Ascents in Oceania by james ritchie having trad-cpr or ascent-date

EXCELLENT trad adventure.

Linked first two pitches with a double rack from 0.2 to 3. Needed more gear for the last pitch. If going again will bring more small/0.3's for the final pitch.

Crux is easier to move through if I had 2cm more reach. Shortie's will have a crimping challenge

The start of the 25 pitch was so difficult for me. I eventually figured out a way after sitting on the bolt, back and fourth. I was so exhausted after all this I ended up sitting on gear and pulling on gear several more times throughout the rest of the pitch.

Happy I was able to climb all the other pitches clean.

Led the whole climb as one mega pitch.

Excellent route with a spicy finish.

If extreme trad adventure is not your thing, choose another route 😂

Definately bring the wires, two sets probably worth it. Bring loads of slings to extend. We had about 12x 60cm draws, plus 8 medium/standard draws and ran out. I'd take about 10 extra 60's. Double rack of cams is probably enough, although we took tripples from .3 to 2.

1. Check the photos in comments to be confident you're starting up the correct line.

2. Prepare for mossy garden pitch. Actually pretty thrilling if you can squeeze through the overgrown shrub sections. These shrubs are also useful for the lack of pro in some sections.

3. Possibly the scariest traverse I've done in my life, probably due to the lack of confidence in the big shallow cam placements and the enormous swing if you don't make the committing move to gain the crack section. The excitement and fear continues. Super cool cruxy moves if you continue all the way up to the roof bolt.

I agree with other comments about continuing up to bolt below roof to make belay. Can back up single bomber ring bolt with 0.4 Z4 , old fixed peg , poor 0.75 placement options. This belay is excellent if running late and the sun is coming - full protection. Only issue is the full hanging belay factor. The option further down (if you have enough good pro and no sun concerns) would be more comfortable.

1. The traverse under the roof and step around is awesome excitement, equally for the 2nd.

2. I say harder than 22, especially if you don't have good hip flexibility and finger strength. Managed to onsight all moves except for one. I ended up clipping an old peg high in the crack to pull on instead of using a 1 (2?) Finger shallow pocket with the super high foot. Some extra leg height would make this easier. The other cruxy sequences before you get to this move are also difficult and heaps of fun to work out. The final squeeze through was tight, no way you will get through if wearing a back pack. I pulled it up through first from my second as they approached. As it was, his enormous skirt of gear collected, proved to be a challenge. Those chains after popping through gave me reassurance I was indeed topping out at the correct location.

1 hr quick walk from top to start of route (if you know where to turn off and the way up through the rubbish tip). We climbed slowly, taking 10 hrs car to car.

I really had to work for this one. Exhausting. Fantastic climb. Bring at least 4 0.75 cams.

1st pitch, 2nd clean. 2nd pitch onsight.

Awesome route! If technical 3D climbing is not your style, this could easily feel like 21.

I led first and last. Ben did middle. Difficult to know where best to belay at end and also where to rap. We just did our own thing. Amazing climb. Pretty hard for 19 but possibly because of how dirty and scary parts of the line are.

Awesome but also scary. Still a fair amount of crumbly rock. Can do without #5's but take triples of .75, 1, 2. At least 12 slings. I led pitch 2 and 3.

Excellent route. Managed to get all the moves but had a fall after burning out on the first crux. Then needed to take a rest before heading out under the main roof (a few hand puddles up there).

Great moves!

Hard work to protect and scary on lead. Would have felt better with softer shoes. Was wearing the crack boots.

Really enjoyed this route.

2nd the first pitch. Led the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Was good to have a .3 cam and small wires for off the deck. Small cam also useful.

About 18 hrs car to car! Can be difficult to find the way. Access and escape pitches/raps/hike is more difficult than listed.

Led all pitches. Solid for the grade.

The first third of this route was pretty good but quite dirty. The rest, after the garden hanging in the crack where it widens to body size, was pretty unpleasant. It was so dirty and the line becomes unclear. Done as one 59m pitch. The belay position on top is crappy and you need to then rope up for the climb and scramble up for some time to the base of the upper cliff.

I have given this one star for the crack at the start. If it and the rest of the route are reasonably clean it would be a pretty good line. Get on Secret Swinger instead. Excellent line with far better access from top to the upper cliff base.

First grade 20 trad lead in this style. Lots of everything required, the complete adventure!

Amazing moves and a scary lead through the first crux move above a ledge with no way to protect from hitting it 😱

2nd led, Ben led 1st and 3rd.

I second up 1st pitch and then led pitch 2 & 3 as one long pitch. So good.

Can barely find openings to fit fingers in throughout start. Take some small gear. Fun exit from belay ledge up 2nd pitch. I did it as a single pitch route.

Difficult. Crack too thin to jam. Had to mostly lay back. At about 3m up I needed to come back down to a stance by sitting on gear due to a tangled up sequence choice.

Bullshit you can face climb most of it! This is tough for 19! Hard core off width!

Tough start off the ground.

Very tricky transition through the off width to gain the crack on the face.

I struggled. When it opens to fist size, my fists were not really big enough.

Linked the two pitches. Not sure if I did the correct line on 2nd pitch as multiple options.

Pre placed the gear on rap down over route.