Routes in Montagu for selected grade

Abseil down 'Magical Mystery Tour'

1. 8 bolts

2. 14 bolts

3. 7 bolts

4. 7 bolts

5. 4 bolts

6. 11 bolts

More than 30m. Use a 70m rope or re-thread at the intermediate anchor.

This route takes a line up the pillar just to the right of where the path passes the little pool at the kink.

Can be done in 2 pitches (intended as one pitch though). 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains).

Shares the start with 'Breakfast in America'. Can be done in one long pitch, then lower off in two.

1. [19] 25m

2. [22] 15m

Grade consensus pending. See ClimbZA post.

Climb first pitch of Trinity or scramble around from the right.

The Reeperbahn starts 7 meters left of Trinity.

This route is on the back of the Crazy Diamond Tower. Scramble up the gulley between the Crazy Diamond Tower and the Shine on Prow until you get to an obvious slab of rock. Traverse left into a break, then follow the crack system diagonally up and right to the top of the tower.

More than 30m, use a 70m rope. Top anchors shared with Dem Bones

Shares chains with 'Come Out and Play'

1. [?B,C]

2. [?B,C]

No anchor, walk off the top. Longer than 30 meters.

First moves may be tricky for short people.

Start just to the right of War Pigs and Into the Void start by avoiding the easy initial recess and climb the rib to its right.

1. [22] 35m

   Climb the rib and then into the left facing shallow left facing corner. From there head into the overhanging recess with the inverted rock flakes. A slippery crux move gets you into the recess and continue more easily to a stance in common with 'Into the Void'.

2. [20] 30m

   Move right onto the arete and face and climb the arete and face to exit left at the top just above the bolted lower off. Belay of a sharpish spike.

Share the first 3 bolts with Walk on By, then split to the right and continue on the 12mm bolts. Climb mostly on the right of the bolts until coming back left for the chains.

5 Star FA C Edelstein (TR)

Start is below the crack to the right of 'Psycho Man'.

1. [22] 25m

   Climb the steep crack to the roof and pull through strenuously on jams. Stance just above on a ledge system in common with 'Psycho Man' and 'Master of Insanity'

2. [22] 35m

   Continue up the crack system to attain the base of the pinnacle and climb the left side of the pinnacle onto the face. Continue up the face into the jam cracks in common with 'Psycho Man'

Alternative right hand start to 'Feline'.

1st hanger missing.

Climbs first 5 bolts of 'Kinetic', splits off for 3 bolts and rejoins for last bolt and chains.

About 20 meters to the right of 'The Passion'