Routes as trad in Lower Middle Buttress

Start on the boulder at the bottom of the short, overhanging east-facing wall. Climb the left-hand edge of the wall, keeping just right of the arete.

Start from the same boulder, but just right of The Other Alternative. Climb straight up to an obvious jug and then move right towards the niche in the corner. Move back diagonally left to another jug and finish straight up. The line is difficult to protect.

Start at the steep corner to the right of Blood on the Tracks. Climb the recessed corner to a rail with a peg. Pull through and continue up the corner to the niche. Move out right around the niche and then finish up the face.

This is one of the best routes at Monteseel. It starts one metre right of the Freewheelin’ corner. A boulder problem start leads straight up to the rail. Move slightly right then and up to two pegs. Climb up and slightly left from the pegs to reach a small rail. Continue directly up the face above.

This is an eliminate squeezed between Time is Tight and Child in Time. The top section is contrived. Do a boulder problem start up the reddish streak left of Child in Time and climb up to the roof. Pull directly through the middle of the roof and continue up the face above. Finish just left of Child in Time.

Start one metre left of the blocks on the right hand side of the face. Boulder up to a thin ledge without using the blocks. Move slightly left and up to the small roof. Turn this on the right and climb directly up the face above to finish up the obvious weakness at the top.

Start under the edge of the roof to the right of Child in Time. Climb straight up, keeping left of the tree branch, which can be used for protection. Finish up the obvious break.

Start up the corner left of Short and Sweet and then follow the obvious line to the top.

This is a pleasant and sustained climb at its grade. Start at the centre of a big ledge that can be reached by abseil from above, a scramble from below, or by an easy climb down the bushy corner between Sight for Sore Eyes and Penny in the Slot.

Climb up past a small bulge to an overlap which is passed its right (there is a convenient finger-jam for the vertically challenged). Continue to a thick, loose flake that feels dodgy but has held a few local heavyweights. Move right to finish up a shallow scoop between the blocks at the top.

Start between Short and Sweet and Blood Sweat and Tears. Climb straight up the face to the top.

Start on the right hand edge of the Short and Sweet ledge. From the edge of the ledge, move right into the big curving crack. Climb the crack and then hand-swing out right to the corner past a peg. From the corner move up and then left to finish up a short recess. Alternatively continue straight up from the top of the crack for a more worthwhile finish.

Start at left hand side of a tree, around the corner from, and to the right of Blood, Sweat and Tears. Climb the face and move slightly left to the bottom of a sloping ramp. Climb the ramp and short crack to reach a ledge. From the back of the ledge, ascend the steep face to the top.

Start about four metres to the left of Gin and Vermouth. Climb the face, stepping right to avoid a bulge. Move up to the ledge and exit.

Start next to a tree on a big ledge a few metres left of the scramble. Climb up a short, steep face past a battered peg and move left and up to a ledge. Climb diagonally right to another big ledge and finish up a blocky recess on the right.

This is a short, but pleasant climb. Start two metres left of the corner (Capital F) and climb the clean face past a small flake to finish up the steep face above.

Climb the obvious corner to the top