Routes in Cederberg

A classic - sustained mix of technical face climbing and cranky pulls using amazing holds. Placement of the bolt on Direct Variation through final overlap (to the right) confuses finish - ignore this bolt.

Start as Electric Copper but climb straight up.

Sit start on the good hold, move right to crimp side pull them up the grey face

Sit Start

Abseil/ Rap station. We used doubles ropes. A single 60m might work.

Blunt Arete

Start is apparently harder if short

Start on the lowest two edges, move up and make a big move to the slot, finishing straight up.

Starts just left of the end of Butterfinger Crisp. Note: Anchors are slings rapped around rock features. Slings may need to be replaced so bring along a few 120cm slings and carabiners.

1. [13] 26m

   Start as for 'Maiden's Prayer' to the start of 'Maiden's Prayer' P2, continue to the end of the ledge.

2. [14] 30m

   Traverse right on a great foot & finger rail. When the foot rail pinches out, climb diagonally up to stance below an overlap.

3. [14] 36m

   Move slightly right to below a bottomless chimney/ flake, climb the flake on great jugs up to a wide ledge with a short off-width crack on the left. Climb left of the crack to reach the massive ledge above

4. [14] 30m

   Walk right below the amphitheatre. Pass 'Maiden Voyage' break, continue past another break with a massive 2m thick block which is cammed in at around 6m off the ground. Start just before the ledge pinches out at a small cairn with restio's below a slab/ wall with breaks. Climb a recess moving up and right, continue in this fashion to the next ledge.

5. [17] 45m

   Shift slightly right to find the left tending dassie crawl, climb up to this then move left for a few meters till able to step up to below an overhang. Climb up to the overhang and reach for a good jug out left use this to turn the overhang. Continue up to top out.

Sit-start under small roof and climb up left of the arête.

Climb up the thin slab.

Sit-start with jug and climb up left on seam.

Sit-start and climb up diagonally right

#SD Sit-start on the right and traverse left on great holds.

Start as Black Mango Chutney but climb out left along seam.

Video

Sit-start with crimp and climb up.

Sit-start avoiding the block and climb the arête.

Video

Sit-start with slot, move out left then to underclings and climb out rightwards on good holds

Sit-start and climb straight up the hueco face

With the left arete

#sd

Sit-start on the right of the large rail and climb up

Sit-start on the left, climb up crack then right to good holds and exit out scoop

Sit-start with low hold, move right and finish up slab. "Tricky"

Campus up from a nice sloping hold.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the short slab.

Crouch-start with pinch feature and climb up right.

Video

Climb up right.

Sit-start, climb left to crack and climb up

Hard looking problem

Crouch-start and climb the orange streak.

On the far right of the Boulder. Start with juggy rail and climb through the roof/overhang.

Climb up the face using the rail in the middle.

Excellent continuous crux requiring power and crimp with good foot placement choices

Low sit start.

Start on the central pillar and climb up over a small lip on 'ok' gear. Continue up over a small roof and straight up to the top of the wall on good rails. Descend off the back via a sketchy scramble or ab off using tat.

Start as Cascade but climb straight up.

"A totally anthropoid experience!" D. Cheesmond in his 50 Selected Routes.

Orang-Outang starts more or less in the middle of the amphitheatre in a right facing open-book. The Grooves starts about 6m right and follows a groove/crack line leading three quarters of the way up the wall.

1. Climb the right-hand crack, walk 2m left at a ledge to another crack. Follow this to a ledge.

2. Traverse left, then back right to a stance above the start of the pitch in a small cave with grass.

3. The Boat Pitch: Go back left to an orange covered slab. Climb this into a groove and up to a jug. Go right and up the crack to a stance.

4. Continue straight up to a large ledge.

5. Scramble up easy rock to the giant ledge.

6. Climb the juggy wall to a cave/dassie ledge belay.

7. The Gorilla Pitch: Climb diagonally left towards a vague recess, heading for the left of a vague pinnacle. Move right to a stance.

8. Climb the crack to the top.

Crouch start from a jug and climb up

Start to the right of The Venerable Yorgi, traverse right to a crack and climb up left.

Start with large jug and climb straight up.

Start with slopey rail and climb diagonally right along the crack.

Climb the black streak.

Start left in the scoop and climb up right on 'mushroom' holds.

Climb Girl on Our Mind but throw out right to crimp and top-out.

Video

Start as The Revenge... but climb out right using sidepull.

Video

Climb the overhanging prow.

Climb Panic Room but mantle up before the arete.

Video

Start with pockets and climb up.

#sd

Sit-start under small roof and climb out.

Escape onto the slab

Climb the easy corner.

From the large undercling climb diagonally left up the face. Top out as sunset traverse.

Video

Climb the open book (inner corner / crack)

As for La Bowling Ball, but continue to mantle up.

Start as Ron Ron Dyno but from the edge climb out right.

Video

Sit-start with good holds and climb up

Project. To the right of The Southern Reach -- a harder version. Stupid request: If done, please keep the name so the pair makes sense together. (Also: Read The Southern Reach Trilogy by Jeff VanderMeer)

Sit start on small holds, climb straight up

A technical one pitch climb for a cold day. Start at the cairn and climb more or less straight up via some small crimps and side pulls. Stance on a comfy ledge under a roof. One or 2 airy steps out the left make it possible to gain the face above, top out after 50m. The second pitch was probably climbed before as part of one of the old routes there.