Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12b | ★★★ Mantis - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 35m, 15 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Dec 2013 | |||
Absolutely, positively, outstanding route. It's like every route I try here is better than the previous one. I got lucky and hit everything right on this one and got one of my best OS's! Very sweet sequences through the roof cruxes XD
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5.12a | ★★★ Mala Fama (primer largo) - with Igor | 35m, 15 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 17th Dec 2013 | |||
A mega proud onsight! Since there were no draws on this, route-finding was a pump factor for sure, on this maze of stalactites and tufas! Very pumpy and bouldery at spots, but the holds are all good! Last send of the Mexico 2013/2014 trip? Felt awesome! Great rests...
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5.9 5.11+ | ★★ La Vaca - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 55m | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!
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5.11d | ★★ Elanor - with Florian | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Jun 2023 | ||||
Got on this after sending Tell-Tale Heart! It looked onsighteable, so why not try it out? Psyched about the OS. Crimpy layback moves on smeary feet followed by big moves on big holds. Redpoint crux is a big move to an OK 2-pad hold that guards the anchor. Stoked! Florian got TTH right after for the send train!
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5.11d | ★★ Eiger Direct - with Patrick, Ken, Kyra, Alex | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
Pretty nice route! The rain erased all chalk everywhere except underneath the rooflet, which turned out not to be a crux at all. Pretty crimpy after the rooflet, and this was compounded by me looking everywhere for holds. Felt good to get a "pure onsight" on such a classic with friends I hadn't hung out with in a minute!
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5.11d | ★★★ Glitter And Doom - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | |||
Really happy about this OS! Found a key kneebar (more like kneescum) right at the crux, and stemmed my way out. A bit dirty, but a great climb nonetheless!
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5.12a | ★★ Almost French - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | Shelf Road | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
First 12a onight in years, and first 12a at Shelf! Belayed by Jakob, and he also recommended the route. Very psyched to have done this. Small holds, big moves, sequency a la Shelf!
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5.11c | ★★ Variant Fructaliser - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Esau, JuanMa | 24m, 8 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||
Excellent line that starts with a small traverse to a roof with compression on a big tufa, super cool tea-drinking rest, after which comes a megaclassic traverse on good holds. Reminded me of QLD climbing, not because of the style, but because of the hot weather! Long time since I wore shorts on a climb for sure. El Chonta was insectville this weekend.
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5.11c | ★★ Generation x - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | Shelf Road | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Vertical, balancy, and sequency edge climbing with good stances between cruxes. Belayed by Jared, whilst talking with a 55 year old telling us about his skiing days in Bosnia. Great feeling to onsight this!
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5.11c | ★ Pink torpedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | Shelf Road | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | ||||
Jakob asked me to put this up all the way to the second anchors. Belayed by him, I had the chance to assess the top crux from the ledge where the first anchors are. Sequency combination of underclings get you past the rooflet crux, quickly followed by a high step crux on a pocket to a textured flat ledge. Great to onsight this!
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5.11c | ★★ Estrella de Pétalos - with Esau | 21m, 9 | Jilotepec | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Tensiony movement on good crimps and edges. Pumpy but beautiful and fun. Going past the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset with light drops of rain falling on us was amazing! Satisfied with the OS.
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5.11c | ★★★ Curvaceous - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 31m, 15 | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | |||
Excellent flowy climbing on great holds with a steep roof on jugs to boot! End of day climb on a perfect July morning with Alex and Nicole!
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5.11b | ★★ El Hombre del Costal - with Maria, Jin, Miguel, Paul, Webb, Carina, Barry, Steve, and Loz | 17m, 9 | Jilotepec | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||
Great, chilly, pumpy climbing at altitude, happy about this OS
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5.11b | ★★★ El Aliado - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | El Chonta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Dec 2013 | |||
Excellent climbing through the tufas. First Chonta climb this trip! A great way to start! Sure beats the left of the cave, that's for sure. This became Maria's, Kimberley's, Jin's, and Steve's working project while there.
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5.11b | ★★★ Li'l Dog - with Matt | 27m, 12 | Denver | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Excellent meandery route that ends with a steep section with cool holds
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5.11b | ★★ Disciples of hell - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 9 | Shelf Road | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Great end of day climb! Overhanging and exposed- very scenic! Belayed by Jakob.
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5.11b | ★★ The Clipboard - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Matt | 15m | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jun 2021 | |||
Couple of years back I think. Logging the ascent for completeness. I think I met Ella on that trip (and Matt met her there too)!
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5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | Rifle Mountain Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | |||
Psyched to have OS'd it!! Alex had some trouble with this one being new to Rifle style. Super pumpy and on you the whole time- no rests until the chains!
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5.11b | ★★ Refer Madness - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 18m, 7 | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jul 2023 | |||
Nice crimpy sequency climb with some cool deadpoints on jugs! Felt short after having done Patience Face and Wet Dream
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5.11b | ★★ Touch Monkey - with Matt | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | ||||
Did it partially in the sun. Great steep, sometimes insecure climbing on mostly good holds. Short and intense. Great fun!
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5.11b | ★★ Father Figure - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | |||
Thin feet at times, cool, long moves. If only it were longer!
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5.11b/c | ★★ Shady Deal - with Mellow Patrick | 7 | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | |||
Looks insecure when belaying, but feels OK when climbing because it is exceedingly well bolted. Tricky crux for sure- uncomfortable moves to not-great holds at the end! Stemmy and precise.
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5.11c ~5.11b | ★★★ Lime Street - with Chrissy | 20m, 6 | Shelf Road | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | |||
Great techy warmup, pumpy at the top, clipped the chains just in time!! Love Shelf and its peacefulness...
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5.11a | ★★★ Motavation - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 26m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2013 | |||
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.
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5.11a | ★★ Seres Inorganicos - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Dec 2013 | |||
You know what? This here is my favorite climb EVER so far. The movement is just so fun, it's about the only climb I enjoyed a lot repeating, even though I typically never do.
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5.11a | ★★ Joint Venture - with Maria Jose Tamayo | 27m, 9 | Boulder | ★ Good | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | |||
Good route, although a bit scary with the runouts!
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5.11a | ★★ Flesh tuxedo - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Warm-up thinking it was 10a. Belayed by Gemma. Hung tight on the crux where you need to lock off as you reach to edges and pockets whilst you can't see your feet. Fist climb of the trip!
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5.11a | ★★ Aves de rapiña - with Esau | 15m, 6 | Los Dinamos | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Non-trivial movement near the start, as the left hand is on sidepulls and your right is pulling the wrong way on a crack. Incites pensiveness. Then the second half are straightforward moves on really good holds through the overhang. Really fun!
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5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | Rifle Mountain Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Jul 2023 | |||
Excellent (required) movement! Pumpy as per Rifle usual, but flowy and fun. Nice to have climbed on permadraws all day hehe
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5.11a/b | ★★★ Systemic Risk - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | |||
Great route, and first I've done in the area! Great company too. The area has Coolum-like features, and climbs like it, only less steep. Kneebars are abundant.
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5.10d | ★★★ El Techito | 8m, 3 | La UNAM | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Jan 2012 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Red Eclipse - with Maria and Webb | 4 | Shelf Road | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Awesome slab, possibly the best I've done! Crimson red limestone that is slightly run out and has several high steps and a spicy finish XD
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5.10d | ★★ Team Hilti - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 33m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Dec 2013 | |||
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me
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5.11b 5.10d | ★★★ Cíclope (Ciclope) - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 8m, 4 | La UNAM | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | |||
They told me this was a 5.10... Didn't feel like it at all! Really fun, hard with all the humidity.
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5.10d | ★★★ The Reaper - with Matt | 23m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | |||
Really nice movement on quality granite holds. Small crux at the bottom involving a long move from a good crimp.
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5.10d | ★ Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got Any Hangers? - with Jared, Patrick, Alex | 4 | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | |||
Nice short, powerful climb on pockets and good edges. End of day cleaning.
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5.10d | ★ Shades of Murky Depths - with Ben, Amber | Fort Collins | ★ Good | Sun 26th Feb 2023 | ||||
Thought I was on the 5.8 warmup. Told Ben this seemed like a stiff 5.8. Turns out I was right!
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5.10d | ★ Warm Up - with Florian | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jun 2023 | ||||
OS'd this years ago (also on 6/8/23), so logging it now as an OS. We used it, as the name suggests, as a warm-up for Tell Tale Heart. 7 AM climbing in rainy afternoons/evenings make for really nice conditions! Watch the crack/transition between the wall on the left and the dihedral- some rope can get stuck there when giving slack for the anchor, and you need to take harder on the anchor than you would think! Techy dihedral with no real hard moves.
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5.10d | ★★ Happy Ending - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | |||
Very cool route! Did it as the last climb of the day at dusk. Jug hauling pretty much all the way!
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5.10c | ★★ Luna Llena | 8m, 3 | La UNAM | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jan 2012 | |||
5.10c | ★ Cal. West - with Maria | 26m | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Jan 2013 | |||
Easy but scary slab (with overhanging crux)! Quality, quality, quality sandstone like I've never felt before! First USA outdoor climb ever!
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5.10c | ★★ Titerotes - with Maria and "the gang" | 23m, 8 | Jilotepec | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Jan 2013 | |||
Great solid cobbly crimpness! Awesome climbs and views
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5.10c | ★ Katman (Unknown name 1) - with "the gang" | 25m, 14 | El Chonta | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | |||
Great scary start climbing on quality limestone! First climb in el Chonta!!!
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5.10c | ★★ Reincarnation - with Matt | 23m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | |||
Nice warm-up on flowy and pumpy moves for 10c.
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5.10c | ★★ The sweepings - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 6 | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Got on this after I saw Jared insert himself into the offwidth. He belayed me as I made my way up with kneebars and jams!
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5.10c | ★★ Squawk Box - with Alex from WhatsApp | Rifle Mountain Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Jul 2023 | ||||
Even the warm ups feel pumpy at Rifle Fun but unexpectedly hard!
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5.10b | ★★ Cactus Pile - with Maria and Steve | 94m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Dec 2013 | |||
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!
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5.10b | ★★ People's Choice - with Ben | 50m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Jun 2023 | |||
Great dihedral climbing with the crux pitch being the last one and the crux of that being a mantle on no holds! Ben solo'd the second pitch cuz he went off route. Kinda stressful for me, but hey, climbing is all about adventure??
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5.10b/c | ★★ Solovino - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 11m | Los Dinamos | Average | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | |||
Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!
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5.10b | ★★★ Splitting Hares - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | |||
Warming up. Interesting moves on curtain-like terrain. Flowy in a way.
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5.10 ~5.10+ | ★★ Insecto Palo - with Cousins | El Chonta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2023 | ||||
Great warm-up for other routes. Felt like 5.11- because of endurance, but maybe I have none.
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5.10a | ★★ Desconocido 3 - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 9m | La UNAM | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
Easy techy climb.
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5.10a | ★★★ High Healed Titty Twister - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | Shelf Road | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Excellent sport crack climbing! Very flowy. Belayed by Patrick.
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5.10a | ★★★ Six Feet Under - with Ben, Patrick, Alex, Kyra, Jared, Jonathan, Maja, Ken | 24m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||
Really nice, gym bolted warm-up. Lots of "fake news", i.e. non-holds with chalk in them.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Tower - with Chrissy | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | ||||
Flowy warmup up a meandery slab, to a rooflet, to a stem, etc. A tour of the basics of Boulder Canyon, basically.
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5.9 | ★ Bur Har-Bur - with Maria and Webb | 17m, 5 | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Hard for 5.9! Also, very peculiar: Mid-section (the one that has the crux) suddenly goes from being limestone to being a marble-type stone, very strange!
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5.9 | ★★ Nancy - with Maria and "the gang" | 8m, 5 | Jilotepec | ★ Good | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||
Good I guess...
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5.9 | ★ Tin-Tán (Tin-Tan) - with Maria and "the gang" | 10m, 5 | Jilotepec | Average | Fri 11th Jan 2013 | |||
Meh...
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5.9 | ★★ Ruta Noreste - with Maria and "the gang" | 18m | El Chico | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jan 2013 | |||
Great, great climbing, in a great, great location, with phenomenal views
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5.8 5.9 | ★★★ La Bernalina - with Barry and Webb | 220m, 10 | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jan 2013 | |||
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6. A really EPIC journey that started at 11 am and finished at about 8-9 pm! Froze 'cause I decided it was going to be a quickie in the sun and did it all shirtless... On the first belay station Webb was kind enough to embrace me between his legs, thus also solving the space issue for those anchors! VERY run out, so if you're doing this, you should be confident enough at the grade that you could be soloing it! I fell asleep at the top of pitch 6, really really EPIC!!!!
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5.9 | ★ Crack Test Dummies - with Maria and Kimberley | 75m | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!
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5.9 | ★★ La Lechuga - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Techfest. These routes all feel harder than 5.9, but they're hella enjoyable.
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5.9 | ★★ Your Sister - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Another sandbag, but an enjoyable one.
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5.9 | ★★ Time to Fly - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Aaand another sandbag.
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5.9 | ★★ Free your Spirit - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | Peña de Bernal | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Man, it's not great to sandbag the easiest routes in this sector, especially considering there are so many people bringing beginners with no technique here!
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5.9 | ★★ Animation - with Maria Jose Tamayo | 30m, 10 | Boulder | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Aug 2019 | |||
5.8 in the guidebook. Super flowy, and feels even better with not-scorching temps. Great intro to a great area!
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5.9 | ★★ Unfamiliar Strangers - with Maria Jose Tamayo | 26m, 10 | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Aug 2019 | |||
Hard start for 5.9. After that, it's pure enjoyment.
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5.9 | ★ Shelf Pride - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 7 | Shelf Road | ★ Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
First climb of the day whilst it was still windy and chilly. Very runout, wakes you up! Belayed by Jakob, who suggested the route.
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5.9 | ★ Pancho en vacaciones - with Esau | 10m, 4 | Los Dinamos | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Tough for 5.9! Easiest if done without resting at all, as there is no stance that won't eventually tire you. Interesting movement through good holds and a sloping crack.
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5.9 | ★★ Barney - with Chrissy | 10 | Shelf Road | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
Warm up on a cold crack.
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5.8 | ★★ La Prima de Nancy | 14m, 9 | Jilotepec | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Jan 2012 | |||
5.8 | ★★ A Prueba de Tontos | 10m, 5 | Jilotepec | Average | Fri 13th Jan 2012 | |||
5.8 | Kalahari Sidewinder - with Maria and Webb | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | ||||
Good chimney-ing. Shelf Rd is an awesome, awesome place to go climbing even in the winter
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5.8 | ★★ Abuelito Dime Tu - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 26m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | |||
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall
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5.8 | ★★ Mr. Hanky - with Maria, Steve, and Igor | 27m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2013 | |||
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds
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5.8 | ★ Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines - with Dana, Maria Jose Tamayo | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jan 2017 | ||||
Starting the year off right! Rakkup is a good guidebook app, proving its worth when used on the first day of the year. Didn't know what to expect climbing in the CO winter, but turned out to be excellent friction and enough heat provided by the sun. This shall be our winter crag. Sussing out the style with this route, and it was great! Expected a KP, but this is way better. All grades are sandbagged, but will try to direct my attention to climb quality in this crag instead Easy climbing with a couple of rooflets with interesting moves, great climb!
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5.8 | ★★ Niño Chillón - with Esau | 7m, 4 | Jilotepec | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Set this for my cousin. Nice flowy climbing on good holds!
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5.7 | ★★ Potholes - with Maria | 18m, 5 | Colorado Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Jan 2013 | |||
Because ethics here are no chalk that is not the color of the rock, and because the rock never sees the sun, and because it is so run out and you're actually clipping pitons, it was cold and scary- but a lot of fun and with great views, excellent to be able to climb in this unique place. Unfortunately, that was the only climb we did that day (followed by some great burgers at this little diner in a forgotten part of town)
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5.7 | ★ Unknown - with Esau | 11m, 5 | Jilotepec | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||
Pretty straightforward, well-protected climb on positive terrain and good holds. Good for a beginning leader!
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5.7 | ★ Rehab - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | Rifle Mountain Park | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||||
I mean, I OS'd this years ago, but logging it now. It's an exceedingly chill climb. First climb with Pe and Marcelo in like 9 years! Soooooo good to see these guys after 4 years!!
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5.12b | ★★★ Lucky Strikes - with Flo | 9 | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||
Best flash of the year, and best in a long time! Flo went first and figured out the moves and set the draws. His beta fit my style perfectly. Bouldery first section followed by 5.11 pumpy climbing with thinnish feet. Excellent feeling, right when the sun was beginning to peek at the wall! Stoked! Flo got it straight after
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5.12a | ★★ Mercy Drilling - with Datus | 6 | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Aug 2023 | |||
OMG!! Hardest flash all year!! I had seen Datus' beta, which definitely helped. Unique climb, as it could be a trad climb in that there is jamming in hands, fingers, and feet, with a powerful crux. I screamed through it all, and got through all of it! Incredible feeling. Definitely improved my day, as I had been distracted with other concerning things.
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5.11b | ★★ Hot Dog - with Matt | 17m, 8 | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Thin delicate slab to start with followed by a very cool overhang traverse on nicely textured granite. Very pumpy!
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5.11a | ★★ Ernest Stemmingway - with Matt | 24m, 10 | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | |||
Did it after Matt. Long route that is not pumpy and only has a couple of techy but high quality hard sections.
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5.10d | ★★ Introducing Meteor Dad - with Edel, Ben, Patrick | Fort Collins | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Mar 2023 | ||||
Super nice slab with unique movement, including high heel cranking and triceps mantling on slopey shelves. Kinda run out, but definitely a worthy slab!
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5.10b | ★★ Cheeseburger In Paradise - with Jakob, Patrick, Jared, Alex, Gemma, Michael, Ben, Carrie, Amber | 8 | Shelf Road | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Did this one after Jakob, and it's a great bolted crack. Sometimes exposed, but cool
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5.10a | ★★ Dog Breath - with Matt | 23m, 10 | Denver | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Second warm up of the day. Very cool overhanging sections with great holds!
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5.10a | ★★★ Mr. Sandman - with Flo | 10 | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||
Great way to start the day (7 AM session)! Flo set the draws on this long, varied, meandery expedition, and I did it next for warm up. Nice to be in a place in Boulder Canyon without view of the highway, and instead the sound and view of forests, mountains, and waterfalls.
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5.9 ~5.10a | Bone Daddy - with Matt | 18m | Denver | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | ||||
10a in the guidebook. Very exposed but cool climbing.
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5.9 | ★★ Black Dog - with Matt | 23m, 10 | Denver | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Warm up. Very nice rock in this crag- almost RMNP bouldering rock!
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5.8 | ★★ Cruisin' Caskets - with Patrick, Ken | 23m, 9 | Denver | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Feb 2023 | |||
Pretty good warm-down on a juggy meander to wrap up a pretty darn good day.
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5.12d | ★★★ Reina del Sur — 8 attempts - with Chrissy, Esau | 25m, 10 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | |||
7 shots in total. Fun first session with Esau where I could do all the moves. Did 3 goes in that session, where I managed to two-hang the route. Felt far at the time. Fortunately, I videoed someone with actual good beta on the climb, which, when I went with Chrissy yesterday, I put to good use after my first attempt of the day, and on my second and third go, I one hung the route. Today, I almost sent on my first try of the day had I not tried to unnecessarily readjust. Then, after a tip from Chrissy regarding how to use a pocket, and Kashmir regarding a shoulder rest, I sent and it was glorious. Powerful, relentless, yet techy and precise. I love it, and it's I think my 60th 5.12 of this year, and I have completed my 13a pyramid! Bring on 2024!!
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5.12d | ★★★ Guerrera Cosmica — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 32m, 17 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Feb 2024 | |||
9 days. 20+ attempts. 11- climbing to a really bad and sharp kneebar rest, to a V6/7 crux involving aa really big move to a left hand pinch on steep terrain. After an OK kneebar rest, long, steep 12- climbing to the chains, split by good kneebar rests. I managed to do all the moves during the first session, including onsighting the whole upper part. The rest of the time was spent trying the bottom part. When I did it, on the last possible attempt of the last possible day, it was the first time I stuck the crux move from the bottom. I was so excited about it that I could hardly control my breathing, let alone remember my top sequences. I commited and trusted my movement to motor memory, and focused on breathing and being patient on the rests, even though my calves and thighs were exploding in pain, pump, and exhaustion. It felt like my legs would give in before my hands and forearms. I powered through sections where I forgot how to do, and I was excited and anxious at the same time. Getting to that triangle jug before clipping the chains was great. It felt like a major milestone in my climbing- something I've wanted for so long. It is also the result of so many hours full of joy, psyche, and effort climbing alone, with friends, through frustration, happiness, but also grief and sadness. I am so thankful for life, for my friends and loved ones who accompanied me along the way, for Chrissy, with all her patient and encouraging belays, training, support, psyche (she initiated the send train by sending Amate earlier) and much more, and of course, to climbing. On to the next one!!
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5.12c Easy | ★★★ Amate Amarillo — 7 attempts - with John, Antonio, Amaru | 35m, 16 | El Chonta | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | |||
Super great ending for a great trip. I really missed this place. I also missed trying hard on a route. Tried for 3 days, 7 shots in total. Very pumpy for me, despite the rests. Nice to be climbing again!
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5.12c | ★★★ Fapanese Direct — 5 attempts - with Chrissy | Boulder | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Aug 2023 | ||||
First 12c outside of El Chonta this year! Very much up my alley. Easy climbing to slopers and a powerful-to-place kneebar on a roof, followed by intertwined crimp traversing and powerful moves on the lip of the roof. Pumpy climbing follows. Thank you Chrissy for the belay and video!!!
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5.12c | ★★★ The Road — 3 attempts - with Chrissy, Jonathan | 9m | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||
What an unforgettable ascent. All-time moment FOR SURE. As Chrissy and Jonathan worked Over the Top (which both of them seeeent!!), I, shoulder recently semi-tweaked, wasn't sure what I was gonna do. I was so close to just belaying and taking it easy, as I was leaving for Kalymnos that very afternoon. I warmed up just in case. My shoulder was feeling OK, so I decided to give this one a good flash try after being sprayed by Chrissy. Got a good first burn in, but it started raining. I got to the top and fully expected to clean the route. My friends told me to leave it up, as I wondered how it would be possible to get up it again. I am so glad they had this kind of patience and psyche to climb. After the rain passed and the rock (sort of) dried, I gave it a determined second go. After the crux move at the lip of the slopers, I took a HUGE whipper which was pretty fun and funny. I said "no way" and wanted to try again immediately. I rested a couple minutes, and went up again. What followed was a screamfest assembled of extremely unlikely sticks to sub-optimal slopers for the entire climb, even to the clipping of the chains. I have never tried so hard on a climb, ever. I was completely overjoyed with such an unlikely send, but mainly because I didn't know I could dig that deep. I felt the consequences after for sure, which was a second confirmation that I did indeed access a level of effort previously unknown to me. What a prelude to Kalymnos!!
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5.12b | ★★★ Big Dog — 2 attempts - with Matt | 21m, 10 | Denver | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
First Colorado 12b!! Super psyched. I did not suspect I would send this after my working attempt, at which point it felt like it was going to be a multi-day project. Beta was very well executed, and this thing does not let up until the anchors
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5.12b | ★★ Fiddler on the Woof — 3 attempts - with Rob, Sarah, John, Matt | 15m, 9 | Denver | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||
Had nobody to climb with, and the forecast for next week was grim, and I was leaving for 2 months after that! So I drove up by myself, not being sure how the weather was going to be, or if I would have people to climb with. Found a very friendly crew and gave this thing a shot! 3 goes, super fun route with big moves to big holds
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5.12b | ★★ La Onza — 2 attempts - with Alex, Hanson | 30m, 16 | El Chonta | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Mar 2023 | |||
Excellent day of climbing. Got this second go after one beta burn to figure out the crux big move. Same day I Alzheimer OS'd Mala Fama, and backjumped both climbs! Big day, and the streak of climbing at least one 5.12 a week for several weeks now is still alive! Great day to have the cave to ourselves
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5.12b | ★★ Prince of Thieves — 2 attempts - with Ben | 11 | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Jun 2023 | |||
Quickest 12b in a while! Rode the send train kicked off by Ben after he did his best OS ever! This is #20! Also in a drizzle, just like #19! A couple of boulder problems separated by 5.10 climbing.
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