Routes as alpine in Ōtākou / Otago

Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.

Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays.

There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.

access the mountain from what is now the standard approach route through Kea Basin, ascending the Birley Glacier and through Wright Col

ascending the north-west ridge of West peak is one of the classic climbs of New Zealand.

south face of the East Peak, the route goes through the upper section of the bluffs by the top of the couloir. comprises a bottom third of rock buttresses, a middle third of glacier, and a top third of steep snow slopes. Ben Dare finally soloed this route on his 6th visit to the mountain.

http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=070910_earnslaw.php&direct=nz

the obvious South East Coluoir visible from the Rees Valley. runs all the way to the summit!

The traverse has commitment , exposure and dramatic views. It takes a full day. In full summer conditions, the route is a mostly long rock scramble with steep sections, however snow and ice increase the difficulty. For pitching, bring a 60m rope with a small rack and plenty of long slings. An ice axe is necessary in winter conditions. Take plenty of water, there is none en route.

Starting at Shadow Basin top station, ascend ridgeline lookers left of the saddle. Gains about 200m vertical - either hug the blocky ridge or adjacent snow slopes can provide easy solutions.

The left most snow gully.

Blue moon 160m, grade 22, mixed sport / trad

Pitch 1 - 25m, grade 20, 7 bolts & trad Start at cairn, a few metres left of first bolt. Traverse up and right with stemming feet on small holds to first bolt. After 4th bolt move right into crack, good cam placement. Pull through 2 cruxy lips then easy ground to DBA

Pitch 2 - 35m, grade 17, 4 bolts & trad Diagonally up and right from anchor past 2 bolts to corner with small gear. Up onto the top of pillar, past another bolt. Move up and left from bolt, crux through lip with good cam. Pass one more bolt then scramble up through easy ground, trending right to ledge and DBA

Pitch 3 - 35m grade 22, 8 bolts & trad Bolt straight above the anchor then follow the crack. Follow 2 bolts on face above, making balancy delicate moves on small holds. Clip a long sling to the bolt on your left then head up through the groove and large detached block on the right to the ledge. Step right to the bolt on next headwall. 2 ropes essential to avoid drag. Tricky moves up through more bolts and through left side of small roof. Easy to anchor

Pitch 4 - 25m grade 20, 8 bolts & trad Gear in the crack up and left of the anchor, then traverse right to the first bolt. Crimpy face climbing up to the anchor. At the last bolt don’t be tempted by the easy ledge out right - go straight up past the bolt for full value

Pitch 5 - 25m, grade 21, 6 bolts & trad The money pitch. Up past 1st bolt, then follow crack up and right. Good cam then traverse left on ledge to bolt on arete. Take a breather and take in the exposure, then power up the arete past and mantle onto ledge. Head right and up to next ledge up large crack / block. DBA on your right on next ledge

Pitch 6 - 15m, grade 16, 1 bolt & trad Short pitch up final headwall with good gear in horizontal cracks. Top out with trad anchor. Easy walk off, follow cairns through tussocks back to camp. Optional swim in the lake on the way down. Good bivvy spot 100m from base of route with water source.

If rappelling the route, take care when pulling the ropes from the 2nd anchor, easy to get ropes stuck. Better to rap the line of anchors to the left (route under development) or walk off