Ascents in Oceania as various tick types by Kurt Doherty

Sooo good!! Almost blew the crux and had to keep plugging through the jugs—skipping a clip—to the big kneebar, juuuust getting it in before my arms blew up. Managed to recover really well and nailed the final few big moves, pulled over the lip and clipped the chains!! Back to back sends of this beast with Steve—absolutely brilliant. Far better value than Pepperoni and easily one of my best sends, regardless of grade. [4]

YAS! Finally got it done. This route has such awesome movement—felt like a total boss holding the cut-loose with the new beta. So much joy clipping the chains. 23 shots all up, across 6 sessions, makes this my hardest-won send to date. Considerably harder for me than Dr Pepper, but so worth it. [23]

After a decent break, I tied back in and decided I'd just start going for proper send attempts. As it happens, I didn't fall... !!! First 27 and I'm very surprised it went so quickly, seems this style goes well on me—huge props to Steve, Reido and co for dishing out such good beta the other day. [3]

The classic last-attempt-of-the-day, no-expectation, flawless send. Did everything right and reached the chains before I knew it. So good. [6]

Struggled to get in a good mindset before pulling on and was sloppy on the start again. Reset at the left kneebar, recovering well, and found my focus. Climbed very well from then on, unlocking less powerful beta on the fly for getting into the backrest/kneebar and zeroed out there before punching through pretty easily to the chains. Definitely had to work for it, but really happy with how I managed to zone in after pulling on. Great climbing, one of my faves at the cave so far, and another oldish project cleaned up. [6]

Was quietly confident I'd get good linkage, but didn't expect to send. Almost dropped it getting to the final kneebar, and again on that headwall crux, but stayed on and was clipping the chains with a huge smile on my face. Such an enjoyable route! Massive thanks to the three legends that all contributed to this routes existence—one of my faves in the cave for sure. As with other's, I'd say hard 26 feels right for this, especially with my mid-route kneebar. The draw on bolt 5 is getting a bit worn too; whoever owns it may want to mount a rescue. [3]

YEW! So good Saw Rob work out good beta for where I fell, used it, and kept it together to the chains!! Super surprised it went so quick, but very very happy! [6]

So this happened! Had all the beta after watching Tom climb it, pulled on and reached the chains before I knew it, collecting a stick-clip-delivered quickdraw for the anchor along the way.

Felt super good on this. Found myself at the final crux with lots to spare, despite placing all the 'draws. Very happy with how I climbed and stoked I got it done first go of the day. [4]

First 26! Yay! Suuuper doooooper humid day, but thankfully the rock felt pretty good. Sent first shot after a short "warm up" on Ross' new board. Happy to get it done after being so close on three previous attempts. Could be a soft 26—it's definitely not my style—but it's very good climbing. Keen to start working on the full Acid come winter! [9]

Reido and Steve were happy to let me climb again before I had to leave early, so after a bit of a break, I decided to have another burn and see what I could link. Completely expected to fall on the first crux and every move of the last crux, but somehow managed to pull through and clip the chains. Yay! [7]

After watching Justin have an epic high-point on Wet Jigsaw, I was inspired to try again. I'd had an extended break, so felt way better this time. Arrived at the anchors, got scared about getting to the better stance and tried clipping from the crimps. Got the draw on, started to peel off, juuuuust managed to reel it in and then got the rope in and held on a little longer to seal the deal. [9]

First tried back in 2013! Easily my longest standing "project" ever, haha. Good to clean this up. Tried to keep going up Wholly, but hadn't warmed up enough dogging Kneebar Too Far and was getting quite flash pumped. Ended up hitting the wrong hold and off I came. Keen to get back on for Wholly—looks like great climbing! [5]

Started to rain as I tied in which psyched me out a little bit, but I managed to focus and climb well. Didn't rest too much at the break as I felt good and I didn't want the last holds to get too spoogey. Definitely had to fight at the end. First 26 in a day, though not in true form as I'd previously done The Green Room and Glenn handed me all the beta for this...but I'm still claiming it Cracking day of climbing in pretty horrid conditions. [2]

Not that good with the big block. Felt more like V3, though the top was a bit dicey with poop and sand and spiders. Big difference without the big footer o_O ... Will have to work up to the V6.

Awesomely thin. [4]

Almost flashed then got it second shot. Ticked as a V4 because I didn't start from the pinches; it's too contrived. Took the more natural start and pulled directly onto the rail. Only felt V4-ish from there, so don't know if the "proper" start sets the V5 grade or not. Might come back and try it from the pinches. [2]

Great climbing. Took a few goes to get the mantle. Ended up using the side-pull, though it felt like the hard part was over by the time I could reach it. About 7 or 8 goes.

Cleaning gear after Will's onsight attempt. Bummed he didn't get it, but he worked the moves well.

Not sure what to make of this one. With only the start holds chalked, I went for the obvious jug at the lip of the roof and up the face, not direct up the corner feature as shown in the SEQ guidebook—is this correct? Start moves were tough, but over very quickly. Definitely a one-move wonder, much like Little Wednesday, and would be harder the shorter you are. Overall, would agree with SEQ guidebook on 24.

Great little route. Short and punchy with the hard moves at the start. One move at 25 then fun 22-ish cranking to the anchors.

Flashed after Schimke did the same. Good little route, though it's a bit of a one move wonder and definitely soft for 25.

Way better than Loosing Fingers, but this definitely isn't 25. Agree with Ross' first ascent comment that it's 24. Someone with the perms needs to change its grade.

Great route that deserves more attention. Good warm up option, though today was pretty tough with the arctic wind. Fingers were properly numb by third bold but managed to crank through and finish it off. Very enjoyable and glad to have running beta from Reido.

Al put up the draws, and Tom dished out the beta. Thanks guys! It's short, but it definitely got the arms warm.

Draws on for Tony's last chance to tick before we left for home.

Outstanding at 25. Got it first go, but it really only requires two or so easy moves to link from the shield jug into Terminus of Desire's final sequence, so I definitely can't claim anything more than a redpoint for the send. It's certainly not as good as the full French Connection, but it's easier than Wet Jigsaw and probably a fraction harder then Terminus, so I definitely think it's a worthwhile route. [1]

Warm up.

Was feeling pretty tired today so wasn't sure I'd make it through, but I climbed well, milked the rests and clipped the chains. Managed to remember all my beta and paced myself well. Happy happy. Quality climbing and a good end to a half-day at the cliff.

Cleaning draws after Tony's attempt. Happy to get through this pretty "easily". Still a tough move that's very bicep-y for me, but it's really fun.

Up and back-jump to clean after Tony's successful tick (his 4th shot no less!!!). I'm now very curious about this and Pipeline—I felt like I was having to pull much harder past Pipeline's second bolt than the main crux move of this. Undoubtedly I need to do more routes at both grades to really know [EDIT: and get on Pipeline again]...

Big Friday was a waterfall, so got on this instead. Up and back down to first bolt—soooo close to getting the clean downclimb Pumped out trying to get feet back on ground.

Up and back jump to clean.

Fantastic route, though I've been on a few 24's that are at least equal in difficulty, if not harder. Doesn't detract from how enjoyable it is to climb. [2]

Always enjoy a burn on this. Up to anchor and back down cleaning gear. Clean to the crux but didn't quite reverse it this time.

Just like on 'The Vallecula Groove', I really didn't expect to have the juice to pull through. Only just pulled the crux, dead-pointed the big throw, then soaked up the kneebar at the last bolt. Was still pretty marginal clipping the chains. Glad to finally clean this one up—it's definitely a good route, but I'd rate 'Terminus of Desire' higher. [5]

End of day lap. Just squeaked it in. Probably the best I've climbed the crux.

Pretty surprised to get it second go. Only just reeled in the move to the lip post-crux. Seriously great route! [2]

Wasn't sure if I had the fitness for this given I haven't climbed since December in Spain, but pulled through easily enough. Was pretty sloppy on the crux.

End of day lap. Surprised to get it clean as I felt pretty tired. Managed to stick the throw and that was it. Still fun. That said, bolts were very loose, and we took off the 2nd draw and anchor draw as they were looking fluffy and frayed. They're at the base of the route. This thing could do with wire permadraws, a clip-n-lower anchor and rebolt/proper tightening.

Climbed well then almost blew it getting round the final bulge. Glad to get this done. Great wall climbing. [4]

Always fun. Only just made it through to the kneebar though.

Send! Managed to bag the second ascent straight after Kenny's FA. Climbed well, stayed tight in the crux and that was it. Great route, though it's comically short. Feels like a V4 on a rope. [2]

End of day lap. Wasn't sure I'd have enough energy to get through the dead-point, but it seems I did. Glad to send something today! The gates on each anchor clip are sticking, so just lowered off the last draw.

End of day lap. The post crux heel toe on this route is soooo bomber. Recovered really well on it before getting through the deadpoint and finishing it off.

Having packed none of my own draws to put on a new project, I opted for a lap on this. Conditions in the cave were too good to stop at two pitches of climbing. This was one of my most solid sends, though it still felt tough and I definitely got pumped.

Warm up. Felt a bit sluggish today, but managed to send without flash pumping. Hands were properly numb post-crux though.

Stuck the hidden hold and punched through to glory. Stoked to get this second go when I wasn't very confident I'd stick the crux without refining beta, but it all worked. Great climbing.

Boom! Was really only expecting to link to the dead point, but managed to execute that perfectly and found myself below the head wall. Managed to just scrape through the final hard move and clipped the chains. Solid and really good value for the grade. Another great line Tom Reid! One of my favourites here. [3]

Had lunch and a long break after Jack's send to make sure I felt good enough to go again. Cruised all of it and got to the anchors feeling nicely warmed up... Overall, I think this is 24; lots of jugs and kneebars and overall quite short. Initial roof may be hard for shorties though. [3]

Easy done this time. Great wall climbing. I take back what I previously said about the anchor placement...it's fine, I just wasn't using a good sequence to equip/clip them. With the anchor clip sorted, this feels on par with some of the vert 24s I’ve done recently. [5]

BOOM! So happy. Placing and clipping second scared the pants off me...almost climbed to the third before getting it done. Almost stuffed my hands after that too. Such a good feeling getting to that jug!

Only just pulled this off—forearms were exploding as I rounded the lip. If the anchors were still in steep territory, I'd have been out of there. As soon as you commit to setting up for the move to the jugs, it's on like donkey kong. Not the most amazing route, but definitely fun! Would say 24 is bang on.