Routes as boulder in Te Tai Tokerau / Northland

tart matched in the left channel. Reach across to the right channel then top out there.

Obvious slightly overhanging arete you can see from the road. Nice ear hand hold halfway up climb.

Match on the corner of the wall and climb the arete. There are good jugs once you reach the middle of the climb.

Sit start. Match on the jug in the large crack. Head straight up with a big move and then follow the nice holds to the left.

Sit start on slightly overhanging arete.

Stand start. Match on the large flat hold. Head left to top out at the horn.

Start by matching your hands on the rail while smearing on the wall. Match on the second rail in the middle, then go for the big jug on the left and finish the climb.

Start by matching your hands on the trail while smearing on the wall. Take the left pull and use the good jugs to climb the rock.

Match on the broken pinch and head up and right.

Sit start matched low in the crack. Throw up to a pinch then traverse left along a nice series of crimps.

Left hand variant to Mosquito Monkeys, starts 1m left of the arete on small edges to layaways before rejoining the arete and better holds

Easier RH sit start using crack and edge on RH side of arete for first move

Very slabby. All feet. Start with right hand in the pocket.

Quite slabby feet climb. Big jug at the top on the right.

Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete.

Sit start with a left side pull and a right crimp. Head straight up to the horn. This climb is just up the hill from Eugene.

Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove.

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Climb the arête using the least sharp holds you can find finishing up the slightly overhanging face.

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Sit start. Use the juggy arête out left and the crack out right to work your way up. Finish up and left.

Sit start matched on the seam and go for the top.

SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete.

Sit start matched on prominent juggy crack down and right. Move out left to traverse along seam and top out. Avoid topping out early - try to get to the left end of the seam before topping out.

Problem is located to the left of Butternut, down the embankment.

Start with each hand on an undercling. Head right to the sharp side pull then to the top.

Match start on the thin ridge. Stand up and use a far right side pull or precision footwork to reach the top.

Right hand under cling left hand pinch. Head up on the left arete and then right on the slopey rounded holds.

Match on the obvious jug. Head straight up to higher holds and top out.

Sit start. Match on the same jug in the large crack. Head to the right and mantle around the top right corner.

Start from the corner and traverse the route

Up right side

Sit start and find a way to climb the crack.

Stand start with a hand on each side of the face. Head straight up the black slab to reach the jug and top out.

Easy for those tall enough to reach. A tough challenge for those who aren't.

Sit start matching on the lower left cube. Traverse the blocs to the right. All features on the rock are in, including the generous pocket near the start.

Top out if you feel like wrestling a mossy scramble through the tree branches, or just finish on a jug.

There are many opportunities for knee bars so some knee pads can be handy.

Right hand on the bad sloper out on the face, left on the knob. Throw the heal up then work hands up holds to a position to mantle.

Match on the long juggy ridge. Leap between jugs or include a few crimps to top out on the right.

Sit-start on the big jug.

Sit start from two rounded edges and move to jug via crimp. Wrestle the mantle.

Sit start on the right with a big pinch and undercling , stay in the small roof as long a possible and then transfer onto the face to finish.

Traverse up and right along the ever changing lip.

Up left face

Match start on right sloper. Head left along the slopey ridges to reach the jug and top out.

Start matched on juggy ridge as for Stab in the Dark. Move right through shouldery, finger intensive moves on crimps before reaching prominent juggy nose. Exit straight up.

Start as low as you can and pick and choose your holds on the way up!

Climb the tall dark face to the groove. #Highball

Start matched on obvious smooth block. Head right and then straight up.

Up face / shallow crack

Work your way up the crack, very obvious, travers around the right hand side of the plant near the top

Start with two good handholds while your right foot is towards the creek and go to the left. RISK of falling into the creek.

Stand start with right hand on the gutter side, left hand on small crimp, climb the rail to the top.

Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete.

Match on the juggy ridge. Throw to a high hold and top out. Watch out for the tree branch. Try it in the dark.

Up obvious seam in middle

Sit start. Match on the arete low to the left. Move up to the right then stretch around the overhang to transition to the right side and mantle there.

Note:

Easier for those with longer arms but a good challenge for the less lanky.

The most popular problem at the corridor. Start matched on the amazing sloper and finish up and left. Drop off.

Up face right of middle seam

Start on good hold below orange streak. Move up to jug and throw left to arete. Once standing on boulder, it is easier to downclimb than fight past the tree. Throw is span dependent but there is a static method.

Start matched on the large feature in the middle of the face. Throw a big move for the arête then use high right hand holds to top out at the peak.

Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab.

Start far along the left side. Traverse along the crack to the start jug and finish with Hornet Nest from there.

Start matched on the arete and finish on the blocky jug.

The obvious easy line up the right side of the prow in the middle of the outcrop (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out)

Match start on the good ridge and dyno the triangle on the top and find a way to rock over. There are two good holds for the right and left feet.

Stand start with a pointy crimp and a rounded rail. Move left to the slopers and then to the large pocket jug. Top out to the right of the peak.

Sit start from the pillar and head through the roof to finish on the blocky jug. Pad the sharp boulder behind you for the finish.

Stand start with hands on the arete. Walk your hands along the slopy arete while making use of foot holds as they come along. Top out to the left of the peak.

Great fun for the whole family.

Head straight up from the same start as The Thief.

Stand start. Match on the jug. Head to the right then up the side of the face.

Start standing on the far left of the boulder in the sword grass. Starting hold is obvious right hand lump.

Start on the arête. Climb the tall prow and top out to the left.

Climb the pinches and jugs. About 4m to the left of Sun's Out.

The face just to the left of super extra gravity. Start on two opposing side pulls, the left is good. Head up to the jug in the break then to the top via a small edge and some slopers.

Stand start on jugs and use the pockets or razor crimp to reach the hole and top out to the left of the peak.

Sit start matched on the slopey horn. Go for the arete.

tand start matched on the good diagonal hold. Head up to find small crimps then commit to the top.

Match on the arête. Move up the right side.

Traverse from the far left to the far right.

Start from the far-right and try to traverse to the far left and climb to the top.

Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene.

Start matched down on the rounded part of the arete. Traverse right into a pinch and a good edge, finish with a big move to the large pocket. Much harder if you’re short.

Stand start. Match on the jagged jug. Head to the right then up the main central flute to enjoy the view.

Up left short side

Match on the arête. Move up the left side.

Sit-start and match hands on the juggy arete, and dyno/reach to the right. use a good jug on the left to out the climb.

Sit start in the right hand roof, pull though onto the face and traverse to the left stay low though the harder part and straight out up to the finish.

start by matching on the crack and continue climbing until you need to make a big reach with your left hand into the crack to find a good jug, then use other jugs to finish the climb.

Climb the tall steep face with some big compression moves. You will find this climb just up the hill from Eugene at an amazing formation to the right of the big tree.

Start on the massive jug shelf. Head up and right to finish on the highest point of the boulder with a final committing move.

One of the best of its grade on the North Island.

Highball

Sit start, match on the vertical jug, and use other good jugs to climb the rest.

Sit start while matching on the jug and climb to the top.

Sit start with the left on a bad pinch and the right low on the arete. Climb the black featureless arete to better holds. Highball

Obvious right to left traverse starting from the prominent jug/horn beside the tree at the far right of the outcrop. Rising leftwards traverse, with some small holds beneath the prow. Avoid large jugs above and continue around corner to left end of outcrop to finish

Start on two shallow pockets. Big move to the right then same finish as High Heels.

Sit start down and right off the horn and head up and left using a variety of holds.

Start as for Freak of Nature but head straight up pinching the fin.

This is a low level right to left variant of the Trackside Traverse problem starting on the same obvious large jug as for Trackside traverse). Heel hook on jug/break for right foot to start and then stay low using the small slopers and crimps to traverse left around the prow.

Start as for Freak of Nature, traverse left to right along the sloping lip to a shallow tear drop feature and finish with a hard mantle onto the slab. needs more cleaning.