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Routes in Südwand

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Showing all 42 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
4c Harmonie und Formerlebnis
1 4c 40m
2 4b 40m
3 4b 30m
4 4c 30m
Trad 140m, 4 Brüggler
Sport
5a Sorpresa Sport 50m, 2 Brüggler
5c+ s'Zigerträumli
1 5c 50m
2 5c+ 50m
3 5c 40m
4 5c+ 20m
5 5c 30m
Sport 190m, 5 Brüggler
5a Grüne Plattenwand
1 4a 40m
2 4b 35m
3 4c 45m
4 5a 30m
5 4c 40m
6 4b 25m
Sport 220m, 6 Brüggler
6a+ Nomis Sport 200m, 6 Brüggler
5c+ Meister Franz
1 5a 30m
2 5c+ 45m
3 5a 45m
4 5b 45m
5 5b 45m
6 5a 20m
7 5a 30m
Sport 260m, 7 Brüggler
{UIAA} 4+ Silvesterroute
1 3+ 45m
2 3 40m
3 3+ 40m
4 4+ 35m
5 4 40m
6 4 40m
Sport 240m, 6 Brüggler
5a Föhrenweg Sport 200m, 6 Brüggler
4b Dornröschen Sport 100m, 4 Brüggler
6c+ Föhrenweg Direkteinstieg Sport 25m Brüggler
5a Weihnachtsroute Sport 200m, 6 Brüggler
5c+ - 6b Tante Ju
1 5c+ - 6b
2 5a
3 5a
4 5b
5 5c

Route starts 5m left from the big corner (Name is written on the rock and first bolt plate). First pitch has two versions. To the left "Risseinstieg", 5c+: slightly traversing left from the start for 2 bolts, then follow the big crag (and the visible bolts). Or you start straight up, then you have a 6b. After that you go around the corner to the left and follow the corner on the outer side for the next 2 pitches. The last two pitches go more or less straigt up. 10 Runners are sufficient, you might feel better adding a few slings here and there.

Sport 200m, 5, 10 Brüggler
4c Knorrli
1 4c
2 4b
3 4b
4 4c

50m rope required, the routes name and leaving direction is marked at every anchor.

FA: Marcel Dettling & Josef Dettling, 1996

Sport 100m, 4 Brüggler
6b Grosse Verschneidung

FA: Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

Set: Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

Sport 220m, 7 Brüggler
4a Rummelflucht Sport 100m, 3 Brüggler
6c Zwergenweg Sport 75m, 3 Brüggler
5b Unterländer Plattentraum Sport 100m, 3 Brüggler
6c Via Alexandra Sport 75m, 3 Brüggler
4c Winterplättli
1 4c
2 4c
3 4c

Very good winter-climb. Meanwhile well bolted - no additional material needed.

Sport 100m, 3 Brüggler
6c+ Via Dana
1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6b
7 6c+
8 5c
Sport 250m, 8 Brüggler
5c+ Glückspilz easy
1 5b
2 5b
3 5c+
4 5c+
5 5b
6 5c
7 5b

Route is marked at the start. The first pitch is atypical trough a chimney and small roof. The rest is typical Brüggler slab. The second ptich is long. - Bring at least 12 quickdraws. - A 50m single rope is just enough for the second pitch. - There is some opportunity to place mid-sized cams (BD size 0.4-1) or nuts to calm the nerves.

Walk off to the left (towards the summit cross) and follow a blue-white marked trail back down to the base of the cliff.

Set: Christof Klingler, Andrea Gaffuri, Ruedi Jenny & Felix Ortlieb, 2018

Sport 200m, 7 Brüggler
6a Donauwelle Sport 100m, 4 Brüggler
5a Südwestwand Sport Brüggler
5c+ Via Sibylle Sport 50m, 2 Brüggler
6b Via Dana Ausstiegsvariante
1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6b
7 6b
8 6a
Sport 250m, 8 Brüggler
5c Arosaweg Sport 100m, 4 Brüggler
6a+ Spreizrinne Sport 100m, 4 Brüggler
5c Blüemliweg

Renovated in 2007. 7 pitches of slab chains in total and well secured. One should take min. 12 quickdraws. Last pitch exit variant possible via 6a+.

Sport 50m, 7 Brüggler
6a Sonntagsweg
1 5b
2 4c
3 6a
4 5a
5 5c+
6 3c
7 6a

Route starts approx. 50 right of the backpack depot. Route name is written at the base, the line is marked in orange (easy to follow). The third pitch traverses to the left in the upper part, the fourth goes first further left and then quite straight up. 12 Runners are usually enough.

Sport 150m, 7, 12 Brüggler
6b Via Priska
1 5a 20m
2 5c 40m
3 5c+ 40m
4 6b 40m
5 5c+ 40m
6 6a 30m
7 5a 30m
8 6b 20m
Sport 260m, 8 Brüggler
6a Flugroute
1 5a
2 5c
3 5b
4 5c+
5 5c
6 6a
7 5c

Abwechslungsreich mit schönem Quergang. Weiterweg über 'Sonntagsweg' oder 'Kleine Verschneidung' möglich

Sport 130m Brüggler
6b Freitag der Dreizehnte Sport 30m Brüggler
6b Feuerwasser
1 5a
2 5c+
3 6a+
4 5c
5 5c+
6 6b
7 6a+
Sport 250m, 7 Brüggler
6c Heirassa Sport 30m Brüggler
6b Akro Flip Sport 50m, 2 Brüggler
5a Kleine Verschneidung Sport 250m, 9 Brüggler
6b Weg des Wassers
1 4
2 5c
3 6a
4 6b
5 5c
6 5b
7 6b
Sport 30m, 7 Brüggler
6a+ Glück im Unglück Sport 100m, 5 Brüggler
6a+ Die Namenlose
1 6a 25m
2 5c 45m
3 6a+ 30m
4 5c 40m
5 5c 35m
6 4b 20m
7 5a 40m

Start at two bolts with rings, Name is on steel plate. The last three pitches are shared with 'Direkte Plattenwand'. In second pitch 'Direkte Plattenwand' crosses from right to left. Friend 2 can be useful in pitch 4, otherwise 12 quickdraws and some slings to combine bolts on belay stand are sufficient.

Sport 240m, 7, 12 Brüggler
5c Direkte Plattenwand
1 4c
2 4c
3 5a
4 5a
5 5b
6 5c
7 4b
8 5a
Sport 250m, 8 Brüggler
5b Highway
1 5a 25m
2 5a 25m
3 5b 35m
4 5a 25m
5 5a 25m
6 5a 30m
7 5a 50m
Sport 220m, 7, 13 Brüggler
Aid
A1 Gipfelturm Aid 30m Brüggler

Showing all 42 routes.

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