Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Climb the cruxy face then slabby corner left of "A Carp Died for This Climb", moving right for the last move or two to the shared belay/rap anchor. 3 bolts and possible to clip the fourth on "A Carp Died for This Climb". Take care approaching and clipping the third bolt as run-out.

Two fixed draws and binder anchor. Super steep, great climbing on big holds.

Hard start leads to an slab to clip second bolt. Crux consists of a layback on minimal feet until a victory jug to clip from. Juggy from 3rd bolt to the anchor.

Tackle the middle of the pinnacle through steep and sustained moves, topping out on the right. One of the most popular climbs at Kawakawa Bay.

On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up.

Ultra Classic. The falcons enjoy this section of cliff too. Climb up the ramp then get stuck into some thin moves followed by pumpy face climbing on the steep, well-featured rock.

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

Follow the bolts up, move right after the third bolt then straight up.

Nice juggy climbing to a delicately pumpy finish.

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

Start on the left-hand side of the crack.

Tricky start up amazing rock using the lonely tufa, then climb onto easier ground and jugs.

Climb up a steepening orange wall just left of the arete.

Slab start leads to a overhanging section on interesting pockets. Big move out left or straight up from the last bolt to the anchor.

Up the corner to shared anchor with OTOTE.

Climb the slabby wall to the ledge at the base of overhanging section placing a wire or cam on the way or clip the first bolt of ‘The Appendix’. From the ledge clip the bolt on the headwall then move up past this to clip the last bolt on ‘The Appendix’.

A right side variation involves climbing the face directly to the single bolt on the steep bulge. Stay right on the bulge using a sketchy heel hook to gain better holds. Press out mantle to finish. This variation is called "Toxoplasmosis" by Marco Lefebvre.

22 to top anchor, or 21 to anchor below the roof.

Gentle pats on the bottom lead to greater excitement. The line of bolts just to the right of Whacking Moles. Skirts the right-hand edge of the large cave/scoop. Another fine, popular route with friendly bolting. The long run-out in the middle is as inexplicable as the missing 'h', but the climbing is of much lower difficulty on this section.

Left- hand start variant to Hrgngh.

Start left of the blunt arete for Hrgngh, the left crack and everything beyond is out (no bridging obviously). Make your way up some difficult moves and finish as for Hrgngh.

Called 'Dwarf Toss' due to the high starting hold (jump start for many).

Delicate rock-over to balancy mantle.

At right hand end of main wall. Use a heel hook.

A classic route with beautiful moves, climbing the right side of the prow. Originally a top-rope problem, Richard Thomson hand-drilled a bolt in 1988 and climbed the route with natural gear (finishing out left on the edge of the arete) – and a rest later eliminated by Roger Parkyn who named the route Padded Cell. Retrobolted, reclimbed and renamed by Richard Thomson in 2001.

First climbed using the top edge has now gone direct on the face [2 grades harder?], physical when done using the edge (i.e. not easy), crimpy on the face, great anchor with clippable biners for easy lowering.

An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry.

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

P1: Up the face. Some holds hard to find. Keep moving to avoid the pump.

Up the arete then onto a slab.

Distinctive crack to blank face.

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

Excellent climbing on slopers. Sustained.

Starts just right of a small right-facing corner.

Start at a flake and climb through bulges heading up high through a short chimney.

Hard start up hanging arete feature to some sustained climbing to break. Anchor just above lip.

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

Advance to the high first bolt before you're greeted with technical climbing with a crux to match.

While the first bolt is high, the terrain before it is well below the grade and generously pocketed

Sit start on obvious crimpers. Move upwards to obvious jugs and topout.

Cheat-stone makes it easier, while pulling off a right heelhook is more exciting.

Hard 22 / V2 Highball. Powerful and fun moves. Traverses right after the crux.

What was once a very bold mixed line is now a fully bolted sport route. Start as for Victim, but follow the arching flake left at the 3rd bolt, the angle straight up at the 5th.

Fairly easy for the grade. Starts up the left-leading weakness through the roof on the left side of The Alcove. Follow three bolts leftward and then pull over the roof on good holds into a shallow groove with a bridging rest. Steepening finish, with the best holds leading left. Use the anchors of one of the adjacent routes.

Go through roofs to join Bush Lawyer.

Nice start holds.

Clip first bolt of SJ, step right then up past 2 bolts

Start to the right of the runnel, a few tricky slab moves lead to a rooflet, pull through the roof then the climbing eases off the closer you get to the anchors.

Once one of the most heads up routes around, this line has recently been retrobolted and is now a sport climb. Start up Victim but instead of breaking right at the flake, carry on straight up. Excellent, sustained movement and good rock.

Leftmost route

Take the rounded arete left of 'Lung Dyno' to a slightly committing mantle.

No 89 in 2009 Guide

No 84 in 2003 Guide (map 2)

Climb to the black shattered ledge, then up the crack with a knuckle-fucking flare through the bulge above. Continue up, moving right toward Silver Airman at the top.

Boulder up to the first bolt, clipping off a good hold. Using the pinch above, pull over the bulge on to the wall.

Easier climbing with lots of no hands rests before the 5 bolt. Go through the small roof and dead point your way to victory.

The classic finger crack.

Start left up the first bolt, climbing up the arete. Veer towards Aratika at the 4th bolt, then back left.

Short but interesting climb with bouldering type moves.

This boulder is in between the Solar Wall and Merlin Wall (right hand side on the topo picture)

1 medium hex or 2 friend between 2nd and 3rd bolt

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

Pull hard through the overhang past two bolts, then move rightward, clipping the third bolt from a good hold in the base of the groove to the left. Step right and power on up the prow, moving left to the fifth bolt and a positive exit. Five bolts and anchors

Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality'

Climb the overhanging arête. Heel-hooking goodness.

One of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the North Island, some say it is even the best.

Pitch 1: (17) Start from the ledge just right of the big pinnacle from the fixed rope. Climb through the above bulges before moving left under a small roof and through the groove. Belay in the cave (Trad belay)

Pitch 2: (18) Climb through the roof of the cave to a ledge system. Begin the traverse left to a lower ledge system. Continue traversing to a v groove with a crack in the roof above you (Trad belay)

Pitch 3: (22) The money pitch. Blast through the roof crack to easier ground. Follow the finger crack and the corner to the easy head wall and bolted belay. This pitch can be easily aided.

Climb the thin crack and slab. It will help to have skinny fingers.

Heads up the left-hand rib right of No Country for Old Men.

Hop-start to jug

Climb up the arête to the very top of the crag. Optional wire placement in the middle to lessen the runout.