||
Really funky moves at the start goes through to some steep stuff. Long moves on smallish to big holds. Some bolts to move but this one should go down tomorrow.
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26 | ★★ Maximus Boltus - with Alexei Drummond | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Really enjoyed this one, funky start moves then a few tricky moves, good rest. Step left to side pull then undercling. Game on through the next few moves of steep punchy climbing. Took ages to clean and had a bit of a mission getting bolts in the right place but it worked out in the end
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26 | ★★ Maximus Boltus | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2020 | ||||
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26 | ★★ Maximus Boltus | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Nov 2022 | ||||
Good climbing with a nice boulder involving a move off a 2-finger undercling pinch in the middle of the face (where you traverse out left from the rest jugs).
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26 | ★★ Maximus Boltus - with Alex Popinga, Chris Hailey | 25m, 12 | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | |||||
Nice and varied. It felt great to be able to do basically all the individual moves on this. Linking them together would be very hard as the crux move was limit for me and you are on your arms as soon as you leave the ledge.
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26 | ★★★ Climb Against Humanity | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | ||||
Actually a really good line, solid rock and power endurance after the awkward start of chapel.
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26 | ★★★ Climb Against Humanity - with Samuel Malan, Chris Hailey | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Super fun power endurance route. Had to give it a few goes to dial beta, managed to get it withing 24 hours of first attempt (over two days). Very cool moves with a good variation of holds types.
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27 26 | ★★ Chapel of Ghouls | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | ||||
ticked it on the second attempt today, took the resting spots and had all the moves dialled. Really tempted to call this one 28 but I think with the rests you get its not sustained enough even though some of the individual moves are up there!!! Massive Sandbag at 26 but think it could be missing some holds as the traverse crux is actually not the "crux" 😂 One of the best routes Ive climbed in NZ well worth your time but expect a bouldery 27!!!
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26 | ★★ Chapel of Ghouls | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
27 26/27 | ★★★ Chapel of Roof | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Oct 2020 | ||||
Hard line through boulder moves then had to fight the fatigue and pump through the roof, great link up no idea about the grade can someone come and confirm how it feels please
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
first day of working it, comes down to a hard boulder problem then easy climbing up to the roof and a 23/24 through the roof. Bit of a skin destroyer and the traverse in from right to the crux could be better as a direct. More scoping out tomorrow and try to get the boulder move worked out.
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
Its all coming together!!! jugged up to the anchors to clean the top, scrubbed for 40 mins and revealed the top out to be a casual 18 hahaha however the crux at the bottom is still where the money is at. Made progress sticking the first move of the crux every time I make it but now need to have skin and power left to release and hit the jug. Should go down like this
easy start into V4/5 boulder (clips 4/5) into a V8/9 boulder (to clip 6) into 21 climbing to the roof then a V4/5 boulder getting into and out of the roof, 18 to the top. ooooosh.... coming together and will spend the week training re growing skin read to return on saturday and throw myself at it again.
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Oct 2020 | ||||
Still working and tweaking beta, crux is solid!!!
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28 | ★ Head Shot — 2 attempts | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Mon 6th Nov 2023 | ||||
made some progress on attempt one, can hold positions I couldn't last time but attempt 2 was cooked by the sun... I should have known better than to try this on an afternoon with no skin 🤦♂️
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | ||||
an absolute wrestling match and probably the stiffest out of the 24s at K2... onsite attempt felt like it could be 25/26 then the send felt like a hard 24... Brilliant route
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board - with Alex Popinga | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | ||||
Did not expect to flash this for the first climb of the day.
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | ||||
Placing draws
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board - with Salty Plum | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2022 | ||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
Extend bolt 4 (the one before the zag to the right) to reduce drag.
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | Fri 26th Apr 2013 | |||||
2nd Go
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24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | |||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
24 | ★★ Man Over Board — 2 attempts | 25m, 9 | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||||
Beautiful route with lots of variety
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25 | ★★★ Escape From Tartarus | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | ||||
Ticked this one second go today, needed a bolt moved and some more cleaning so now its all gooooooood!!! Great moves with a crux on a crimp to high left hand Gaston then some jugs and then balance it through the final sequence. Mint!!!
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25 | ★★★ Escape From Tartarus | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2020 | ||||
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23 24 | ★★ Tartarus | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
Bolted yesterday, sent first attempt this morning. incredible route and exactly what I wanted. Sustained until the very end. needs some traffic as there is are a few chossy foot holds at the bottom, soon as you're through the conglomerate the rock is primo!!! spicy finish, look for the crimp just below the last bolt 😃 got pumped!!! not sure of the grade, I think I might be sandbagging it at 23 🤷♂️
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24 | ★★ Tartarus | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | ||||
did some laps of this one today to enjoy the moves and look at some of the suggestions ive had. For the last bolt climb past it or extend the last draw. I may move the bolt but didn't have time today. The start got a decent cleaning but there may still be some feet that are chossy. Apart from that its pretty solid in the conglomerate now and is a great climb!!!
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24 | ★★ Tartarus | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
Onsite/flash/first go didn’t know any beta but did man overboard and might have seen a vid at some stage
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24 | ★★ Tartarus | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | ||||
Probably the best route at the crag, technical moves followed by some power endurance and a pretty damn fine mono!!! made all the moves on rope solo then managed on a hang. Hopefully send tomorrow.
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28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Dec 2020 | ||||
Second day on this one, gave it one decent burn but had to dial the crux moves in some more and thinning skin meant ill give this some better burns another day. Think its probably harder than 27 🤔
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28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Dec 2020 | ||||
First Shot didn't set the mono right so jumped off, second shot holds were spooging!!! had this one wrapped up and still had plenty of beans but slipped off the last hold before the jugs to the top. Do not try to climb this one in the sun!!! after 12:00 it was almost unclimbable. get to the crag at 7-8am to wrap climbing by lunch if you want to have a good time on it.
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28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st May 2021 | ||||
Great line.
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28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★ Good | Mon 25th Apr 2022 | ||||
Hard boulder problems on a rope. Fell of a couple of times just before the easy bit as ran out of gas! Harder than any of the 27s I've done
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25 24/25 | ★★★ Arm-aggedon - with Marnus | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Excellent sustained climbing probably 25 might be easier due to no "hard" moves or harder if you don't have any endurance 🤔 Would be happy to get some different perspectives on the grade, great route!!!
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. (Project Priapism. (RH Line)) | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Dec 2020 | ||||
Almost fit enough to send it. 2 goes today before it got too hot. All the moves done. Next time
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2020 | ||||
One of the best lines at the crag, great to see Martyn tick this one then nab a second ascent.
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Dec 2020 | ||||
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Jan 2021 | ||||
One of the best routes I've jumped on! Sustained climbing on slight overhang with a few good rests. Managed the crux at the top fairly easily with a different beta. Psyched to come back and send this!
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | ||||
Finally ticked this one off after nearly 10 attempts across 3-4 sessions, falling off the last move multiple times. Fair to say my Priapism is cured.
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. - with Chris Hailey, Samuel Malan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | ||||
Very happy about this send. Wonderful climb, very fun and pumpy.
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Jan 2022 | ||||
warm up... sick line!!!
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25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st May 2022 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Nov 2022 | ||||
24 | ★★★ The New Black | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | ||||
Awesome. Beutiful route that has everything. Just gave it one try after finishing Eat The Meat, no time and power left for RP but I'll come back just for this. One of the nicest routes I ever climbed on rock.
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24 | ★★★ The New Black | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | ||||
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24 | ★★★ The New Black | 30m, 10 | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||||
24 | ★★★ The New Black | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | ||||
still a great outing... Crux was a lot easier than I remember... oh no... now I know how to read rock better and actually when I did it last time my beta was s**t... and hard 😂
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24 | ★★★ The New Black | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | ||||
Bumbled the mantle on-site 2nd go I think
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