Ascents in Gyeongsangbuk-do

First pitch is 5.8 Second pitch is 5.6 Third pitch is 5.12d

Didn't climb pitch 3. Will edit this after getting permission.

P1 can easily be climbed on a small set of cams. P1 and P2 can be linked. P2 is slabby with no good gear. P3 is an extension to the top graded 5.12. Climb was originally a 2 pitch graded 5.8.

hard hard

하산로가 찾기 어렵고 조금 위험함. 하산로를 정확히 모르는 경우, 60자일 두개를 가져가서 하강할것. 옆에 다른 하강포인트를 이용하는 경우 다른 등반팀과 겹치지 않도록 주의. It is hard to find the way and bit dangerous to walk down from the top of the ridge. If you don't know the exact way to walk down, bring 2 sets of 60m rope for rappelling down. Be careful not to overlap with other climbing teams when using the other rappel point.

hard hard

A reachy mantel move

Hard for to read and figure out the crux and quite sustained at the grade.

Easier for me than the 5.10a next door but it still has a funky crux move.

The route was generally good to climb with. However, there are rusted bolts. There are 4 bolts and then the anchor point. The first and 4th bolts were good. The second bolt was partially rusted and trust I guess. The holds above the second bolt was good. However, the third bolt was rusted, wobbly and less trustable. Since I liked the overhung part above the third bolt, I just went up to the anchor. This place has got a very good anchor type, big circular stainless steel ring. Except those two bolts, the route was classic.

Working move from bolt 3 to bolt 4

Hard finish. Need to be fast, without hesitation.

This route is well bolted. Easy climb up to second bolt. The crux is between second and third bolt. Crimp holds between second and third bolt should be climbed to the left. There is a little crack line to the right is deceiving. I couldn’t go. When I tried on the left, I could move up. Climbed the route with few breaks and learned the move and went to the top. Red pointed the second time climbing on the route. The overhung part near the fourth bolt was solid, cracks and jugs. It is a classic route to try though.

Bolt 4: left hand crimp. Working feet position

crimpy! My fingers weren't warmed up before this one, but they sure were afterwards. They were so pumped! lol

Crimpy warmup, good

To route looked fine looking at below. Bolts and anchors were good too. However, the distance between first and second bolt was longer than usual. The critical moving point had a slippery foot hold made me down climb and jump down. That scared me to death. Because taking a fall from second bolt pulling the rope make you hit the ground. May be fixing the second bolt half or full one meter below could make me rate classic. No one wants to fall from the second bolt and break the bones.

The route looked nice to the top rope point of view. But I have to mention the wired part of this climb. The climbing holds were good for the grade 5.10B until the first couple of bolts. However, there were hardly any good holds holds on the bolt line to climb with. No chalk mark on the bolt line too. The holds and chalk marks were far left to the bolt line. I am not sure how it would be to lead this route.

There are bats living in the crack. It's full of bat poo there!