Routes as boulder in Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington

The classic Baring Head problem. Straight up the middle of Split Apple. Can be done as a dyno raising the difficulty to V3. From the central jug, high feet, then dyno to the top.

Climb the middle of the slab on good holds.

Start on slopers at the left end of the overlap. Traverse right for a few moves and exit via Slaprobatics.

Sit start on a large hold and traverse left on the (wave-like) band of slopers, keeping below the large break. Finish up the easy groove at the far end.

Sit start in the middle of the small overhang. At the break, head left and match on the diagonal edge. Lock down for the crimper then deadpoint for the flat white jug.

Sit start. Climb up and left into the large undercling. Gain a sloping pinch below the lip (a knee bar helps), find some jugs on the lip then exit up the mossy crack.

Sit-start on the arete inside, traverse leftist of the cave, and exit direct.

Sit-start in the large jug, take the gaston edge, then another edge left of the arete. Make a long move up to another gaston and exit direct.

Start on the large Hueco feature. Climb directly up.

Sit-start with left hand on the blunt arete as low as is reasonable and right on an undercling. Slap your way up to gain the lip.

Climb the centre of the wall to a good edge. Make a long move left and exit around the arete.

Start as for Game On but break rightwards onto the slab.

A worthwhile eliminate. Climb the slab via sloping edges, avoiding anything decent.

One of the great cave problems! Start on the good flake. Make a long move with your left hand out to the wide pinch, gain a series of vertical slopers then bust left into the crack and exit trending left.

Straight up the short wall in the corridor by the exit for Toast.

Start on the huge undercling. Pull on and follow a series of slopers around the bulge and then left to finish up the arete.

Start deep within the grotto matched on a flat jug, move right and out of the grotto. Keep tracking right to an obvious sidepull on the right side of the face. Exit direct.

Climb the high zig zag feature.

Step off the rock and pad up the slab to the right of the arete.

Avoid the central jug, climb directly up and through the v groove.

Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.

A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure

A classic boulder problem that is now a classic route. Monkey up the vague pillar on good sidepulls and underclings to the large V-groove. Drop off here or commit to the mossy topout. Two ring bolts and belay bolts or two bouldering mats – it’s your choice.

Sit start in the middle of the overhang. Pull onto the break, sidepull/undercut the huge 'love handle' and crank for a two finger chip. Finish directly up the wall above.

Sustained climbing on thin edges.

Start as per toast, but from the first hold join into Raw Iron and finish up that.

Start on some good finger jugs at the back of the low roof. Gain a couple of reason-able edges in the middle of the roof & then slap for the lip.

Starts just right of Neils Arete. A variety of good holds lead up to an unusual two finger pocket, crank off this to the jug and exit direct.

Start as for Speed Freak. From the wide pinch move right to a sidepull then right again to a diagonal flatty. Exit straight up or trending right.

Sit-start to the right of Rock On, climb the arete on its left side.

Sit-start on a sloping crimp and sharp sidepull/undercling. Pull on and lunge for the lip. Grade drops if you stack the pads.

Climb the right Arete while avoiding any good holds, instead using slopers and crimps.

Start hanging footless on the big red slop-er. Campus up & left to a fat pinch, then again to the lip. True sit start (on lower holds) is about V6.

Grade: VM

An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.

A beautiful series of edges in the crack.

Climb the left arete on its right side. Sit-start, then link a collection of slopey holds up the arete.

Low traverse on the first decent sized boulder when approaching the entrance. Some sneaky holds, great problem.

Sit-start and then climb the slightly scooped wall.

Climb the hanging prow mostly on its right side from a sit start. There are numerous sequences but all start on the good incut edge & almost all use the hanging pinch.

Committing. Veer up and left to the bulge. Grope over the bulge for a vague edge in the middle of the scoop. Continue up right using some passable holds, finishing with a high step-up onto the scoop.

Climb the left side of the face. Begin on the rail, finish up the v groove.

The easiest way to the top. Climb the obvious groove. The best way down after completing boulders on the sides of Seaward Boulder.

The small overhanging face. At the top veer left. Variations exist with eliminate options.

Sit start in the middle of the wall. Climb to the seam, traverse left then mantle the lip.

Using the same sit-start as Black Out but instead climbing as per Black Wall.

Excellent boulder with some scoopy jugs. High for a boulder with a fall onto the sand. Optional sit start adds a grade. Big move to a triangular knob left of the arete.

From the central jug, dyno to the lip and exit direct.

Pull on using the obvious lightning bolt edge & another small edge, then campus up & right to a good sloper. Exit on jugs

Start as for Pro Series but exit as per Speed Freak.

The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds appear just as you need them. Top out straight up.

Start deep within the grotto matched on a flat jug, move right and out of the grotto. Exit direct.

Climb the fin-like arête from a sit start.

Simple boulder up the south side corner. Please try not to leave marks or clean them off after as this is a statue art piece.

Sit-start on jugs at the very left end of the wall. Traverse right through the obvious line while staying below the large gutter on Mon key magic. And the large breaks on both Skippy and Flex. Finish up the arete.

Start as for Te Whare Ra, gain the rising rail feature and follow it to the end.

Climb straight up to the rail on good holds.

Start with a big sidepull on the slightly overhanging wall. Gain a positive edge and reach for another edge on the lip. Trend rightwards to finish.

As for Kish Kash but head right around the arete to a ‘mail slot’ hold. From here, head straight up the wall on spaced holds. Take care on the upper section; the holds are loose & a fall could be fatal!

Avoids the good edge out left and uses small chips on the blunt arete.

Start as per Pro Series and finish up Freak Out.

Crouch-start matched in a generous undercut, link a series of pinches through the roof and exit direct.

Climb onto the ledge and then up the golden streak on the right arete.

Sit start, spanned on some sloping pinches. Pull up and right into a large sloping sidepull then lunge for the distant narrow groove.

Start on the 'Fatal Discharge' rail and traverse right using a series of slopers and edges, the 'Speed Freak' jug is out. Finish up 'Speed King'

Link Kashed Out, Kash Machine in reverse and Trigonometry. For extra points, if you’ve got something in the tank lunge left, reverse Inertia & finish up Inertia Direct. Pumpy!

Sit-start with feet under the small roof. Make a couple of hard pulls up the short wall and exit left onto the slab.

Start as per Black Wall but finish up and right.

Sit-start on the left arete and traverse right, stay below the height of the large rail at the right end of the wall.

The thin slab, which ever way you can. A jump start makes it easier.

A worthy eliminate. Sit-start with left hand in the diagonal crack. Pull up to the next diagonal crack and then make a long move left to a small gaston. Lock this and crank up to a small edge in the seam for your right hand. From here follow a series of edges left and up to the lip.