Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 3rd Jun 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super pumped up the face but wrangled enough of a rest to squeak up the roof.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Have done before. I like the style of the bottom section.
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27 ~26 |
★★ Moana Magic
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Both cruxes are fun. Easier than Lollapalooza for me, seems most people find Lola easier than me though. Hard to believe there is a two grade difference. EwBMI is 675.
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Glad to get the clean repeat first try
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23 |
★★ Anti Walk Device
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another great route, climbed to the final roof clean but then lost my cool. Need to expose myself to roofs more I think
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25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing climb, climbed it clean to the final roof. Where my lack of roof climbing got the better of me, managed to do all the moves but took a few attempts just to get over the nerves. Will come back for it
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Mon 27th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | |||||
Made an absolute meal of this climb. Lost my nerve after the start and couldn't recover
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24 |
★ Hasta Luego
![]() | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Got a bit muddled in the corner beneath the roof on the onsight. Went 2nd go
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Get Kerfuffled
![]() | 20m, 8 | Crap | ||||
Beware. A lot of the hangers on this route are homemade and some are super bent. Homemade junk is not rated. Super sketchy.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Get Kerfuffled
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky for the grade though not a sandbag as suggested by other folk
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 ~20 |
★ Get Kerfuffled
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
big sandbag. you will get kerfuffled if you think this is a 17. it is simply not a 17 - at the very least not by the standards of the other 17s right next to it by the same FA, one of which I lead happily in jandals, this had me swearing.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
16 |
★★ Nab
![]() | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
How is this 3 stars it's more like 1
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
22 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll
![]() | 19m, 7 | |||||
repeat
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Lightning Head
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
intense boulder problem into a joyous top
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ The Engorger
![]() | 25m, 7 | |||||
pumpy
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cannot do the crux move and too tired to clip the last bolt....
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24 ~23 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | |||||
Fell both try before the last bolt..
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24 |
★ Hasta Luego
![]() | 19m, 9 | |||||
Weird climb have to move left and right on slippy sloper
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★ Anti Walk Device
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell at last move in the roof and didn't have the gas for another attempt. Another one for the next trip!
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24 |
★★ Lightning Head
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two attempts - but arms were totally gone for the pink point attempt. Next trip!
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
18 Hard |
★★ Te Whanau
![]() | 20m, 5 | |||||
Couldn't get off the ground (too short?!) + Super pumped from earlier in the day!
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing, but I'm a bit too scared of the runout + pillar to try climb it clean.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Garden Bar | |||||||
17 ~19 |
Jug of Speights
![]() | 25m, 13 | Don't Bother | ||||
Very dirty
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
A bit of a scary runout up the candlestick! Confusing at the top, I went to the anchor up and right as the guidebook said, but missing the final overhang might've been a cop out?
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
19 |
★ Cryptology
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
Quite juggy, then a tricky mantle
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Te Whanau
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I fell off on the first move off the ground so no onsight for me 😢
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
15 ~12 |
Lambs to the Slaughter
![]() | 20m, 7 | |||||
Nice and very easy
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
Playing around getting the tricky moves at the bottom
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Rock 'n' Rolla
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool but very hollow flake
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17 Hard |
★ Get Kerfuffled
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky crux! Mary got very kerfuffled
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 ~26 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I have fallen off the end of this route a lot. 26 for me.
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22 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll
![]() | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Have done before.
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
18 ~19 |
★★ Te Whanau
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
v1 start into delicate but equally burly nonsense, squeezed immaculately between the actually climbable features of the two climbs on either side. spaced out bolts on the crux with honest groundfall potential from a decent way up.
I am five foot bugger all though. Maybe an 18 if you ignore the start and wander onto the other features? Stonking climb. |
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Fri 22nd Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
14 |
★ The Wet Spaghetti Monster
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Every good crag needs a girdle
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16 |
★ Generation X
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
Woah a sequence
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12 |
Zoftig
![]() | 12m | |||||
Has bolts
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 Easy |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Should have gotten this first go but blew the top after the hard part. Soft compared to other 24s around. #2ndgo
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very fun route, with a hard start and juggy finish
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24 |
★★ Lightning Head
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite fun route on good holds just one hardish move
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
18 |
★ Just Go Nuts
![]() | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Should be fully bolted already, no need to put any gear. Or am I too confident to go up without enough protection?
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
The face climb is not very good. A bit hard to see which hold is good and some hold are very dusty. After the face climb, the bolt run out so much. The ceiling is fun and easier then expected.
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21 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll P1
![]()
1
21
17m
| 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only climbed the first pitch. It is very dirty after the ceiling, cannot find a good hold to go up.
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Fri 8th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★ Anti Walk Device
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Misread the roof section during the onsight.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 Hard |
★★ Lightning Head
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustain face climbing on crimpy hold.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
20 ~21 |
★ Unknown 20
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard for the few 2 bolt.
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | |||||
Surprised myself, totally miss read it and still managed to find the good holds. Great climb!
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 Easy |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route. Had 3 sits hanging the draws. Had 1 sit on my second lap. Definitely be back. Good to check this wall out finally.
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Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome climb, did feel easy for a 23 but I'm tall so maybe could reach through the harder moves at the start.
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Thu 25th May 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 Easy |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awsome climb. Meg thought it was 23, I thought It was pretty soft for grade.
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25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice face to burly roof. Worked moves think it would go if I had the endurance for it. Good climbing like most of the climbs at this crag, shame we didn't go sooner.
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21 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll P1
![]()
1
21
17m
| 17m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure how to list it. Only climbed first pitch. Bit slippery
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Terrain Spotting
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb. Positive holds, big moves.
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Positively terrifying
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24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sweet mother of god that headwall is incredible
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | |||||
had an awesome/ spooky big flake that seemed to not be attached to the wall at all but felt solid - really fun!
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24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | |||||
so hard for me haha but cool moves!
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Thu 27th Apr 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
27 |
★★ Moana Magic
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dropped the onsite on the roof. Psyched to come back and get it done.
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30 |
★ Te Timatanga
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Thats one thin crux!
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24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt a little soft for the grade.
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
15 |
The Incredible Present
![]() | 18m, 7 | Don't Bother | ||||
pretty dirty climb
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell from the last hold. A very short and crimpy crux, followed by easy face and pumpy roof.
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great, varied route!
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25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A true benchmark for the grade and one of my personal favourites. Dropped the flash go on the last hold.
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
12 |
Zoftig
![]() | 12m | |||||
Not a trad anymore
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
12 |
Zoftig
![]() | 12m | |||||
Bolted route, climbed on lead.
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Garden Bar | |||||||
25 |
Just Add Sausages
![]() | 15m, 5 | |||||
I hated this route first go, but it was very dirty. It cleaned up well and is actually very good. Couldn’t quite pull off the send at 9pm after doing the GT earlier in the day, will need to return!
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
Gear on
★★ Inshallah
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell above the last draw on the first go, sent easily second go. Very fun, but a fair bit easier than Lolla.
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★ Smokin’ O.P.’s
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Kind of weird, but I sort of liked it.
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23 |
★★ Anti Walk Device
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A stiff warm up, and a bit wanders, but quite good nonetheless.
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25 |
Gear on
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Arrived to the crag around 6pm after driving straight from Chch. Didn’t have any expectations, but went down easily second go. Absolute belter of a pitch!
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Toad Hall | |||||||
25 ~26 |
★★ River Rat
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I can see why >90% of ascents on 8a.nu are 7b+ for this climb. Seems very hard for 25 from what I saw today.
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Wed 25th Jan 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Rock 'n' Rolla
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Somewhat dodgy rock in places, but it’s nice and long at least.
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17 |
★ Terrain Spotting
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty nice climbing actually.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
27 |
★★ Moana Magic
![]() | 25m, 10 | |||||
First 27 in a day. 3rd shot.
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22 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll
![]() | 19m, 7 | |||||
The crag warmup
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not so far from flashing it, and finally didn't have enough time to send it. Maybe next time. Superb climb though! And don't stop at the fist chain, the anchor is 2m higher !)
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The first few moves are a bit ritchy but beautiful line
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22 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll
![]() | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty hard start then getting easier, I stopped at the end of the 21, the next few moves to make it a 22 are mossy and would need a wild brush.
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
23 |
★ Smokin’ O.P.’s
![]() | 15m, 6 | |||||
Nice little line.
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easier for me as I'm taller, saw a shorter person try this and I can see why it was graded as 23.
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Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
14 |
★ Right Ascension
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaning up Erin’s lead.
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Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
27 |
Gear on
★★ Moana Magic
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I had done the low sequence of Changes of Time earlier, but I’m still claiming the flash as the crux is the roof. Thanks to Robbie for the beta and for hanging the draws. Hardest flash to date!
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25 |
Gear on
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Got close to the onsight, but botched the sequence at the roof. Went easily second go. Great climbing overall but would arguably be better if it finished below the chossy roof at the low anchor.
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24 |
★★ Lightning Head
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice crimpy sequence on this one. Felt quite a bit easier than Microcosmos.
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Fri 25th Nov 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
16 |
★ Generation X
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just as the guidebook describes, bit of everything. Really enjoyable
|
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14 |
★ Occupational Therapy
![]() | 10m, 4 | Average | ||||
Used this as a warmup, nothing to note really
|
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | |||||
Ticking off the dogs on the last day, went first shot despite forgetting everything after the crux
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
12 |
★ Dog Leg
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Used this as a warmup, pretty relaxed climbing. Rapped down
|
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14 |
★ Progressive Leadership
![]() | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nothing really of note, there was one really exceptional hold - felt like a door handle
|
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16 Hard |
★ Grandma Funk
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Slab, classic. Got dripped on by the overhang above but the climb itself remained dry.
This felt harder than a 16 but alas
|
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★ Microcosmos
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ended up using improvised beta on the fly, which worked a treat. Good power enduro climbing.
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Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★ Microcosmos
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thought I had the onsight in the bag, only to drop it above the last bolt due to misreading the sequence. Will return tomorrow.
|
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22 |
★ Honey I Blew up the Atoll
![]() | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpier than expected, and a bit hard to read at times.
|
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23 |
★★★ Jack Be Nimble
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Surely deserves classic status for the novelty of climbing the detached pillar. Get it while it’s there!
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Tue 27th Sep 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
14 |
★ Occupational Therapy
![]() | 10m, 4 | |||||
bit wet at top
|
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Tue 5th Jul 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | |||||
First climb of the day so I didn't want to crank the crux crimps at the start. Touched the holds once then pulled through to 3rd draw and refreshed my memory up to the roof. Had a few goes on the roof trying to imagine a bit of pump but once I got over my fear it felt not bad.
|
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25 |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | |||||
Took extra draws to swap out the rope shredders that I put on earlier as I thought I'd have to work out the start again with warm fingers and dog again. Went amazingly smooth and I ended up sending it without much worry or pump.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had a good rest just before the roof, messed up my beta slightly but still hit the glory jug over the lip and somehow was too pumped to hold it, fell as I was swinging my feet right and got some nice hang time! Power endurance is a must for this thing.
|
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25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thought I might have been too pumped after the first go but I rested for over 3 minutes below the roof and made a few moves more efficiently and went all the way up and over the roof! Great climb!
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Motatapu Valley | |||||||
Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
19 |
★ Cryptology
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
Warm up 2, more pumped than I was hoping for on a 19!
|