Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec El Poste | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Prueba de Tontos | 10m, 5 | Average | Fri 13th Jan 2012 | |||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec El Pilar | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Niño Chillón - with Esau | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Set this for my cousin. Nice flowy climbing on good holds!
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★ Tin-Tán (Tin-Tan) - with Maria and "the gang" | 10m, 5 | Average | Fri 11th Jan 2013 | |||
Meh...
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec Sal de mí | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Estrella de Pétalos - with Esau | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Tensiony movement on good crimps and edges. Pumpy but beautiful and fun. Going past the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset with light drops of rain falling on us was amazing! Satisfied with the OS.
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ El Nicho — 2 attempts - with Esau | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Easy climbing to a boulder problem that features sloping holds on steep terrain where body tension is necessary. Once the crux begins, there are no real rests until you clip the chains! Excellent route. The one-5.12-a-week streak is still alive!!
|
|||||||
5.7 | ★ Unknown - with Esau | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Pretty straightforward, well-protected climb on positive terrain and good holds. Good for a beginning leader!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec El Circo | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Titerotes - with Maria and "the gang" | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Jan 2013 | |||
Great solid cobbly crimpness! Awesome climbs and views
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec El Huevo Ay Nanita | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ El Hombre del Costal - with Maria, Jin, Miguel, Paul, Webb, Carina, Barry, Steve, and Loz | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||
Great, chilly, pumpy climbing at altitude, happy about this OS
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Chaneque — 2 attempts - with Tirso, Arely, Alexis | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | |||
2nd go! Lucky to have found these super dope people that could belay me seeing that Tirso and Arely had literally just learned to belay a few minutes earlier lol. Bouldery start to a rest, and then another crimpy/lockoffy/deadpointy boulder problem around the middle, finishing in pumpy moves on good holds. The streak continues!! Stoked!!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Jilotepec Comité de Bienvenida | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Nancy - with Maria and "the gang" | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||
Good I guess...
|
|||||||
5.8 | ★★ La Prima de Nancy | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Jan 2012 | |||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Los Dinamos Segundo Dinamo El perro muerto | |||||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Solovino - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 11m | Average | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | |||
Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Los Dinamos Segundo Dinamo Paroxismo | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Depredacion — 2 attempts - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | |||
Fell figuring out the first bit... Average route, first on the Segundo Dinamo. I also tried another route in this sector called Guerra Intensa 5.12b, which I didn't send due to it falling apart on the second half- must've pulled out several handholds and multiple footholds- not great...
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City Los Dinamos Primer Dinamo | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fuera de control — 2 attempts - with Esau, My parents | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Excellent first exposure to Los Dinamos!! I really don't know why I hesitated so much to come to this area in the past. Within Mexico City, and this particular crag is 5 mins away from the parking! Three-crux route (finger lock mantle, crimps to deadpoint, and some more crimps to deadpoints), where I fell in the second crux on the OS. Got it second go in front of my parents who came to visit! I got lost at the end and only just managed to clip the anchors!! The. Streak. Continues.
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ Aves de rapiña - with Esau | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Non-trivial movement near the start, as the left hand is on sidepulls and your right is pulling the wrong way on a crack. Incites pensiveness. Then the second half are straightforward moves on really good holds through the overhang. Really fun!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ A las estrellas — 2 attempts - with Esau | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Fell on the first boulder problem because I wasn't pre-clipped to the first bolt and I was required to do a somewhat insecure deadpoint. Esau did a great job spotting me! Got it immediately afterwards. Great first steep boulder problem into an easy slab, followed by another rooflet (much easier than the start), ending with long moves on good edges.
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★ Pancho en vacaciones - with Esau | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Tough for 5.9! Easiest if done without resting at all, as there is no stance that won't eventually tire you. Interesting movement through good holds and a sloping crack.
|
|||||||
North America Mexico State of Mexico and Mexico City La UNAM La Escuelita | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Desconocido 3 - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 9m | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
Easy techy climb.
|
|||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Sin Pensarlo - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Mariana, Juan | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th May 2015 | |||
First solo! Kept getting rope burnt the one day I'd been trying this route (it is kinda badly bolted), Decided to bring crashpads and be spotted by 3 people. Tested possible lowish falls at first and when conditions got worse, Decided to have a proper go. Stuck the moves perfectly and the last huge lockoff move I'd never done, I just endured for what felt like an eternity, but the feeling after catching that last edge was pure exhiliration. First 27! One of the top moments in my climbing
|
|||||||
5.10d | ★★ Unknown Name (add name if you know) | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Jan 2012 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Luna Llena | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jan 2012 | |||
5.11d | ★ Valiente LHV - with Jin, Webb, Paul, Barry and Miguel | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | Mon 7th Jan 2013 | |||
Thin! Got it third go!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ Valiente | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jan 2012 | |||
5.11b 5.10d | ★★★ Cíclope (Ciclope) - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 8m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | |||
They told me this was a 5.10... Didn't feel like it at all! Really fun, hard with all the humidity.
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Panzer - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 7m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | |||
3 shots. Great boulder problem/route. Works all the opposing climbing muscles. Reachy, strengthy, and controlled. Awesome route.
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ El Techito LHV - with Jin, Webb, Paul, Barry and Miguel | 8m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Jan 2013 | |||
Got it first go this year now that I had jeans for the sweeet kneebars!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ El Techito LHV | 8m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2012 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ El Techito | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2012 | |||
North America Mexico Querétaro Peña de Bernal Rancho Chichi'Dho El Capitan Calzon El Capitan Calzon | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Free your Spirit - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Man, it's not great to sandbag the easiest routes in this sector, especially considering there are so many people bringing beginners with no technique here!
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★★ Time to Fly - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Aaand another sandbag.
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★★ Your Sister - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Another sandbag, but an enjoyable one.
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★★ La Lechuga - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Techfest. These routes all feel harder than 5.9, but they're hella enjoyable.
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Querétaro Peña de Bernal La Peña (single & multipitch) South Wall (Bernalina Wall) | |||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★★ La Bernalina - with Barry and Webb | 220m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jan 2013 | |||
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6. A really EPIC journey that started at 11 am and finished at about 8-9 pm! Froze 'cause I decided it was going to be a quickie in the sun and did it all shirtless... On the first belay station Webb was kind enough to embrace me between his legs, thus also solving the space issue for those anchors! VERY run out, so if you're doing this, you should be confident enough at the grade that you could be soloing it! I fell asleep at the top of pitch 6, really really EPIC!!!!
|
|||||||
5.8 |
★★★ La Bernalina
- with
Maria Jose Tamayo, Esau, Pablo, Juan
1
lead by
Me
2
lead by
Juan
3
lead by
Me
4
lead by
Me
5
lead by
Juan
6
lead by
Me/Pablo
7
lead by
Juan
| 220m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2015 | |||
What an insane epic. Took out our cousins to do their first MP. Two teams, Maria and Esau, then I was with Juan and Pablo. Because none of them had their own gear, many of our QD's got used as safeties, had to run out an already f*cking run out climb, had to lead barefooted, and two of our cousins had to simulclimb on their first MP! For a moment I was soloing too. Started at 9am, finished at 11pm. Craziest MP experience ever, I feel brutalized. Happy Birthday Juan!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Salto; C.d.G. El Salto Animas Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Culo de la Negra - with Igor, Jin, Steve, and Kimberley | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Dec 2013 | |||
Extremely cool climbing from tufa to tufa at the start, followed by a powerful 3-bolt sequence which marks the crux. Can make it a little easier by wearing a left kneepad. 2nd shot! Very very very psyched to have done it Extremely cool crag, very pretty creek and waterfalls, the canyon is amazing, definitely coming back! BTW, the Tecolote cave is two river crossings away from Las Animas, and once you get to some big boulders with a third river crossing, go right instead and up to the cave!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Potrero Chico Wonder Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr. Hanky - with Maria, Steve, and Igor | 27m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2013 | |||
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Potrero Chico The Surf Bowl | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Guppie - with Igor | 29m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Dec 2013 | |||
12b in the guidebook, and feels like it too. Igor wanted to try this two-star line, so we got on the pocketed steep face with a fantastic sequence- hopefully we come back to the Surf Bowl try again! Only had one shot that day... We were at sub 10 degree temps with the clouds passing right through us, very humid and we would often have a cloud between the climber and belayer
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ Blue Fin - with Igor | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Dec 2013 | |||
First climb in this Mexico trip! We were meant to be climbing since early on the 6th, but since our flights got messed around we ended up spending the night in Houston and had to arrive on the 6th and we started climbing at around 1 pm. First part is so-so, found it scary and hard at first, with he usual adaptation period for the tricky limestone footwork- after seeing Igor on it and getting some encouragement from him, managed to send it second go! Classic kneebarry upper half First 12a!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Potrero Chico The Spires South Side | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Pangea - with Maria, Steve, and Igor | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2013 | |||
Excellent, excellent climb. Probably the best one at Potrero that we did. Last one on this trip too! Was only going to film Igor doing it, but felt compelled to try- very pumpy, pockety, sidepully, crimpy and pinchy sustaindness on gently overhanging bulletproof limestone. A MUST-DO! 2nd shot
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Potrero Chico The Spires North Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Crack Test Dummies - with Maria and Kimberley | 75m | ★ Good | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Nuevo León El Potrero Chico Lower Sense of Religion | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Abuelito Dime Tu - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 26m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall
|
|||||||
5.9 5.11+ | ★★ La Vaca - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 55m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Motavation - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2013 | |||
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ Bubble Boyz - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2013 | |||
From the guidebook, we gathered that this was the 5.12 to try at Mota Wall, and I agree! Igor was feeling a bit de-motivated to try things at Mota Wall because of the feet-intensive style, but this climb was different. Starts with some easy climbing leading up to a V3 boulder problem between the bulge and the crack, finishing with a burly mantle. After this, you get a really good rest before you have to crank up the pocketed face with small feet for about 15m of grade 22 climbing! Second go
|
|||||||
5.10d | ★★ Team Hilti - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 33m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Dec 2013 | |||
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me
|
|||||||
5.10b | ★★ Cactus Pile - with Maria and Steve | 94m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Dec 2013 | |||
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Hidalgo El Chico Las Ventanas La Botella | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ruta Noreste - with Maria and "the gang" | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jan 2013 | |||
Great, great climbing, in a great, great location, with phenomenal views
|
|||||||
North America Mexico Guerrero El Chonta El Chanchuillo | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Reina del Sur — 8 attempts - with Chrissy, Esau | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | |||
7 shots in total. Fun first session with Esau where I could do all the moves. Did 3 goes in that session, where I managed to two-hang the route. Felt far at the time. Fortunately, I videoed someone with actual good beta on the climb, which, when I went with Chrissy yesterday, I put to good use after my first attempt of the day, and on my second and third go, I one hung the route. Today, I almost sent on my first try of the day had I not tried to unnecessarily readjust. Then, after a tip from Chrissy regarding how to use a pocket, and Kashmir regarding a shoulder rest, I sent and it was glorious. Powerful, relentless, yet techy and precise. I love it, and it's I think my 60th 5.12 of this year, and I have completed my 13a pyramid! Bring on 2024!!
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ La Bocina — 2 attempts - with Alex, Hanson | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th Mar 2023 | |||
Got spit off the top again on my first go, but managed to get to the top crux with enough energy to clip the chains despite messing up down low! Super stoked! Great to be climbing in this beautiful place all to ourselves
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ La Bocina — 3 attempts - with Pablo, David, Daniel | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Mar 2023 | |||
Excellent route with good new friends from Cuernavaca! After a beta burn where Pablo and David thankfully sprayed it all to me, I got spit off the top twice! Decided to change my beta for the end. Next time!
|
|||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Guerrera Cosmica — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 32m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Feb 2024 | |||
9 days. 20+ attempts. 11- climbing to a really bad and sharp kneebar rest, to a V6/7 crux involving aa really big move to a left hand pinch on steep terrain. After an OK kneebar rest, long, steep 12- climbing to the chains, split by good kneebar rests. I managed to do all the moves during the first session, including onsighting the whole upper part. The rest of the time was spent trying the bottom part. When I did it, on the last possible attempt of the last possible day, it was the first time I stuck the crux move from the bottom. I was so excited about it that I could hardly control my breathing, let alone remember my top sequences. I commited and trusted my movement to motor memory, and focused on breathing and being patient on the rests, even though my calves and thighs were exploding in pain, pump, and exhaustion. It felt like my legs would give in before my hands and forearms. I powered through sections where I forgot how to do, and I was excited and anxious at the same time. Getting to that triangle jug before clipping the chains was great. It felt like a major milestone in my climbing- something I've wanted for so long. It is also the result of so many hours full of joy, psyche, and effort climbing alone, with friends, through frustration, happiness, but also grief and sadness. I am so thankful for life, for my friends and loved ones who accompanied me along the way, for Chrissy, with all her patient and encouraging belays, training, support, psyche (she initiated the send train by sending Amate earlier) and much more, and of course, to climbing. On to the next one!!
|
|||||||
5.12c Easy | ★★★ Amate Amarillo — 7 attempts - with John, Antonio, Amaru | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | |||
Super great ending for a great trip. I really missed this place. I also missed trying hard on a route. Tried for 3 days, 7 shots in total. Very pumpy for me, despite the rests. Nice to be climbing again!
|
|||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Amate Amarillo - with Maria Jose Tamayo | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Feb 2015 | |||
So my OS streak on el Chonta is over now... First time sport climbing in a while, and what a way to come back! Ultramarathonic route on the right side of the cave, starting at the namesake yellow amate tree. At least 40m long. Gets harder and harder as you go up, too. Can be divided into two parts: a pumpy and 3D 12a, into an active, but good rest (active sit) on a stalactite, into a 12b power endurance route with the crux protecting the anchors. 3 goes, no dice. Got stung 30+ times by bees
|
|||||||
5.11d | ★ Tomate Suavecito para el Campeón (primer largo) - with Julie and Paul | 23m, 10 | Don't Bother | Fri 6th Jan 2023 | |||
Very dirty, kinda scary, no anchors. Movement was otherwise OK.
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ El Corrido de los Procopio — 2 attempts - with Cousins | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | |||
Fun bouldery start (first 3 bolts). Eases after that. Short route for el Chonta. First 12a in a while!
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Mala Fama (primer largo) - with Igor | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 17th Dec 2013 | |||
A mega proud onsight! Since there were no draws on this, route-finding was a pump factor for sure, on this maze of stalactites and tufas! Very pumpy and bouldery at spots, but the holds are all good! Last send of the Mexico 2013/2014 trip? Felt awesome! Great rests...
|
|||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Mantis - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Dec 2013 | |||
Absolutely, positively, outstanding route. It's like every route I try here is better than the previous one. I got lucky and hit everything right on this one and got one of my best OS's! Very sweet sequences through the roof cruxes XD
|
|||||||
5.12b | ★★ La Onza — 2 attempts - with Alex, Hanson | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Mar 2023 | |||
Excellent day of climbing. Got this second go after one beta burn to figure out the crux big move. Same day I Alzheimer OS'd Mala Fama, and backjumped both climbs! Big day, and the streak of climbing at least one 5.12 a week for several weeks now is still alive! Great day to have the cave to ourselves
|
|||||||
5.10 ~5.10+ | ★★ Insecto Palo - with Cousins | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2023 | ||||
Great warm-up for other routes. Felt like 5.11- because of endurance, but maybe I have none.
|
|||||||
5.13a | ★★★ El Jaguar - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Dec 2013 | |||
This one's to come back to. I tried twice, once on our first day, and another our last. Extremely long route that traverses through a series of very conveniently shaped stalactites. A unique lay into a stalactite high above the ground! Pumpy as all hell! Igor was really really close to sending this!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ Seres Inorganicos - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Dec 2013 | |||
You know what? This here is my favorite climb EVER so far. The movement is just so fun, it's about the only climb I enjoyed a lot repeating, even though I typically never do.
|
|||||||
5.11b | ★★★ El Aliado - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Dec 2013 | |||
Excellent climbing through the tufas. First Chonta climb this trip! A great way to start! Sure beats the left of the cave, that's for sure. This became Maria's, Kimberley's, Jin's, and Steve's working project while there.
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★★ Variant Fructaliser - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Esau, JuanMa | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||
Excellent line that starts with a small traverse to a roof with compression on a big tufa, super cool tea-drinking rest, after which comes a megaclassic traverse on good holds. Reminded me of QLD climbing, not because of the style, but because of the hot weather! Long time since I wore shorts on a climb for sure. El Chonta was insectville this weekend.
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★★ Fructaliser - with Julie and Paul | 27m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Jan 2023 | |||
Pumpy and more overhung than it seems! Bit more than a warm up for me
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★★ Fructaliser (Unknown name 2) - with "the gang" | 27m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | |||
Dogged it with pretty much one fall. Crux is at the huge hole with the eagle's nest in it! Very very very cool route with a steep start!
|
|||||||
5.10c | ★ Katman (Unknown name 1) - with "the gang" | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | |||
Great scary start climbing on quality limestone! First climb in el Chonta!!!
|
|||||||
North America United States Nevada Red Rock Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry East California Crags | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Quicksand - with Maria | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Jan 2013 | ||||
This one escaped me... Flu, accumulated exhaustion, actual exhaustion, and pumpedness made me only just not get this one in four shots... One to come back for for sure! Great sequence of super moves on the roof and the route doesn't let up after the crux!
|
|||||||
5.11b | Hurricane - with Maria | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Jan 2013 | ||||
Even scarier than Cal West, follows an overhanging part into an exposed arete- again, super quality sandstone rock!
|
|||||||
5.10c | ★ Cal. West - with Maria | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Jan 2013 | |||
Easy but scary slab (with overhanging crux)! Quality, quality, quality sandstone like I've never felt before! First USA outdoor climb ever!
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Western Slope Rifle Mountain Park Sno-Cone Cave | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Rehab - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||||
I mean, I OS'd this years ago, but logging it now. It's an exceedingly chill climb. First climb with Pe and Marcelo in like 9 years! Soooooo good to see these guys after 4 years!!
|
|||||||
5.11d | ★★ Suck It and See — 2 attempts - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | ||||
Pretty much did the OS, but after doing all the hard moves, failed to see an obvious hold and fell Got it easily second go, even though I broke a pretty fat foothold, and also backtracked from a missed deadpoint!
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Western Slope Rifle Mountain Park The Nappy Dugout | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Squawk Box - with Alex from WhatsApp | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | ||||
Even the warm ups feel pumpy at Rifle Fun but unexpectedly hard!
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fossil Family — 2 attempts - with Alex from WhatsApp | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | ||||
Super hard 12a. Probably not 12a V4ish boulder problem off the bat, followed by pumpy steep climbing, finishing with another V4ish boulder problem. No real rests I could find. Had little time to rest, so will have to come back for this unique, fun climb!
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Western Slope Rifle Mountain Park Canine Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Space for the Papa - with JuanMa | 7m | ★ Good | Thu 6th Jun 2019 | |||
Short and bouldery. Definitely stick clip the first bolt. Love Rifle! First . 5.12 in a long time
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Western Slope Rifle Mountain Park The Meat Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Crime and Punishment — 3 attempts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | |||
Great pumpy climbing to a stemming rest, followed by a sequence of powerful moves on slopers. The send was super unlikely, as I felt tired and was constantly about to fall on the pre-roof, pre-rest section. Made sure I rested well, but on the final crux move, I could tell I was going to fall. Miraculously, I managed to find a left kneebar that saved the day! Stoked to send 12s in Rifle again
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | |||
Excellent (required) movement! Pumpy as per Rifle usual, but flowy and fun. Nice to have climbed on permadraws all day hehe
|
|||||||
5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | |||
Psyched to have OS'd it!! Alex had some trouble with this one being new to Rifle style. Super pumpy and on you the whole time- no rests until the chains!
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road Cactus Cliff Right Side | |||||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Cro magnum — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||
Beautiful rock and setting. Easy climbing on shaded, cold corner to a sequency boulder problem involving compression between a shallow left pocket and a right hand sidepull sloper (wide span) followed by a big, delicate move to a good edge. Something of a one move wonder, but somewhat tricky to figure out. Thanks to Chrissy, because I figured out one part, and she figured out the othe! Great end to a weekend out at Shelf. It's already so cold out!
|
|||||||
5.10a | ★★★ High Healed Titty Twister - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Excellent sport crack climbing! Very flowy. Belayed by Patrick.
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★ Shelf Pride - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | ★ Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
First climb of the day whilst it was still windy and chilly. Very runout, wakes you up! Belayed by Jakob, who suggested the route.
|
|||||||
5.10b | ★★ Cheeseburger In Paradise - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Did this one after Jakob, and it's a great bolted crack. Sometimes exposed, but cool
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★ Almost French - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
First 12a onight in years, and first 12a at Shelf! Belayed by Jakob, and he also recommended the route. Very psyched to have done this. Small holds, big moves, sequency a la Shelf!
|
|||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Legend On The Fall - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Thin, pumpy, and powerful route! The type of vertical climb which has you slapping your feet as you inch up the wall to reach the next gnarly hold. Gave it a good onsight try, listened to someone who had tried it earlier after I fell, but it turned out that my original beta was correct. Belayed by Jakob, and was the last climb of the trip! Excellent winter camping trip with new friends
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road Cactus Cliff Center Area | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Red Eclipse - with Maria and Webb | 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Awesome slab, possibly the best I've done! Crimson red limestone that is slightly run out and has several high steps and a spicy finish XD
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road Cactus Cliff Left Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Bur Har-Bur - with Maria and Webb | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Hard for 5.9! Also, very peculiar: Mid-section (the one that has the crux) suddenly goes from being limestone to being a marble-type stone, very strange!
|
|||||||
5.9 | ★ Bur Har-Bur - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | |||
Jared and I "free spirited" this one, i.e. got on it without checking the guidebook. Short and flowy. Looks like I'd done it before at one point.
|
|||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★ Blade Runner - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | |||
Thin, balancy, commiting, and crimpy. Pretty much Shelf style. Two cruxes separated by a ledge rest. Second crux is fingery, sequency and precise. Could probably get this in a few more attempts.
|
|||||||
5.8 | Kalahari Sidewinder - with Maria and Webb | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | ||||
Good chimney-ing. Shelf Rd is an awesome, awesome place to go climbing even in the winter
|
|||||||
5.8 | Kalahari Sidewinder - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | ||||
I think I did this one before. Warm up and setting up TR for peeps. Cracky.
|
|||||||
5.10d | ★ Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got Any Hangers? - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | |||
Nice short, powerful climb on pockets and good edges. End of day cleaning.
|
|||||||
5.10c 5.10b/c | ★★ Wadsworth Boulevard (Wadsworth Blvd.) - with Maria and Webb | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Discovered that laybacking is my weakness, along with freezing cold hands in combination with sketchy falls... Two shots, awesome route! Webb got injured here
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road The Bank 2150 Wall | |||||||
5.11c ~5.11b | ★★★ Lime Street - with Chrissy | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||
Great techy warmup, pumpy at the top, clipped the chains just in time!! Love Shelf and its peacefulness...
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road The Bank North Bank Cliffs | |||||||
5.12a/b ~5.12b | ★★★ Heavy Weather — 3 attempts - with Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||
Excellent and powerful and sequency pocket pulling on great, clean, vertical rock. Thank you Chrissy, for having me re-evaluate my beta and making it so much easier on my 3rd go! Hardest I've sent in Shelf so far. Felt a lot more like 12b to me, and Mountain Project says 12a/b which would make more sense to me.
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road The Bank Piggy Bank | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ The sweepings - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Got on this after I saw Jared insert himself into the offwidth. He belayed me as I made my way up with kneebars and jams!
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★ Pink torpedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Jakob asked me to put this up all the way to the second anchors. Belayed by him, I had the chance to assess the top crux from the ledge where the first anchors are. Sequency combination of underclings get you past the rooflet crux, quickly followed by a high step crux on a pocket to a textured flat ledge. Great to onsight this!
|
|||||||
5.11a | ★★ Flesh tuxedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Warm-up thinking it was 10a. Belayed by Gemma. Hung tight on the crux where you need to lock off as you reach to edges and pockets whilst you can't see your feet. Fist climb of the trip!
|
|||||||
5.11b | ★★ Disciples of hell - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 9 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Great end of day climb! Overhanging and exposed- very scenic! Belayed by Jakob.
|
|||||||
5.11c | ★★ Generation x - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Vertical, balancy, and sequency edge climbing with good stances between cruxes. Belayed by Jared, whilst talking with a 55 year old telling us about his skiing days in Bosnia. Great feeling to onsight this!
|
|||||||
North America United States Colorado Shelf Road Sand Gulch Freeform Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Barney - with Chrissy | 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
Warm up on a cold crack.
|
|||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freeform — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
Placed draws coming down from the climb next door. Beautiful route with sculpted edges, deep pockets, and cool jugs. Slightly overhanging after a crimpy reachy crux at the bottom. Second half is a pocket haul to gain good edges over a rooflet, the mantle of which marks the end of the climb. Cold late October day with wind made me wear a neck liner, beanie and fleece on the send. Bad news: moving out of a pocket my left middle finger got stuck and it creaked in a not awesome way, overextending at the joints. Though I fought it and sent after the fact, it does seem injured. How much it will affect my Leonido trip we will see.
|