Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 29th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, right | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hugo - with Matt Evans | ||||||
The idea was to warm up on this but got a bit pumped and had trouble committing above the bolt in the end... I did get warm anyways, the send will be for another day.
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7a+ ~7a | ★ Ingen överhängande fara — 2 attempts - with Matt Evans | ★ Good | |||||
Did a beta that goes a to the right at the start, and avoids matching on the terrible crux hold. 2nd bolt precipped, but could have been done with a longer draw/bigger balls. This way I would say its soft 7a, the other way its harder, but feels a bit like elimination.
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7c Hard | ★★★ Siddharta — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Felt tough, but an absolut kingline!
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7b Hard | ★★ Orup | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt quite hard, but apparently fucked up the crux - there is supposed to be an easier beta
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Mon 27th May 2024 - Morarna | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Borrelia | ||||||
Got eaten by mosquitos and wasn't able to think about the beginning - just cleaned my friends quickdraws
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Ryssgraven | |||||||
5+ | Store Bror Kanin | 20m, 4 | |||||
No trad gear used
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, middle | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Impuls | ||||||
Felt very hard for the grade.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Skevik | |||||||
7b Hard | ★★ Tabu — 2 attempts | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
cruxy, bad conditions in the sun
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Ravinen | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Zyklon — 2 attempts - with Ola, Claudia Figueras | 10m | |||||
Really crimpy and powerful. Not a good warmup.
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7a | ★★ Himmler — 3 attempts - with Ola, Claudia Figueras | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really had to give it all to reach the last jug, soo cool!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
Slab wall | |||||||
5b | ★ Loves Himmelsfärd | ||||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 12:44:34
Climb Duration: 00:08:24
Max. Heart Rate: 121BPM
Height: 11,41m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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5c | Sista färden | ||||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 14:46:21
Climb Duration: 01:18:26
Max. Heart Rate: 156BPM
Height: 16,86m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
West | |||||||
6a | ★ Dubbeldäckare (Första ankaret) | 20m | |||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 15:52:50
Climb Duration: 00:17:33
Max. Heart Rate: 156BPM
Height: 17,65m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Brunn | |||||||
Stora väggen | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★ Kolla Kolla - with Henric B | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Riktigt fint! Bouldrig start, känsligt sva i mitten, sedan brantare och lite pumpigt avslut på superfina grepp. Jag höll höger om bultlinjen i slutet vilket jag tror kan vara soft 6c+ men det ser lite lättare ut till vänster, dock inte lika fint!
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
Slab wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Pokemon Go | ★ Good | |||||
Lite för svettigt idag..
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, right | |||||||
6c | ★★ Den Breve Hugo | ||||||
Upp till näst sista klippet
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Brunn | |||||||
Stora väggen | |||||||
6a Hard | ★★ Hets mot soffgrupp - with Sanna N | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Tuff start för att vara 6a
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6a+ | ★★★ Alla vill till himmelen - with Henrik B | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rätt kul boulder i starten, sedan supersköna grepp och fint sva som avslut.
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5c | ★★ Sannas länk - with Henrik B | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fin och mycket jämnare än flera andra leder här.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Järnpinneväggen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Chippad av staten — 3 attempts - with Matt Evans | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Birthday send! Really like the climb, felt easy on the send go, but slipped off it many times before...
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Dödskalleberget | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Mr Magister | 25m | |||||
First hang dog of part of an 8a (is that grade on 27 crags). Only got half way but actually was fun in the start. Not quite sure about how to clip bolt 5. Wish I'd had more time (but we were camping and I had terrible cramps in the morning, late start). Beta video shows clipping from this crimp but in this hot weather I can't imagine that working. Need to go back. Actually fun route that is not slabby
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7b+ | ★★ Mio | 15m | |||||
Stick clipped to almost last bolt. Moves are reachy. Route is morpho. Conditions were bad even in the shade. Too hot. Got more fun and doable from right before bolt 4 to 5, could've led that. But the reachy stuff in the start is a height and flexibility limit for me. Feet slipping a lot
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Fri 24th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Fjällbacka & Grebbestad Grebbestad Camping Klippan | |||||||
3 ~4 | ★ Wobbla! - with Robin Imskog | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
With current vegetation it feels hard for the grade
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Gåseborg | |||||||
Ravinen | |||||||
7a | ★★ Himmler — 3 attempts - with Matt Evans | 14m | |||||
Last attemt was really good, fell from the last hard move. Could do it directly after. The route is really sustained, lots of moderatly hard moves one atfer the other.
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it.
At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Ålandsklippan | |||||||
Stora Väggen | |||||||
3 | Lätta hörnet | ||||||
Climbed after digging away approx 1m of soil that had been collected on the shelf. After me Roger brushed and cleaned up the route futher.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Utby | |||||||
Resilin | |||||||
7 | ★★ KGB — 3 attempts - with Kristoffer | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Kändes hård idag, antagligen mycket pga värmen
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Skevik | |||||||
7c | ★★ Megadans — 2 attempts | 18m | |||||
Two tries, trying to get back to old high point. Things felt good, but high point didn't come with the injury. Crux starting to feel doable again, but rusty on the section right after it
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Noret | |||||||
Parkeringsväggen | |||||||
8a Hard | ★ Uncle Ted | ★ Good | |||||
Bloody hell what a fight. Hård.
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Tue 21st May 2024 - Kanalklippan | |||||||
5+ | ★ Häxdans | ★ Good | |||||
Second half is good
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Seglora | |||||||
Gamla berget Ankdammen | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Hybrid - with Victor Tolstrup | 15m | |||||
That right handdddd
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Seglora | |||||||
Gamla berget Ugglan | |||||||
6c+ | Nystulet projekt | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Quite confusing which holds are ‘in’
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Seglora | |||||||
Gamla berget Ankdammen | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Hybrid — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
Finally getting the crux consistently
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7a | Lika grym | 10m | Average | ||||
Might have misread but felt much harder
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Seglora | |||||||
Gamla berget Onkel Tuca | |||||||
6c+ ~6b+ | ★ Matildas Groggveranda | 15m | Crap | ||||
Super rusty wire linking the bolts at the anchor
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
Slab wall | |||||||
4b | ★ Loves återuppstånd | ||||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 17:59:25
Climb Duration: 00:10:20
Max. Heart Rate: 121BPM
Height: 13,44m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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5a | ★ Kråkan krax | ||||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 16:12:36
Climb Duration: 00:14:58
Max. Heart Rate: 146BPM
Height: 15,29m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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5b | ★★ Tornando Alley | ||||||
Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131
Time: 14:15:23
Climb Duration: 00:20:31
Max. Heart Rate: 157BPM
Height: 17,67m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Örnberget | |||||||
South, right | |||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★ Ingen överhängande fara - with Matt Evans | ||||||
Found an interesting solution around the crux, but still too tired to send.
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6c | ★★ Den Breve Hugo — 3 attempts - with Matt Evans | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice route with a clear crux, and engaging climbing in the rest of it. The extension in the top is pretty too.
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Järnpinneväggen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Chippad av staten — 4 attempts - with anna | 12m, 6 | |||||
One fall, then up with no rest. Feels super technical, easy to slip off!
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Kullaberg | |||||||
Värdshuset Nord Gubbamalen Lynet-väggen | |||||||
8+ | ★★ Lynet — 2 attempts - with David I | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally found a good beta for the start section. No more working now; lead goes!
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Törnskogsklippan | |||||||
Sportväggen | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | Foxy lady — 2 attempts - with Ola | 7m | Average | ||||
The start is really hard, but even after that its not over!
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6c+ | ★ Emil i tureberga — 3 attempts - with Ola | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Good combination of hard and technical! Very cool sequence.
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Utby | |||||||
Fjällbo - Rope Introväggen | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Indien - with Noémie | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Lite underlig, men stjärnan är för intressant klättring på annorlunda formation. Insåg efteråt att man kan gå strax vänster om bultarna i kruxet istället för en bit år höger i den konstiga grooven som jag gjort varje gång, nog lika svårt men mindre läskigt tror jag.
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6b+ | Botswana - with Noémie | 10m, 4 | Average | ||||
Kruxig. Misslyckat försök förra året, kändes bra idag
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Ruddalen | |||||||
Plan 2 | |||||||
4C | Snedsprickan | ||||||
Cool feature. Couldn't commit to the smeary style feet at first
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4B | ★ Kosmos-Donny | ★ Good | |||||
Rounded top outs are squarey
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5B | ★ Gånglåten Crew | ||||||
No pad. Imagined the shallow right foot popping and having to crawl back to the tram with something broken.
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Utby | |||||||
Utby - Rope Övre väggen | |||||||
7 | ★★ Ingenmansland - with Sanna | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Riktigt pepp på att leda, antagligen mycket säkrare än Till Susanne
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7- | ★★ Till Susanne - with Sanna | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flytten börjar kännas bra och säkra
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Q.Robur - with Ola | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux in the beinning and the very end. Really pretty long route, good job Ola!
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen | |||||||
6+ Easy | ★★★ Bagatell - with Ola | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lots of climbing in those 20m! Definitely easyer if you are tall, and more technical than it looks (dihedral feet!). Fiddled a bit with a placement, but managed to send anyways!
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Kjugekull | |||||||
H8 - Matador | |||||||
6B+ ~6A+ | ★ Näbbgäddan sittstart | ★ Good | |||||
I used the large rail for the left foot. Felt much easier than the beta in the video.
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6A+ ~6A | Torsk | ||||||
Maybe I was just lucky 🤷🏼♂️
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5 ~5+ | ★★ Två goa juggar — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tricky start with slippery feet.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Hallinden Högberget | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Karl Alfred — 2 attempts - with Ola | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took a fall on a cam that I had troble committing to, but it held well! Varied route, with a lot of climbing and a hard crux.
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5 | ★★ Olivia - with Ola | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Trevlig tur upp för berget, spännande sva följd av stemming och stora grepp.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Tjörn & Orust Viks kile Dammen | |||||||
7c+ | ★★★ 30-åriga Kriget — 3 attempts - with JM | ||||||
Såå kul! Efter tre dagars klättring i området är jag dock ganska trött och har väldigt ömma fingrar. Tejp är ett måste.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Hallinden Högberget | |||||||
6 | ★★ Yamamoto - with Ola | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
My first bohuslän 6! This is a route that you climb with your whobe body, was also my first real knebar. A journey into the rock.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Råsklippan | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Gas i magen | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Very good holds but steep enough to get properly pumped with in 8m
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Hallinden Vettekullen Stora väggen | |||||||
7- | ★★ Jum jum - with Ola | 22m | |||||
Small jams lead to a crympy crux, then easyer but fun climbing. Super well protected, good first try on a 7-.
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6- | ★★ Tröttmössans tystnad - with Ola | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very exposed, good holds and a reachy well protected crux. Good start of the vacation!
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4+ | ★ Cora - with Ola | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice jams and offwith. A camalot nr.5 could be good to have.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Hallinden Vettekullen Nedre | |||||||
6- Hard | ★★ Free at first - with Ola | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good placements lead to a cool boulder crux with high feet, did feel a bit like sport climbing.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Bohuslän | |||||||
Tjörn & Orust Vindön | |||||||
7c | WC-17 - with JM | ||||||
So sharp holds!
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7a+ Easy | ★★★ Styv kuling - with JM | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really nice route! Shouldn’t have tried it in December when it was wet, maybe this could have been an insight.
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7c | ★★ Sailor — 4 attempts - with JM | ||||||
Short and crimpy
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Gubben i berget | |||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★ Nutrasweet — 2 attempts - with JM | ★ Good | |||||
Lite kruxigt
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Nirvana - with JM | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Jugfest
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Ågelsjön | |||||||
Lilla Berget | |||||||
7a | ★★ Jaguaren - with Ola | 10m, 4 | |||||
So high to the first bolt! Otherwise felt good, but no time for a red-point attemt.
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Ågelsjön | |||||||
Borrbultspartiet | |||||||
6c | ★★ Borrbult är livet - with Ola | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a nice route! Trust your feet, but not only the feet!
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Ågelsjön | |||||||
Svaplattan | |||||||
6b | ★ La Sportiva från hyllan, vänster — 2 attempts - with Ola | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fell on the veeery last move, touching the top! A real slab school.
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6a | ★ Sweet Jane - with Ola | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Slabbidy slab.
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Kjugekull | |||||||
B2 - Kluvna stenen | |||||||
5 | ★ Hajfena | ★ Good | |||||
Actually rather polished by now.
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6B | ★★ Mr Magnet — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Harder today than 2016. Don't know how to deal with that, but I guess a laugh is the best way 😃 Excellent lowball.
Did it again later during the day and it felt way better. |
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4 | ★★ Claes Klättermus | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice and easy!
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Kjugekull | |||||||
G6 - Mocca | |||||||
5 | Banracing — 2 attempts | Average | |||||
The grip you mantle from feels a bit loose...
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5+ | ★ Svamp Bob — 4 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Felt very slippery and harder than 5+, but I guess it has to do with the conditions.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Åsbro | |||||||
5c | ★ 3 | 15m, 9 | Average | ||||
Onsighted last year but forgot to tick
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6a+ | ★★ 5 | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Cruxy start
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Bräcke, Kärna | |||||||
6a+ | Ormen | 15m | Average | ||||
Weird start, then very easy climbing to the right of the bolts.
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7a | ★★ Tessy — 3 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6c+ in the guide book. Feels harder to me.
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7b+ | Cuatrocientos conejillos | ||||||
Boulder on a rope.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Utby | |||||||
Fjällbo - Rope Rabiesväggen | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Stopplikt | 12m | |||||
Didn't climb the extension which goes at 7b+
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Skevik | |||||||
7b | ★★ Non-Stop — 2 attempts - with Matt Evans | 28m | |||||
Worked on the moves up to the big runout. Good and insecure climbing all the way, I understand why its callted non-stop!
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6b | Hål i dig - with Matt Evans | Don't Bother | |||||
Interesting start, then easier but long between bolts. The climb to the left is much better.
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6c | ★★ Land som stiger - with Matt Evans | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard to read, cool moves!
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Kullaberg | |||||||
Värdshuset Nord Gubbamalen Lynet-väggen | |||||||
8+ | ★★ Lynet - with Pierre Segonne | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn’t remember the beta for the start; is there any climber of normal body length who did this without standing on an extra stone?
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Fri 3rd May 2024 - Ruddalen | |||||||
Gånglåten Stora väggen | |||||||
6A+ | ★ Cave-man fuckers | ★ Good | |||||
En stjärna för upplevelsen och akrobatiska flytt. Synd att man inte kan börja längre in i den ENORMA grottan.
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6A ~5B | Finders keepers | Average | |||||
Blocket undertill kan väl inte vara uteslutet? Vore ju konstigt, så kan väl aldrig hålla 6A. Oväntat balansigt då jag toppade ur genom att ställa mig upp i sprickan
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6A ~6A | ★ Fredriks grej | ★ Good | |||||
Riktigt coolt med så brant klättring och långa flytt på juggar!
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6A+ | ★ Meet the makers, make the meat | ★ Good | |||||
Fint problem. Välj mellan pinch och sloper
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5+ ~5 | Goes around, comes around | Don't Bother | |||||
Jag gick rakt upp i diedret
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4+ ~4 | Home before dinner | Don't Bother | |||||
Hög och förvånandsvärt rolig men egentligen kass sten. Lita inte på knopparna i utsteget, jag drog loss en och höll på att falla 4-5 meter bredvid paddan
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Änggårdsbergen | |||||||
Eklandavallen | |||||||
6B | ★ Ridturen | ★ Good | |||||
Fun problem solving on this one
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Skevik | |||||||
6a+ ~6b+ | ★ Mylingen - with shane | ★ Good | |||||
Bouldery route, fun! Gets really hot in the sun...
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6a | Crescendo - with shane | 22m | Average | ||||
The crux sets the grade. Linked it with "Spaghettiwesterns fader", it flows well.
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6c Easy | ★ Spaghettiwesterns fader - with shane | ★ Good | |||||
Very well bolted. Quite technical, fun route! Linked with crescendo
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7a+ Easy | ★★ Pumpmaskin — 3 attempts - with Matt Evans | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally went down on the third attemt of the day! Everybody heard when i fell on my second attemt, efter the crux... I think it lives up to its name, I felt the pump.
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