Routes in Waterval Boven

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the 'M&M' face.

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

Clip first 3-4 bolts of 'Sarel Seemonster' then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree.

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

Shares a start with 'Toolbox', tending left at the third bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it.

Just left to the recess where 'Chimneying Tammy' is. A wonderful route for its grade.

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of 'Captain Hook' . Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

Starts in the middle of the face about 2m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Trend leftwards to the arête and then follow break rightwards to the top.

Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed.

Just right of 'The Claregate'.

Starts 15m left of 'The God No Wall' 'Rodan' in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face.

The well marked climb left of 'Little Bonsai'.

A super climb! One of the better 21's in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of 'Roc Rally'.

Starts in the obvious corner.

Just right of 'Gravy Train'. Start on the face and quickly gain the arête. Play music on the scary detached stack. (Much easier around the arête for a few meter, but take care of the rope). Finishes on the original face.

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arête.

Just right of 'Groenie Die Drakie'. Again, climb 4 bolts then move left and up.

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of 'Bongoleo'.

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of 'Please Don't Touch', and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arête gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

This route starts 3m left of 'Lotter's Desire' starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of 'Rat Palace'.

Just right of 'Brolloks', great, bit cruxier than 'Brolloks'. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the 'Brolloks' start.

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on 'Face in the Trough'

Boulder up the arête of the left facing corner (harder if you keep left of the arête), then step across onto the main face and up. An easier alternative is to start right of the arête, follow two u-bolts to ledge, and then stepping left onto main face.

Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from 'Gravy Train'.

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

Starts 10m right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag.

Starts about 2m to the left of 'The Pallbearer' and goes off slightly to the right.

Between 'Aussie Rules' & 'Captain Hook' the route goes up an open book.

Fine climb up the middle of the face.

Climb the same as 'Zellweger' and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

Originally 10 bolts, now extended another 3 (U-bolts) past the original anchor, to bring total to 13 bolts, and finishes on anchors visible at the skyline.

Fine moves up the steep left arête on positive holds. Long and pumpy.

Starts about 10m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad.

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite 'Angel of Mercy'.

This is a variation to 'Mission From Glod'. Start up the break in the face to the right of 'Mission From Glod' and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of 'Mission From Glod' to finish on the same chains.

Starting 6 -7m right of 'The Lorax', climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you.

Climb the face to the left of 'Butterfly Snowstorm'.

Climb the left facing corner just left of 'Rocky's'

Climb the line of bolts to the left of 'Mission From Glod' . Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

Start 1m right of 'Lucy'.

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at 'The Creche'.

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top.

Climb the groove left of 'Gravy Train'.

The seam 2m right of 'Rip', using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise.

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

Starts in same place as 'Butterfly Snowstorm' but moves out rightwards.

The arête at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic!

2m right of 'Drop Kicked' . Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.

Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the 'Visions of Cosmic Doom'. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.

The open book. A bolted trad-like classic.

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the 'Monster' cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. MCSA bolts

Starts about 2m to the right of 'Not-da-Mamma'.

Climb up through groove to good face climbing above.

Start one meter left of the open book just right of 'Shroom Hunter'. Well-known scary "17".

A short route 20m left of 'FUG'.

Ascend up grey face in the middle of the buttress.

Start 8m right of 'Grunt'. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

A hardish move through the groove near the ground.

Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right.

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.

An extension of either 'Bob' or 'Milou' -- climb the striking arête near the top of the cliff.

A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of 'Chics for Free', climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23

Climbs the secret corridor crack to some of the best jugs in Boven. Spicy.

Crack line just right of 'Midnight Mission'. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto 'Thermal' block at the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.

Takes the slanting crack just right of 'Blood in the Dust'. Continue up the arête and out right to the lower-offs at the high point.

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from 'Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble', opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

This route ascends the corner to the left of 'Please Don't Touch'.

Shares the first bolt with 'Crouching Tiger', then climb up the slab.

Start inside a straddle width chimney 20m right of the obvious 'The Huffing Warthog' crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the 'Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas' corner.

Face climbing can't get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

30m of 'Lotter's Desire'. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

Climb the face left of 'Smokey the Bear' up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

Climbs through a series of overlaps on good red rock on the left hand side of the buttress.

Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of 'Lunatic Fringe'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets.