Ascents in Magic Wood having Beta

Wow! such a mental and condition war for me. Located on the backside of the darkness cave. Has very subtle movement using small, slopey edges and poor feet out a 45 degree overhang. This one is for you Courtney... thanks for supporting me and walking up to the boulder multiple times. Now I can move forward #FA #hard

The full boulder, starting at the start of left hand of darkness and going left into Remembrance of Things Past. Adds 8A/+ into 8B+. sustained and powerful the whole way. My hardest boulder yet #FA

second ascent

Such a good one!! Prime conditions in Magic Wood!

Wow so psyched to add this kingline! You basically do the hardest part of the original force tranquill and then instead of matching the crimp and going out right you do another big move straight up to a pocket from there you do a rather scary top out. It’s definitely harder than the original line but I like the style a lot so personally I would say it‘s not enough to push it up a full grade. It‘s the logical exit and climbs very well so I would love to see some repititions and hear their opinion 😉 Video online! https://youtu.be/Dr82TsVOEXk

FA

3rd Ascent. Fell off the last move probably 20 times from the start. Started to become a bit of a mental battle. Pulled through today and couldn't be more psyched. Feeling fit and motivated. This one feels lower end for the 8C grade, but I don't have enough experience with the grade to know for sure. Roofs aren't really my style and I'm happy to see myself progress within the realm.

Great finger strength test piece from DW

3rd ascent. Took 3 days of mental/physical warring. Psyched to do this majestic testpiece. #soft

Battle with the heat! Not the sickest of lines but climbs so well! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG1pXMfyLSM&t=3s

What a journey it has been to climb this boulder. Feels good to know that I got a bit stronger after first trying it 7 years ago... One of my all time dream lines! Was just so happy when I stuck the jump. Yesss!!

A perfect, pure, hard line. Sloping holds in a roof. One of my all time favorites. The first few holds were still wet, so I basically had to climb it with wet hands. Feeling unbelievably strong and focused right now. Ready for more.

Soft

Hard

Soft

At the first day I thought that I can send it pretty fast. But I injured my knee and tried to find a new sequence. I think for me it is the easiest 8C in Magic wood and it’s more 8B+ than 8C

I hate this boulder. Didn’t use the heel hooks

Nice moves on pinches

incroyable une presse en suisse qui n'est pas une douille !

Incredible boulder from the king

Really wanted to flash this one, I was nervous But I pulled it off, so psyched!! Power endurance and definitely very soft for 8b+ but it's easy to make mistakes..

wow! a dream come true! after falling twice on the last hard move just because of a simple foot slip, I managed to climb the whole line. I was just super relieved and super happy holding the final top hold and I still can't believe that I was able to climb this awesome historical line. It wasn't even my goal to try the whole line, but once I did the second part so easily and I knew that I climbed the first part quite fluently last year, I decided to try the whole boulder. And it turned out that it is possible =)

Just before the storm. Really nice to finish this thing off before leaving Magic Wood. Almost sent first day and thought it could be 8B, but 3 days of falling on the same move and it makes sense as 8B+. Strangely powerful climbing.

Wanted to climb this line for a long time. Started with a proper sit start one hold lower than the original start. Seemed like the most obvious start position to me, even though it adds a bit of difficulty. Despite the rain, it was a wonderful day in the woods. Fell off the end of "in search..." three times, now my shoulders are very tired.

Hard

This type of roof climbing is not easy for me. Psyched to feel strong on this problem. Really cool moves on some of the best incuts. Now for the low start and the other projects.

Hard

It's moments like these where I realize how happy I am to be living the life that I want. Take nothing for granted...

I am very glad that I managed to do it before the end of the trip! First 8B+

Two short session Best!!

Soft

Finally.. What a stunner problem. Dreamed about this boulder for years. So relieved to have done it now!

Dope power endurance boulder problem!

Soft

These Jugs are too big for 8C

Soft

je pense qu'il s'agit d'un 8b+ trav facile. si je devais donner une cote bloc je dirais 8B/A+ Soft

Yeahhhhh! I did it! Finally. It felt impossible to put all the moves together last year. Second session this year. Thanks to David, Felix and Robin for the support! One lifetime project off the list.

Soft. Sick line!!

8a+/8b

perhaps the last problem I wanted to try on this trip. turned out to be the first one I tried I didn't really like the start, eventhough it is really cool to find something like this on rock. second part then is just amazing.

For sure one of the best walls I`ve climbed! one day the real start will go!

Oooh yes! Feels so good when you execute perfectly... Thx Makita! You made it possible to hold this sloper in the heat!

Not the best line, but some good moves.

Soft

Best thing I've done here.

Not that far from perfection. Very last try of this mini trip. Sykd for The Understanding now!

Soft

Bam! Maximal power endurance line. Numb fingers at the end, but pure quality moves! Great! 3rd session.

I love this thing! 3 sessions. 2nd go on the last session. Thanks to Zoltan Komjati for spotting and screaming me up

actually only wanted to warm up for practice but then I got stuck on this boulder. Unfortunately I had to stop trying practice pretty soon... next time I'll put the pads in the right places!