Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
Fetting off the ground is the definite crux for me. Thanks for Fran building a higher and higher rock pile for me to reach the starting hold...Thanks Nacho for the beta spray!
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7a+ | ★★ Draculin | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Think it's 7b in the guidebook.
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7c+ | ★★★ Malasombra | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | ||||
project
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7c+ 7c | ★★★ Maligna | 25m, 13 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | ||||
5 tries so I would say it's harder than 7c but not quite 7c+. Badly bolted. Needed to skip the bolt at the headwall.
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9a | ★★★ Wild Publico | Margalef | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||
Bouldery crux with dynamic moves on mono and crimps then going left into pal publico 8c. For sure one of the best lines in margalef
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7a | ★ Roig Hefner - with Niamh Holmes | 20m, 6 | Margalef | Mon 10th Jan 2022 | |||||
Start was hard finding feet. End was fine but run-out
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6c | ★★ Guirlache - with Niamh Holmes | 20m, 8 | Margalef | Tue 11th Jan 2022 | |||||
Felt easier than the one to the right. Could just have been easier to read though.
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6c | ★★ Setareh - with Niamh Holmes | 20m | Margalef | Mon 10th Jan 2022 | |||||
Foot popped on onsight just below chains. Felt way better climbing on red point anyway
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella - with CorneliusChoong, Ky, szuk | 25m | Margalef | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
6th bolt is loose
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6b+ | ★★ Memoria Histerica - with Luc P | 20m | Margalef | Sat 4th Nov 2023 | |||||
Horrible start, from a high unstable cairn.
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6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi - with Fabio | 16m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
Nice one. Tough finish for me.
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6c | ★★ Guirlache — 2 attempts - with Fabio | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
Increasing difficulties 😅
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6c | Gear on ★★ Setareh - with Fabio | 20m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
Hard onsight fight. Felt harder then the left one.
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||||
A bit of sharp pockets near the end, not so pleasant to climb
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7b | ★★ Zona Mixta | 25m | Margalef | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||||
Easy start, bouldery finish on a roof with sharp pockets.. unpleasant
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | ||||
One random move, rest ok, quite polished.. One go to see the hold, about to had a try but the quickdraws were gone..
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | Margalef | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||||
Too painful to be enjoyable
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Average | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | ||||
A bit of sharp pockets near the end, not so pleasant to climb
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent — 3 attempts - with Wei Gao, CorneliusChoong, Ky | 20m | Margalef | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||||
Had the onsight attempt as warm up. Flashed pumped 😰
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8b | ★★★ Batuka | 20m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
3 rd go!!!!!
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8b | ★★★ Súper Vixens (Super vixens) | 24m, 8 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | ||||
8b/+ #hard
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8c | ★★★ Pal Este | 24m, 12 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | ||||
Super route, super painful! Fell off 5 times at the very end 2 year ago.
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies | 23m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2015 | ||||
In a day, 4th try, nice end of the year!
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7c+ | ★★★ Malasombra | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
Tanto per completare i 4 tiri su questa paretina molto bella
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8a+ | ★★★ Braguetasso | 20m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st Dec 2012 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Malasombra | 20m, 10 | Margalef | Thu 22nd Mar 2018 | |||||
7a | ★★ Reventuning | 19m, 7 | Margalef | Tue 25th Dec 2012 | |||||
El nombre lo dice todo, petada de via! A MUERTE!
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7c+ 7c | ★★★ Maligna | 25m, 13 | Margalef | Thu 27th Dec 2012 | |||||
#2go Viote, sin mas. Mi primer 7c+, asegurador el maquina y motivante Urko!:) A MUERTE!
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7c+/8a ~8a | ★★ Especial Caballeros | 23m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Mar 2024 | ||||
热身摸了一下,屋檐后面没快挂了就没摸
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8a | ★★ Innuendo | 18m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Mar 2024 | ||||
十把左右完成
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6c | ★★ Setareh - with Andreass | 20m | Margalef | Sun 25th Dec 2022 | |||||
Steel biners at the top don't have much life left in them!
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6a+ 6a | ★ Per Molts Anys | 15m | Margalef | Don't Bother | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||
Molt rara per ser un 6a
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jan 2014 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Draculin - with Sam Williams | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
GNARLY! Mono to start with, good warm up! NOT!!!
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7b+ | ★ La Gomorra - with Lynne Malcolm | 12m, 5 | Margalef | Average | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Bloody polish (Pawlish... not Po-lish). Wasn't so keen on this, just popular because it's the warm up for the harder routes
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies - with Sam Williams | 23m, 10 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
SICK!!! V10 boulder crux off the ground with an 8a+ to finish. Got beta from Wiz and the top was easy - just need to get through the boulder once...
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies - with Sam Williams | 23m, 10 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Bottom boulder is not good when the sun is on it Can do in two parts but need to do it in one! Don't know if I can be assed falling off this boulder continuously Cleaned to the top!
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8c+ | Pal Norte - with Sam Williams | 24m, 11 | Margalef | Average | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
SHARP!!! I need to come and try this when I have more skin... Alex Megos has leather glove hands!
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal - with Sam Williams | 25m | Margalef | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Laps at the end of the day - nice to finish the day of with a bit of enduro training
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent - with Sam Williams | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Classic! B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania (Trasilvania) - with Alan Pierce | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Onsight attemot fell at the big move If I would have done that then I would have unsighted for sure. I think I would have flashed!
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania (Trasilvania) - with Alan Pierce | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Felt easy 2nd go Good route but not the classic it is made out to be
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal - with Sam Williams | 25m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Cool - didn't feel too much harder than either of the 7a's to the right
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent - with Sam Wiliams | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Warm down - nice route
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng - with Alan Pierce | 20m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Awesome to watch Alan flash this little peach - quite tricky!
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7b+ | ★ La Gomorra | 12m, 5 | Margalef | Mon 8th Jan 2024 | |||||
Lots of dogs today
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies (Los ultimos vampiros hippis) | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Mon 1st Feb 2010 | |||||
Sehr schön, sehr hart
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8b | ★★★ El Ball Del Triceps (Ball de triceps) | 23m, 8 | Margalef | Sun 1st Feb 2009 | |||||
Schön
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8b+ | ★★ Variante Vampiros (Los ultimos vampires… (var.)) | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Sun 1st Feb 2009 | |||||
Schön, 3. Versuch
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8b | ★★★ Batuka (Barbuta) | 20m, 11 | Margalef | Mon 1st Feb 2010 | |||||
Schön
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6c+ | ★★ Kagaito Sakapoko - with Moxi | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
Way to polished footholds... also some fingery holds for the grade
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7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with Moxi | 20m, 6 | Margalef | Average | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
7a? Feels much harder... Polished foot holds at the boulder start
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7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with Moxi | 20m, 6 | Margalef | Average | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
Easier if you know the holds. Still hard for the grade and not healthy for the fingers, especially with the slippery footholds.
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6a | ★ Per Molts Anys | 15m | Margalef | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | |||||
First route in the cold. I had zero sensitivity. No idea about the route. I barely finished ot from the fingertip pain...
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | ||||
Super nice. Got it on 2nd go. Weird start, easy section and sustained pockety finish
2nd Go |
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6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi | 16m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | ||||
at the end
Hard |
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella (Unknown scoop route) | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Dec 2014 | ||||
Spanked at the end of the day. Onsighted to the top crux but ended up with my hands all over the place and had an exciting whipper back down the climb. A radical climb with varied and sustained climbing up awesome features. Best route today.
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6c+ | ★★ In Extremis | 17m, 6 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Not happening in the 4 deg celsius morning. Foot tooth and nail stabbing numb fingers desperately but finally fell off to cold finger pain like I havent felt in years. Actually a really good route of slightly steep sustained pocket pulling. Quite long.
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella (Unknown scoop route) | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
First shot today, 2nd shot total. Cold but brilliant felt much easier today, but still thoroughly enjoyable.
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6c+ 7a | ★ Repos Actiu | 20m | Margalef | Average | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Bouldery pockets for the first 3 bolts, then just long, easy, sharp jug hauling. I wouldnt reccommend it.
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7a | ★★ Beta de Boira | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Sad panda. My first shot ended in the groove near the top. The 2nd shot I made a stupid mistake lower down and pinged off. A real shame, as this route is stunning. Pocket boulder start, then awesome technical tufa, groove, and sloper stemming. My new favourite route at this crag.
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7b | ★★ Zona Mixta | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Funky! Probably soft (though it might be possible to do a hilariously contrived sequence past the roof, though I could touch the bolt and hold the slightly better holds out left). The starting flowstone slab (which was still floing from the recent rain) is engaging techy slabbing. Then steep pocket bouldering to the crux roof, lip turn and headwall. I really enjoyed it.
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
One lap to after Neils send to see if it was as good as he was raving... it was. Solid at the grade. Exactly what I thought the harder pocket climbing at Margalef would be like. Spent some time working the sequences and I hope I can get back to this before we leave.
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7a+ | ★★ De Benicarló Mierdas! (Unknown crack groove) | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Dec 2014 | ||||
2 shots. Struggled on the first lap, but felt great on the 2nd until I followed some red herring chalk out right after the last bolt and couldnt reverse the moves to get back on the right line. Unpleasant compared to its funky 7a+ neighbour, bit sustained and varied with a nails thin finale.
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Dec 2014 | ||||
2nd shot today. 3rd total. Almost did it placing the draws, but muffed the top crux (while feeling fine) due to unrefined foot beta. Felt in control and awesome on the 2nd shot. Sustained and varied and one of my favs at this crag. Had some fun skipping bolts (and clipping at my feet) to guarentee the send.
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Dec 2014 | ||||
Full dark attempt with a rubbish headlamp. Battled the whole way but got spanked by the last 1/3rd. Pretty awesome climb though similar to its neighbours with bouldery start, slighly steep pocketing, and thin techy grey slab finale.
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6c+ | ★★★ Chapalegre (Route#9) | 18m, 6 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | ||||
Nice route. Didnt have the juice at the end of the day.
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7a | ★★ Beta de Boira | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Nov 2018 | ||||
Excellent route - from start to finish. Waited for the crux... but it never came
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6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
Nice but a bit repetitive...
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6c | ★★ Abanibi | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||||
The others to the left are better...
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Nov 2018 | ||||
Loved it! Very very cool start, and then everything else just got better and better!
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6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
Excellent with a very nice crux!
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6c | ★ Supermaña - with Mirko | 18m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Iler-Crack - with Mirko | 20m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
6c | ★★ Guirlache - with Mirko | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with Philip | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
Quite tough for the fingers and a wrong decision cost me the onsight.
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7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with Philip | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
Even knowing what I had to do I found this route hard for the grade. Still have to get used to the slippery footholds, too
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6b | ★★ Ni pa ti - with frenchies | 16m | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | ||||
Ok to get used to style
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7a+ | ★★ Zona Mixta | 25m | Margalef | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Very soft for 7b. I would say it's 7a+ unless you restrict yourself and don't touch the left wall and the crack between the walls
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7b | ★★ El Gordinflon - with LarsKr | 25m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | ||||
Polished boulder for the start, pumpy 7a after the third quickdraw.
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7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with LarsKr | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | ||||
Boulder for the start, hard for the grade.
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7c+ 7c | ★★★ Maligna | 25m, 13 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2013 | ||||
Decided to warmup on it. So just bolt to bolt.
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7c+ 7c | ★★★ Maligna | 25m, 13 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2013 | ||||
Felt quite easy. Feeliing really fit.
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng - with chou chou halperin | 20m | Margalef | Feb 2020 | |||||
Didn't pump out at the top
Good climb
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6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | Feb 2020 | |||||
Very good
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
Another cold day! Classical beauty:)
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2019 | ||||
#2go Polished bouldery crux in the lower part; beautiful pocket climbing afterwards:)
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||||
Awesome kneebar no hands!
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8a+ | ★★★ Toni Kaneloni | 22m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2020 | ||||
#2go Damn close on the flash then solid 2nd! Amazing tufa and pockety upper part:) biggest thx to Matéo for convincing to something harder afterwards and the perfect beta on top;)
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2019 | ||||
Schena klassika aber frostfinga;)
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7b | ★★★ La Drecera | 24m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
Pretty hard start with tufas! Already totally exhausted after falling stupid 3m before the chains in the neighbouring 'Ximpleta' in my onsight-go...
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7a | ★★ Beta de Boira | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Crux at the start - very nice!
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7a+ | ★★ Draculin — 2 attempts - with Anna | 20m, 8 | Margalef | Mon 1st Jan 2024 | |||||
Better holds than it looks Like!
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7a | ★ Roig Heffner - with Anna | 20m, 6 | Margalef | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | |||||
Cruxy boulder at the beginning followed by some runouts.
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6b | ★★ Ni pa ti | 16m | Margalef | Sun 14th Nov 2021 | |||||
Not my style
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6c | ★★ Guirlache - with paja a zuzka | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | ||||
Failed when clipping the anchor 🙈
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6b | ★ Perepunyetes | 16m | Margalef | Don't Bother | Mon 30th Oct 2017 | ||||
Very tough bouldery slab start, too hard for the grade in my opinion. Much harder than Ni pa ti on the left, which has shared ending of the route. Middle and end is nice.
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6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | |||||
Wow, pocket pulling is crazy!!!
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7b+ | ★ La Gomorra | 12m, 5 | Margalef | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | |||||
Hmm few burns middle is good bottom in hard top is easy!! Don't think I'll come back but def packs a punch!!
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