Routes in Julijske Alpe for selected grade

Equipped: Belay stations and intermediate protection with old pitons

A brief description

Entrance to a distinctive chimney, which is divided into two parts below. On the left branch up (on the right leads a slightly more demanding variant) and on the boulder. Continue over the overhang and left into a gravel gutter. After an easy ravine up to a narrow black and usually also a wet chimney. By stemming and back-and-foot climbing (20m) up to the gravel hollow. Continue along with the dissected, crumbling chimney to a wide gravel ravine. You can follow it to the last chimney in the direction. Across the entrance of the chimney on the right and up to the wedged rock. Continue along the chimney, which is becoming more and more fragmented to a gravelly hollow. Here it is possible to exit left on the Hanseatic path (20m for the edge and up II-III) or further in the ravine area up (100m II-III) to the edge of the wall.

Entry From Vršič on the way to the ridge. At the gate, turn left along the path that leads under the wall above Nad Šitom glave and further under the northern wall of Mala Mojtrovka.

Recently, there was a landslide in the direction over the second stretch. Ridge broke up into blocks (including bolts) for a short time. There are a lot of stones and sand on the lower part.

The direction is fully equipped, the bolts are marked with red circles. Because the distances between them are occasionally quite large, some butterflies will not harm sports climbers.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/severni-raz/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/mala-mojstrovka-nordkante/

The route runs in the right part of the north wall. It offers a pleasant climb of moderate difficulty on a fairly good scale. Above it joins Severni raz, with which the last two stretches have in common.

Entry In the ravine, which leads below the Severni raz, we climb another 20m. We enter the ramp on the left.

Descent On the way to the top of M. Mojstrovka or down the Hanzova a) along the Hanzova to the end b) between NŠG and M. Mojstrovka along the path to Vršič

The route is equipped, it is recommended to have a wedge with you because on some stands the old pitons are quite wobbly and ridged.

Equipment of the route Stands and intermediate protection with pitons.

From the stump between the peak which is shifted to the north and the masterpiece after the cut into the wall, when we see pitons in the white wall we follow them around the ravine, then right along the ravine to the little man, a little above the little man the river to the left and then stretch along the ravine to the top.