Routes as trad in South Africa

After scrambling up to the staircase ledge (grade 10 scramble), walk left all the way to the end of the ledge to a grey face. Climb up to a standing up exposed, but easy, traverse to the left and around the corner to a half tree (it used to be a big tree but someone cut it and left only the tree trunk). Start climbing from there.

1. [16] 25m Climb straight up the flaky wall to a ledge. Go up to the start of a flaky crack system (the start is awkward) and follow this system, which goes slightly diagonally left, to the end of it. Step right to the face and up till able to reach a wide rail (there are two small rails just above it). Build a hanging belay here.

2. [16] 25m Climb the stunning traverse until forced to move up. Climb straight up to a flaky steep crack system to a small ledge with a big hole on it. Belay from this ledge.

3. [16] 20m Start at the far left of the small ledge climbing straight up on good holds the steep wall to a bulging face. Move slightly right and up into a wide but short crack to a huge ledge. Build your anchor here. Scrambling leads to the top.

An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top.

An excellent beginner’s route and probably every local climber’s first lead (or midnight solo). Takes the first big, easy angled corner visible from the path. Pull up on a blocky flake to a small ledge and follow the layback crack to the top.

One of the most popular routes at the crag, and one which lives up to its name. This gently overhung face is usually the culmination of any beginner’s first day at the crags. Start slightly right of Think Twice, below a block jutting out of the face above.

Climb the steep face on good holds to a thin ledge with a peg on the left. Continue straight up and move right onto the obvious block. Climb directly up to the top exiting up a steep crack.

Starts on the staircase ledge -- look for an obvious zigzag crack.

1. [12] 17m

   Climb a short slab to a chimney, then up the chimney. Part way, either step left then up a stepped cracked, or continue up the chimney. Belay on the obvious ledge in an alcove.

2. [12] 24m

   Traverse right, past a wide-step continue traversing around the corner, continue traversing past bolted anchors to belay behind a large boulder.

3. [13] 18m

   At the left end of the boulder, climb a jagged right leaning crack/weakness into a chimney than past a small roof to a ledge.

Continue right through a keyhole and scramble to the top.

1. [10] 10m

2. [11] 30m

3. [10] 45m

4. [9] 6m

Left of the pinnacle, obvious crack curving to the left. One can see this amazing crack from the road.

7m right of 'Staircase'

1. [17] 23m

   ???

2. [14] 23m

   ???

3. [16] 28m

   ???

1. [18] 18m

2. [14] 20m

3. [11] 3m

4. [14] 30m

5. [15] 12m

6. [18] 10m

The climb commences on the white face just to thw left of the Lily Pond.

P1 & 2 can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Africa Wall, bringing the grade down to 13.

1. [15] 25m Previuosly 2 pitches. Pull up on the white fae on horizontal holds. Move right into the groove. Climb up with an awkward move up on a sloping ledge, then a delicate move up on tiny footholds on the rib on the right to reach the handgrips on the top. Exit up right on to the stance. Traverse across left and out on to the projecting platform on the nose

2. [11] 28m Climb the face to the broad Upper Africa Ledge. Now walk across to the left to the base of a chminey, facing the cable station. in the huge nose.

3. [10] 23m Climb 8m up the chimney and traverse out left around the corner for 12m and move up to a small stance on the edge of a diagonal crack on the side of the nose.

4. [13] 36m Pull up from the stance and traverse up and across left to a tiny platform on the front edge of the noae. Pull up through an overhang on to the crest of the nose above, and continue up the right-hand ednge until possible to move up onto a ledge stance with a huge block on it. (It is also possible to move up using a recess just right of the actual crest of the nose instead of pulling up from the tiny platform.

5. [12] 20m From the back of the stance step slightly down and to the left, climb a crack to a horizontal handrail. Traverse left on the corner, then climb the easy face above to a large ledge.

6. [9] 15m A grass covered face behind the ledge is now climbed from right to left into a gully leading to behind a large block. Climbing out around the back of this blockand on to the front of it leads to easy rock to the top.

Classic easy route on Lion's head granite.

Start at the obvious leaning pillar 5 metres right of Gwilym's Rest.

1. Climb the leaning pillar and continue up the crack to a big leaning flake. Traverse right below the flake and then up onto a narrow ledge. Move right to a bolted stance.

2. Climb the crack to the right of the bolts and continue slightly left up an easy slab, then over some blocks on an earthy ledge. Climb a short, knobbly face to belay from a good ledge below a prominent right-facing layback. One can scramble off left at this point.

3. Layback up the corner and step left at the top. Climb onto a razor-thin flake and, stepping right, continue up the face above, aiming for a thin, exfoliating flake. Above and slightly left of this, a very thin crack up a smooth friction face takes you to a ledge in a depression at the top of the route.

The downstream facing open book to right of recess about 10m downstream of 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book moving through bulge at top.

Variation:

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book until about 2/3 of the way to the top; Traverse right on rail and top out in the grove close to the arête. (Nov 2012 Dickie Talma,PW Nel,Wesley Black)

This route ascends an easy, pleasant line between 'Tonquani Ridge' and 'Red Corner'. Scramble up to the ledge a few meters above stream level, just downstream of the meet spot.

1. [5] 30m

   Climbing up the leftwards sloping ramp which starts a few meters left of 'Red Corner', until at the tree just below the roofs. Traverse 4m left to a belay.

2. 30m 13 Traverse 5m left around corner and ascend 22m. Traverse right to a large stance below an overhang.

3. 15m 13 Traverses right, and through or outside an "eye" in the rock on the right from which an easy ledge is reached which can be followed to the right to reach a great abseil tree.

Note: Originally climbed in an almost direct and vegetated line keeping some 9m to the right of 'Tonquani Crack'. Start about 9m above the pool at the bottom of which is the start of 'Tonquani Ridge'. After 30m, a traverse right led to the tree.

Variations:

3a. 15m 15 From the eye stance traverse 9m left over smooth reddish slab and then ascend to the top.

3b. 15m 13 A further alternative after passing through the eye is to climb the recess above, then hand-traverse left and climb up to top.

1. [13] 35m

2. [11] 23m

3. [13] 12m

4. [13] 20m

5. Climb the block, then the face and up to the abseil or cableway.

1. [13] 12m

2. [7] 11m

3. [11] 15m

4. [16] 25m

5. [16] 22m

A superb finish to a great route. From the peg or the flake move up to a block and then straight up the face via a couple of crimper edges.

The original line, opened by Archie Cockburn in 1956, takes the corner with the tree and traverses left near the top to finish up a recess. It has been superseded by a much better line up the middle of the face which is well protected with small to medium wires and Friends, contrary to statements in previous guides. Takes the face around the corner to the right of Think.

Climb diagonally left for a few moves and then move right to the middle of the face. Continue straight up finishing on the right hand side of a prominent block at the top.

Note: The "better line" described above seems to have the opened as a separate route - see Paragon Of Deception.

1. Climb the square recess up for 4 meters and move slightly right and up to a ledge. Climb the weird short crack section to the proper base of the mountain.

2. About 10 meters to the right of the crest there is an easy recess/crack. Climb it basically straight up to a roof, moving to diagonally right on the face just below the roof. Continue up and slightly left to the base of an obvious crack.

3. Climb the crack straight up passing through a cam in-situ. At the top of the crack, continue going up using the face on the right hand side to an obvious corner/ ledge.

4. Climb broken rock up for about 10 meters. Careful with loose rocks here. Continue diagonally right to an obvious right facing corner.

5. Climb the corner for 10 meters and traverse right for 4 meters. Continue diagonally right to a right facing corner close to the edge of the cliff.

6. Climb the short (less than 2 meters) stepped crack and traverse left to a vegetated ledge. Walk and scramble up moving always diagonally left until able to find a cairn. Stance here. A more interesting variation is to climb the crack to the right moving up pass a bush and traversing left around 2 meters above the bush. After the easy exposed traverse scramble up to the small ledge with a cairn (suggested grade, 11).

7. Scramble up till able to reach the base of a recess/chimney. Climb it to a ledge on the right.

8. Climb the short crack through a gap to a big vegetated ledge. Walk across it to a face with a big face crack boulder tending towards the left. Climb it to a stance on some big blocks in a beautiful vegetated ledge.

9. This is the best pitch of the route if you choose to do the 16 pitch. It is obvious once you get there. Climb the crack in a flat wall and continue up on good holds on a slightly overhang wall. Climb the break to the left and up to a good undercling. Continue up slightly to the right and back left to a short ledge. From here you have the option to climb the crack on the far left of the ledge or pull straight up on good holds but not great foot in the first pull. Continue up to a ledge with some big blocks.

10. Mantel up a small face and traverse left to a crack around the corner. Pull through it and traverse left to an obvious break. Smear and mantel up through the gap to a vegetated ledge. Cross it and scramble up to the base of a big recess on a white face.

11. Climb the recess to a bushy steep walk section. Cross it and scramble to ledge. Cross the ledge to the base of a big chock stone in a crack.

12. Pull through the chock stone and scramble up through the gap and up to the top.

This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' .

1. 22m 15 Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.

Originally opened as an aid route, it was freed to produce one of Monteseel’s most popular routes. Starts from a large block on a wide ledge above the path.

Climb up to a rail below a small roof. Stretch through the roof on a hand jam to an inset jug on the left. Continue up the steep face above. Move left to a large flake and exit easily to the top.

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of CEDARBERG RECESS.

1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in CEDARBERG CORNER), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation: 2a. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.

1. Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.

2. Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.

3. From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.

The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).

This route is around 20 left of the point where one would get abseiling from the top of staircase route.

1. Climb the face just to the left of the arête tending to the right just before getting under the overhang. Climb the arê to stand up in a small ledge above the overhang. Traverse a meter left and climb the 5m face, with no gear but good holds, to a bigger ledge.

2. From the ledge, head to the face on the left on the face and find the clearest way to the staircase ledge.

3. Walk around 8 meters left to a single bench looking rock and climb a small crack system just in front of it (it is just two meters right to the staircase chimney system). Climb the crack to a good ledge. Head right to the top of the big block and up to a big ledge.

This routes ends conveniently very close to the abseil point and an easy scrambling take one to the top of the mountain.

Originally an old aid route opened by Colin Shuttleworth called Wobble. Start at the flake to the right of Pin Up.

Climb the flake to the rail. Continue up the face via a hidden hold on the right to another rail with a peg. Move one metre right and then up past another peg to the top rail. Traverse right onto the good foothold (ie onto Granny’s) and then pull up until able to stand on the rail. Do one move left and finish.

This route is a combination of two climbs, the original Fall Out up to the big ledge, and an aid route opened by Des Watkins, called Lollipop, from the ledge to the top. The aid route was freed by Brian Gross on top rope in 1976. The result is a good introduction to steep and technical climbing.

Start in the middle of the face. Climb up to the rail and using a hand jam, stretch up to a thinner rail. Continue up a crack, past a ring peg to a narrow, sloping ledge. Move right and climb a crack to the large ledge. Climb the overhanging crack above to a rail. Move left and finish up a recess.

The Red Column is an outstanding feature on the right hand side of the kloof about 45m upstream from the point of entry of Boulder Kloof into Tonquani Kloof. The climb commences on downstream face of 'Red Column' and starting point is reached by proceeding up the grass slope below then bearing right to the base of the first overhang near the outer edge of the column. Start in dark corner at a medium sized tree.

1. [11] 15m

   Ascend corner for 6m to a grey face sloping at about 65o. Traverse diagonally left to small ledge thence vertically up another 4,5m to a large ledge. Hand-traverse left (strenuous) 2- 3m and walk over to boulder 2,5m high. Hand-traverse can be avoided by climbing down a few meters and traversing at a lower level.

2. [15] 9m

   Short traverse right, taking off from the top of boulder and balancing round corner to small stance, whence the route goes vertically up a shallow steep recess to a ledge with belay.

3. [13] 15m

   Traverse right along easy ledge to outer edge of the column. Ascend into an open book. Climb open book until one can move out to the right on to a narrow ledge and peg belay above.

4. [15] 22m

   Climb up to right of stance up a 8m sloping grey slab until steep red rock is reached. Traverse 3m right to a horizontal finger of rock where a running belay can be fixed. From here ascend the shallow steep recess above. Halfway up the recess is a difficult move. At the top of the recess traverse 1,5m right and then pass through a break in the overhang to easy rock, which leads to the top.

Note:

The first 2 pitches are the same as those used by the route 'Staircase'

Variations:

2a. 8m 19 Instead of traversing right, climb onto block and follow crack to top. (Is this the first pitch of 'Geriatrical' ?) (Jun 1986 D. Margetts, G. Margetts and R. Diesel)

3a. ?m 19 From tree belay of second pitch of 'Red Column Face' climb easily up the left wall of gully to reach large ledge below overhanging crack containing two chockstones. Ascend crack awkwardly at first (beware of head jams) moving right at top past tree to belay above gully.(Jul 1981 P. Douglas and M. Brunke) (This is possibly pitch 2 of 'Geriatrical' ?)

4a. 20m 19 From the narrow ledge stance, climb straight up the arête. The last few moves are shared with 'Red Column Face' . Possibly the best arête pitch in the Magaliesberg! (2 Jan 2013 Andrew Porter and Garreth de Beer)

Start up the centre of the face just to the right of the No Thoroughfare corner/crack. Move up and left to reach a left-slanting, off balance crack. Alternatively, and more popularly, pull up on a jug to the right of the No Thoroughfare crack and move up and right to gain the left-slanting crack. Climb this until it is possible to move up left to a position under the roof which is split by a crack. Jam in the roof and reach around to good holds on the face above. Pull through and then finish up easy rock to the right.

A fine introduction to the subtleties of a roof crack. The moves up to the overhang were done together with Dave Cheesmond and Roy Gooden in 1978, and provide a sustained first section in keeping with the rest of the climb. A lot of 'pretenders' climb the No Thoroughfare corner to reach the roof - this is definitely 'not cricket'

The third pitch on the book says it is a 15 but I had climbed a 17 and 18 pitch before it and those all felt easier than the third pitch, that's why I am suggesting a grade 19 for it. The second pitch is an amazing 18 pitch, really fun.

One of the more popular easier climbs on very good rock. The name is painted at the original start. A worthwhile variation at the same grade is to combine the second pitch with the start of Republic Left Break as a single, more direct pitch.

1. Climb a crack in the recess, around the corner to the left of the Cain face, for four metres and traverse to the left around a corner into a second recess (taken by Horizontal). Continue traversing left across the face, past a peg under a roof, and up to the prominent ledge on the corner.

2. Climb up the blocks at the back of the ledge and move right onto a small face up to a small roof and a peg. Move slightly right and then pull up left onto a block. Follow the recess to the top.

A direct, sustained route on good rock with a heart- stopping, pivoting block in an unexpected place.

Starts just to the right of the first pitch of Africa Crag.

1. [15] 12m Ascend the crack on the right of a smooth face to the right of Africa Crag. First move into the left-hand side of the cave and then up the crack using Crag. a chockstone. Continue up to a stance shared with Africa

2. [14] 26m Climb 6m up the crack directly above to the ceiling of the overhang. Traverse to the left for 10 m to a corner on the skyline. Move up a few feet to a cubby-hole, and then climb 8/10 m to a Climbers' Friend bush above. Traverse below the bush and then climb up to the Upper Africa Ledge. Cross Africa Ledge to the nose on the left. The next pitch is up the face midway between the Africa Crag and the Africa Wall chimneys.

3. [16] 35m Ascend a tricky, bulging face for 7m until it is feasible to traverse to the left into a cubby-hole stance. Above this stance the Africa Crag traverse leads out on to the nose. Climb the crack above to a small stance below a jammed block. Move to the right around the jammed block, and then climb to a triangular overhang. Elbow-traverse to the left and then mantelshelf on to a small stance.

4. [17] 12m Above the stance there is a slanting handrail running down to the right: grip this and swing up to the corner on the left where one can stand. Now move up a metre to another handrail, running to the left, and tra= verse to the left past an eroded cubby-hole, until a ramp running diagonally across the face to the left is reached. Climb the ramp to a handrail, and traverse 3 m to a good stance around the corner on the left. This stance is shared with the top of the nose pitch of Africa Crag.

5. [12] 20m Start 3m to the left along the stance below a bulging face. Climb 5m and mantleshelf on to a narrow stance. Climb up a metre or two and then, balance diagonally left on sparse grips to a recess 3 m away. Climb the 7m recess to a good stance.

6. [10] 15m Proceed to the beacon on a ledge a couple of metres above the stance. Climb the smooth face for 6 m bearing slightly to the right. From the small grassy stance reached, continue for 6 m up the fault to the right of the stance. Nondescript climbing leads to the top of the mountain.

The climb lies up a steep reddish coloured corner about 60m upstream of 'Tonquani Ridge' and just downstream of the meet spot. From the corner downstream, as far as the climb 'Hawk's Eye', there is a steep white face which is topped by a containing overhang. The route follows the recess until say 9m from this overhang and then goes right on to broken vegetated rock, where the climbing ends.

1. [12] 6m

   Ascend in corner to a grassy ledge. A scrambling route to this ledge exists a short distance to the left.

2. 18m 17 Ascend 4,5m in left of corner, make a delicate traverse 2m to right on to right side of corner. Continue up to an overhang and then traverse left out of the corner on to a narrow rock ledge. (Piton belay.)

3. 14m 17 Go back into corner. Climb up very steep red face in left of corner to a small stance with piton and chockstone belay.

4. 11m 17 Continue up corner. Climbing is less steep, but delicate. Traverse right from corner where it steepens to stance on broken easy rock.

Note:

The route is exposed, stances small and belays not obvious. Time on first ascent (1937) 3 hours.

Variation:

2a. 11 Instead of pitch 2 above which is probably the most severe pitch of the climb, one can climb a face to the left and traverse right on to the narrow ledge with piton belay.

Start 30m left of the 'Central Direct' break.

1. [12] 25m

   Climb the grey break on good jugs (semi-polished) to a ledge.

2. [11] 45m

   Traverse right over blocks to the 'Central Direct' break. Step over and then up to a ledge, and continue to a stance.

3. [13] 45m

   Climb up and left onto blocks. Transition to the face, and climb in a leftward direction up to the long roof. Now traverse left and down (when forced) to a ledge with a short chimney/ cave above, pass this and continue to the long narrow chimney.

4. [12] 35m

   Climb the chimney past a chockstone to a wide ledge. Continue up the layback crack to exit on a ledge. Stance here.

5. [12] 12m

   Walk ±15m left to the start of the next pitch. Climb up and diagonally left past an old piton to a wide ledge. Traverse 50m left to the start of the next pitch.

6. [13] 35m

   Climb onto a finger of rock. Step over (balancy) right to gain a deep break. Follow your nose to the top. Mamacos's Variation [15]: Step left off the finger of rock and up to the top.

1. Start from the top of a block with a cairn made of two big rocks on the top of it. This route has plenty of gear but the rock is a bit hollow and demands attention all the way up. It is a good route though. Just be careful.

2. Pull up until reach a small roof. After a very short traverse left of the small roof, pull through and climb up to a crack. Climb the crack towards an open book. Pull through the open book and when it gets very liqueneous climb the juggy face on the left. Belay from there. One can walk off to the left here. Another pitch is possible in the sequence but most people walk off here.

1. [17] 35m

2. [19] 40m

Used to be a standard beginners route, but far too easy for beginners these days.

1. Climb the obvious left sloping crack to a large ledge with a tree at the left-hand end.

2. Climb the recess in the corner for one move and traverse left onto the clean face which is climbed to the top.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

1. [17] 17m

2. [16] 20m

3. [20] 10m

4. [16] 30m

1. [12] 27m

2. [12] 23m

3. [15] 27m

4. [16] 22m

A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff.

Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

The standard beginners route on excellent rock. Takes the furthest, obvious easy angled face visible from the path that leads down between the Eastern and the Lower Middle Buttresses. Start just left of a small tree below a big corner. Climb directly up the middle of the face and exit up the shallow crack.

Start on the block to the right and slightly below the start of Think. Climb the face past the peg to the small ledge. Pass the block above on the right hand side. Finish up the same crack as Think.

Start below the small roof at the left-hand end of the Pot Boiler face. This is the easy-angled face to the right of the path leading down to the bottom of the crag between the Eastern Buttress and the Lower Middle Buttress. Climb up to the roof and pull through using a flat hold on the edge above. Finish straight up the face above. This popular problem is easy to top rope but daunting to lead. It involves only about two grade 17 moves through the roof - the rest is barely grade 8 !

About 3 m to the right of Gerry's G is a very similar line that requires a completely different sequence of (about two) moves through the roof - also about grade 17.

Start next to a bush at the base of the wide crack in the easy angled face on the right of the path leading to the bottom of the crag. Climb the face next to the crack for about two metres and then traverse left to the corner. Climb up the blocky face to the top.

30m upstream of Cederberg/Tonquani junction is a platform 1.5m above the stream level. 15m above the platform is cave.

1. 15m (7) Start on platform and climb easily up tending rightwards then traverse left into cave.

2. 31m (12) Climb to the left of the cave and then follow shallow recess, past 2 small trees, to a large (1x1x1m) block on the edge above. This point is at the same height as the start of the crux pitches of Golden Balls.

3. 35m (9) Above the belay is a sloping ramp with a hand crack on the right. Climb up this. At the top of the ramp continue straight up to a ledge with a tree shared with Golden Balls.

From the ledge you can scramble out easily to the left and up a gully.

Original variation: The original route traverses right out of cave then up a crack to a wide sloping grassy ledge. Then up to the point where pitch 3 starts.

A tougher finish to the already pumping Hallucination. From the good rail near the top, head slightly left and up to a small overlap. Finish straight up.

Follow the almost vertical finger crack in the middle of a white face with orange blotches. past two slanting handrails, to the top. On the crux use a finger jam to get above the bottom horizontal crack. This is a good, clean and direct climb.

This climb has nothing to do with Republican. It starts at an undercut face immediately to the right of the start of Republican.

Pull up strenuously but on good holds to the corner formed by this, and the left-hand edge of the Cain face. Continue up the left-hand edge of the Cain face and finish one metre to the left of Cain.

Start at the base of a ridge between 'Right Corner Overhang' and 'Donkerhoek Face'.

1. [17] 45m Ascend the long slab next to the ridge up to where the slab steepens. Step right and make an awkward move over a bulge to gain the slab above. Move up left to the base of a steep open book and after a difficult initial move continue up the crack to a small overhang. Pass to the right of this and move up left to finish or climb thin crack system on face above.

The left finish is in fact the old variation of 'Donkerhoek Face' which moves diagonally left from the top of pitch 2 of that climb.

The right finish in the centre (A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley 8 Mar 1969) provides fine exposed climbing.

Starts just left of the concrete foundation (old lookout) on the left side of a detached flake.

1. [9] 25m. Climb the left side of the flake then follow cracks and face to the vegetated band above. Scramble up to and slightly left to a crack in a dihedral.

2. [12] 12m. Climb the open book to a ledge to the right with a white block on it.

3. [12] 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the crack to a ledge then up a large chimney and through a wormhole to the top.

Descent: Either hike to the top or go about 5m skiers-right and down to a rappel anchor (2x60m to bottom).

The climb follows an obvious downstream facing corner 150m downstream of the junction with Pool Gully.

1. 20m (15) Climb up crack to a roofed ledge on the right. Stay on the left face at the top until it is easy to step onto the ledge.

2. 12m (9) Chimney up behind stance. Go left on ledge above to bolted anchors.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be done in one pitch by climbing just to the left of the block above the first stance (15).

There are bolted anchors on the ledge. These can be used to abseil back down. It is possible to scramble out from here or to climb the red buttress above the ledge at grade 10, but at much less quality than the previous two.

12m 10 This is an arbitrary pitch up the centre of the red buttress straight above. It is necessary to climb out to the right to avoid an overhang at the top.

When looking left from the lookout corner, this starts just at the ridge-line/sky-line where a slab leans against the cliff. Start up the left side of the slab.

1. 13, 17m. Up the left side of the slab (be careful of loose blocks) then step right, then up a finger crack to belay on a platform.

2. 11, 40m. Scramble straight up to an obvious clean break of darker rock between two lichenous faces, then up this and walk 4m left to belay on a ledge below an overhang.

3. 13, 26m. Traverse awkwardly right under the roof, then up a clean crack to a ledge, then traverse somewhat less awkwardly (though over some loose blocks) and under a roof leftwards to belay in a comfortable corner with a roof.

4. 13, 24m. Climb up the left side to escape past the roof to a platform, scramble up to a gully to the right, then up to the top.

Descent: scramble to the summit and hike down or walk rightwards to the rappel anchors (they are one level down with reasonable down-climb marked by cairns). 2x60m recommended. Just possible with 1x60m.

The top section provides interesting and enjoyable climbing. Start at a small tree and a wide crack in the corner to the right of the Fall Out wall.

1. Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left onto the face and climb the slanting crack to the ledge.

2. Walk to the left-hand end of the ledge. Layback into the wide crack and continue until about half way up. Move around left onto the face and continue to the top.

Variation: Make a direct start just to the right of Granny’s and climb straight up to the top in a single pitch.

A pleasant route. Well protected on good rock. Start at the base of a shallow recess. The word "Pendulum" is painted on the rock.

1. Pull up to a small ledge. Climb up past a peg and then left across the recess and up to a ledge. Climb the open book to a stance out on the left.

2. Reverse the move onto the stance and traverse across the smooth face on the right. Continue along an obvious rail to a large flake. Traverse past this to a dead tree and climb directly up to a block. Exit easily above this.

One of the most climbed routes in KwaZulu- Natal, and the "hard climbing" entrance exam for any aspirant rock star. It has always had a reputation as a tough 23.

Start three metres right of Hallucination and climb directly to the top. Avoid moving on to the ledge halfway up. The crux is protected by two adjacently placed pegs.

1. [19] 20m

2. [21] 20m

3. [21] 10m

4. [21] 25m

1. [16] 35m

   ???

2. [23] 12m

   ???

3. [20] 25m

   ???

4. [11] 20m

   ???

Downstream of Short Gully is a buttress that projects out to the stream. The climb starts at the right hand edge of the projecting face that reaches into the stream. There is a thin (20cm) tall three growing right next to the arete, rubbing against it a few meters higher.

1. [13] 15m

   Easily climb up the face just left of the arete. (Protection is not great here - wrap a sling around the tree). Climb into corner above the tree and continue up to the eye-hole belay.

2. 25m (15) From the eye hole, continue up on sloping face tending right. Traverse 1m right just above roof. Continue up on good holds tending slight left. Move left into corner (crux) and continue a few meters higher. Traverse left and around the corner with fingers in good crimpy rail and feet just above the roof. Continue up on sloping face tending right and climb out just above the overhangs.

The climb is usually done in one pitch but communication is difficult over the noise of the stream from the top. The eye-hole belay is small and uncomfortable for more than one 2nd.

1. [19] 12m

2. [20] 20m

3. [16] 20m

4. [17] 25m

5. [22] 25m

Follow the approach route following the base of the wall until reach a small cave with a small metal plate sign. From there keep going up in a vague path through the bushes until reach a wall with 3 big cracks on it. The one to the right is Millions. the small one with a few grassy bushes growing out of it is Silloette crack (the middle one does not look good for climbing). This is a good route full of protection and nice and easy moves.

1. Climb the small crack all the way up and smear up after the crack starts to turn back down. Build your anchor at some big blocks at the top.

This climb starts 1m to the left of 'Donkerhoek Recess'. The climb is marked by a crack running through the overhang to the face above.

1. [15] 30m Starting 1m to the left of 'Donkerhoek Recess', climb diagonally left, past a small tree to a small stance below an overhang with a crack cutting through it. Climb the crack and pull through the overhang. Climb the face above for 20m exiting slightly left of an overhang.

A fantastic meander on superb rock. Easier than it looks all the way. Every pitch a classic! Highly recommended.

The route starts at the same place as Swazi Kings and tends to the right

1. 30m (F3/16) Climb up a few metres before starting a long climbing traverse to the right crossing Crackattack just above it's first cruxy roof. Continue to a ledge that runs out to the front of the buttress. Climb up and right following a stepped recess to a ledge at the base of an obvious off-width corner crack.

2. 15m (F3/16) Climb the corner, using the off-width where necessary and good hold on the face to the left. At the top of the off-width bunch up under an overhang and using a good undercling turn the overhang on the left. Continue up to the large balcony ledge above. The next pitch starts a couple of meters to the right and follows the undercut and blocky right hand arete.

3. 20m (F3/16) Stepping off a protruding shelf (cairn) climb straight up the blocky arete and continue up to the long ledge above. Walk to the right. Continue past Blunt Brothers recess for some 30m to a point just before the next large recess starts. There is a square block on the ledge below a short vertical crack capped by a low overhang breaking right.

4. 20m (F3/16) Climb up to the overhang and rail right and pull up onto a protruding square block. Climb diagonally up and right onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete easily and continue past a ledge to a higher ledge below a steepening in the face.

5. 30m( F3/16) Traverse to the right following the ledge to the off-width corner crack. Climb up a couple of metres till able to move right onto the face to the right of the off-width. Pull through a low overhang and continue up the deceptively easy face to the top.

A very popular route that lives up to its name - follow the splodges. Climb the recess on the left-hand side of the crumbly rock and pull through the roof onto the wall above. Continue past a flake to the Nog High rail. Move left and pull through the roof above to finish straight up.

Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position.

Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue directly up to the top.

A good route with an interesting crux. Harder for people of restricted growth. Start on the same blocks as for Adam.

Climb the steep face to a peg and continue up the recess to a roof. Pull through the overhang, initially using a crack on the right, and then move left onto the face and up onto the block.

1. 15 20m:

   From the top of a rectangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2m right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.

2. 13 20m:

   . Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.

3. 12 15m:

   Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing views of the ocean and mountains.

4. 11 15m:

   Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.

From the point where Donkerhoek Buttress reaches down to stream level, follow the steeply rising ground on its upstream end to a point about 30m from the stream where the rock makes a 90° angle to the right. Climb this corner.

1. [13] 12m

   Ascend the corner. Move right at the top to a stance in a recess next to a 2m tall obelisk. (Crux in first 3m)

2. [10] 30m

   Move left and continue up broken corner towards the blocky overhang. Traverse left under overhangs across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang.

A very popular route.

The route starts near the point where the approach trail gets to the rock face in a big red recess below the right hand end of the big roof. At this point the trail turns left and follows the rock face up. A convenient block on the ledge, about 5m up a ramp from the trail, marks the start of the route on the right hand wall of the recess.

1. 45m (19) Climb straight up from the ledge to a wide shallow crack with a loose block at the bottom. Climb the crack to it's end and then go left to a large flake. Climb the flake and a smaller one above it and continue straight up the recess to a wide rail. Above the rail is a small roof. Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left (a finger crack a metre to the left has a good layback hold (crux)). Continue up the short off-width crack through the overhang above. Continue up to large ledge.

2. 25m (15) Climb up and left under a large roof. Traverse left using the rail under the roof and decent footholds. Turn the roof on the far left and continue up easily to a large ledge. The next pitch starts 5m to the right below a narrow flaring crack that splits the roof above with a finger crack half a meter left of it.

3. 20m (18) Climb the above-mentioned finger crack. Hand swing to the right under the roof and do an awkward move to gain the ledge to the right of the roof. Climb the chimney above the ledge and move to the face on the left when it narrows after a few meters. Follow a crack to another roof then move out onto the face on the right and climb straight up to bushy ledge above.

4. 20m (14) 6m to the right is an obvious break in the face - this is climbed by the last pitch of Blunt Brothers. Climb up 2m to the left of this, pulling through a small roof on good jugs. Climb straight up until you can scramble easily to the top.

About 100m upstream of the easy descent gully at the upper campsite is a rock outcrop. The climb starts almost from stream level but about 30m away from the water on the true right of the kloof. The objective is a 25m face brushed by a tree at about 15m.

1. [21] 25m Start in the middle and climb diagonally left until the friend rail at 12m (18). Move right, and then continue straight up the face (reachy).

Variation:

Chicken out onto the arête (20) at 17m and doddle on up.

Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete.

1. 35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.

Note: Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.

Variation:

Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete.

1. 8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun.