Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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8C | |||||||||
8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille | Magic Wood | Sat 15th Oct 2011 | ||||||
Wow! such a mental and condition war for me. Located on the backside of the darkness cave. Has very subtle movement using small, slopey edges and poor feet out a 45 degree overhang. This one is for you Courtney... thanks for supporting me and walking up to the boulder multiple times. Now I can move forward #FA #hard
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8C | In search of lost time (In Search of Time Lost) | Magic Wood | Fri 9th May 2008 | ||||||
The full boulder, starting at the start of left hand of darkness and going left into Remembrance of Things Past. Adds 8A/+ into 8B+. sustained and powerful the whole way. My hardest boulder yet #FA
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8C | In search of lost time | Magic Wood | Sun 28th Aug 2011 | ||||||
second ascent
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8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Nov 2020 | |||||
Such a good one!! Prime conditions in Magic Wood!
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8C | FA ★★★ La Force Tranquille direct | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | |||||
Wow so psyched to add this kingline! You basically do the hardest part of the original force tranquill and then instead of matching the crimp and going out right you do another big move straight up to a pocket from there you do a rather scary top out.
It’s definitely harder than the original line but I like the style a lot so personally I would say it‘s not enough to push it up a full grade. It‘s the logical exit and climbs very well so I would love to see some repititions and hear their opinion 😉
Video online! https://youtu.be/Dr82TsVOEXk
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8C | The Understanding | Magic Wood | 2013 | ||||||
FA
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8C | In search of lost time (In Search of Time Lost) | Magic Wood | Fri 19th Oct 2012 | ||||||
3rd Ascent. Fell off the last move probably 20 times from the start. Started to become a bit of a mental battle. Pulled through today and couldn't be more psyched. Feeling fit and motivated. This one feels lower end for the 8C grade, but I don't have enough experience with the grade to know for sure. Roofs aren't really my style and I'm happy to see myself progress within the realm.
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8C | The Understanding | Magic Wood | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | ||||||
8C | The Power of Now Direct | Magic Wood | Jul 2021 | ||||||
8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille | Magic Wood | Wed 7th Jul 2021 | ||||||
8C | In search of lost time | Magic Wood | Jul 2017 | ||||||
8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2023 | |||||
Great finger strength test piece from DW
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8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille | Magic Wood | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | ||||||
8B+/C | |||||||||
8B+ | FA Dark Matter | Magic Wood | Sat 10th Sep 2011 | ||||||
8B+ | |||||||||
8B+ | Remembrance of things past | Magic Wood | Thu 24th Oct 2013 | ||||||
8B+ | Remembrance of things past | Magic Wood | Fri 12th Oct 2012 | ||||||
This type of roof climbing is not easy for me. Psyched to feel strong on this problem. Really cool moves on some of the best incuts. Now for the low start and the other projects.
Hard |
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8B+ | Tigris sit | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
8B+ | Tigris sit | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
8B+ | Remembrance of things past | Magic Wood | Jul 2017 | ||||||
8B+ | Power of Now | Magic Wood | Sat 20th Aug 2022 | ||||||
These Jugs are too big for 8C
Soft |
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8B+ | Power of Now | Magic Wood | Mon 19th Jul 2021 | ||||||
8B | |||||||||
8A+ 8B | ★★ Riders on the Storm | Magic Wood | ★ Good | Tue 16th Jun 2020 | |||||
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8B | ★★★ The knowing | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | |||||
Soft. Sick line!!
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8B | ★★ Riders on the Storm | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 2nd Aug 2015 | |||||
perhaps the last problem I wanted to try on this trip. turned out to be the first one I tried I didn't really like the start, eventhough it is really cool to find something like this on rock. second part then is just amazing.
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8B | ★★★ The knowing | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | |||||
For sure one of the best walls I`ve climbed! one day the real start will go!
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8B | ★★★ Samadhi | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
8B | ★★ Riders on the Storm | Magic Wood | Fri 1st May 2015 | ||||||
8B | ★★★ The knowing | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||||
Not that far from perfection. Very last try of this mini trip. Sykd for The Understanding now!
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8B | ★★★ The knowing | Magic Wood | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||||
8A+/B | |||||||||
8A+/B ~8B | Dark Sakai — 4 attempts | Magic Wood | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||||
8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie (Electroboogie) | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Sep 2014 | |||||
One of the best lines I've climbed so far. Couldn't reach the left holds, so I had to fight the barn door. Great moves!
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8A 8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
8a/8a+
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8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
NEMESIS! jeez how much I hate this pinch. one of the most perfect holds in the entire wood but I just can`t stick to it. sooo happy it finally worked out!
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8A+ | The bizarre ride | Magic Wood | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | ||||||
Soft
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8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie (Electroboogie) | Magic Wood | Wed 15th May 2019 | ||||||
8A+ | The bizarre ride | Magic Wood | Jul 2017 | ||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Electric Boogie (Electroboogie) | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th May 2019 | |||||
That pinch!!!
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8A+ | The bizarre ride | Magic Wood | May 2023 | ||||||
8A+ | The bizarre ride | Magic Wood | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||||
8A to 8A+ | |||||||||
8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jun 2017 | |||||
8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 13th Jul 2012 | |||||
I was sure that my heel hook doesn't stay up this time but he did. happy about this one. came also close on "Dark Sakai"... next time!
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8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Thu 8th Sep 2005 | ||||||
8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Fri 8th Oct 2010 | ||||||
A roof full of pinches?
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8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | ||||||
8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
8A 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Wed 30th May 2018 | ||||||
8A to 8A+ ~8A+ | ★★★ The left hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Dec 2023 | |||||
8A | |||||||||
8A | Rythmo Brachial | Magic Wood | Sun 12th Aug 2007 | ||||||
8A | ★★ Holy Limit | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
Sick highball!
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8A | Rythmo Brachial (Rythmo Brachiale) | Magic Wood | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | ||||||
8A | ★★ Holy Limit | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
thx Jakob and Chris for checking out the beta. was on the limit on the flash. numb fingers and a slight pump made it exciting. glad I finally managed to flash something a bit harder again. missed that feeling
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8A | ★★★ Enki | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||||
perfect moves. gotta commit
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8A | Minisex Roof Low | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
7C+ to 8A | |||||||||
8A 7C+ to 8A | ★★★ The right hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st Aug 2013 | |||||
1hr to figure out the moves. 1st try after warming up the next day. I am starting to like the cave!
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7C+/8A | |||||||||
7C+ 7C+/8A | ★★ Intermezzo left | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Aug 2014 | |||||
Probably 7c+ but still a lot harder than Intermezzo.
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7C+ to 8A | |||||||||
7C+ 7C+ to 8A | ★★★ The right hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Jul 2012 | |||||
I tried the start 3 weeks ago and had no chance to climb it. I was getting desperated because if I would have been able to climb the start there where many different boulders to try... but as I said I had no chance. this time the start felt much easier and i was able to send it on my second go.
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7C+ 7C+ to 8A | ★★★ The right hand of Darkness | Magic Wood | Sun 4th Sep 2005 | ||||||
7C+ 7C+ to 8A | ★★ From darkness to sunshine | Magic Wood | Oct 2021 | ||||||
7C+ 7C+ to 8A | ★★ From darkness to sunshine | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||||
7C+/8A | |||||||||
7C+ 7C+/8A | ★★ Intermezzo left | Magic Wood | Sun 12th May 2019 | ||||||
7C+ to 8A | |||||||||
7C+ 7C+ to 8A | ★★★ The right hand of Darkness (The right hand of darkness stand) | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | |||||
7C+ to 8A ~8A | ★★★ The right hand of Darkness - with Luke Seymour | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | |||||
Hard
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7C+ | |||||||||
7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo - with TechnikGranate | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Oct 2018 | |||||
7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jul 2015 | |||||
7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | Tue 16th Jun 2020 | ||||||
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7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Jun 2011 | |||||
really my style. so cool to climb. I had a good day (two 7c's and one 7c+), but for rythmo brachial there was no skin anymore.
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7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | |||||
7C+ | ★★★ Rythmo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
7C/C+ | |||||||||
7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (piranja) | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Sep 2016 | |||||
7C+ 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Sep 2014 | |||||
Gym moves. Competition style. Thanks to Antony Gullsten for the beta. Wouldn't have flashed it otherwise...
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7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Jul 2012 | |||||
sooooo happy to finally climb this one. tried it last year and had no chance... tried it this year and had no chance, but then I found the right beta =)
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7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | ||||||
7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Jun 2022 | ||||||
7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Aug 2013 | |||||
Beau mur d'arquées
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7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Mon 13th May 2019 | ||||||
7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Jul 2017 | ||||||
7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | ||||||
7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | |||||
Great dyno move
Hard |
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7C 7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha (Piranja) | Magic Wood | Fri 25th May 2018 | ||||||
7C/C+ | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||||
7C/C+ Hard | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||||
7C/C+ ~7C+ | ★★★ Piranha | Magic Wood | Tue 5th Dec 2023 | ||||||
7C | |||||||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Jul 2018 | |||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo - with Technikgranate, FlashKing | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | |||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo - with TechnikGranate | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Oct 2018 | |||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | |||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | Sat 17th Aug 2013 | ||||||
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7C | ★★ Minisex | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Aug 2013 | |||||
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7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jul 2012 | |||||
on my flash attempt I had the final hold already in my hand but than came down because I slightly tuched the crash pad at the start. nice little boulder =)
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7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | Wed 20th Jul 2016 | ||||||
7C | ★★ Minisex | Magic Wood | Fri 15th Jul 2016 | ||||||
7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||||
Pull on crimps
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7C | ★★ Minisex | Magic Wood | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | ||||||
Hard
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7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | ||||||
7C | ★★ Minisex | Magic Wood | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
Half a day to work the moves. Sent on first attempt on second day when fresh. STOKED.
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7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Aug 2015 | |||||
Great foot jam
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7C | ★★★ Intermezzo | Magic Wood | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||||
7C | ★★ Minisex | Magic Wood | Mon 7th Aug 2023 |