Routes in Slovenské Tatry

1st pitch, min. 2 bolts (right var.) 1st pitch, II/III (easy, left var.) 2nd pt, left, bolts... 2nd pt, right, old var. with 1 old bolt 3-4 pt, Kniha/Book, 1-2 bolts, use friends 6 ptch right, no left!

1st III UIAA 2nd + 3th turistic 4th + 5th IV/V (with bolts) 6th to the top II UIAA

Take the south pillar, slitghtly to the right, 2 pitches, then through a steep grass field to next anchor, then some 90 metres to the summit. First 4 anchors double bolted. Walk off more throu the south, through Južná Kozia Štrbina.

A classic ridge route that leads to the highest point in Slovakia.Difficult route finding.Begins at Litvorove Sedlo-2385m, Litvorova Veza-2547m,Velka Litvorova Veza-2581m,Zadni Gerlach-2616m,Gerlachsky Stit-2654m. Fantastic, exposed and the views are excellent. The climbing is not difficult.Takes about 8 hours. Begin early!!

1. pitch is rappel 12 m to Žabie sedlo/pass

2. II-, 40 m

3. III, 60 m (or 25x2)

4. II, 35 to top

Lehká, silně odjištěná sportovní cesta s nástupem nedaleko cesty Sliezsky dom - Poľský hrebeň (odbočuje se hned na hraně nad vodopády). V případě špatného počasí lze z většiny míst slanit směrem na jih do žlabu (Grosz II/III UIAA). 9 délek s krátkými úseky III/IV, většinou II i chodecká pasáž. 9. délka je traverz z vrcholu. Délky mají do 30 m a lze je spojit. První dvě po platni, další jasnou linií vzhůru. Cesta vznikla jako projekt J. Palásthy a M. Murára.

Multipitch Jubilejna (8 + 9th travers, 3x rappel).

This is the most classic route here and often climbed.

1. Start with an obvious unique hand crack in a corner. The anchor is on pitons, you can skip it and connect the first two pitches (50-55m).

2. Continue up the corner, at the end exit to the right, 2-3m from the corner there is a bolted anchor on the ledge.

3. Straight up, slightly to the left, diagonaly. Bolted anchor on the ledge.

4. Head towards an obvious cross made from two cracks, easier to left, harder straight up (2m right and then up the shallow chimney). Anchor on bolts.

5. Traverse to the right on exposed ledge (Filmárská lavka) to a nice structured ledge. There is a bolt on the right 2-3m from the anchor, a sling and a piton. The next bolted anchor is on the right side of the ledge.

6. Go straight up and then climb across the slab diagonally to left below typical overhangs (Hokejka - hokey stick), 40m approx. Do not climb too close under the roof. You should find few pitons on the way. The anchor is few meters after a shallow corner.

7. Go straight up under the overhang. There are two pitons and one sling in the overhang.. Start straight. and tranverse the overhang to the right above the roof. Continue bit to the right and up the corner (often wet).

8. Continue up a corner, the bolted belay is under a narrow chimney. Even though you can skip this achor, I do not recommend it, because of the rope drag at the crux, which is at the end of the next pitch.

9. Up the chimney/corner, the crux is protected by a bolt with a sling (the crux is quite sandbag for 6+). There are plenty of pitons here, you don't need much gear, if any, just quickdraws.

10. Go up a water-polished chimney into Lievik (funnel). This part is threaten by flash flood in thunderstoms and accidents have been reported here. Start in the left chimney (pitons), you can exit to the right on the pilar (piton), or continue the narrow chimney..

11. Climb up to the summit in easier ground (2-3). Belay on the fence.. It more than 60m, you can cllimb few meters simultaneously.

Belays are bolted.

Lehká cesta s borhákovými štandy

Belays bolted, bolt in the crux - a superb overhanging corner with a layback crack

More information: http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/f.php?f=stity//1056//F10560722.jpg

Single pitch all the way to the upper belay at the far right.

First 5 pitches have double bolted anchors, the Rampa has 7 U bolt anchors, no anchors on the last 150 meters. Lehčí cesta v kompaktni skále, nadherný zimní výstup.

5 pitches-3 hours.Walked off and down via Granatove Lavky

Druhé žebro od Ostrvy nastoupíme z pravé strany. Po dvou délkách sledujeme žebro až na hřeben.

The first pitch is a steep structured slab (5), then a couple of pitches in good rock on the pillar (up to 4), then easier on the pillar and scrambling to the summit.

the climb takes about 3 hours and about 1.5 hours to get down-rappelling.

The route starts at the lowest point of the south face and follows the rocky pillar up to the summit.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/lady.php?lad=1:Bielovodsk%E1-dolina:2a:

There is one short rock section in lower part (5m) and a longer easier part in the right upper part.

Sestupovka z cest a nástup na hřebenovku Ošarpanců.

1. Overhangs, 7-

2. Delicate corner (7), overhang (7-), original variant traverses a bit and goes easier ground (5+)

3. Face, 5+

4. Face 5

5. Corners, 4

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0261//02610809.p

Superior quality of rock. Belays bolted, two bolts in crux places, otherwise trad, but reasonable gear placement.

Delightful delicate climb in slabs with use of crack systems that leads you through steep slabs. Grade feels good. In spring you may find water flowing down from melting snow, summer and fall is the ideal time to visit.

The hardest parts are bolted. Some micro cams can be useful. More info: https://tatry.nfo.sk/stenam.php?kod=00230815:Baranie-rohy:2536

Cesta v SZ věži

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/tlac.php?kod=05660945:Ostrva-Gal%E9ria:1984

the orientation during the way back is troublesome.

7 pitches of grade 6 climbing. Beautiful view. Hard climbing

4-6h

From Jastrabie sedlo (pass) to East Ridge (Wschod.Graň, Ostengrat)

Po nemecky rezbrik

First pitch easier. There are slings at the top for rappel.

The ice is some 40m left to Mrozekov lad

1. Several steep sections of some 6 meters, otherwise snow

2. Nice steep ice

The big couloir in the center of the face starts with longer rocky section and continues snow/ice sections with occasional boulders.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0987//09870817.p

Sensitively bolted route in perfect rock and balanced difficulty. Belays bolted, descent in rap.

1. From grass band up easy slabs to another grass band (4)

2. Slightly left and straight up harder slab (6, 3 bolts)

3. Left and up along cracks in a steep wall with crux in climbing small bulges (7-, 5 bolts)

4. Up over grass ledge and straight up easy face (5, 2 bolts)

5. Easy pillar to the top of an arrete (4)

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/stena.php?kod=10520814:%8Eelezn%FD-%9At%EDt-V%FDchodn%FD:2340

Západným hrebeňom z Temnosmreč./Piargové štrbiny

It runs along 'Cez knihu', first through overhangs in base, later in left slab of the 'book' dihedral. Belays bolted, some bolts in the route. Rap off.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//1056//10560719.p

1. Up and diagonally to right in slightly broken rock, assigned 4+, but feels a bit harder.

2. Straight up in perfect and structured stab/corner.

3. Straight up a hand crack then a delicate traverse to right (2 pitons)and straight up long finger crack (1 or 2 pitons).

Hard for technique, hard for moral, superb rock, exposition. Unforgettable.

Dlouhý žlab vhodná na zimu spevným sněhem (lavinový). Omezené možnosti jištění, leze se bez. Spíše II UIAA kromě příčného prahu cca v 1/2 a ledu pod Čertovou lavinovou lávkou. Dál por normálce na Gerlach.

Follow an obvious left groove in the center of the face.

Cesta nastupuje společně s pravým Puškášem, po dvou délkách od něj odbočuje doleva a vede nejprve vlevo od koutu přímo nahoru na velkou travnatou polici a v její levé části přímo přes plotny (kolem převisu zprava) na ukloněnou rampu a odtamtud už lehce.

Route clims a small buttress on the right to the start of Německý rebrík. Few pitons in the route. More information in Chara pri Zelenom.

Up the gully between Ladový and Zadný Ladový štít. From saddle up the north ridge.

SE gully is an obvious easily accessible gully. On the trail through Zlomiská dolina, turn left when you reach the first plateau, the gully is straight up.

The route is mostly on snow except for one interesting rocky section in the middle of the gully (3). Then another rocky section is when the route connects to the west gully before reaching the summit.

South-west pillar of Kozí Mnich and then reconnect to the south pillar.

The crux is in the corner pitch 6 that feels harder (6+). Also the second pitch is suprisingly hard for 5+. Pitons in the route.

1 pitch to pass (1 bolt, 1 chain), 1 pitch to Velký (chain) and 1 pitch to Malý Dračí štít (I-II)

The route follows and obvious crack/chimney in the middle of the face.

Start with JV žlab. After climbing the rocky section continue for 20m and then turn right and climb the rocky corner to reach SE ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.

Route starts at lower part of Téry kuloár just at the top of large compact rock bad.

1. Climb diagonally to right (3)

2. Continue until a steep face (4)

3. Climb the face into a small gully (5+)

4. Climb a corner that becomes a flank (5, feels harder)

5. Face around a small pillar (5)

6. Still around and on top of the pillar (4, broken rock)

7. Climb long offwidth crack in a compact slab (5, excellent)

8. Continue the offwidth crack (5, excellent)

9. Finish the offwidth crack and slabs (5)

Some pitons in the route.