Ascents in Oceania by oliver kerr having Sport CPR

Fifth attempt over two days - four times I fell screwing up the sequence in a different way. None of those times I was too pumped. Good to finally get what I should have gotten first shot this trip! Excellent route - make sure you bring your crimp strength and endurance!!

After flashing Pooh Connection, I did this for good measure. It's all in the one crux section...somehow it felt quite a bit harder doing it the second time. Great route and an excellent one to try as the business is on bolts.

Consultation prize from The Great Escape. Cool sequence with knee bars at the top but the funnest part was the wide chimneying to get to the start - feet on one side, hands on the other! I'm sure glad I had a nut preclipped from dogging up The Great Escape, otherwise would have been scary as fuck.

I fluffed the onsight when I couldn't get the gear I wanted at the crux. The gear below was stonka and I should have just gone for it!....but wasn't feeling it. After I sat on the rope I placed some more stonka gear halfway through the crux and then left it in for the pink point. 26 is pretty generous - especially with all the gear in.

Took me a bit to work out a sequence and then three shots to actually send it! Desperate! I'm kinda glad I didn't get through the crux on the onsight, it would have been damn exciting trying to place gear with the slippery feet. I had placed a nut right in the middle of the crux whilst hanging on the rope - utterly impossible to do otherwise.

Totally overgraded at 27! The dyno isn't that hard and the runout section is easy. A couple of decent RPs and a 0.3 Camelot keep you off the ground anyway. It's basically a sport route with the only hard move being on a bolt.

They don't give away 24s here. I thought I had it - I did not.

Classic! I slipped off the slippery sidepull trying to static the dyno above the tufa blob. I pulled back on and sat at the no hands before doing it properly. That counts right?

Pitch 5 was a hoot and had me blowing a gasket when I reached the muddy pocket.

Mega fucking classic! Every pitch has good climbing but pitch 4 is amazing. Three stars anywhere! Riding the tufa was fucking awesome!

Maybe it was my frozen fingers, maybe it was the absorbing climbing but this thing had me going right until the end.

Second pitch only as an exit to Thin Line of Reprieve. Another great pitch of climbing! Cool sequences between rests.

Yup - I gotta hand it to the developers - they really got me a good one.

I'm not sure where the classic part comes from. Best arete 23 in Nowra? New Nowra maybe...

I think I was a bit harsh on this the first time - it's actually pretty good. Everything just where you need it and nothing you don't. Definitely the best arete at New Nowra

What a route! Epic traverse with an awesome sequence through the middle. Lots of hard moves and a couple of a jug rests. Maybe more than a grade harder than Gorgonzola....?

Almost snagged the alzheimers onsight! Oh so close as I got to the double pockets over the lip and couldn't pull up to the good holds! Next shot, I realised there was a kneebar rest just before the lip.

The onsight went nowhere because the I couldn't even see the holds. Not too hard once I sussed them out. Pretty cool climbing from the ledge - I wouldn't want to be any shorter for the span at the top.

So close to the flash! Not too bad - I just slipped off a dusty crimp round the arete. I couldn't be assed lowering back to the belay so I just pulled back on and climbed to the top. Funky arete climbing for the first few bolts then fun jugging on good holds to the top. I have a Dream and whatever the 27 is called look really good!

I dogged out to the end of the permadraws where the whole thing was soaked - lots of pockets and heel hooks to choose from with one or two cruxier sections. The route is spectacular though not particularly interesting. It would take some time to work out the most efficient sequence through the jugs. I got a no hands rest without crawling up into the ledge/roof.

Weirdly, despite the sand and the choss, this was reasonably consistent and actually pretty good.

Onsight (with draws on) at the end of the day. Way fuckin pumped!

Tricky start with the corner wet!

Fell off at the rooflet on the onsight attempt - solid crux move! I did the move after lowering back to the ground but was pretty pumped. Lucky there are a bunch of excellent rests on the rest of the route.

Cool route the whole way - plenty of jugs on the top section.

The onsight wasn't the best - but the red point was never in doubt. Some cool moves in the style of the crag.

Not as hard as pumpy as the other good routes. Cool climbing with hard sequence round the arete.

Sick route - it's on until it's really on!

26? Soft as!

I dry fired out of the good pocket after clipping the second bolt - before any of the actual climbing! Other than that, basically onsighted it... Definitely a classic.

Not sure whether I was on this or the top of Ghost in a Shell...or whether they are one in the same. Either way - it was ten times harder than Supa Happy Fun

Brutal think section at 1/3 height culminating in a lunge to a crimp that wasn't there. On second inspection, the crimp was there just a half a hand leftwards. Great route but stiff at 24!

Not the best warm up when unfit

Another toprope - thanks for the belay Kato!

Decent climbing - especially for New Nowra!

Got way pumped on the onsight! This day was about getting pumped!

Cruisy sport climbing. A bit of an abomination for the wall.

My onsight ended at the crux which turned into dogging the draws in. I thought I was gonna be way more pumped then I was when I got it second shot.

Unlike every other route I tried at this crag, this is not a sandbag. Definitely worthwhile - that opening problem is great! And the move out the roof and I the headwall is cool.

Holy fuck - totally didn't expect the send! I guess this route is exactly what I'm currently good at - a Moonboard problem in between easier climbing. I was totally flamed coming from the end of the crux - the last few moves were wild throws of desperation!

Hahahaha hahaha.

Hahahaha.

Hahaha.

For some reason I thought Cassia might be different to the rest of New Nowra.

What an idiot I was.

Word to the bolter: it's your job to clean all the loose shit from the route - not repeating climbers.

Foot slipped on the warm up - it was hard for a 23!

Tried to onsight after touching Event Horizon. Made it through bottom but fell off traversing on the crimps just before the 26 end. Dogged my way to the top after that. It felt doable if I come back and give it a proper red point go.

Some cool climbing but pretty hard for the grade and also slowly disintegrating.

Flamed from earlier climbing, this was exactly what I was looking for. Easy but cool boulder problems between super rests. That is all up until the final steep roof - where you have to hold on for longer than I was able. Sick route nonetheless.

NB: there is a kneebar at the last bolt. If only I had seen it...

Always a xlassic

What a classic! I can't believe I've never done it before - really excellent climbing.

Great little climb but marred by terrible bolting! On every single bolt the nut only just made it onto the thread. A couple of the hangars were stuck in the wrong orientation and at least two bolts forced the top biner to rest awkwardly against the rock/bolt risking a snapped biner in a fall.

Not sure if Alzheimer's onsight or actual onsight...either way, I'm claiming it. I almost came off minging on the crimp!

Not bad

Flashed because the draws were on. This one was close! Thin and techy is right.

I like the mantle thing at a third height - good reach required.