Routes in Waikato for selected grade

Use the last bolt of 'Performance Anxiety'

The widening crack in the middle of the crag. The line is obvious and follows the crack all the way, past a tree at 10m. The crux is the small overhang before the tree, and the crack widens to a chimney near the top. Carry tube chocks or large cams.

First half of climb on trad (or abseil in to set top rope from first bolt about 10m up and lead the short headwall). Hard start to good crack, following this up into corner for awkward moves to reach first of 3 bolts on headwall.

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past 2 bolts through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall to the rings.

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

The hand crack parallel to the arete. Finishes on the highest buttress.

Starts at the second cave. Follow the finger crack then mantle onto the face. Head up bushy ledges to a crack system. Keep heading up through bushy terrain through a roof, face and slab climbing. Hard route finding due to the bushy nature of the route.

The acute corner across the gully from Last Chance.

The right-hand (cleaner) corner and crack with a tree part-way up. Continues on bolts above the DBC anchor of Short n Sweet with some balancy moves and thought-provoking finish over the top to a DBC anchor.

Start at the same belay for Delusions Of Grandeur, but at the midway point continue up the arete, then head right to the top slab.

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

Brilliant. At the far right-hand end of the boulder, in the bush. Starts of the river bank. Pro: #1 ballnut, #2 RP, #2 ballnut, none of which is inspiring (R/X rating). After the first moves, move right to place the first pro (#1 ballnut, RP)

Perhaps best top-roped off trees behind the boulder: head right and then up and around to the back where rata vines/roots provide access.

I (Stephen) first cleaned it and decided it was to dangerous due to a large unstable pillar at the bottom. About a year later Dave Garrity cleaned some more and levered off the big pillar, which now lies at the bottom. Behind it was a nice crack! Bryce Martin added a bolt and chain anchor. He was the 1st to free lead it. Take lots of # 2 cams, big cams size 4 and 5 are good on the crux, and hexes and wires are handy. Tape your hands! or wear crack gloves.

The left-most line at Wall Of Sirens. From the small belay ledge there are two options. Either head up the small finger crack (20) or right through the overhanging hand crack (19).

Whatever the option, head left to finish at the anchors of Benny's Magical Koura Circus.

P1: The slab 10m right of LWOHS with 3 bolts and a crack for gear. P2: Up the thin crack and stay left of the roof. Finish up thin crack.

Pitch 1: (20) From the right side of the cave climb the crack, then bridge and fight your way to the ledge above the roof. Then follow the crack to a bushy gut to the belay

Pitch 2: (20) Continue up the small buttress and into the groove on the left side of the pillar, belaying at the small roof (Trad Belay)

Pitch 3: (20) Go right at the roof and pull over the lip, following the face trending right to a groove and continuing up to the belay

The climb just to the right of The Raven. Go up the right trending ramp/crack to an overhang. Move left onto a ledge, then continue past a thread option to a mantle that leads to the belay for pitch two on The Odyssey. Trad belay

Climb up the right-trending chimney in the corner. The higher you get the harder the moves are, leading to a ledge to belay off. Continue as for The Odyssey.

Climbs the imposing sickle feature then escapes left to the upper face.

Pitch 1: (20) Scramble up the access rope to a ledge, then continue upwards to the undercling crack. Follow this crack until you get squeezed out of the big corner, escaping left to the slab and anchor.

Pitch 2: (17) Step left to the corner, mantle up then head to the anchor.

The old steep rough approach and hand line is still there (hard to find), but it's probably easier and safer to carefully sneak around from the end of the hand line at the bottom of P2 of Ventura Highway, past the toe of the buttress for 10m through the bush, then look up.

4th route from the left. 2nd pitch 5m (18) connects to start of Fear of Flying.

The thin seam to the right of the corner. A bit of a squeeze route but some nice fingers moves

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

Up into the scoop, tackle the overhanging bulge, continue up the blunt arete.

Start as for Survival Of The Fittest, but head right from the mid-height ledge to continue on the arete. DBB.

Overhang start to short tricky face.

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

The South Face, round to the right of Lost Again. Climb the initial wall to the groove/ramp (the Giants Nose). Bridge, then the headwall on pockets to chains.

Wander up from the toe of the buttress, trending left to a crux then around the corner, back right and up to the anchors. Lots of shiny expensive bolts.

Start right of 'Via Dolorosa' and trend right following diagonal holds. Sustained.