Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | ★★★ Snakeskin Safari Suit
Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the 'M&M' face. FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & Dave Chesney, 2000 | 15m, 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
14 | ★★ Flakes
FA: S. Larsen, 1999 | 18m, 6 | Silvermine | ||
16 | ★★★ Grizzly Behr
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006 | 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
16 | ★★ Angel of Mercy
A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998 | 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
17 | ★★★ Lucy
Clip first 3-4 bolts of 'Sarel Seemonster' then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree. FA: Daryl Margetts, Evan Margetts & A Margetts, 2010 | 25m, 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
{FB} 6B+/C | ★★★ Girl on Our Mind | Rocklands | |||
18 | ★★ Green Machine
Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains. FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003 | 20m, 14 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
15 | ★★ The Fallen Boot
Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top. FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003 | 19m, 12 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
18 | ★★★ Chocolate Speedway
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 18m, 6 | Montagu | ||
18 | ★★★ The Gospel Express
Long route, climbs the obvious zig-zag finger crack. The classic line at the cliff. One permadraw at the top FA: Roger Nattrass, 1997 | 21m, 10 | Montagu | ||
13 | ★★ Asterix
FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 18m, 7 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
16 | ★★★ Jacob's Ladder
1
16
25m
2
16
25m
3
16
20m
After scrambling up to the staircase ledge (grade 10 scramble), walk left all the way to the end of the ledge to a grey face. Climb up to a standing up exposed, but easy, traverse to the left and around the corner to a half tree (it used to be a big tree but someone cut it and left only the tree trunk). Start climbing from there.
FA: C.C Butler, H. Davis, J.E. Henry, M.P. Mamacos & G.W. Rose, 1953 | 70m, 3 | Table Mountain | ||
22 | ★★★ Sterling Silver
The benchmark 21. Opened at the grade as the consensus grade. FA: John Alexander, 1994 | 25m, 10 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★★ If Women Were Gods
A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained! Start up a thin face below the overlap. Turn overlap on the right and head up to the ledge. Steep moves lead up the face to a rest before the break through the overhangs above. These overhangs will normally see some impressive ‘styling’ over a weekend. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 14 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
15 | ★ Rough Rider
FA: M. de Villiers & D. Basich, 2002 | 15m, 6 | Silvermine | ||
18 | ★★★ Jenga
Shares a start with 'Toolbox', tending left at the third bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse Van Rensburg, 2014 | 25m, 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
22 | ★★★ Sickle Moon
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 1994 | 15m, 6 | The Mine | ||
16 | ★★ Little Bonsai
Just left to the recess where 'Chimneying Tammy' is. A wonderful route for its grade. FA: Gareth Frost & D Margetts, 2003 | 20m, 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
16 | ★★ Obelix
FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 18m, 7 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
16 | ★ Squeaker
Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 12 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
18 | ★★ Obideah
FA: S. Larsen, 1997 | 8 | Silvermine | ||
18 | ★★ Mandela Magic
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 6 | Table Mountain | ||
19 | ★★★ Undercling
Fantastic and varied climbing. FA: Unknown | 15m, 8 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
17 | ★★ Nebulous Pathway
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 7 | Table Mountain | ||
15 | ★★ Gravy Train
Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of 'Captain Hook' . Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering. FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000 | 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
17 | ★ Kate's Moss
Climb a short corner system. There is some green rock just right of this climb. Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t! FA: guenther bargon, 2004 | 12m, 8 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
16 | ★ The Gift
Set: Malcolm Gowans FA: E. van Heerden, 2002 | 20m, 7 | Silvermine | ||
14 | ★ Serendipidy
FA: B. Harvey, 2002 | 6 | Silvermine | ||
17 | ★★ Jedediah
FA: S. Larsen, 1994 | 18m, 8 | Silvermine | ||
17 | ★ Dead Wing Starling
FA: J. Orton, 1997 | 12m, 7 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★★ Pistolero
FA: Paddy McCann, 1995 | 22m, 11 | Silvermine | ||
22 | ★★ Alpha & Omega
Maint: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: S. Larsen, 1993 | 6 | Silvermine | ||
17 | ★ Spits or Swallows
FA: M. Pawley, 1999 | 12m, 5 | Kleinmond | ||
19 | ★★★ Drop Zone
FA: J. Orton, 1997 | 15m, 6 | Silvermine | ||
17 | ★★ Getafix
FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 18m, 7 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
18 | ★★ Who Knows?
Slab with one small roof. Don't detour to left of roof, climb straight up and over. FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 12m, 6 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
16 | ★ Fifth Element
FA: J Terblanche, 1998 | 12m, 6 | Kleinmond | ||
18 | ★★ The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets
Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001 | 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
18 | ★ Cool Hand Luke
Two perma-draws at the top FA: Paddy McCann, 1995 | 24m, 9 | Silvermine | ||
22 | ★★★ Goonie-Goo-Goo
Maint: Roger Nattrass & Ian Manson FA: Deon Hugo, 1997 | 10 | Oudtshoorn | ||
15 | ★ Wild Apricot
Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt. FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000 FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 17m, 11 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
16 | ★ Gunning for Crows
Starts up the left hand side of a shallow scoop. Delicate climbing past the second bolt takes you through a small overlap and onto a short, blank face. Climb this, pull the overlap above and continue up the corner system above to reach the top of the crag. FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003 | 20m, 12 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
15 | ★ Hard As It Gets
Maint: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: M. de Villiers & D. Basich, 2002 | 7 | Silvermine | ||
15 | ★ Austin's Mojo
Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks. FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000 FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003 | 20m, 9 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
21 | ★★★ Another Nefarious Crack
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 7 | Table Mountain | ||
19 | ★★★ Zucchini
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 1997 | 18m, 6 | Kleinmond | ||
15 | ★ No More Freeloaders
Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003 | 9 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
19 | ★★ Doom
Starts in the middle of the face about 2m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Trend leftwards to the arête and then follow break rightwards to the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
19 | ★★ Vlad the Impaler
Maint: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: R. de Dekker & Roy White, 2004 | 8 | Silvermine | ||
21 | ★★ Airbag
FA: S. Miller & naureen goheer, 2004 | 14m, 6 | The Mine | ||
16 | ★ Argent
FA: R. Behne, 1995 | 22m, 8 | Silvermine | ||
12 | ★★★ Fraser's Arrow
1
11
22m
2
12
23m
3
12
23m
FA: J.W Fraser & K. White, 1917 | 68m, 3 | Table Mountain | ||
19 | ★★★ The Day Of The Triffids
Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed. FFA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998 | 25m, 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
16 | ★★ Dogmatix
FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 12m, 7 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
{FB} 5A | ★★ Bad Boy for Life
Sit Down Start. Both hands on the shelf at the base of the large scoop. Climb straight up the right side of the scoop to top out. Listed as a classic in the guidebook FA: Flo Grimus, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
19 | ★★ Wet Dreams
Maint: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: M. de Villiers & D. Basich, 2002 | 25m, 10 | Silvermine | ||
20 | ★★ Revenge of the Paas Haasie
FA: naureen goheer & S Miller, 2003 | 6 | The Mine | ||
19 | ★★★ Fynhoud
FA: amrei von hase & Malcolm Gowans, Jan 2015 | 10 | Truitjieskraal | ||
17 | ★★ Patsy's Parlour
FA: Tony Lourens, 2014 | 6 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
16 | ★★ Lord of the Ring
FA: B. Davies, 2009 | 18m, 10 | Silvermine | ||
14 | ★ Mnokonunkey
Pretty innocuous route with the hardest move right at the start. FA: Tony Seebregts & Peter Speed, Nov 2014 | 16m, 12 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
{FB} 5C | ★★ Ice, Ice Baby
Sit Down Start. Each hand on a good jug at the bottom left of the lower hole. Climb up the left spine of the scoop to top out. Listed as a classic in the guidebook FA: Flo Grimus, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
19 | ★★ Stompie
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 7 | Table Mountain | ||
14 | ★★ Adam
An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top. FA: Des Watkins, 1960 | 18m | Monteseel | ||
15 | ★ YEBO!
FA: naureen goheer & S. Miller, 2003 | 5 | The Mine | ||
17 | ★★ Aussie Rules
Just right of 'The Claregate'. FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
13 | Chicks Dig It Lank
Permadraws at the top FA: M. de Villiers & D. Basich, 2002 | 18m, 6 | Silvermine | ||
17 | ★ Mini Me
Some fun moves near the top as the route breaks left through the roof. FA: D. Margetts. & Gareth Frost, 2003 | 18m, 10 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
19 | ★★ Ex Girlfriend's Crack
For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique! FA: Gareth Frost & Adam Lightly, 2000 FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 19m, 11 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
16 | ★ Easy Does It
Set: Tony Lourens, 1993 FA: B. Higgins, 1993 | 16m, 5 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★★ My Precious
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2004 | 5 | Silvermine | ||
24 | ★★ Eddy of Bovidence
Short bouldery route, with fantastic compression moves up a slightly overhanging face. This route has a permanent draw at the anchors. Spoonerism of "Body of Evidence" FA: S. Bradshaw, 1993 | 12m, 4 | Montagu | ||
20 | ★★ Between the Lines
FA: R. de Dekker & Roy White, 2004 | 20m, 7 | Silvermine | ||
{FB} 6C | ★★★ Sex Etiquette
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Mantle onto the ledge and climb out leftwards through the arch. FA: Klem Loskot, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
14 | ★ Ranger's Delight
Start left of the arête in the scoop. Intense start followed by easy climbing to the chains. Variation (12): Start around the corner to avoid the crux and join the rest of the route from the 2nd bolt. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2002 | 9 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
19 | ★★ Fool's Garden
FA: S. Larsen, 1996 | 7 | Silvermine | ||
14 | ★ Life and Times of Mike Hunt
FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 18m, 5 | Montagu | ||
21 | ★★★ Toolbox
Starts 15m left of 'The God No Wall' 'Rodan' in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2014 | 31m, 15 | Waterval Boven | ||
18 | ★★★ Sands of Time
1
16
25m
2
18
20m
3
17
20m
4
18
32m
A must-do mega classic!
FA: Stewart Noy, 2003 | 97m, 4, 22 | Paarl Rock | ||
18 | ★★ Slab 'n Tickle
FA: Tony Lourens, 2014 | 7 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
17 | ★ Mickey Moose
FA: Tony Lourens, 1997 | 12m, 4 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
21 | ★★★ Lucky Strike
Set: Malcolm Gowans, 2014 FA: amrei von hase & Malcolm Gowans, 2014 | 22m, 9 | Truitjieskraal | ||
14 | ★ FW Who?
FA: N. Matthews & G. Hattingh | 6 | Table Mountain | ||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★★ Perfect
Sit start and climb up the seam exit left Listed as a classic in the guidebook FA: Patrice Ulmann, 2006 | Rocklands | |||
17 | ★★★ Bombay Duck
1
16
20m
2
16
20m
3
17
20m
FA: D. McLachlan & R. Smithers, 1974 | 60m, 3 | Table Mountain | ||
16 | ★★★ Luna Llena
Set: Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans FA: Javier Gutierrez, 7 Sep 2014 | 18m, 8 | Truitjieskraal | ||
18 | ★ Fragile Ego
Tricky move past the second bolt. Aim for the big black block/roof above FA: D. Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003 | 11m, 7 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
17 | ★ New Jersey Turnpike
Probably led by various of the Margetts clan in the 80’s. Start 2m right of the root on the nose, following the double crack system to the base of the smaller groove at the top. Climb up this to lower-offs. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 4 | Strubens Valley | ||
21 | ★ Naked Orange
A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains. FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts., 2003 | 12 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
12 | ★ Tickled Pink
An easy route 4m right of Ranger's Delight, up a broken pillar. FA: Gareth Frost & Cindy Frost, 2007 | 10m, 8 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
17 | ★ Penny Royal Tee
A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face. FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996 | 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
16 | ★ Donald's Crack
FA: Tony Lourens, 1997 | 12m, 4 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
21 | ★★ Magic Potion
2 small roofs to overcome. FA: Charles Howell, 2006 | 18m, 8 | Lakeside Pinnacle | ||
19 | ★★ The Unforgiven
Permadraws at the anchor. FA: T Lourens, 1997 | 25m, 11 | Montagu | ||
18 | ★★ Endless Blowjob
The well marked climb left of 'Little Bonsai'. FA: Gareth Frost & D Margetts | 20m, 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
18 | ★ Gang Warfare
Climb the crack on the right of the bulge and 1.5m right of the nose. Move up, then right and up on layback holds. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 3 | Strubens Valley | ||
16 | ★ Rock Flower
Grade adjusted from 17 FA: Gareth Frost & D. Margetts, 2003 | 17m, 10 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | ||
24 | ★★ Voices
FA: J. Colenso, 1991 | 6 | Montagu | ||
{FB} 7B | ★★★ Minki
Climb out on great looking rail. Named after Minki van der westhuizen, a famous South African bikini model Listed as a classic in the guidebook FA: Klem Loskot, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
{FB} 6B+ | ★★ Coal Chamber | Rocklands |