Routes in Paarl Rock

Rumours that a hold broke?

Climb the obvious crack / recess just left of Little Mouse. An extension is possible but will require the placement of rap chains (10mm holes have been drilled in anticipation).

Follows the most prominent crack lines on the Paarl Rock dome. Start below a narrow crack that becomes off-width, 13m right of Turmoil of the Skin.

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up and stance below a layaway crack.

3. Climb the layaway and then through the bulge.

4. Exit right and scramble to the top.

Superb but committing climbing up a distinct quartz vein stretching to the top of Gordon's dome. A crucial foothold broke off a couple of years after the FA, but Scott reopened the route at around '24/7a+'. You can still lasso the horn jug though and pull through the blank start to gain the start of the jugs at '22/6c'"

1. 9 bolts

2. 5 bolts

3. 5 bolts

4. 1 bolt

Climb the face via the thin crack

Note: Clipping anchor may be trickier if you're tall. Hoorah for a route that suits short people.

A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.

1. 6 bolts

2. 10 bolts

3. 4 bolts

Climb the arête.

Start up the crack, then climb out left along a crack until you are able to stand on ledge and finish up the crack.

Climb the left-hand side of the flake past 3 bolts, finishing up the crack.

This route is just the first two pitches of The Scorched Earth.

Standing Start. Left hand in large crescent shaped jug. Right hand in good undercling above and right of the left hand start. Climb straight up to top out via the slab above.

Open project (old bolts). Climb the arête on the right.

On the boulder sitting on one boulder and leaning to the another. Start LH pinch RH crimp, same height, climb up to top out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FZ4iTP48pY

Descent

Left hand in pocket on left rail, right hand on sloper. Move directly up and top out.

Starts just right of Little mouse and goes straight up.

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

Follows the most prominent crack lines on the Paarl Rock dome. Start below a narrow crack that becomes off-width, 13m right of Turmoil of the Skin.

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up and stance below a layaway crack.

3. Climb the layaway and then through the chimney.

4. Exit right and scramble to the top.

Just to the right of The Ring Route

Climb the long recess/chimney to the left of Jovian Thunderbolts (chains at the top).

1. "That Thing". This pitch is not bolted! It is a trad line, consisting of 40m of crack climbing, mostly offwidth. Consistently size 4 BD cams. You will need about 10 to 12 cams of that size. Near the top of the crack (around 30m) there are some anchors so that the line can be climbed as a stand alone pitch. The official end of the pitch is several meters past the toprope anchors, at a bolted stance. The second pitch starts past Crystal Chronicals, after scrambling up several blocks leaning against the face.

2. "The Wasteland". 45m, grade 20, 6 bolts. (Note: Crystal Chronicles joins this pitch at bolt no. 2)

3. 5 bolts.

Note: Several bolts were placed by unknown persons on the lower portion of the first pitch and need to be removed.

An old classic following a diagonal rib of quartz.

P1 is normally climbed as a stand alone pitch and is a strong contender for the best single pitch at Paarl. P2 has no pro, is dirty and dangerous!

1. [5 Bolts & +-15 Slings], Climb the amazing diagonal rib using a combination of bolts and slings used to hook the large quartz jugs.

2. Continue following the chute / groove to the top (no pro). There is a halfway stance on the first pitch for abseiling.

1. 15 bolts

2. 5 bolts

3. 4 bolts

4. 7 bolts

Standing start

1. 15 bolts

2. 8 bolts

3. ? bolts

1. 15 bolts

2. 5 bolts

3. 4 bolts

4. 7 bolts

No lead bolts! Only chains at the end of each pitch. To reach the start, follow Parklife Wall's access ramp to it's highest point.

1. Follow the ramp up to a big ledge. Traverse / walk left to another stance.

2. Gain an easy ramp and follow this to another big ledge.

3. Scramble up easy rock on the left to the top.

Start 35m right of Absence of Compassion.

1. (A0) Climb the face, using one point of aid through the crack.

2. Continue up and slightly right.

3. Scramble to the top.

Good route. The last pitch has only one bolt to abseil from. It would be great if a good soul could bolt an extra point for the anchor on the second pitch. Two abseils will bring you back to the ground but do not forget to tie knots because the first abseil is exactly 30 meters long.

1. 10 bolts. Climb up to the ledge / hole.

2. 4 bolts. Continue up RIGHT above the flake. Note: The second belay stance only has 1 bolt.

Climb the short short hand crack to chains.

Possibly the most sandbagged 22 you will ever ave the pleasure of dogging up!

To access this route, start the hike towards Belly Button sector. Continue around the rock face on a bushy "path" and around some big boulders. Scramble up towards a small forest with bigger trees. This gem will be to the left of the small forest.

1. Stem your way up. Note on gear: small/micro nuts and small cams. Nuts are the best choice given the depth of the crack.

Climb the arête.

A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.

1. 6 bolts

2. 10 bolts

3. 4 bolts

Climb the crack to the left of Hidden Gem. Beware of big loose / hollow sounding rock at the top.

Start: 40m right of Josef's Birthday Party on top of a large boulder leaning against the face.

1. Climb the chute to a vague pocket in the chute. An old peg may be found about five meters up on the left. Belay from a large nut in the chute.

2. Continue up the chute to a large flake.

3. Continue up the crack until it fades out; traverse left into the next crack, and continue to the top of the crack.

4. Down the other side of the crack are small layaway grips which enable you to reach the top.

Start 5m right of the large Splitter Gully.

1. Follow the leaning crack to a small ledge.

2. Continue up the easy slab to the top.

Start 15m to the right of the large Splitter Gully. Climb the chimney up to a ledge, and follow a large crack / recess to the top.

Easy scramble to the top of Gordon's Rock.

Enter the large cave and climb up the back to a skyline opening, taking the line of least resistance. Continue to the top via some boulders on the left and then carved steps.

"BEWARE!! A true alpine adventure, only for experienced climbers!" Start: About 50m right of Wonderland is a large gully system.

1. Climb the ramp / crack, then traverse left into gully, moving past a chockstone to belay from another higher up.

2. Continue up the chimney until a 'hidden valley' is reached.

3. Climb the ramp on the left, then move diagonally left up the slab into a chute, and follow this up to belay from a rock in a large cubby.

4. Follow the easy slab on the right up to another cubby above.

5. 1 Bolt. Move right heading for a ramp with small holds, carefully choosing your route over this steep bit, making your way to a bolt further up and then on to a bolted stance about 20m higher.

6: Scramble to the top.

Gear: Large hexes are useful on the first 2 pitches.

Solo. No bolts. Start to the left of Gecko, on top a grouping of rocks.

1. Climb the slab straight up towards a distinct crack / flake after 15m join Dyke's 2nd pitch (ignore bolts) which leads up to the large plateau above.

2. Climb the furthermost crack to the right (the easy recess just to the right is the "Gordon's Rock Scramble") to a ledge, on past a tree and up slabs to the summit.

Troll and Dyke overlap for Dykes 2nd pitch.

Start: As for Josef's Birthday Party.

1. Climb the dyke until it eases off and you can see where the second pitch (a traverse) breaks to the right. A belay is found higher up the dyke.

2. Traverse right to a small stance and (bad) crack for a (useless) peg.

3. Do an easy traverse up and to the right to reach a large dyke / chute.

4. Follow the chute until it steepens abruptly.

5. Continue up the chute or creep up the right-hand wall to the ramp above.

6. Climb the ramp to the crest.

7. Six meters left of the final pitch of Weasel there are some small holds which can be used to pull up to the top.

"Make it a real challenge and do it in your approach shoes" Start just left of Carlito's Route and follow (solo) the easiest line to the top.

"Remains wet long after a rainy winters day"

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up the crack to the top.

The obvious left-leaning dyke.

1. 7 bolts and chains

2. 3 bolts and chains

Start below the Y-shaped crack system.

1. Move up the chute taking the left-hand break halfway up, continue on to stance amongst several blocks above.

2. Climb the chute on the left for 8m (above right is a 30cm wide ledge). Chimney up with your back towards the ledge until sitting on the ledge. Wriggle along on your bum until you can reach up left for a flake, pull up and traverse right into another groove.

Possibly the most sandbagged 22 you will ever ave the pleasure of dogging up!

To access this route, start the hike towards Belly Button sector. Continue around the rock face on a bushy "path" and around some big boulders. Scramble up towards a small forest with bigger trees. This gem will be to the left of the small forest.

1. Stem your way up. Note on gear: small/micro nuts and small cams. Nuts are the best choice given the depth of the crack.

Start about 30m left of the Scramble.

1. Scramble up the left-hand edge of the bushy slabs and boulders to a plateau. Walk up to the Splitter Gully where a precariously jammed flake can be seen.

2. Move up the wall and traverse the large flake to belay near the summit.

The first chimney / large groove about 30m down the slope.

This route has a reputation and is seriously run out (re: Ed Feb's ankle). Starts in the first water groove right of the arête.

1. Climb the groove to a stance just below another chimney / groove.

2. Continue up the groove (no pro) until a scary move at the top gains the slabs leading to a bolt. Traverse about 13m left and climb a series of welcome flakes to a bolted stance.

3. Follow the slab up to a third bolt on a small scoop, move slightly right and up to a diagonal dyke. Follow this up until you reach some flakes above that are used to access a very large belay scoop.

4. Climb the slab up right of the scoop to reach the summit (no protection!!).

Start: The large recess / gully sandwiched between Big Yellow Flower and Project.

1. Follow the gully until it peters out higher up.

2. Move up right onto the slab continuing on to a large ledge; walk right and climb the easy slab to a single bolt stance.

This route has a reputation and is seriously run out (re: Ed Feb's ankle). Starts in the first water groove right of the arête.

1. Climb the groove to a stance just below another chimney / groove.

2. Continue up the groove (no pro) until a scary move at the top gains the slabs leading to a bolt. Traverse about 13m left and climb a series of welcome flakes to a bolted stance.

3. Follow the slab up to a third bolt on a small scoop, move slightly right and up to a diagonal dyke. Follow this up until you reach some flakes above that are used to access a very large belay scoop.

4. Climb the slab up right of the scoop to reach the summit (no protection!!).

1. "That Thing". This pitch is not bolted! It is a trad line, consisting of 40m of crack climbing, mostly offwidth. Consistently size 4 BD cams. You will need about 10 to 12 cams of that size. Near the top of the crack (around 30m) there are some anchors so that the line can be climbed as a stand alone pitch. The official end of the pitch is several meters past the toprope anchors, at a bolted stance. The second pitch starts past Crystal Chronicals, after scrambling up several blocks leaning against the face.

2. "The Wasteland". 45m, grade 20, 6 bolts. (Note: Crystal Chronicles joins this pitch at bolt no. 2)

3. 5 bolts.

Note: Several bolts were placed by unknown persons on the lower portion of the first pitch and need to be removed.

1. "That Thing". This pitch is not bolted! It is a trad line, consisting of 40m of crack climbing, mostly offwidth. Consistently size 4 BD cams. You will need about 10 to 12 cams of that size. Near the top of the crack (around 30m) there are some anchors so that the line can be climbed as a stand alone pitch. The official end of the pitch is several meters past the toprope anchors, at a bolted stance. The second pitch starts past Crystal Chronicals, after scrambling up several blocks leaning against the face.

2. "The Wasteland". 45m, grade 20, 6 bolts. (Note: Crystal Chronicles joins this pitch at bolt no. 2)

3. 5 bolts.

Note: Several bolts were placed by unknown persons on the lower portion of the first pitch and need to be removed.

This route has a reputation and is seriously run out (re: Ed Feb's ankle). Starts in the first water groove right of the arête.

1. Climb the groove to a stance just below another chimney / groove.

2. Continue up the groove (no pro) until a scary move at the top gains the slabs leading to a bolt. Traverse about 13m left and climb a series of welcome flakes to a bolted stance.

3. Follow the slab up to a third bolt on a small scoop, move slightly right and up to a diagonal dyke. Follow this up until you reach some flakes above that are used to access a very large belay scoop.

4. Climb the slab up right of the scoop to reach the summit (no protection!!).

Grovel your way up the first off-width corner.

Climb the left-hand side of the flake past 3 bolts, finishing up the crack.

"A dirty, sharp, loose and grovelly crack" - Andy de Klerk

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

The boulder can be seen 100m down left from Umkhonto we Sizwe. Traverse in from the right and climb the crack.

Climb the seam splitting the middle of the boulder.

Gear: Rack of nuts and a hammer just in case the (permanent) piton is loose.

Possibly the most sandbagged 22 you will ever ave the pleasure of dogging up!

To access this route, start the hike towards Belly Button sector. Continue around the rock face on a bushy "path" and around some big boulders. Scramble up towards a small forest with bigger trees. This gem will be to the left of the small forest.

1. Stem your way up. Note on gear: small/micro nuts and small cams. Nuts are the best choice given the depth of the crack.

On the right hand side of the boulder is an undercut roof split by a crack. Climb the crack and finish through the offwidth further up.

Possibly one of the best at Paarl and possibly the first of its grade in South Africa.

Gear: Small cams, rack of nuts and extra small to medium nuts.

Double rings at the top.

Sandbag 22

Start below the Y-shaped crack system.

1. Climb the chute taking the right-hand branch.

2. Move right up a vague crack and on to the summit.

Start as for Strange Attractor, taking the right hand crack. Finish the same

This route has a reputation and is seriously run out (re: Ed Feb's ankle). Starts in the first water groove right of the arête.

1. Climb the groove to a stance just below another chimney / groove.

2. Continue up the groove (no pro) until a scary move at the top gains the slabs leading to a bolt. Traverse about 13m left and climb a series of welcome flakes to a bolted stance.

3. Follow the slab up to a third bolt on a small scoop, move slightly right and up to a diagonal dyke. Follow this up until you reach some flakes above that are used to access a very large belay scoop.

4. Climb the slab up right of the scoop to reach the summit (no protection!!).

Starts as for Ruby in the Dust and then continues up the offwidth

A chipped route that was ironically chipped by Guy Holwill.

Climb the roof crack, taking the left hand break (thin). At the slab, traverse right up the corner to finish.

An old classic following a diagonal rib of quartz.

P1 is normally climbed as a stand alone pitch and is a strong contender for the best single pitch at Paarl. P2 has no pro, is dirty and dangerous!

1. [5 Bolts & +-15 Slings], Climb the amazing diagonal rib using a combination of bolts and slings used to hook the large quartz jugs.

2. Continue following the chute / groove to the top (no pro). There is a halfway stance on the first pitch for abseiling.

Climb the obvious crack / recess just left of Little Mouse. An extension is possible but will require the placement of rap chains (10mm holes have been drilled in anticipation).

A long-time classic snaking it's way up a steep granite wall courtesy of a fat vein of juggy quartz.

1. 6 bolts

2. 10 bolts

3. 4 bolts

Old bolts!

The first not so nice looking crack system. Chains at the top.

Access by climbing Purple Puppy or by abseiling from the top. Old bolts!

"The two Jeremy's were in fact the first to climb the upper Sands of Time traverse dyke but instead accessed it via a large flaring crack coming in from the right" Start: Either climb the first pitch of Sands of Time, or scramble up into the Splitter Gully. The route begins below a large crack / groove moving up diagonally left.

1. No bolts. Climb the potted face to gain the diagonal crack / groove and follow it left to the 2nd stance of Sands of Time.

2. 4 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

3. 7 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

Old bolts!

Climb the crack and then past three bolts on a pockety face

Samson opened this variation inadvertently when he went off route. He started with a rope and a partner but had to untie when his belayer reached the end of the rope. With no anchor in sight and no chance of downclimbing, Samson forged ahead into the unknown and into the realm of legend.

1. Shared with Sunset Warrior.

2. NOT PROTECTED. Climb the groove above, but instead of traversing left continue straight up the groove and then face to the crux at around 25m. Keep going until you run out of rope (untie from the rope) and solo up to the top. Belayer has to rap back down.