Routes in Good And Evil Area

Starts 8 m left of the 'Good and Evil' arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb.

Just left of 'I.M.O. Julius'. Route name on first bolt.

Climb the fun chimney left of 'Woodchoppers and Waterbearers' and discover the cave system. Protected by 4 U-bolts on 'Brutus', then 3 U-bolts inside the chimney. Use anchors above and left of the cleft.

10m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky' is a big right facing corner/chimney. Climb up tree roots into chimney.

A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow dotted head wall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up.

Climb the chimney, as for 'Cesar', but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto 'Just Another Pretty Face' to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft.

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arête.

The obvious chimney right of 'Cool Runnings'.

Start about 3m right of 'Palaver'.

Start up 'Brutus' for 5 U-bolts, stepping left onto 'Darth' face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, lay-backing right and left.

Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m right of 'I.M.O. Julius' thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low.

Overbolted? Could be your 1st 16. Pull onto the face 1m right of TOL. Continue up the slab, 1st slightly left, then up. The holds become a bit thin just before the anchor.

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D].

Start up 'Walking on Sunshine' curving crack at the multi-stemmed tree for 4m, then right through the rooflet, and straight up to anchors.

3m right of the multi-stemmed tree (1-2m left of 'Nitro's Tick Fever'), start up the corner. A thin section gains the easier head wall

Climb up the right arête. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

About 10m R of 'Aapstreke' is a bolt line up a corner right of a steep gully.

Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face.

Use the 1st pitch of 'Gungadin' up to the belay ledge. Follow the P-bolts up the middle of the face.

The arête left of the prominent crack in the corner.

1. [18] XXm

   This ledge can be used to climb all pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to 'Sonny Boy'. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up 'Sonny Boy' then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing. [7D]

2. [19] XXm

   From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]