Routes in Sweden

One of the four 6- ultra classics in Bohuslän.

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

Huvudväggen

Start just to the right of the groove, keep left into the groove, through the small roof in the narrow inner corner, finish on the slab. One of the longest route on the crag.

One of the originally four ultra 6- classics in Bohuslän.

Very popular beginner route. Well protected and exposed for the grade.

Alternative start to "DNA". Starts in the crag to the right up to the ledge with the tree.

Route nr 70 in guidebook

Share start with 'Nalle Puh' and exit right.

Obvious finger crack just right of the arete, trending slightly left and up to anchors on a large ledge.

One of the four 6- ultra classics in Bohuslän. Can be climbed in one great pitch!

Classic finger crack

Good holds on perfect rock. One of the best bolted 5s in Sweden.

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

Best on the crag? Share anchor with Rommel and Tirpitz

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

Shared start with 'Lata människor (gör sig inte besvär)'. Right exit

Start in the groove, finish slightly left. First bolt high. For the grade a rather hard and mental crux.

Sjöväggen

One of the Skevik classics. Shared start with 'Bates motel' heading left over the shield some meters before the small roof.

Start in the crack, continue up in the corner, "step" left, climb up on the ledge and finish in the face.

One of the most climbed routes in Ågelsjön. Nice climb on good hold, in the end, it joins with "Divaleden".

Sjöväggen

Shares last bolt and anchor with Bussiga Leffe.

Even, long route. Good warm up. Pumpy. Climb the flake/block for 3 meters and continue zig-zag up the straight bolt line on the right wall.

A Stockholm classic. Hard for the grade. The "Tabu-hold" is not in.

original route passes the alcove to the left. straight up it is slightly harder, 6a-ish.

Classic. Slightly scary start on the slab. Crimpy finish.

An obvious hand jam crack from top to bottom drawing from right to left. The top part is at least 1 grade harder than the start. Well protected, through out, full rack up to camalot 2. Aliens is great on this route.