Routes as alpine in North America

Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing.

A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked).

This climb sees the most traffic out of all moderate climbs in the area. With a relatively short approach, bolted anchors, and a bolted rap line, this is one of the least committing climbs in the bugs.

Approach: From Appleby camp, head up the north moraine (behind the water tap) and navigate left of the first lake, up and around the right of the second lake. The climb you're looking for is in the obvious dihedral on the arete of the crescent spire.

1. 5.9 35m - Climb dihedrals and flakes to a slung horn below the dihedral. Either belay from there or climb to the base of the finger crack heading up the left side of the dihedral (gear anchor).

2. 5.10- 35m - follow the finger crack to a platform. Keep going up in a short dihedral to find the bolted anchor.

3. 5.4 15m - Head up and right through broken terrain to find a short (4-5m) 5.4 crack. Alternatively, if comfortable on the terrain, you can solo around the big boulder on the right to avoid the 5.4 (4th class).

4. 5.9 35m - Most people consider this pitch to be the crux of the climb. Follow two parallel hand/fist cracks to a first small overhang. Hands and fists crack brings you to a second overhang. A platform offers you a well-deserved rest for the feet. Keep going up using blocks in a larger crack and a finger crack on the right. From the large ledge, either build a gear anchor below the next pitch or walk left to a bolted anchor (some parties may be using it on the descent).

5. 5.8 35m - Climb the crack system directly above the last pitch. (If using the left anchor, consider extending it to belay more easily. Bolted anchor.

6. 5.7 30m - Often skipped since the previous anchor leads to the rappel route. Scramble easily to the ridge, making a few low fifth moves.

Descent: Either walk east to find the descent gully between the crescent spire and crescent towers or rappel the McTech rappel line.

McTech rappel line: From the anchor of pitch 5, make 6 single rope rappels to the ground or 4 double rope rappels. From the ridge, find a bolted anchor about 20m up and (climber's) left from the anchor of pitch 5. Note: Although the guidebook notes the rappels as 28-30m, many parties have found themselves 1-2m short of the next station when using a single 60m.

The west ridge of Pigeon Spire is a bugaboo classic, and you will be sure to meet other parties on route. The majority of parties choose to simul-climb the route as it is predominantly 4th class, with a handful of 5m 5.4 steps. Mountain boots are recommended for the B-S Col and Vowell Glacier, but once you are at the ridge you can swap to approach shoes to make the climbing easier.

Follow the upper Vowell glacier to the toe of Pigeon Spire's west ridge, Just above the Pigeon-Howser Col. You can ditch your glacier gear, ice axes, and crampons here. Next scramble up the ridge, taking the path of least resistance. The majority of the time you will be on, or just below the ridge crest but never more than 5m away from it.

From the first summit descent down 4th class slabs, the climb up to the second summit may appear steep at first, but quickly grows into a blocky nature and is never more than 4th class. A narrow section of the ridge is best done Au Cheval.

From the second summit contour right and down a short 5th class crack system to a col with the main summit. Continue down and left under the main summit across icy or snow-covered ramps to a short blocky chimney. Scramble this then continue left either through a chimney or taking a short handrail on the outside of it. once at the end of the handrail follow broken cracks up to the main summit block.

Descent

Do two 30m raps from bolted stations off the main summit block down towards the icey ramps you scrambled across earlier. Then reverse the route you scrambled up, downclimbing where necessary.

At 1,500 ft. Tenaya Peak is long. It offers low grade friction climbing with only a few sections in the 5.5 range.

A 5.6 or so crack variation on the top pitch is available for those wanting something a bit spicier.

The full traverse from north tip to south tip, inclusive of north and south summits clocks in at 1300M. Most people rap down after the south summit and most of the difficulties come after this point.

This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's more than 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.

1. From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

2. Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

3. Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)

4. Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.

5. Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)

6. Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)

7. Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)

8. Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.

9. Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)

10. To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)

11. This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)

12. Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)

13. Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)

14. Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)

15. This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10+ or A0)

From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.

Begins in left facing corner just left of the mountaineers route. Mountaineers route is the only real option to descend back to iceberg lake. No bail options without leaving gear.

This is a great route, it has 8 pitches and is slightly runout on easy terrain at the top. It is very crowded and in my opinion not nearly as good as the slightly harder and more sustained Culp-Bossier on Hallett Peak. Give yourself plenty of time to do this one as four rappels are required to reach the ground. The summit is awesome and the upper pitches are high quality. The first few pitches aren't as fun and kind of mungy.

From Charles Vernon:

Approach by parking at the Glacier Gorge juntion trailhead (about a mile before Bear Lake) and follow the signs for about 4 miles to Sky Pond. Scramble up talus to the base of the Petit, which is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth. The Saber will be prominent to the right.

P1 - Aim for a groove in the center of the steadily narrowing South Face, and climb that for a long easy pitch to a grassy ledge.

P2-enter a giant chimney in the center of the face and belay on top of a chockstone (5.6, 100 feet).

P3-Take the left-slanting line out of the cave and belay on a large ledge below a smaller chimney (5.7, 140 feet).

P4-Climb the chimney, then traverse right to a belay below the right end of a roof (5.6, 120 feet).

P5-Head straight up at 5.9, or pull around to the right on easier rock (spotty pro either way). Climb up a steep crack, into a left facing corner with a beautiful finger crack, and proceed to a ledge on the east side of the Petit (sustained 5.8, 120 feet).

P6- climb up, head right and then back left to a small stance on the southeast arete--the Pizza Pan Belay (5.7, 130 feet).

P7-climb the crack above the belay to a ledge, and climb straight up the wall, then slightly up right to belay just below the ridgeline (or on it if you have enough rope) (5.7, 160 feet).

P8-gain the ridge, then follow it up to the spectacular summit (5.6 or 5.7, 80-90 feet).

Descent: rappel off of fixed anchors at the northest corner of the summit. Either swing right to a ledge after about 140 feet, or continue on to more hard to see bolts further down. If taking the first option, look for a deep chimney to the north, and climb it up to the saddle between the Sharkstooth and the Saber. From there, descend the 3rd class gash to the north, the hike out the drainage, following a trail which rejoins the Sky Pond trail, thereupon taking the appropriate direction depending upon where your equipment is. It is also possible to traverse east behind the Saber from the saddle and desend a gully (possibly necessitating a short rappel or two), which leads to the talus above Sky Pond-- though I haven't done this.

One more note of caution--some guidebooks describe a "5.4" variation to the right of the first five pitches of the route which purportedly bypasses the crux and leads straight to the south face. That is completely bogus--I have searched in every conceivable spot, and there is no way to bypass the traditional crux at 5.4 from the so-called "second terrace". Don't count on it. Alternate descent description Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all

1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 feet.

2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 feet.

3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. Addendum: it's exposed clipping the anchor.

4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' feet.

5. A 200+' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. Addendum: you may not reach this anchor, but there is a slung boulder at ~165' to make a short additional rap.

6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.

Approach: From Dade Lake hike across benches and then snow up to just right of the lowest point of the buttress (37.37028, -118.76723). (5 miles, 2,500 ft from Little Lakes Trailhead to route start)

Descent: Descend down Class 4 rocks on the East side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards at the notch. There are two optional rappels down the snow/scree that bring you 2/3 down the slope. Follow steps back to Dade Lake.

(Due to lots of talus, there are little good bivys above Gem Lakes until you reach Northside of Dade Lake.)

The North Arête takes the most compelling line on Bear Creek Spire. The climb is typical for a Sierra route: lots of cracks, broken rock, and mostly face climbing and stemming with a few mandatory hand jams. Both cruxes involve steep stemming on awkward large flakes. The climb is easily divided in two halves. The first half climbs a striking arête/pillar with steep 5.7 and 5.8 sections separated by fourth class. The second half ascends an exposed 4th class ridge. Because only the first half is visible from the base, many climbers underestimate the length of the climb.

Close to camp and often climbed on "rest days" or as an introduction to the area. The first two pitches are optional and can be avoided by following a long ramp starting much further left. If you are comfortable at the grade, the direct start is a much more enjoyable option.

1. 5.8 30m - Find the "A" shaped cracks and climb the right side to an alcove.

2. 5.8 30-70m - Climb out of the alcove on the right and climb up multiple discontinued vertical cracks, pinching, and jamming. Great exposure. Belay after the vertical part or scramble up as far as rope drag and length will allow.

3. 5.5 50-70m - Scramble up easier terrain, staying just right of the steeper wall. Again, go as far as possible. Multiple ledges and anchor options.

4. You might have to do one more pitch of low fifth if you didn't do long pitches on 2 and 3.

5. 5.7 40m - Keep scrambling up and make your way to a left-leaning ramp with one awkward move to access it.

6. 5.8 40m - Climb up cracks and belay on a small ledge after a bulky move, right below the chimney.

7. 5.8 40m - This is the money pitch! Make sure it's yours! Climb the obvious chimey with wedged blocks to make it between the ears.

8. 4th class 15m - Climb to the eastern ear.

Descent: Downclimb or do a short rappel to regain the ledge between the ears then head around the back of the eastern ear. Do two single rope rappels and follow the ridge to gain the Cressent-Eastpost col.

A great first summit close to camp to get an understanding of the area.

Go along close to the crest (left side) of ridge on various trails for about 1 hour for about 500 m. until hit first rock band – 30 m high wall. Checked down and left but couldn’t find easy spot. Apparently the easy scramble route is farther uphill to the right. We went up a 5.4 groove for 30 m and then scrambled some slabs and trees for another 50 m.

Put rope away if used it as it is another 1 hour as go up scree, small rock bands and treed ridge until hit second rock band which is 50m+ wall. Lots of cairns and we went down and left to the find the 5.5 layback crack beside a big tree. Need a left hand underhand move to go up this and some people rate it at 5.4. Good protection placements in crack. Top of ridge in another 20 m.

Now on rock ridge, go over exposed knife edge sections, some bolts(hangers removed as of aug/2011) and over one 5.2 tower. Put away the rope again for 20 -30 min as hike down scree and back up along broad ridge as it turns left. Scramble around some towers and up to a large tower/rock band that blocks the ridge. The trails leads right for 100 m along a 10 m wide ledge at the base of the band and then up easy rock for 15m to another ledge at the base of second rock band. Traverse back left to the top of the tower and then up onto upper rock band/rock ridge. This would be quite easy if dry but it was deep snow when we did it and not pleasant as we wallowed and were at risk of avalanche. A group behind climbed a 5.6 groove to the right of the tower but it was wet and we had our boots on so we went with the snow. Some groups rate this as 5.5/5.6 when dry and it would be much faster and safer than going around on the ledges.

The upper rock ridge has sections of knife edge and rubble- moderate scrambling. Some diversions left around towers/rock bands and eventually comes to the final steep 50 m high rock band. This looks steep but an easy 5.3 route slants up 30 m and left across the face and puts you on the scree/rubble slopes which lead to the false summit above the teahouse. 6 hours in total.

The classic mini alpine route 20 minutes from Canmore. Climb the WI3 curtain down low than scramble up low angle ice heading up the gully. At the top of the gully take a hard right for a few hundred meters to hit the left facing corner which presents the M4 crux of the route. Climb this to a tree belay. Continue up following mostly corners aiming for the large left facing corer feature at the top of the mountain. From here the direct finish is Coire Dubh Integral, or the right side finish is Coire Dubh. For CDI continue up trending slightly right pitching/scrambling as necessary. The second crux is found in a chimney (bolt) followed by a single bolt belay. Then traverse right 60m. Before heading straight to the top of the ridge. Walk off via Loder peak scrambling trail.

The long ridge separating the large, slabby west face of Mt Conness from the steep south face. There are numerous ways to climb here, but generally the best exposure and climbing is to stay as close to the south face as possible. Can be accessed from the Young Lakes (great camping), or as an exceptionally long day trip from Saddlebag Lake, by hiking in over the south side of the mountain.

On the nose of the second buttress, this route is a classic with an exposed and steep climbing (cracks & slab). It could be hard to find the route once you are up on it.

The West Buttress has been derided as "the Denali Iditarod" or "the Scenic Loop." However, this is in context to Denali being fondly referred to as the "Mid-life Crisis Mountain" --- in 2011, the average age of a Denali climber was exactly 40 years old. While there is always some truth to nicknames, many people aspire to climb the West Buttress and the climb is undoubtedly considered as an exceptional mountaineering challenge. Nowhere in the world does one travel with so much gear over so much vertical in such a hostile environment. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of "The Butt" leave very little margin for error (the lower glacier in warm conditions, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge). Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to Denali's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. (from summitpost.org)

The long, low angled ridge extending away to the north of the peak. Usually accessed from Saddlebag Lake.

7 Pitches. Two ropes needed for descent. No fixed anchors for rappels.

P1: Climb 30-40m over left leaning flakes to a promoniant horn to belay, Just below where the Dihedral becomes more pronounced.

P2: Follow the second overlap of the steepening dihedral for 40m to a flake belay.

P3: the crux pitch, Continue up the dihedral for 25m, stem left and pull a cruxy move onto a sandy ramp, climb 5m up to an alcove belay

P4: Mantle to the second big ledge then climp up and right over a block to gain a solid ledge. climb down and right to gain surfs up ledge. belay at the far end.

P5:Follow the obvious face crack off the ledge, pull over an awkward block and belay at 30m

P6: climb 5.8 jams to a pedistal belay at 30m

P7: follow 20m of 5.7 cracks to gain a boulder on the ridge crest, belay here.

scramble the ridge crest to the summit then descent off the Kraus-McCarthy Rap Route

traverse Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Gap. Continue accross the Ingram Glacier to Cathedral Gap. Continue Via the Ingram Glacier to Columbia crest, then accross the summit cone to the true summit