Routes in Gauteng

Climb the ridge 3m to the right of PURPLE SKY, starting on the left of the arete on an easy angle slab and finishing on the right hand side of the ridge.

Far right of the Little Eden Crag past the Boven Face

Start just left of a small tree and follow the ridge crack as it slopes diagonally left towards a boulder looking ceiling. Place pro in the underside of the ceiling and step high to mantle onto the slope above. Continue straight up to the ledge and then step right to go up the slab face. Traverse left again to the corner and up the chockstones to top out on a nice ledge just above the small tree.

Easy scramble out from here to the left to avoid seiling back down and going through the lantana back to the river.

The leftmost chimney. Climb the recess and do a chimney move to gain the small overhang near the top. Careful of the loose block at top.

About 3m to the right of BLACK MAGIC is a large obvious corner. Climb directly up to the corner after negotiating the initial overhang, climb the corner (crux) and continue straight up crack above without stepping right onto easier rock (a superb direct line).

Climb as for Crack of Doom but climb the crack by jamming only.

To the right of LAND OF SMILES is a deep crack running up a series of ledges. Climb the crack and step left at its top. Exit right.

Climb the steep ridge about 5m right of Kakibos. Move up on good holds through the overhang/roof.

Start as for TIDAL WAVE to the rail. Rail right to a corner, move right onto the nose and then up to grips above a thin crack. Then move up diagonally left to a ledge. Continue up to the top.

Climb the steep ridge just right of Crack of Doom without venturing onto other routes in the area. The crux is just above the small triangular overhang.

Climb the ridge to the right of SONG OF SONGS on good but far apart jugs to the top.

Off-width instead of Ouink's open books

Climb the recess 5m right of Surprise Ridge. Traverse right at the top to avoid the overhang.

Pull up into the corner to the right of the start of TIDAL WAVE (reachy). Then execute a very contrived pull through the roof above, without touching the right wall of the corner. (Height is a definite advantage for both cruxes).

A well known climb including the large overhang to the left of Asutha Ridge. Climb up the small ridge to the right until a very good flake handhold can be reached, then traverse 2m left and climb up the face to the top, this is the crux.

Climb the orange recess with cracks in it on the right of BYE BYE BLUES. This recess has an overhang in it about three quarters of the way up.

Climb the steep (overhanging) face straight to the top. Avoid the ledge on the left. The route is sustained.

About 3m to the right of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is a hairline crack running through the initial bulge, widening to finger size higher up. Aid (A3) up initial section on blades and poor nuts to the rail, then continue up crack above (free climbing) with some difficult moves (19) near the top.

On the right hand side of the crag (i.e. 10m to the right and 15m up from SONG OF JOY) is a zig-zag wide crack running through a series of juggy bulges which is slightly undercut at its base. Climb up the crack to the top.

Climb the steep crack just right of Fingerbuster. Tricky flared jams help get you up this one.

About 5m to the right of the start of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is an obvious jug handhold about 3m up, at the lip of the cave. Move onto this dynamically and continue up to a rest on the rail (crux) . Continue up over second overhang (20) and up to top.

Layback the crack just left of Adrenaline Cascade until you can exit to the left, and onto the top.

About 5m to the right of the start of MENTAL BLOCK is a short root filled crack. Climb this to the rail, ascend wide crack above (crux) to a ledge. Then avoid bad rock above by traversing right for 5m to an attractive nose with an obvious hand crack on its left hand side. Climb this to the top, starting on its right hand side. (As in LUNAR LIGHT TRAVERSE)

This climb started about 1m to the right of the ridge. Climb up to a small ledge, step left and climb up the ridge or continue above the ledge to the top.

Climb up the large block about 10m left of Bad Boys Lesson. Climb up next to the crack (Northcliff Layback) until standing about 1.75m above the ground. Traverse 2m right and up to the top.

About 5m to the right of HOT CANARY is a short corner topped by a roof. To its right, above 2 large, flatish boulders are 2 smooth, overhanging bulges. Straddle up the corner to the roof, then rail right above the first bulge to a cramped position. Pull through second bulge strenuously until the grade eases, then continue up ridge above (excellent dynamic moves).

Climb up to the small triangular ledge just right of the ledge on Asutha Ridge. Climb directly up to the top using an optional mantleshelf.

As for Adrenaline Cascade but head straight to the top instead of traversing right.

At the right hand end of the big cave. About 4m to the right, and around the corner from the start of STARGAZER is a crack up an overhanging recess. Climb this (crux) and follow easy cracks to the top.

Climb the steep smooth face between Maidens Triumph & Phenominal Existence without using the corner on the left or crack on the right. The first move is especially hard for short climbers. Try avoid the left corner and crack on the right.

The route starts in a set of cracks 2m left of Destination Madness. Follow the cracks all the way to the top.

About 1,5m to the right of SMOKE ALLEY is an obvious crack running up and through overhangs. JUGULAR VEIN climbs this crack.

1. Off the tree a the top of Bottleneck Bulge

2. off large U-bolt

3. off large U-bolt

4. off large U-bolt

With 50m ropes, the last 3 raps can be combined as 2

Follow the almost vertical finger crack in the middle of a white face with orange blotches. past two slanting handrails, to the top. On the crux use a finger jam to get above the bottom horizontal crack. This is a good, clean and direct climb.

Find the small and deep overhang. Start here, reach above this overhang and crank the jug. Keep on the front of the buttress to the top.

Climb the crack to the right of JUGULAR VEIN to the top. Continue up easy ground above.

This climb goes up the smooth, narrow face with sloping break 3m up between two cracks which are both off route. The crux is the move to get above the second horizontal crack.

This is a very thin, slightly slabby (easy angled) white face just left of Beetle Face (overhang on skyline). It is white in colour and has a small but deep overhang at the base. Start the climb to the right of the overhang, traverse left to get back on top of the overhang. Move up a ridge for 2m and then diagonally left to he top. The crux is at the start of the climb.

Start 10m up BLACK JACK GULLY in a short obvious corner with yellow and grey patches. This is just to the left of a dusty cave whose ceiling consists of large boulders. Climb the corner and continue past the tree above to the top.

Climb up the corner, 1m to the right of Maidens Triumph crack, using the tree for support. About 30cm above the tree (1984) move onto the face on the right and up to the top.

The obvious decent route with tree at base.

Climb as for DATBC but climb into the recess.

Climb the same as Bad Boys Lesson until you need to move diagonally left, at this point step right and mantleshelf up and continue to the top with an awkward move.

Climb face 1m right of EYES OF FIRE through overhang to top.

On the upper band of rock. Climb the bulge left of Lizard, finish on the overhanging outside corner above.

Climb the attractive face to the left of Cherry Face. Keep up the middle up this easy climb

Climb shallow recess 1m to the right and around the corner of DEVIOUS.

On the upper band of rock. Climb the pillar of rocks to the left of Sunshine Face.

The crack system on the left wall of the chimney provides the handholds for this climb. Climb up using the widely spaced holds. The face on the left round the corner is not part of the route.

About 4m up BLACK JACK GULLY on the true left is an obvious finger crack up a grey and cream streaked wall. Climb the crack to a rail, then pull straight through the centre of the steep face above to reach the top.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. Climbs up the middle of the slab.

Take the chimney up the deep black recess to the left of Boomslang Ridge. Exit to the right at the top. This climb is good for novices. The recess at the back of the chimney can be climbed but unfortunately is is dirty with bad rock.

Climb the crack system directly above the tree at the base of BLACK JACK GULLY. Climb up past some white streaks to an undercling rail. Then move left onto further cracks and ascend (passing a tree on the right) to the top.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. This route climbs the right-hand edge of the smooth slab on the left of a small gully.

About 4m to the right of GOAT CRACK is a small tree. Climb left of tree to ledge, then move up left via crack to a ledge 1m to the right of the cubby hole of GOAT CRACK. Then climb up cracks above to the top.

3m left of Butterfly is an attractive ridge which winds from side to side. Start of climb is overhanging, climb ridge to top.

To the right of INO THE BLUE is a large overhang about 2m up. Start as for HEART OF GOLD and step up left onto the lip of the overhang. Then follow the thin crack past the small tree to the undercling rail and second overhang. Pull through centre of second overhang at about 1.5m to the right of INTO THE BLUE. Continue straight to the top.

Climb the first overhanging recess/crack on the left, immediately to the right of some bushes.

One of the best climbs at Northcliff. 7m left of Belcher there is a beautiful square overhang which from below looks like a butterfly's wing. Climb grassy recess to the left of the overhang at ground level (a small spike like nose) until you can hand-traverse right to the right corner of the face on an undercut ridge. Climb past last overhang to the top.

On the front of the Neil Young Buttress at the base of the crag are 3 large boulders under an overhang, the right hand one forming a 2m high pillar. Start up the pillar, then climb crack above. Continue straight up recess above (crux) and finish on ridge at top.

Climb the second overhanging recess moving left after the overhang. A fixed peg is visible near the start.