Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
FR:7c+ | ★★ Junya's Project Extension
The steep wall left of Hana (Flower). The project is still awaiting an FA. Set: J. Matsuura | 20m, 12 | Margallah Hills | ||
6c | Mo Tincho | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Family pressures
Start is a little chossy but fun bouldery moves. Gets easier as you get past the overhanging section in the beginning. Strongly recommend stick clipping since crux is at start. | 20m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6c | The Dark Side
| 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Psychological Hurdle
Set: giovanni | 20m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6a | ★ For the girls
Start directly under the first bolt with a powerful pull on a great crimp but bad feet or further from the right with many holds but difficult and risky clipping. Climb into the crack next to the tree roots and make your way up the right of the boulder looking for good crimps. Final half is a scramble before you have to climb the over hanging boulder. Be mindful of the massive runout here and clip into the bolt on the overhang quickly. Holds are mostly solid but be wary of loose rocks. | 20m, 4 | Margallah Hills | ||
5c | Cala y Miel | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 4c | Sikandar's Corner
Next to the 6a, Right on the right side corner of the front face of the crag. Short route. Top has a slightly reachy overhang but holds are big and juggy. Be wary of loose holds on this one. Set: Alex Pantelides | 14m, 5 | Margallah Hills | ||
6a | Senoreti | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 6b | Cemented Marriage
Crux is at the start. Fully recommend stick clipping. There is a runnout after you get past the first 3-4 bolts so keep climbing confidently straight up. | 25m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5a | ★★★ The Cultural Divide
Protectable throughout with good wires. Start in the corner and step left at 4m. The crux is wriggling past the large jammed block at 12m. | 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 4c | ★ Goat Poetry
Short climb with the hardest move just before the anchors. Great for learning lead climbing and the easiest route on the crag. Set: giovanni | 8m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 4c | Monkey tower
| Margallah Hills | |||
4c | Arabella | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★ Moving monkey
Start as for MIMW and from the good rest at the third bolt continue up PM. NOTE: This isn't an offcial route and there is huge run out between the 3rd bolt of MIMW and PM's next bolt. Do this with caution until we can get another bolt in. | 30m, 11 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 4b | I
| Margallah Hills | |||
6c+ | All Heroe | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★ The Optimist
Clip the first 2 bolts on The Dark Side, then follow and cross the Divide. Crux moves lead 3m horizontally right from the large foothold, then climb back up left almost (but not quite!) into the Divide before trending right again | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 7b | ★★★ Golden Sun
Set: giovanni | 22m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5c+ | Bon plaisir
| Margallah Hills | |||
6a | Waffi | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 4b | II
| Margallah Hills | |||
6a+ | Johnisland | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 8a | Feeling groovy
| Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 8a | ★★★ Islamagood
One of Margalla’s best. The crux is low down but the top is still feisty. At half height swing left to share one move with The Optimist before teetering back right and up. | 17m | Margallah Hills | ||
FR:7a | ★★★ Elephant
One of the best 7a climbs you can find in Pakistan. Super interesting moves along great features, with the crux near a small runnout near the top that makes it super spicy. Just watch the rope going behind your feet and tell your belayer to give you a nice dynamic catch! FA: giovanni | 22m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ New Friends
Great climbing on solid rock. A must do. Set: Robin Kimmerling FA: Robin Kimmerling | 10 | Margallah Hills | ||
6c | Shigar Fort | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 4b | III
| Margallah Hills | |||
6c | Smelly Chicken | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 6c+ | Sidewinder
| Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ New Enemies
Shares the start with NF but branches of to the left at the big ledge into a Dihedral. FA: Robin Kimmerling Set: Robin Kimmerling | Margallah Hills | |||
FR:6b | Señoreti
Newest route in the crag. Still super chossy so climb with caution. Belayer 100% has to wear a helmet. Set: Fahad Mahmood & Faad FA: Lennart Gießing, Feb 2022 | 20m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ New Friends
Great climbing on solid rock. A must do. Set: Robin Kimmerling FA: Robin Kimmerling | 10 | Margallah Hills | ||
6a+ | JP | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 7b | ★★★ Reluctant fundamentalist
Shares the first two bolts with Osama Bin Climbing. | Margallah Hills | |||
6a+ | Sajid | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 5c | Snakes in the grass
| Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ New Enemies
Shares the start with NF but branches of to the left at the big ledge into a Dihedral. FA: Robin Kimmerling Set: Robin Kimmerling | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6c+ | ★★★ Teamwork
Islamabad's only sport multipitch. Wonderful climb with an easy approach. Very exposed to the sun so early morning start or evening climb is recommended unless you don't mind baking.
Descent beta: From the top anchors, it is possible to rappel to the bottom of pitch 3 with a 70m rope and then straight down to the ground. With a 60m rope, you'll have to go anchor to anchor. Expect very steep scrambling on the ground. Remember to tie your stopper knots. Set: Gernot Frank, Marianne Pecnick & Jens Sommerfeld | 110m, 4 | Margallah Hills | ||
6c | FDL | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 6a | 1
Rightmost route on the north face. | 10m, 6 | Shahdra | ||
????
Unknown route bolted in between Reluctant fundamentalist and God shaped hole. This might be a 6c or maybe 7a. Looks like it shares bolts with RF higher up and finishes on the anchors of Leg over. | Margallah Hills | ||||
{FR} 6b | ★★★ Junya's Roof.
Great route with a nice overhung section. Shares the first bolt with Motivation. FA: Junya Matsuura | 20m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6a+ | Slip sliding away
| Margallah Hills | |||
FR:7a+ | ★★ Sayonara
Climb up to the chains right before the overhang. Dedicated to Junya Matsuura. Thank you for everything. FA: Junya Matsuura | 13m | Margallah Hills | ||
5a | Henna | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 5c | 2
Second route from the right on the north face. | 10m, 7 | Shahdra | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Puzzled Fahad
| 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6a+ | Trekking in the dark
| Margallah Hills | |||
FR:7b | Pending Name 2
Still awaiting a FA. Send it and name it. Set: giovanni | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Finger Killer
Good footwork and technique needed at the top. The anchor consists of 1 glue in rap ring so its better to use the anchor of the Direttissima to clean (its a foot on the left. ) Shares the first bolt with Direttissima. Set: Gernot Frank | 17m | Margallah Hills | ||
5b | Zahra | Shigar Valley | |||
{UIAA} 8 A2 | South Pillar | Baintha Brakk Group | |||
{FR} 5b | ★ 3
Third route from the right on the north face. | 10m, 7 | Shahdra | ||
{FR} 6b+ | Hero of the Day
| 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Bushman
| Margallah Hills | |||
5a | Fahad | Shigar Valley | |||
FR:5b | ★★★ Saxony Ramp
ATTENTION: Bolts for this line were removed well over a decade ago. The anchor and 1 bolt before the anchor is still present. Awaiting a rebolt. Do not bolt too close to the ground as locals make off with easier to get to bolts. Set: Jens Sommerfeld | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Direttissima
Super spicy bouldery move at the headwall. Harder for climbers with a shorter ape index potentially. Shares the last bolt and anchor with Fringe benefits Set: Gernot Frank | 17m | Margallah Hills | ||
Mr. Bean | Shigar Valley | ||||
FR:5c+ | 4
The route on the corner of the crag. First bolt is missing so there is a bit of a runout. Someone has taken the quicklink to clean the route on the two bolt anchors. | 10m, 2 | Shahdra | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Jane's Cry For More
Make your way to the obvious crack and follow it up. Take caution getting the first clip. FA: Jens-Jacob Simonsen | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 8a | ★★★ Out of action
Shares the first bolt with AD but branches to the left for a totally independent climb. Crux is immediately after the small cave and is immediately spicy. Amazing climbing till then as well. | 30m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6b | ★ Lizard
| Margallah Hills | |||
5c | Jasmin | Shigar Valley | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Fringe benefits
Bouldery start followed by balancey slabby climbing. Shares the anchor and last bolt with Direttissima. Set: John Arran | 17m | Margallah Hills | ||
6a | Bibi Shireen | Shigar Valley | |||
5
The route on the side facing towards the stream. A little bit overhanging. The anchor bolts are missing a quick link for route cleaning. Someone has taken it. | 8m, 6 | Shahdra | |||
{FR} 6b | ★★★ Tarzan's cry of joy
Directly on the right of JCFM. Great climbing on clean rock. FA: Jens-Jacob Simonsen | Margallah Hills | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Get up, Stand Up
Start with balancy moves and sketchy footholds, up to the tufa with big jugs. Once you stand up on it and get onto the slanted ledge, the rest is pretty easy. Just don't fall down because the runout to the anchor is massive. | 18m, 4 | Margallah Hills | ||
6a | Shakeela | Shigar Valley | |||
1984 | |||||
5.10b A4 | Norwegian Buttress
FA: 1984 | 2100m, 55 | Great Trango Tower | ||
1987 | |||||
{UIAA} 8+ | Slowenenführe
FA: Slavko Cankar, Franc Knez & Bojan Srot, 1987 FFA: Kurt Albert †, Wolfgang Güllich † & Hartmut Münchenbach, 1988 | 650m | Nameless Tower | ||
1988 | |||||
{UIAA} 8+ | Slowenenführe
FA: Slavko Cankar, Franc Knez & Bojan Srot, 1987 FFA: Kurt Albert †, Wolfgang Güllich † & Hartmut Münchenbach, 1988 | 650m | Nameless Tower | ||
1989 | |||||
{UIAA} 9+ | Eternal Flame
FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, Milan Sykora, Christoph Stiegler & Kurt Albert †, 1989 FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 2009 | 650m, 24 | Nameless Tower | ||
1992 | |||||
5.10 A4 | ★★★ The Grand Voyage
FA: Xaver Bongard & John Middendorf, 1992 | Great Trango Tower | |||
1995 | |||||
5.13a | Cowboy Direct
FA: Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Jeff Bechtel & Bobby Model, 1995 | Great Trango Tower | |||
5.12b V | Spalding
Northeast Pillar FA: Volker Benz, Alexander Huber, Karl Sptizof & Ruta Florschutz, 1995 | 900m | Latok Group | ||
1997 | |||||
5.10a A2 WI5 VI | Nomadu
Northwest Ridge FA: Christian Schlesener & Franz Fendt, 1997 | 1100m | Latok Group | ||
5.10c A3 VII | Tsering Mosong
West Face FA: Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker & Toni Gutschi, 1997 | 2200m, 26 | Latok Group | ||
2001 | |||||
{UIAA} 8 A2 | South East Pillar
FA: Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf & Thomas Huber, 2001 | Baintha Brakk Group | |||
2006 | |||||
5.11 A2 AI3 M5 VI | Severance Ridge
FA: Samuel Johnson, Jonathon Clearwater & Jeremy Frimer, 2006 | 1600m | Trango II | ||
2008 | |||||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ You Can Do It
Shares bolts and anchors with Benissima. Bolts are really far from the intended line for most of the climb so be careful for a huge swing in case of a lead fall. Top rope only recommended. Set: Stefan Dunkel, 2008 | 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5b | ★ Benissima
This line mostly follows the line on the right of the bolts. Be careful for the moving rock under the anchor. It moves. Set: Benedicte Terryn, 2008 | 15m | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★★ Legacy
Start from the top of the large boulder at the right hand edge of the cave. Traverse left past a small fig tree to gain the Legacy ledge. Straight up from the lefthand end of the ledge on good holds before traversing back right to gain the top groove. The last moves are the crux. DBB and lower off. The direct start to Legacy is 6c+. FA: Stefan Dunkel, 2008 | 13m, 8 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 5b | ★ Hang Loose
Probably the most popular route in Islamabad. Locals primarily use this route for speed climbing competitions and intro classes for new climbers in Margalla Hills. Set: Stefan Dunkel, 2008 | 19m | Margallah Hills | ||
2009 | |||||
{UIAA} 9+ | Eternal Flame
FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, Milan Sykora, Christoph Stiegler & Kurt Albert †, 1989 FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 2009 | 650m, 24 | Nameless Tower | ||
2010 | |||||
{FR} 7c+ | ★★ Men holding hands
The steep wall just left of Osama. Joins Osama briefly at third bolt before stepping back left to an independent finish. DBB and lower off. Awaiting a direct ascent. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 17m, 6 | Margallah Hills | ||
FR:6c | ★ Blame Me
FA: John Arran, 2010 | 25m, 7 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★★ God shaped hole
Short and sharp. Start towards the back left of the cave and follow the line of bolts through the tuffas to join Legacy. The second bolt was added in 2016 which has made it considerably less daunting. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 17m | Margallah Hills | ||
FR:7b | ★ Guilty as charged
FA: Jens-Jacob Simonsen, 2010 | 25m, 7 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 7c+ | ★★★ The crack
Technical, fingery and very sustained. Direct up the arête is 8a FA: 2010 | Margallah Hills | |||
FR:6b+ | ★★★ Blame God
Excellent climbing up the overhanging corner. DBB and lower off. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 20m, 7 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Puzzled Monkey
The best climb of its grade and a right of passage for all aspirant Margallah climbers. Starts to the right of the pocketed cave and follows the steep rib to the highest point of the crag. Sustained fingery climbing all the way to the top. DBB and lower off. 60m rope required (remember to put a knot in the end). FA: John Arran, 2010 | 30m, 11 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Legacy - leg up finish
A slightly harder variant. From the Legacy ledge continue up the wall on good holds and where these finish continue straight up on sharp pockets and crimps. DBB and lower off. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 8 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Legacy - leg over finish
The easiest route up the wall. From the Legacy ledge continue up the wall on good holds trending left to DBB and lower off. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 17m, 8 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6c+ | ★★ Progressive thinking
An excellent direct line up the Legacy face. Climb the direct start to Legacy to gain the fig tree then straight up the Legacy face on small crimps finishing up the Legacy groove. Around 6b/b+ if you start on the boulder. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 17m, 7 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★★ Osama bin climbing
Climbs the blunt rib and steep layback crack immediately left of the bivy cave. A powerful start is followed by steep face climbing. A Margallah Hills classic. DBB and lower off. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 17m, 6 | Margallah Hills | ||
{FR} 6c+ | ★★★ Pig Party
This is the route with the obvious stalactite just at the beginning. Crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts but climbing higher up will still keep you on your toes with fun movements. Possible to negate the crux by going further out left to make the grade 6c. FA: John Arran, 2010 | 25m, 8 | Margallah Hills |