Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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8b | ★★★ El Ball Del Triceps | 23m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2011 | ||||
nice but sharp
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8b | El orden esta en el casos (El orden está en el caos) | 23m, 8 | Margalef | Sat 21st Jan 2023 | |||||
Soft
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8a+ | Camino a la perdición | Margalef | Tue 31st Jan 2017 | ||||||
Bien de manubrios, muy guapa
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8a+ | El Pililón | 29m, 10 | Margalef | Sat 21st Jan 2023 | |||||
Hard
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8a | Moriarty | 25m, 9 | Margalef | Sat 4th Feb 2017 | |||||
7b+ | ★ La Gomorra - with Lynne Malcolm | 12m, 5 | Margalef | Average | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Bloody polish (Pawlish... not Po-lish). Wasn't so keen on this, just popular because it's the warm up for the harder routes
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7b+ | ★★ Globetrotter | 25m, 8 | Margalef | Sat 4th Dec 2021 | |||||
Soft
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal - with Sam Williams | 25m | Margalef | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Laps at the end of the day - nice to finish the day of with a bit of enduro training
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal - with Sam Williams | 25m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Cool - didn't feel too much harder than either of the 7a's to the right
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7b | ★★ Zona Mixta | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Funky! Probably soft (though it might be possible to do a hilariously contrived sequence past the roof, though I could touch the bolt and hold the slightly better holds out left). The starting flowstone slab (which was still floing from the recent rain) is engaging techy slabbing. Then steep pocket bouldering to the crux roof, lip turn and headwall. I really enjoyed it.
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7a+ | ★★ Draculin - with Sam Williams | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
GNARLY! Mono to start with, good warm up! NOT!!!
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Dec 2017 | ||||
finally some big holes that i can pull
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7a+ | ★★ Draculin | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
Think it's 7b in the guidebook.
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Nov 2018 | ||||
Loved it! Very very cool start, and then everything else just got better and better!
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7a+ ~7a | ★★ Dulce Bella - with M.T. | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jan 2024 | ||||
Nice route. You can find some kneebars.
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent - with Sam Williams | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Jan 2014 | ||||
Classic! B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent - with Sam Wiliams | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Warm down - nice route
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng - with Alan Pierce | 20m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Awesome to watch Alan flash this little peach - quite tricky!
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | ||||
Interesting route
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Average | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
Very nice. Unfortunately too tired already
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7a | ★★ Beta de Boira | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
Nice!
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | Tue 12th Dec 2017 | |||||
alsheimer onsight
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | |||||
A bit of sharp pockets near the end, not so pleasant to climb
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7a | ★★ Reventuning | 19m, 7 | Margalef | Tue 25th Dec 2012 | |||||
El nombre lo dice todo, petada de via! A MUERTE!
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
Another cold day! Classical beauty:)
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2019 | ||||
Schena klassika aber frostfinga;)
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Average | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | ||||
A bit of sharp pockets near the end, not so pleasant to climb
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7a | ★★ Beta de Boira | 25m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Nov 2018 | ||||
Excellent route - from start to finish. Waited for the crux... but it never came
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
boulder start and ease off with some sustained moves. cool
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
Taking it easy with the fingers. bouldery start
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7a | ★★ Reventuning - with Martina Demmel | 19m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
tricky to read and follow the arete
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Oct 2008 | ||||
Vraiment beau. Départ un peu bourrin et la fin dans un beau mur vertical.
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | Margalef | Wed 11th Jan 2023 | |||||
Without stone pyramid at the start. Harder than the 7a to the right.
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | Margalef | Wed 11th Jan 2023 | |||||
Without stone pyramid at the start. Easier than the 7a to the left.
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6c+ | ★★ Iler-Crack - with Mirko | 20m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Iler-Crack | 20m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | ||||
Soft
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6c+ | ★★ Kagaito Sakapoko | 20m, 6 | Margalef | Average | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | ||||
Not used to climb overhangs with 2 finger holds #hard
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6c+ | ★★ Kagaito Sakapoko - with Martina Demmel | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
hard and very run out especially from the third to forth bolt.
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6c | ★ Supermaña - with Mirko | 18m, 7 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
6c | ★★ Guirlache - with Mirko | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | ||||
6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
Nice but a bit repetitive...
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6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
Excellent with a very nice crux!
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6c | ★★ Setareh - with Martina Demmel | 20m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
nice pocket climbing
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6c | Gear on ★★ Setareh - with Fabio | 20m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
Hard onsight fight. Felt harder then the left one.
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6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Apr 2023 | ||||
Ruton
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6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Jan 2023 | ||||
Great!
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6c | ★★ Abanibi - with M.T. | 23m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jan 2024 | ||||
Very interesting route!
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6c | ★★ Guirlache - with Niamh Holmes | 20m, 8 | Margalef | Tue 11th Jan 2022 | |||||
Felt easier than the one to the right. Could just have been easier to read though.
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6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi | 16m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | ||||
at the end
Hard |
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6b+ | ★★ Memoria Histerica | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
nice warm up but very high start.
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6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi - with Ben | 16m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2023 | ||||
The confirmation that what they say about Margalef and pockets is no fake news. Stiff for 6b+, but also very nice, continuous movement.
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Memoria Histerica | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
6b in the 2022 guidebook
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6b+ | ★★ Lajote vil | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Feb 2024 | |||||
Cool new route (2023) left of Reventuning, out a small overhang and then following a crack. High first bolt, but easy to get to.
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Memoria Histerica - with Evelyn Livermore | 20m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Feb 2024 | ||||
Super nice route. Graded 6b in the new Margalef guidebook, which sounds about right.
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6b | ★★ Ni pa ti - with frenchies | 16m | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | ||||
Ok to get used to style
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6b | ★ Perepunyetes - with Ben | 16m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Apr 2023 | ||||
Bouldery start (more than 6b for sure) leads to pumpy, continuous climbing in a beautiful pocketed face. Ben spent a while here, as did he on the 6a all the way to the left the day before!
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6a+ | ★★ Blank duplicate - with tom | 19m, 8 | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Dec 2023 | ||||
nice warm up with a tricky middle section
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6a | ★ Per Molts Anys | 15m | Margalef | Sat 23rd Feb 2019 | |||||
First route in the cold. I had zero sensitivity. No idea about the route. I barely finished ot from the fingertip pain...
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6a | ★ Per Molts Anys - with Ben | 15m | Margalef | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2023 | ||||
First climb in Spain ever! Happy to be in Margalef in good company and mindset. As advertised, lots of pockets! Balancy and technical- quite a bit for only 6a. What a beautiful place
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6a | ★ Per Molts Anys | 15m | Margalef | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Jan 2023 | ||||
Seemed hard for a 6a…
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7c+ | ★★★ Malasombra | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
Tanto per completare i 4 tiri su questa paretina molto bella
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7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
Fetting off the ground is the definite crux for me. Thanks for Fran building a higher and higher rock pile for me to reach the starting hold...Thanks Nacho for the beta spray!
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7b | ★★★ La Drecera | 24m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
Pretty hard start with tufas! Already totally exhausted after falling stupid 3m before the chains in the neighbouring 'Ximpleta' in my onsight-go...
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7a+ | ★★ Dulce Bella | 25m | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||||
Awesome kneebar no hands!
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6c+ 7a | ★ Repos Actiu | 20m | Margalef | Average | Tue 2nd Dec 2014 | ||||
Bouldery pockets for the first 3 bolts, then just long, easy, sharp jug hauling. I wouldnt reccommend it.
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng - with chou chou halperin | 20m | Margalef | Feb 2020 | |||||
Didn't pump out at the top
Good climb
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6c+ | ★★ Kagaito Sakapoko - with Moxi | 20m, 6 | Margalef | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | ||||
Way to polished footholds... also some fingery holds for the grade
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6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | ||||
Awesome pocket pulling madness!
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6c | ★★ Setareh | 20m | Margalef | Feb 2020 | |||||
Very good
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6c | ★★ Abanibi | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||||
The others to the left are better...
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6c ~6b+ | ★★ Tastavins | 20m, 8 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
6b+ in the 2022 guidebook
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9a | ★★★ Wild Publico — 3 attempts | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Nov 2022 | |||||
Majeur. Bloc en bas en gros dévers puis resi.
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9a | ★★★ Wild Publico | Margalef | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||
Bouldery crux with dynamic moves on mono and crimps then going left into pal publico 8c. For sure one of the best lines in margalef
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9a | ★★★ Wild Publico | Margalef | Mon 5th Dec 2022 | ||||||
Hard monofinger move on the start.
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8c+ 8c+/9a | Frenesí | 25m, 11 | Margalef | Wed 21st Dec 2022 | |||||
8c+/9a creo yo. Con un crux dinámico que me costaba bastaba bastante. 4 pegues...
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8c | ★★★ Pal Este | 24m, 12 | Margalef | Sun 12th Feb 2017 | |||||
Buena y exigente ruta pero como duele este paño de roca...
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8c | ★★★ Pal Este | 24m, 12 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | ||||
Super route, super painful! Fell off 5 times at the very end 2 year ago.
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8c | ★★★ Pal Este | 24m, 12 | Margalef | Tue 28th Nov 2017 | |||||
#2go Amazing pocket resistance.
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies (Los ultimos vampiros hippis) | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Mon 1st Feb 2010 | |||||
Sehr schön, sehr hart
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8b+ | ★★ Variante Vampiros (Los ultimos vampires… (var.)) | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Sun 1st Feb 2009 | |||||
Schön, 3. Versuch
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies | 23m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2015 | ||||
In a day, 4th try, nice end of the year!
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8c 8b+ | ★★ Los Ultimos Vampiros Hippies | 23m, 10 | Margalef | Sat 4th Dec 2021 | |||||
Que buena vía, con un bloquecito en la entrada y el resto agradecido. Que pena caerme después del Crux... Y como de costumbre al segundo...
2nd Go |
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8b | ★★★ El Ball Del Triceps (Ball de triceps) | 23m, 8 | Margalef | Sun 1st Feb 2009 | |||||
Schön
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8b | ★★★ Batuka (Barbuta) | 20m, 11 | Margalef | Mon 1st Feb 2010 | |||||
Schön
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8b | ★★★ Súper Vixens (Super Vixens) | 24m, 8 | Margalef | Mon 30th Jan 2017 | |||||
Muy recomendable y fanática al segond go muy cerca en el último paso, con el mono pillado y con herida también:( luego 2 pegues más...
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8b | ★★★ Batuka | 20m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
3 rd go!!!!!
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8b | ★★★ Súper Vixens (Super vixens) | 24m, 8 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | ||||
8b/+ #hard
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8b | ★★★ Batuka | 20m, 11 | Margalef | Sun 20th Mar 2011 | |||||
8a+ | Nacido para perder | Margalef | Thu 2nd Feb 2017 | ||||||
Buena vía del maestro vicent muy guapa #2go
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8a+ | El Pililón | 29m, 10 | Margalef | Mon 20th Feb 2017 | |||||
Un abandono en toda regla en el.invertido antes de salir a la placa #2go
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8a+ | ★★★ Braguetasso | 20m, 11 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Toni Kaneloni | 22m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2020 | ||||
#2go Damn close on the flash then solid 2nd! Amazing tufa and pockety upper part:) biggest thx to Matéo for convincing to something harder afterwards and the perfect beta on top;)
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8a+ | Nacido para perder | Margalef | Tue 24th Jan 2023 | ||||||
Hice la R1 hace mucho tiempo y hoy estuve muy cerca de hacer lo de arriba al primero, pero caí y fueron 2 intentos... Que frío!!!!!
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8a | ★★★ Transilvania (Trasilvania) - with Alan Pierce | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | ||||
Felt easy 2nd go Good route but not the classic it is made out to be
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8a | La del Oscar r1 | Margalef | Thu 26th Jan 2017 | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 31st Dec 2012 | ||||
8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jan 2014 | ||||
8a | ★★★ Transilvania | 20m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2019 | ||||
#2go Polished bouldery crux in the lower part; beautiful pocket climbing afterwards:)
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8a | ★★★ Ximpleta | 22m, 11 | Margalef | Tue 24th Jan 2023 | |||||
2nd Go
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8a | ★★ Innuendo | 18m | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Mar 2024 | ||||
十把左右完成
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