Routes as trad in Wharepapa South

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

Climb the face until you reach the crack on the left side of the pillar. Climb the crack to a bolted belay on top of the pillar.

Climb the face to the right until you reach the crack on the right side of the BB pillar. Same anchors as BB.

Heading up the offwidth crack, following it as it trends right to the top.

The obvious crack line less than a meter left of Ignimbrite which nastily retrobolted it. Watch the rock quality down low. The FA is contentious.

P1: (12m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. Trad anchor. P2: (8m, 2 bolts) Climb the chimney on the left side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

Follow the obvious crack in the dihedral. The difficulty increases where the angle changes.

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

NOT the bolts, that is Wild Country Express. The corner crack on trad gear. Be careful of the rock at top.

The fist crack and corner starting down below Dog's Breakfast , finishing at a DBC anchor on top of the stacked blocks (or continue up Dog's Breakfast).

hard back and footing to layback and anchor off trees. Good fun 15.

The obvious crack next to 'Streetwise'. Starts narrow and progressively widens to Camalot #4-5 at the top. First ascent uncertain, but sometime in the 1990s, and possibly Bryce.

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

Jam and layback the fist-to-offwidth crack to reach a large ledge, then jam the corner hand crack to a DBC belay.

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

Start form the belay bolt 2m left of Spartacus. Thin trad climbing.

Climb the groove then continue up the crack into the large right-facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay.

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

The steep hand crack below the 'Infidel' arete.

The thin crack in the corner, just left of 'Hare Rama'.

An adventure. Up and right from the start of The Root, then a committed move rightwards will establish you in the wide groove. Jam your way up the crack to the pine tree, sling it, then climb the right side of the tree until you can regain the rock. Continue up past the next tree following the right-hand crack system (don't escape left to The Root anchors), until you reach a single bolt just below the DBC anchor. Take a wide range of cams, nuts and slings. You can rap off on a 60m rope.

A narrow corner, nice little trad route. In the shade all day at bottom, the top gets some late afternoon sun. Use the crack for cams 3 to 5. You want at least two number 4 cams. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Great corner climb following crack to roof, move left then on up to anchors.

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

Climb the wide crack, continuing up through the hole at the top.

Climb the appealing left-curving hand/fist crack. An awkward move into the alcove, then up through the chocked blocks with care, to a DBC anchor.

Start as for FOF but head right from the first ledge up the face and thin crack towards the hanging corner. Head back left to the anchor via the steep face and wide crack.

Pitch 1: Climb the tight corner crack then move right and climb over the large blocks. Continue up the wide crack system then past 2 bolts (crux) and mantle onto belay ledge (DBC belay). Pitch 2: A difficult move off the belay ledge is followed by easier climbing past one bolt to DBC belay.

Up the slab with 1 bolt for protection. Into the corner and follow it to the top.

A short finger and hand crack. Double bolt and chain anchor

Up the manky left-hand corner crack to DBC anchor. You may need to dig it out on the way.

Starts from the right hand end of the ledge. Follow crack feature to the right of GPT.

Fist and off-width crack to an anchor at half height. Doesn't feel as short as it looks.

Zig-zagging fingertip to hand crack with a steep finish.

Start in short corner crack, veer left into right crack. Cruxes are at bolts.

Pitch 1 (16): Up the mossy green corner, escape right before the Flake of Doom to a stance and trad belay (#1-4 cams in belay).

Pitch 2 (21): Up the hand crack, ride top of flake of doom left to regain the corner. Up the tough thin corner into the pine tree. Classic.

Double Cams .3-3 and a 4 at least.

Starts from ledge above the track. Climb the corner before moving onto the left arete and climbing to the ledge. Head up right facing corner to a semi-detached flake. Follow the crack as it steepens past 2 bolts. Double bolt anchor.

1. 15m (16) Same mushy green corner and traverse as "Agony in the Garden". Try to avoid using #2 and #3 cams when building your anchor, a high #4 is useful.

2. 25m (22) Continue up the handcrack, then traverse right to wrestle with the impressive leaning corner (.4-#3). If you make it, scuttle back left and up when the opportunity presents itself. The direct finish has not yet been climbed. Descent: Walk off, or rap off a fixed rope and carabiner anchor at the top (40m? with some tree shimmying?) Rack: At least double cams 0.3-3, one #4. Extra hand-sized pro would be nice.

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

Up the outside of the detached pillar. Climb the twin cracks until stepping left onto the front of the pillar past a bolt. Head slightly left past more bolts to the top of the pillar.

Starts in the narrow crack before heading past 2 bolts to the anchor.

Start up slab move right into a corner. Climb this corner till you get your hands on the ledge, then head left into the crack system before, climbing this system to the anchor of Finger of Fate

Follows the incipient curving crack system, first protection a high peg. Follow the crack, trending left after the peg then back right and up the groove.

You will find this climb on the back of the first pillar in a clearing, after you come out of the bush, walking in a down stream direction. Starts as hand crack and closes to a finger crack. If you have big hands it will be harder! Add a grade or two if you don't know how too jam!

Starts up the middle of the face just right of FOF. Mixed route. Hard technical climbing for the first 3 bolts. Move right to climb left facing corner. Above this gear is needed.

Mixed route. Start right of LRT. Head up the face drifting slightly right through small overlap. Stay just left of the arete.

The start is hard, with a greasy finger crack. Best done in the summer then the crack is the driest. Off set wires and cams are handy. The first ascent was done in 2 pitches(in memory of Arapiles), belaying on the ledge that separates the lower finger crack from the upper hand crack. You will need size 1 to 4 cams in the second half. it has been done as one pitch. Double bolt and chain Anchor.

Use the last bolt of 'Performance Anxiety'

The hand crack dominating the centre of the wall. A lot of work has gone into uncovering this masterpiece, please respect the effort by waiting until the route is declared open.

Short and steep. Hand jamming essential. If you bridge like I did, its only grade 17, but if you climb it like Bryce did with no bridging then it's grade 19. Take lots of size 3 cams. Shares an anchor with Throw back corner.

Technical climbing on small gear to the ledge at half height. Then punch it to the top up the splitter hand crack. Bolted anchor to left of crack before you hit the tree line.

A nice wee chimney. Knee pads where handy!DBC.

Alternate left hand start to 'Super C Ellery'