Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 19th May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin No Limits | |||||||
6a+ | No Honey Licking - with Anika, Jakob, Sven | ||||||
Beim ablassen vom Kunz noch geklettert
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Vingelz | |||||||
5c | 1:41 | 15m | |||||
Nur bis erster Stand
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Le Paradis Face Sud | |||||||
4c | ★★ Arête du Faucon | 130m | |||||
Teilweise etwas "speckig". Ansonsten schöne, einfache Kletterei in gutem Fels
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Sun 12th May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5b+ | ★★★ Clean — 3 attempts | 30m | |||||
It was Reve d'Orgon but grading is not complete
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Thu 9th May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Turtel - with Roman Thöni | 20m | |||||
Sturztraining
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5b | ★★ Grappa - with Roman Thöni | ★★ Very Good | |||||
grosse Henkel unten, gegen oben feinere Griffe.
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6b | ★★ Nouvelle Perle - with Roman Thöni | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
leider falsche Beta erwischt und Schl"usselzug nicht sofort geschafft.
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Grandval Pic de Corcelles | |||||||
6b | ★ Si je m'abuse sexuellement | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unten durch die technische Crux gekämpft und dann den #runout zum Umlenker links umgangen. Für mich zählts trotzdem .
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6a | ★★ Le Gueux lagopède | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tolle, homogene Wandkletterei!
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5c | ★ Höhle | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Für 5c harte plattige Balance-Cruxes und ein bisschen staubig. Das "gut" gibts nur wegen dem coolen Ambiente mit der Höhle. #hard
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Gorges de Court Roche des Nants | |||||||
6b | ★★ Directe des Nants | 50m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Final 6b pitch is really nice.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Gorges de Court Petit Capucin | |||||||
6a | ★★ Ultrasons | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Absolut geniale Linie mit homogener Henkelkletterei!
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6b | ★★ La balade du petit Jules | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Coole technische Wandkletterei mit genial rauen Tropflöchern. Leider mit unnötigem Sturz nach der Crux. Heute zu heiss und zu wenig fit für 2. Versuch.
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5a ~5c | ★★ Lofofara | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Abwechslungsreich; oben ein bisschen #scary Kletterei an ziemlich hohlen Schuppen.
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Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Dactylogramme gris - with sac | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit more sustained than than the 6a+es further left.
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6a+ | ★★ Rêve d'Orgon - with sac | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short and rather thin crux sequence above the middle chains.
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6a+ | ★★★ Sympa avec des coinceurs - with sac | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice and varied technical climbing.
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5c+ ~5c | Gear on ★★ Magic mushroom - with sac | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One move wonder to get to the chains.
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Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Grandval Pic de Crèmines | |||||||
6b | ★★ Sitzpolster - with Denise | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Immer wieder schön
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Nouvelle Perle - with L | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice technical/thin crux on the slab.
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6c ~6b | ★ Trous secs - with L | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
One dynamic move - probably shared with "Styx"?!?
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Le Paradis Face Sud | |||||||
6b | ★★ L'lf - with Anna Maria | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing 6b pitch!
|
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Dalle du 8 ème Jour | |||||||
5a | Lundi | 25m | Average | ||||
schönes Plättchen, aber verwachsen und lose Steine
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Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin La Grand Lame | |||||||
7c | ★★ Liechtblitz — 2 attempts - with BK | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice! ☀️
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6a | Redpoint | 12m | |||||
Kein Stand. Route rechts davon fertig klettern.
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6a | ★ La méthode dülfer | 12m | |||||
Kein redundanter Stand.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Magic mushroom - with Sylvie | 25m | Average | ||||
Crazy bolt spacing. The name of the route says it all...
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5b+ | ★★★ Clean - with Sylvie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic route!
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Gorges de Court Petit Capucin | |||||||
5b | Rikiki | 12m | Crap | ||||
A n'envisager que si l'on est dans le niveau. Retour au sol possible. Relais sur mono point.
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5c | Petit dièdre | 15m | Crap | ||||
Je n'ai pas du tout aimé l'équipement de la voie. Sécurisation avec des Friends.
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
La Neuveville Le Rêche Tout Moetsch | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Mâle de Mère - with Markus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard Slap, easier Roof
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6b+ Hard | ★★ Schaller de Rien - with Markus | 25m | Average | ||||
Polished, from last Bolt to anchor very far, or no anchor?
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5b | ★ Expo 02 - with S | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm-up.
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6b Hard | ★★ Sonnengärtner - with S | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very thin crux at 2nd bolt. It also took me quite a while to figure out what to do at the 4th bolt and while my partner somehow just cruised through this section, it felt rather difficult even on second go. Crux is shorter but may be harder than "L'anné prochaine"?
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6a+ Hard | ★ Le Petit solo - with S | 20m | Average | ||||
Very torn on this one. May be a 6b? May also be that I was just afraid of decking from whichever bolt was the last one below me. The climbing is as nice as on any other route in the crag, but the bolts are quite spaced with potential of ground fall, possibly even at the 4th (and final!) bolt.
Successfully used a #kong_panic twice, because the climbing seemed to get a bit harder right before the bolt. |
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6b+ | ★★★ L'Année prochaine - with S | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat of a route that's still as beautiful as the first time. Crux probably clipping 7th(?) bolt.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Plagne Face de Rondchâtel | |||||||
5c+ |
Milkyway
- with
Anika
1
5b+
20
2
5b
20
3
5c+
20
| 60m | Average | ||||
Irgendwie zu "Klassisch": viel Kamin und gestemme, Vegetation und nicht so toller Fels. Es hält schon aber sieht manchmal gruselig brüchig aus.
|
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6a |
★★ Zodiac P3
- with
Anika
3
6a
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Die Milkyway war uns zu Klassich so haben wir weiter oben in die Zodiac gewechselt.
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Rêve d'Orgon — 2 attempts - with Marco Nauer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 schwierige Moves in der Crux...ziemlich hart für 6a+. Im 2. Versuch hats nun mit dem Rotpunkt geklappt.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Sympa avec des coinceurs - with Marco Nauer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Immer wieder ein Genuss.
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6b+ | ★★★ L'Année prochaine - with Marco Nauer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
...und wieder mit einem Sturz in der technisch anspruchsvollen Crux. Beim nächsten Mal wirds klappen.
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6b+ | ★★★ L'Année prochaine — 2 attempts - with P. S | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Leider zweimal in der crux hängen geblieben
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Raimeux Grande arête | |||||||
4b | ★★★ Grande arête | 4 | |||||
Family Trip (4)
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Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Vingelz | |||||||
7b | Alter schützt vor Torheit nicht - with david | 15m | Average | ||||
Un pas trop bloc pour moi😬
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Plagne Tiramisu | |||||||
7a | ★ Losing my Religion - with david | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
La fin est dur a lire, le 7a est là 🙃
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6b | ★★ Autorisation de délirer - with david | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Un passage assez soutenu puis une belle grimpe
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Plagne Blocs des Chamols | |||||||
5a | Forever Young - with david | Don't Bother | |||||
Pas de relais…
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6a+ | ★ Caramel Mou - with david | ★ Good | |||||
Deux passages très athlétique
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Grandval Pic de Corcelles | |||||||
5b | ★★ Requiem - with david | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Belle voie
|
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5c | PiR^2 - with david | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Vraiement très très dur pour une 5c
|
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7a+ | ★ Far Tortuga - with david | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Un movement de traversé depuis le relais de la 6a qui est très intense puis la suite est jolie mais physique😅
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Col de Pierre Pertuis Pierre Pertuis | |||||||
6a+ | Acieed! - with david | 10m | Don't Bother | ||||
De la merde
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Plagne Blocs des Chamols | |||||||
5c | ★★ Ouragan | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great technical 5c. Super duper short though. Good warm up.
|
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Raimeux Arête spéciale | |||||||
6b+ |
★ Grande Tête
1
5a
Hard to find, very few protection, easy. Find the beginning of the route by finding the bolted relay at the end of the arrete.
2
6a+
3
6b+
| ★ Good | |||||
We didn't do the 7a pitch but did a traversee to the right (4+) then finished with a 5c slab.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Le Schilt Grande Cheminée | |||||||
6b Hard | Django | 30m | Crap | ||||
Either artificial holds, or brittle
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Plagne Blocs des Chamols | |||||||
5b | ★ Yoyo | ★ Good | |||||
Die Route hat 1 Hacken. Als Stand verwendet man den Baum.
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Dalle du 8 ème Jour | |||||||
6b ~6b | Mardi - with Loïs Julie | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Côté 6b dans le topo Jura plaisir. Cette cotation me semble réaliste.
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Grande dalle | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ La Boh! | 65m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Prévoir une sangle pour le premier point sur lunule
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Bonnes Fontaines Secret Land | |||||||
5c |
★★★ La Nostalgique
1
2
3
4
5
| 100m | |||||
kind of pollished
|
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Grandval Pic de Grandval | |||||||
5c+ |
★★ La Cigale
- with
rk
1
5b
2
5a
3
5c+
4
4c+
5
5a
6
4a
| 160m | |||||
Super Route. 5c+ pitch is a bit runout at the top 1-2 cams useful (size 0.75-1).
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Bonnes Fontaines Secret Land | |||||||
6c | ★★ L'Amanite | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
the crux is a rather reachy move starting from two crimps
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Tue 21st Feb 2023 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Bonnes Fontaines Secret Land | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Eclair de lune | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Schöne, abwechslungsreiche Kletterei.
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6a | ★ Secret Land | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Leider ziemlich abgespeckter Riss in der Crux. Weil der Fuss jederzeit wegrutschen könnte eher schwieriger als 6a. Oben geht die Originallinie rechts und beinhaltet coole steile Kletterei an Henkeln. Die linke 2. Seillänge ist auch schön. Empfehlenswerterer Einstieg aber über Gysmo oder Lézard.
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Sun 25th Dec 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Prés de Mijoux | |||||||
6a | IDO | 15m | |||||
Schönes Wandergebiet. Die Routen waren aber leider alle nass. Nur die zwei gekletterten Routen waren knapp kletterbar:-)
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Les Petits Mönsterli | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Einzelstelle
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6b | ★★ Nouvelle Perle | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Leider mit Hänger in Plattencrux wegen eiskalter Finger
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6a | ★ Hammer | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sehr leicht für 6a
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Tue 1st Nov 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Cabane | |||||||
5c | ★★ Bottillon de lotus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Schöner griffiger Fels
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6a+ | La mule | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Beim letzten Haken wohl zu weit nach rechts in den Kamin drängen lassen und daher nur mit Mühe geschafft.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Raimeux Arête spéciale | |||||||
5b+ |
★★★ Arête spéciale
1
4b
2
5a+
3
5b
4
5b+
5
3b
6
5b+
lead by
Andi
7
5b+
lead by
Andi
| 140m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Superschöne erste längere Mehrseillänge
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin La Grand Lame | |||||||
6b | ★★ Urticaria - with Flo, Guido Zgraggen, yanickuru | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unten schwere Züge, oben wirds leichter.
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Grandval Pic de Grandval | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ La Cigale | 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
zu dritt mit S+L
|
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Rêve d'Orgon - with Jan Berger | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dieses Mal nur bis zum 1. Stand (5b+)
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5b | ★★ Grappa - with Jan Berger | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Henkelparade
|
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5c+ | ★★ Turtel - with Jan Berger | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Als letzte Route für heute ziemlich anstrengend.
|
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6b | ★★ Bus 2 - with Jan Berger | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ging sehr gut für 6b. Die Route ist für mich auch einiges leichter als Sonnengärtner direkt daneben.
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Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Bonnes Fontaines Secret Land | |||||||
6c | ★★ L'Amanite | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Ach..ich wollte meine erste 6c Onsight klettern. Leider habe ich die Crux-Stelle nicht auf Anhieb verstanden und es ist schon ziemlich glitschig.
|
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6a | ★★ Gysmoglouglou | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hohe Route mit super Henkelgriffen oben in der steilen Passage.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Zoubida | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Grosser Riss
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Le sentier | |||||||
5b | ★★ Sous les roches - with Timo JO Bachtel | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Felskletterausbildung JO Bachtel
|
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Mon 30th May 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
La Neuveville Le Rêche Tout Moetsch | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ S'corps But | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard to onsight for me, didn’t know where to exactly go in the roof… second go was “easy” cool one
|
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Cortébert Belle étoile | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Arcturus | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Kurz und pumpy
|
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6a+ | ★★ Agena | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Schöne, längere Linie; in der steilen Passage mit kurzem Hänger.
|
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Cortébert Pfeiler | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Javel | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Unten ein bisschen brüchig/grasig; oben schön.
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Raimeux Grande arête | |||||||
4b | ★★★ Grande arête | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure if we missed some of the "harder" pitches at the beginning. After the slabs we just ended up scrambling through easier (II-III) terrain until we stood in front of the "Dièdre".
All in all, the "Grande arête" is a worthwile undertaking if you want to do some easy climbing/scrambling and quite a bit of walking. |
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Grande dalle | |||||||
5a | La Brosse | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
Slightly longer than 30m, about 34m -- you can rap with a 60m rope and climb down the gully secured with a cable.
|
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5a |
★★ Les Benevoles
1
5a
35m
2
5a
30m
| 65m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route here, some cool moves.
|
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5b |
★★ La Ramassoire
1
5a
30m
2
5a
28m
3
5b
7m
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The 5a pitches on this are harder than the ones on "Les Benevoles".
|
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Tue 12th Apr 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Magic mushroom - with Nicky, Anderl, Anika | 25m | |||||
Zu klein
|
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Magic mushroom - with Nicky, Jarno, Jakob, Anika | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Etwas leichter als der große Bruder, nette Headwall!
|
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5c+ | ★★ Toit va bien - with Nicky, Jarno, Jakob, Anika | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Der Name ist Programm, ich durfte mich am Dach trotzdem furchtbar anstellen . Oben unklare Linie.
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Clean - with Nicky, Jarno, Jakob, Anika | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Die Definition von Plaisir
|
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Le sentier | |||||||
6c+ | Les vernes - with Matthias, Alin | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Hmm, wie bei allen Routen in dem Sektor, die Schwierigkeit über den Bauch. Hier ist leider etwas unklar, was der Bolter hier erreichen wollte. Die direkte Linie seh ich unmöglich in dem Grad. Hab dann etwas gefunden, bei dem man mit links ein paar Griffe dazu nimmt, die man sonst in der 6c links daneben mit rechts nimmt. Wenn die andere Linie daneben nicht wäre würde das sicher auch noch gut aufgehen, so fühlt man sich aber eben schon mehr in der anderen Linie, und nimmt gescheiter grad komplett diese ;-). Falls man dann doch noch irgendwie auf Zwang versucht sich weiter rechts zu halten, muss man auf recht polierten Tritten, aufstehen, wo es mich noch zwei mal rausgehauen hat. Aufgrund des Zeitmangels und den müden Kids dann auch kein weiterer Versuch.
|
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Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Le sentier | |||||||
5a | ★ Le sentier - with Matthias, Alin | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Zustieg.
|
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6a | ★★ La marchande - with Matthias, Alin | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Leichter Zustieg auf Platte und dann durch einen Riss, recht hart für den Grad, vermutlich hab ich nicht die beste Beta gefunden. Diese Route habe ich für zwei junge Frauen eingehängt, die etwas Angst hatten oben eine Exe einzuhängen. Dabei ist dann leider noch eine eurer Exen an meinem Gurt hängen geblieben und mir erst aufgefallen als ihr schon weg wart. Falls ihr das hier seht, meldet euch doch gern bei mir.
|
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6c | ★★ Longchamps - with Matthias, Alin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ähnlich wie die 6b nebendran, eine technische Sequenz nach einfacher Platte und oben dann etwas kräftiger an Leisten über das Bäuchlein.
|
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6b | ★★ Le cret - with Matthias, Alin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unten sehr leichte Platte, dann einmal etwas technisch tricky, über den Bauch noch etwas kräftig.
|
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Orvin Nouvelle nuance | |||||||
7b | ★★ Chauffez la gomme | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Chauffez la gomme
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7a+ | ★★ Hammersack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool but short sequence, liked it more than the 7b next to it.
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Sat 12th Mar 2022 - Berner Jura | |||||||
Vingelz | |||||||
6a | Comics 2 | 15m | Average | ||||
Staubig
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