Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V12 | |||||||||
V12 Easy | ★★★ Witness my Fitness | 11m | The Airstrip | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||||
This is definitely a soft 12 due to the rest.
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V11 | |||||||||
V11 | ★★ The Line of Fitness | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jun 2023 | |||||
Hard. The extension is gonna be really hard.
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V10 | |||||||||
V10 Hard | ★★★ Architexture — 7 attempts | 5m | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Jan 2023 | ||||
got about two or three moves from the standing start
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V10 Hard | ★★ Days Well Spent - The Wheel of Waitomo Variation — 3 attempts | 11m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Feb 2023 | ||||
Took 3 sessions
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V10 | ★★★ A Wrinkle in Time | 6m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
Very frustrating. I keep falling at the last two moves.
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V10 | ★★★ A Wrinkle in Time — 3 attempts - with Ashkan | 6m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | ||||
Did not go well due to wet holds.
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V10 | ★★★ A Wrinkle in Time | 6m | The Airstrip | Thu 30th Nov 2023 | |||||
Finally. This is a solid 10, but not as hard as The Line of Fitness V11. Too many tries.
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V10 | ★★★ Architexture | 5m | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th May 2024 | ||||
Quality
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V9 | |||||||||
V9 | ★★★ Wave of Echoes | The Airstrip | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Mar 2021 | |||||
Amazing climb. Should have tried this a long time ago. Next session.
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V9 | ★★★ Wave of Echoes | The Airstrip | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th May 2022 | |||||
3rd go. Thanks to Henry Booker for the beta.
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V9 | ★★ Savage Alfresco — 6 attempts - with Marco Lefebvre, Travis Rangi | 4m | The Airstrip | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||||
Got the first half of the climb but the throw to the jug feels very hard!
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V9 | ★★ Savage Alfresco - with Marnus, Chris Hailey, Ryan Yang, Jesse Homburg | 4m | The Airstrip | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
One attempt today, but better than last time. Holds were quite dry compared to the rest of the routes in the cave
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V9 | ★★ Savage Alfresco — 4 attempts - with Jono | 4m | The Airstrip | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
Got a bit of progress but still far from the send. The wettest day in Waitomo!
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V9 | ★★ Furiosa — 3 attempts | 11m | The Airstrip | ★ Good | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||
its long...
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V9 | ★★ The Wheel of Waitomo Variation Lite — 2 attempts - with Marco Lefebvre | 11m | The Airstrip | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | |||||
two good tries today, the deep start was very wet today, couldn't pull
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V9 | ★★ Savage Alfresco — 5 attempts - with Marco Lefebvre | 4m | The Airstrip | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | |||||
worked on the crux move couple of times. I'm getting there
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V9 | ★ Fusion | Blowhard Bush | ★ Good | Sun 17th Dec 2023 | |||||
Time for the extension
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30 | |||||||||
29 30 | ★★ Built to Last | 20m, 6 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jun 2010 | ||||
First 30
Very pleased! gunning for maddog hine next
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30 | ★★★ Burning Man | 20m, 13 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Feb 2016 | ||||
One of the most unique lines I have done. Technically challenging and just a lot of fun.
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30 | ★★★ Burning Man - with Honza | 20m, 13 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | ||||
Two attempts, started the hard bit. The first half is fun wrestling with lots of jamming and kneebars at grade 24ish
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30 | ★★★ Snake Oil | 14m, 9 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2020 | ||||
end of the day went to check the moves, few hard moves in the middle after watching the beta vid seems no harder than Gastonberry. excited to get back on this one
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30 | ★★★ Burning Man - with Justin | 20m, 13 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Feb 2021 | ||||
Just dogging the easy bits....
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29 30 | Zillmerised | 6m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
Climbed via sneakeasy for 29
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30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jan 2023 | ||||
started dialling the bottom section back in, top the same as coma so will go as soon as I get the flow on the bottom.
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30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 3 attempts | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | ||||
ooosh... another punt off the top of a route 😂
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30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jan 2023 | ||||
An awesome line!!! Harder than coma with the start adding to the power endurance... I got both pumped and powered out and nearly dropped it a few times
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30 | ★★★ Snake Oil — 2 attempts | 14m, 9 | White Falls | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Mar 2023 | ||||
First proper days back on this line this season and all the moves felt way better than last year. Only fired off one proper attempt at it on Sunday but the knee bar was wet and slipped out, dried off and went to the top... Feels close but you never know 😂
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30 | ★★★ Snake Oil — 2 attempts | 14m, 9 | White Falls | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
Started this battle long ago... Didnt give it much thought this year until last weekend when I hopped back on and realised it was ready to go... first go today froze... second go ✅ Im not quite sure how the crux stuck as I improvised new beta 😂 the rest was the battle I deserved and I finally got my draws back... Thanks for reading... the video will be up some day soon... The End.
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29/30 | |||||||||
29/30 ~30 | ★★ Open Project - with Ryan Yang | 10m, 5 | Maratoto | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
It would climb really well, holds look and feel manufactured.
Hard ASF.
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V8 | |||||||||
V10 V8 | ★★ Ruby Sparks | 3m | Stony Batter | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | ||||
Soft
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V8 | ★★ Mosquito Monkeys | 5m | Ngahere Drive | Wed 19th Feb 2020 | |||||
Not really clear what starting holds were used on the original ascent. If you use the crack to the right to start the grade is a lot easier (e.g. V5/6). I have added this as a variant
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V8 | ★★ Furiosa's Better half - with Marco Lefebvre, Ali Vaughan | 10m | The Airstrip | Sun 18th Sep 2022 | |||||
I had two successful go on this long route and both times passed the Power Puku and stuck at the crux of Frank's Better Half. I needed more power endurance to finish the climb
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V8 | ★★★ Wazzup | 3m | The Airstrip | Sat 5th Nov 2022 | |||||
Soft
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V8 | ★★★ Crucifix | 4m | The Airstrip | Thu 10th Nov 2022 | |||||
Felt so hard!
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V8 | ★★ The Girdle | Turakirae Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Feb 2023 | |||||
insansely tiring, basically a sport route at this point
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V8 | ★★ Dirty Furiosa - with Marco Lefebvre, Ali Vaughan | 10m | The Airstrip | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||||
Felt super tired!
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V8 | ★★ Dirty Furiosa — 4 attempts | 10m | The Airstrip | Sun 12th Mar 2023 | |||||
I had four good attempts on this, with no flaw in the execution of moves this time but I think I lack power endurance. Hopefully, it will go next session. Good training day!
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V8 | ★★ Dirty Furiosa - with Marco Lefebvre, Travis Rangi | 10m | The Airstrip | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||||
1stGo. Finally sent this climb in my 6th session with more than 18th attempts. Very stoked!
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V8 Easy | ★★ Perverse-alina — 2 attempts | 6m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Aug 2023 | ||||
Seemed harder than the other 7/8
(Cave Jam) The deep start gives it difficulty and power endurance over the other links. Could be another 7... Let the repeats commence!!!!
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V8 | ★★ Dancing In The Dark — 2 attempts | 7m | The Airstrip | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||||
Brilliant Line. V7 into V7 can't be another hard V7 can it? 😂 maybe 🤔
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V8 | ★★ Perverse-alina — 2 attempts - with Chris Hailey, Marco Lefebvre | 6m | The Airstrip | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||||
LastGo of the day. Pretty cooked for this climb!
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V8 Easy | ★ Franks Better Start — 2 attempts | 8m | The Airstrip | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
I think its about time we just give these sport climbing grades 😂
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V8 | ★ Franks Better Start — 5 attempts - with Chris Hailey, Marco Lefebvre | 8m | The Airstrip | Wed 13th Sep 2023 | |||||
Great hard variation of Frank's Route. Stoked to get this line with Chris Hailey
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V8 | ★★★ Deep Leon | 7m | The Airstrip | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
Harder than Dirty Leon but not by much, if you have the deep start figured it's probably the same grade. great line!!!
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V8 | ★★★ Deep Leon — 2 attempts - with Chris Hailey | 7m | The Airstrip | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||||
Awesome line! again I knew this line by heart but connecting three different lines together was a great challenge for me. Very powerful, you get really pumped in each attempt. Recommended!
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V8 | ★★ Dirty Leon | 5m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
Fun line
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V8 | ★★ Perverse-alina — 2 attempts - with Chris Hailey | 6m | The Airstrip | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||||
I had another go on this, but not fresh! I fell on the very last move! Damn!
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V8 | ★★ Dirty Furiosa | 10m | The Airstrip | Sun 22nd Oct 2023 | |||||
worth the effort, some power endurance but not as hard as Furiosa
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V8 Easy | ★★ Perverse-alina | 6m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Nov 2023 | ||||
First go.
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V8 | ★★ Dancing In The Dark | 7m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Nov 2023 | ||||
Great addition to the cave from Chris Hailey. First go, but can't call it a flash.
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V8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Dirty Dancing Extension | 6m | The Airstrip | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Nov 2023 | ||||
First go.
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V8 | ★★ Black Hole Sun — 3 attempts - with Murray | Wairere Boulders | Fri 22nd Mar 2024 | ||||||
I had 3 goes on this today, but I was a bit tired after sending Minecraft. Will be back for it.
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29 | |||||||||
29 | ★ Maddog Hine | 20m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 18th Jul 2010 | ||||
A big effort 5th go of the day with cramping arms
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Jan 2012 | ||||
second ascent.
Cool climb with a hard crux, supper cool leg kicking beta from FM. I also fell of the top section once, guttering!
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29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect | 10m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 19th Jan 2012 | ||||
Fun climb! a bit of endurance, some tension, a little no hands action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p6UIEDBuc8&feature=related #2go
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2019 | ||||
Dogged the route 3 times today working out the moves, turns out the beta vids are pretty useless for the move before the crux as there is a hold missing. On my final session of the day I worked a low cross into a Gaston pinch then a big move to hit the smile... feels nails but stoked to have made all the movers in the first day.
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Second day and 4th go working it and managed to make some foot adjustments and dial the crux move a bit more, high foot for the crux throw worked great but 2 days on this and im wrecked... rest day tomorrow then back at it. managed to work out the best part of the smile finger "jug" and how to clip the draw from it.
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Dec 2019 | ||||
still working on being able to clip from the smile and making the crux. don't feel closer but know what I need to work on to make this happen
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | ||||
Great to work this with Alex, found the key crimp to be a pinch and made the crux move feel a bit better, clipped the crux draw a few times... This one is coming together end of the season goals!!!
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Dec 2020 | ||||
First weekend back on it, new beta worked for the bottom section to the smile which flows but does end in a cut or a bit of an awkward heel. never the less it works and sets me up for the crux without being too gassed. The crux move feels more doable than last year, can make the kick out every time and the drop knee but I need to micro beta the feet... The kick out needs to go about 5cm to the left and ill be ready to send. 70 seconds of climbing to get this thing 😆
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Dec 2020 | ||||
done in a single hang, finally have the beta sorted and ready for send burns
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29 | ★★★ Gastonberry | 9m, 7 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
done and done... 13 sessions to get done, but now its done done.
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29 | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Mar 2021 | ||||
Probably one of the best routes ive been on in NZ, all the moves went down on the first working go now to start reappoint attempts and gain some fitness on it before the end of the season 😂
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29 | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | ||||
Second day on it and powered out, looking forward to jumping on it fresh next weekend
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29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures | 15m, 8 | White Falls | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
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29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect | 10m, 7 | White Falls | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
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29 | ★★ Kakarot Power | 15m, 7 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | ||||
Sharp or maybe just second day with weak skin, cool pogo move that I couldn't do on the first go but will come back with more skin.
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28 29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect | 10m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Mar 2022 | ||||
Second day working on this one, Got it 4th try today with a decent amount of animal noises
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29 | ★★★ Minor Threat | 8m, 4 | Waipari | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
Had to come back for the send after doing all the moves a couple weeks back with Kristov and Rowin.
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29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma — 3 attempts | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jan 2023 | ||||
Blew the top section... should be happy with the high point but it was so close!!! 😂 next go?
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29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | ||||
great line except that first hold 😂
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29 ~29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect — 2 attempts | 10m, 7 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Feb 2023 | ||||
On a wet hung over day I decided to do the real version with the coma crux... Far better than the weak sauce knee bars, I feel like a real boy now 😂
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29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture - with Justin Wimmer | 12m | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | ||||
Wet rock but great to jump on and figure out the moves, just need some better beta for reversing the coma crux.
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29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures - with Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | ||||
Excellent moves after the start 😂 same top as coma, felt same difficulty as coma maybe slightly easier 🤔
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29 | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | ||||
v cool climb
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29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures — 3 attempts | 15m, 8 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | ||||
confident this would have gone today if the holds were dry... wet feet and hands at the crux... still did it with a 1 hang... next session I will bring a leaf blower 😂
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29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures — 2 attempts | 15m, 8 | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | ||||
Hard boulder followed by an epic thug fest to the end, I found the bottom boulder to be pretty intense, similar difficulty to coma imo, 2 more line from this start before I get to move on 😂
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29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture | 12m | White Falls | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | ||||
Overall about the same as crooked imo... thought reversing the coma crux was going to be far harder than it actually is. should go with some connies next session 🤙
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29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture — 2 attempts | 12m | White Falls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Apr 2023 | ||||
Really good climb... I even started to enjoy the bottom crux. The top just keeps giving it to you with no rest 😂 Great power endurance line found this one harder than Coma tbh
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29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma - with Tom Buckett, Chris Hailey | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Feb 2024 | ||||
Somehow managed to finesse my way up this incredible line. No weak sauce beta of course.
Had a play on it last year and was immediately drawn to it. 5 solid sessions. |
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28 | |||||||||
27 | Fly | 2 | Mangaokewa | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||||
One for the future.
Just soloed up to the first big jug. |
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28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th May 2010 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Double Leaning Jowler | 20m, 7 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2010 | ||||
Beta intensive. lots of tries
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28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2019 | ||||
Dogged twice to dial the moves, made all the moves now just need to string it together. Made one good attempt but jumped off after the 1st crux due to skin rippage. After a few attempts I was done!!!
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | Kinloch | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
first day of working it, comes down to a hard boulder problem then easy climbing up to the roof and a 23/24 through the roof. Bit of a skin destroyer and the traverse in from right to the crux could be better as a direct. More scoping out tomorrow and try to get the boulder move worked out.
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | Kinloch | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
Its all coming together!!! jugged up to the anchors to clean the top, scrubbed for 40 mins and revealed the top out to be a casual 18 hahaha however the crux at the bottom is still where the money is at. Made progress sticking the first move of the crux every time I make it but now need to have skin and power left to release and hit the jug. Should go down like this
easy start into V4/5 boulder (clips 4/5) into a V8/9 boulder (to clip 6) into 21 climbing to the roof then a V4/5 boulder getting into and out of the roof, 18 to the top. ooooosh.... coming together and will spend the week training re growing skin read to return on saturday and throw myself at it again.
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28 | ★ Head Shot (Dan's Project) | 30m, 13 | Kinloch | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Oct 2020 | ||||
Still working and tweaking beta, crux is solid!!!
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28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | ||||
Gave it some skin to re figure the moves and beta, feels way easier than a year ago, should go in the next session
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28 | ★ Retaillack - with Chris Hailey | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Mar 2021 | ||||
Repeat . Closer to 26 than 28 imo
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28 | ★ Retaillack | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★ Good | Sun 21st Mar 2021 | ||||
Start on the wet hold, finish on the wet holds... some holds not wet in the middle 😂
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28 | Down To Earth - with Edwin Sheppard | 14m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
. |
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28 | Plumley Walker | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | ||||||
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28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
Pretty happy this ones done... only 4 days of effort though so not toooooo bad... Not that hard when its dialled
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28 | ★★ Valhalla | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Dec 2021 | ||||
So stoked Valhalla went down in 3 sessions.
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28 | ★★★ Louder - with Reece Deacon | 15m, 5 | Waipari | Sat 26th Feb 2022 | |||||
bit of sentamental value here, after watching someone do it when I first stared climbing, stock to join the 28 club... any ideas on what next ?
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28 | ★★★ Louder - with Travis Rangi | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Feb 2022 | ||||
Stoked to get this as my first 28, all super nice powerful moves, put it down waaay faster than anticipated, 5th tie in overall. Absolute send train with Travis cruising up it right after me.
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28 | ★★★ Double Leaning Jowler - with Tom Burfoot | 20m, 7 | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Mar 2022 | ||||
All free to the last bolt, will need to dial in the last section. feels long and hard, definitely one awesome route. Reece Deacon definitely get on this, Rowin Chendriah your style man
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28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||
Travis Rangi Thanks for inspiring me to try this. I can finally sleep at night
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28 | ★ Retaillack | 12m, 8 | White Falls | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2022 | ||||
Stoked as to get this in a single session! Fell off the second move and got the biggest flapper of my life, but cheers to the boys for telling me to just tape it up and get on with it. Went down on the next attempt! Sorry if there's blood up there now 😅
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28 | ★★ Back From the Web - with Dali, Stu Fu | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | |||||
Took 3 sessions all up. It did not look pretty but happy it went down. Took a lot of effort to work out the sequence through the roof but the dyno move feels great when you stick it. Would be a classic if the top slab wasn't so caked with mud.
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