Routes in Berner Oberland

Zirka 50m weiter rechts von "Bons Baisers de Sibérie".

6c obl.

Na ja...

50m rope, 10 quickdraws, nuts

Etwas inhomogen

6a+

Cooler Boulder zum Schluss.

kurze Route bis unters Dach

1. SL: 6c, start technical, on small holds, good foot technique required, then finger crack for a few meters, leading to a piaz-sequence, strenuous, after traverse to the right, a bit more difficult for smaller people, finish again slightly to the left.

2. SL: 6b, start upward to the left, second bolt quite high up, not very many possibilities to put a placement (we put a sling on a small tree). Then steep passage on ok/good holds to the next bolt. Then technical sequence upwards to a blunt left oriented, half moon hold, piaz this hold until you can put the left foot to the left on an ok foothold an mantle to the left, easy finish.

3. SL: 6b, easy start, use long slings for the first bolts to prevent rope drag. Then technical sequence, good footwork needed to bring feet high enough, then climb to the right around the corner to the next bolt. From there traverse to the right, finish straight up, steep, good holds.

4. SL: 6b, first 20m steep upwards, good holds, then traverse to the right, short sequence with blunt holds, good footwork needed (spread the feet, until you can reach a good hold); then traverse to the right an upwards, the last meters technical to the end.

5. SL: 6a+, nice climbing, start a bit bouldery, after not very difficult upwards (to the left are the bolts of the "Fair Hands Line", be careful to take the right bolts, traverse slightly to the right, end a bit technical.

6. SL: 6a, nice climbing, traverse to the right.

7. SL: 6b+, very difficult start, for smaller people not possible to clip the bolt before the crux, stay low and traverse to the right after first bolt, then upwards.

8. SL: 5c, easy start, very technical finish to the left over a slab.

9. SL: 6c, easy a bit technical start, after 2nd bolt very difficult section, you stand on nothing, hold on nothing... somehow it's possible to stick to the wall anyway.... from the second bolt traverse to the right until you have better footholds, than you go up to the next bolt. Then easier section, upwards, good hold on the left, from there clip the bolt above the overhand, than traverse to the right, to a good foothold, than upwards along a shallow crack and over a slab to the finish.

10. SL: 5a, compared to the rest easy finish, a bit slabby but feels very easy after the rest.