Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | ||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2023 | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
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6a | ★★ Tierno doy una / Sutra - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | Es Capdellà | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Feb 2024 | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | Caimari | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
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5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | Caimari | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | Caimari | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | ||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
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4b+ 4c | ★★ 100 Duros | 25m, 10 | Puig St. Martí | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | |||
cool moves, long climb, and fantastic view from top
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6a+ 6b | ★★ ORC | 25m, 10 | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
2nd go. Fingery and technical start, then easier but still not a present
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 27m, 10 | Caimari | ★ Good | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
4c | ★★ 100 Duros - with Sandra †, Jarno | 25m, 10 | Puig St. Martí | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
Too hot in T-Shirt
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5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 10 | Caimari | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | Caimari | ★ Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | Es Capdellà | Sun 11th Feb 2024 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | |||
4b+ 4c | ★ La Mosca | 25m, 9 | Puig St. Martí | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
hard slab in the middle if climbed directly
|
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5c | ★★ La ley de la frontera | 25m, 9 | Can Ortigues | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Nov 2013 | |||
Cool & strange climbing, quite tricky for the grade. Very hard boulder start (6a-6b), possibly broken holds? A very low bolt seems to be there to aid...
|
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com | 20m, 9 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sat 30th Nov 2013 | |||
Excellent route at this grade with an awkward traverse over the flake in the middle (probably I did an Alzheimer flash...)
|
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6b+ | ★ Relaja el hojete | 25m, 9 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sat 30th Nov 2013 | |||
Nice route with some hard metres over the first red bulge. Next time: redpoint!
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6b+ | ★ Relaja el hojete | 25m, 9 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Nov 2014 | |||
Finally redpointed it after failing on it last year. The delicate move to the middle slot still feels terrible
|
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5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra †, Arvin, Lautent, Yue | 20m, 9 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | |||
Nice climbing around the middle flake and an astonishing hard finish. Repeat.
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6a | ★★ Con El Puño Por Debajo (Con El Puno Por Debajo) - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 28m, 9 | Caimari | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † | 20m, 9 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | Caimari | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
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6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | Caimari | Fri 16th Feb 2024 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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5b+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer | 25m, 8 | Puig St. Martí | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
long and just delightful
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6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 15m, 8 | Caimari | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | Puig St. Martí | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
5b 5a | ★ Fup - with Giggler | 23m, 8 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | |||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | Caimari | ★ Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Crack | 17m, 7 | Cala Magraner | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
Excellent easy route
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6a | ★★ Chicharra loca | 16m, 7 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Nov 2014 | |||
Cool down route in the evening sun. Quite hard start, then easy going. Nice one!
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6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with Sandra †, Arvin | 16m, 7 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Nov 2015 | |||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with Arvin, Sandra † | 18m, 7 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Nov 2016 | |||
In sneakers, put up the rope for Arvin. Really cool route for the grade.
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4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 26m, 7 | Puig St. Martí | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
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4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF | 18m, 7 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Mar 2019 | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
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6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with LFF | 16m, 7 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Mar 2019 | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
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6a | Left Wing | 20m, 6 | Tijuana | Sat 27th Nov 2010 | ||||
5b+ 5c | ★ Tio Listo | 18m, 6 | Puig St. Martí | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
Partly wet. And the bush at mid height is getting to large...
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6a | ★ Apreta peta | 20m, 6 | La Vall Verda | Tue 22nd Nov 2011 | ||||
6a | ★ Atila | 18m, 6 | Puig St. Martí | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
2nd go. No elan so early the morning...
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6a | ★ Apreta peta | 20m, 6 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 24th Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat. Several times it looks easier than it actually is, always escaspable to the left.
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6b | ★ The Blob Right-hand | 6 | Caimari | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2013 | |||
Gets gradually harder towards the top. Anchor (single bolt) hard to reach / clip, would have been better placed 20cm to the left.
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6a | ★ Apreta peta | 20m, 6 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Nov 2014 | |||
And another repeat. Winter sun feels so good!
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6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Sandra †, Arvin | 17m, 6 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Nov 2015 | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Sandra †, Arvin | 17m, 6 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Nov 2015 | |||
Once you have mastered the hard pull out of the overhanging crack, difficulties are mostly over.
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6a | ★ Apreta peta - with Arvin, Sandra †, Laurent, Yue | 20m, 6 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Mon 31st Oct 2016 | |||
6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | Puig St. Martí | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | Cala Bota | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | Cala Bota | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | Cala Bota | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | Cala Bota | ★ Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
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5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | Cala Bota | ★ Good | Tue 25th Feb 2020 | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
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5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | Torre d'en Bèu | ★ Good | Fri 5th Nov 2021 | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
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6a | ★★ Sa nyoscla (Sa nyoscia) | 14m, 5 | Cala Magraner | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
Two reachy moves in the middle are the solution
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever | 20m, 5 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Nov 2011 | |||
Short and tricky
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5b+ | ★ Wall and Groove | 20m, 5 | Cala Magraner | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
Fun climb, not obvious
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever | 20m, 5 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 24th Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat. Felt so much easier than 2 years ago. Excellent moves in the middle part.
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5c+ 6a | ★ The Blob Indirect | 12m, 5 | Caimari | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2013 | |||
Some reachy moves and a bit polished, too, not a present for 5+! Without using the root even harder.
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever | 20m, 5 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Nov 2014 | |||
And another repeat, for warmup, even though it was very warm and sunny
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with Arvin, Sandra †, Laurent, Yue | 20m, 5 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Mon 31st Oct 2016 | |||
5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | Cala Bota | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | Cala Bota | ★ Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | Cala Bota | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
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3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | Cala Bota | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with LFF | 20m, 5 | La Vall Verda | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | |||
Quickdraw rescue
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5c 5b - c | ★★ Selva Esmeralda (Quatre dents) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Sa Font | Average | Tue 2nd Nov 2021 | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
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6a+ 6a | ★★ NN2 (Quatre dents i un nas) - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Sa Font | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Nov 2021 | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
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6a | ★★ Macaco | 14m, 4 | Puig de Garrafa | Fri 26th Nov 2010 | ||||
5b+ 5c | ★★ Paramuero | 11m, 4 | Cala Magraner | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
too short
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Paramuero | 11m, 4 | Cala Magraner | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
6a | ★★ Macaco | 14m, 4 | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Fri 29th Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat.
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6a | ★★ Macaco | 14m, 4 | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Sun 1st Dec 2013 | |||
6c | ★★ Bateria baixa - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 8m, 4 | Ca's Català | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
Really hard only until 2nd bolt, but the rest is not totally given neither. A bit too short, more a highball boulder...
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6a | ★★ Viento (The Crack) - with Sandra †, Arvin | 15m, 4 | Cala Magraner | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
So lazy today! Nice line following a thin crack into a slabbish finish. The bolts look a bit spaced, but they are in perfect position.
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6a | ★★ Macaco - with Arvin, Sandra † | 14m, 4 | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Sat 5th Nov 2016 | |||
5 3c - 4a | ★★ El Niño - with Norima | 8m, 3 | Puig St. Martí | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
Quickdraw rescue. Not bad, but far too short.
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | Cala Bota | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
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4a | Centro - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 8m, 1 | Valldemossa | Don't Bother | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Very hard overhanging start, 5 for sure. The rest one can forget. Did it just to get the rope down.
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6a | ★★ Suphi | 24m | Valldemossa | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Nov 2012 | |||
Excellent and varied climbing. Probably an Alzheimer onsight.
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6b+ | ★★ Central Right | 38m | Valldemossa | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Nov 2012 | |||
too lazy to lead...
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6b+ 6b | ★★ Central Right | 38m | Valldemossa | ★ Good | Sun 27th Nov 2011 | |||
Until 2nd top. Quite funny and relaxing upper half.
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6a+ 6b | ★ Pepa | 20m | Valldemossa | Average | Wed 21st Nov 2012 | |||
thermal overload - one short stop after the crux to get rid of shirt...
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4a 4 | ★ Dimension paralela (Orange Corner) | 15m | Puig de Garrafa | Wed 24th Nov 2010 | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Al tanto que va de canto | 21m | Puig de Garrafa | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Nov 2010 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Ella ya no vive aqui | 18m | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Sat 24th Nov 2012 | |||
Brutal start followed by a delicate traverse.
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6b | ★★ Lucas | 15m | Puig de Garrafa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Nov 2011 | |||
First a delicate traverse right, then a powerful traverse left. Lucky 2nd attempt.
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6b | ★★ Bufon | Puig de Garrafa | ★ Good | Fri 25th Nov 2011 | ||||
Pumpy moves on huge holds, tricky at the very end. Got a finger stuck when clipping the chain - panic!
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6b | ★★ Jota jota | 25m | Calvia | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Nov 2012 | |||
Sustained climbing on small holds, never hard, never easy
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4c 5+ | ★★ Pasión interminable | 30m | S' Estret | Mon 22nd Nov 2010 |